影响竹浆纤维针织物起毛起球性的因素

为深入分析竹浆纤维针织物起毛起球性的影响因素,根据7种竹浆纤维纬平针针织物的基本结构参数和起毛起球性的测试结果,应用灰色关联分析法对织物基本参数与起毛起球性之间的关系进行了定性和定量分析.结果显示:对起毛起球性的影响程度依次为织物的面密度、纵密、厚度、纱线线密度、氨纶含量、织物横密和竹浆纤维含量;含氨纶纯竹浆纤维针织物...     

黄麻混织针织物的设计与开发

本研究针对黄麻纱线粗硬、毛羽较多,弹性低等特点,对纱线毛羽、细度及强度进行测试并选择适合的棉及涤纶纱线进行混合。将黄麻与棉及涤纶纱线经过合股上蜡处理后,在针织横机上设计并编织罗纹、移圈、圆筒等不同组织和结构的黄麻混织织物及产品。通过对黄麻混织织物的耐磨性、透气性、抗起毛起球等性能进行测试与分析,结果表明麻涤1罗纹织物耐磨性、耐起毛起球性最好,而麻棉4为单面圆筒织物线圈密度最小,透气性能最优;麻棉2由于具有移圈及凹凸效果,透气性能次之,耐磨性稍差。所织织物适合制作具有田园风格的家居类装饰物,从而开发黄麻纤维更广泛的应用领域。     

羊毛畦编针织物尺寸特性分析

通过实验的方法,研究了横机编织的罗纹、半畦编和畦编羊毛针织物的尺寸特性,对3种织物的线圈长度、纵横向水洗收缩率、纵密及横密等各尺寸特性进行了分析与比较,实验得出,由于集圈线圈的存在,半畦编和畦编针织物的尺寸特性显著不同于罗纹针织物.通过建立尺寸变化率公式,计算出畦编织物与罗纹织物尺寸参数间的关系,可用于工厂实际生产设计时参考.     

The effect of different knitted fabrics’ structures on the moisture transport properties

In this study, fabrics with different plain, tuck and float stitch combinations in three different tightness levels as tight, medium and loose are produced from combed ring spun cotton yarn. It is aimed at determining the effect of fabric structure on liquid absorption, transport and permeability properties, which are important factors in the people’s perception of wear comfort. The air permeability, wicking ability and moisture management measurements of the produced fabrics are made. It is determined that the increase in the fabric tightness decreases the air permeability and increases the wicking ability especially in 60?min measurements. The fabric tightness has also different effects on different knitting types in terms of moisture management properties. It is observed that structures with float stitches show high wicking ability and moisture management properties in terms of plain, tuck and float stitches combinations.     

组织结构对针织物电磁屏蔽效能的影响

设计了几种代表性织物组织结构的不锈钢纤维混纺针织物,研究了织物组织结构对针织物电磁屏蔽效能的影响。织物组织结构选择充满系数较高的双罗纹组织、打鸡双面组织、添纱衬垫组织、衬纬组织和绕经组织,以降低织物厚度、密度、孔隙等因素对织物电磁屏蔽效能的影响。对所有织物进行了电磁屏蔽效能测试,结果显示:双罗纹织物、双面织物、添纱衬垫织物、衬纬织物的电磁屏蔽效能都很不理想,且远远低于含不锈钢纤维机织平纹布,但是绕经织物的电磁屏蔽效能要比其他组织的针织物的屏蔽效能高得多,基本能达到国标上对屏蔽服的屏蔽效能要求。绕经织物与其他几种针织物最大的不同就是在纵向多了一些连续的含不锈钢纤维的混纺纱。说明针织物组织结构是影响电磁屏蔽效能的关键因素,可通过在织物纵横向形成纵横交错的导通的金属网栅的方式来改善不锈钢纤维混纺针织物的屏蔽效能。     

Prototyping and analyzing physical properties of Weft knitted spacer fabrics as a substitute for wound dressings

In this research, the required physical properties of weft knitted spacer fabrics, as an alternative for wound dressings have been investigated. For this purpose, weft knitted spacer fabrics with five different fabric structures have been produced on the electronic flat knitting machine. Moreover, in order to compare the properties of the produced fabrics with available wound dressings in the market, two kinds of wound dressing have been prepared from the market. Then, the physical properties of the spacer fabrics and the wound dressings such as air permeability, water vapor permeability, thermal conductivity, compressibility and absorbency have been measured and compared. The results show that in weft knitted spacer fabrics with the same fabric structure of the outer layer and different inclination angle (the angle formed between the outer layer and the spacer yarn), by decreasing the inclination angle, the fabric air permeability, water vapor permeability and absorbency decrease and the thermal conductivity and compressibility increase. Moreover, the use of tuck stitches in the outer layer of the spacer fabric leads to an increase of air permeability, water vapor permeability, absorbency and thermal conductivity and decrease of compressibility. The wound dressings also exhibit less air permeability and compressibility than weft knitted spacer fabrics. On the other hand, they possess higher water vapor permeability and absorbency. According to the results, among the examined weft knitted spacer fabrics in this research, the fabric with the tuck stitches in the outer layer is specified as the most appropriate alternative for wound dressing, in case of wounds with low exudates.     

在细针距单面机上生产粗犷面料

文章详细介绍了在高机号单面机上设计开发粗犷的凹凸“鱼鳞”布的编织工艺，提供了在现有设备上生产新型针织面料的途径。     

纤维组分与针织组织对针织物悬垂性的影响

悬垂性对针织物的外观及内在性能都有重要影响,而不同纤维组分纱线和不同组织的针织物悬垂性能也有很大区别。选用相同支数的纯羊毛纱、纯腈纶纱、羊毛/腈纶70/30纱3种典型的针织纱和纬平针组织、1+1罗纹组织、2+2罗纹组织3种常规的针织组织,利用正交试验法分析纤维组分与针织组织对针织物悬垂性能的影响。研究结果表明:混纺比例不同的纱线品种对针织物的悬垂性有一定影响,针织组织对针织物悬垂性的影响特别显著,因此在设计针织服装时应该有针对性地选用不同组分的针织纱和针织组织,以实现理想效果。     

Air permeability and bursting strength of weft-knitted fabrics from glass yarn. Part II: knit architecture effect

In this study; the effects of loop, skip, and tuck stitch types, and weft-inlay yarn, on air permeability and bursting strength of weft-knitted fabrics from glass yarn were revealed. Due to clockwise rotation of wales and their arrangement being one on top of the other, besides the dramatic shortening of fabrics after their removal from the machine; fabrics with tuck stitches exhibited the highest stitch density, fiber content, and the shortest loop length. This caused the lowest air permeability and the highest bursting strength. Contrary to expectations, weft-inlay yarn did not contribute to bursting strength as much as tuck stitch did. An overall negative correlation between air permeability and bursting strength was disrupted by structures with tuck stitches. While tuck stitches from cotton yarn increased air permeability and decreased bursting strength in previous studies; this study indicated that tuck stitches from glass yarn decreased air permeability and increased bursting strength.     

现代分析测试技术在印染行业的应用(十六)——织物起毛起球的成因、测试方法及改善途径

从纤维性能和纱线结构、织物的组织结构等方面分析不同织物起毛起球的原因,系统介绍了有关织物起毛起球的测试方法（如马丁代尔法,箱式法,随机乱翻法,圆轨迹法）及其适用范围,并就如何改善织物起毛起球性能提出建议。     

仪纶~(TM)纬平针织物的抗起毛起球性能

本文分别选用环锭纺、赛络纺、赛络紧密纺纺纱工艺,制备了同等纱支的仪纶~(TM)纯纺、仪纶~(TM)/棉(65/35)混纺针织纱线及其纬平针织物,对比测试了纱线性能及其织物抗起毛起球性能。实验结果显示:不同纺纱工艺的仪纶~(TM)针织纱线总体性能相似,赛络紧密纺纱线纱体结构更均匀;赛络纺织物的抗起毛起球性较环锭纺织物高0.5级,赛络紧密纺织物的抗起毛起球性明显好于环锭纺织物;混纺织物的抗起毛起球等级和起球粒数均有所改善。     

Investigation into the curling behavior of single jersey weft-knitted fabrics and its prediction using neural network model

This research investigates the effect of fiber, yarn, and fabric parameters on curling phenomenon of single jersey weft-knitted fabrics which is interpreted to have curling surface in both course and wale direction. Taguchi’s experimental design is used to estimate the optimum process conditions and to examine the individual effects of all controllable factors on curling one by one. The controllable factors are blending ratio of polyester to cotton fiber, yarn twist and count, fabric structure, knit density, and relaxation time. Results show that fabric structure and knit density have the most dominant effect on the fabric curling. The optimum conditions of minimum curling values were also determined. Finally, the curling surface in course and wale direction as a two features of curling phenomenon was predicted using artificial neural network which selects scale conjugate gradient learning algorithm based on process parameters of single jersey weft-knitted fabrics. Our findings confirm the good capability of artificial neural network algorithm to predict these features.     

粗机号线圈模数值的研究

主要研究了采用75%腈纶/25%羊毛混纺纱线编织的纬平针组织针织物和1+1罗纹组织针织物的线圈模数值。首先根据纬平针织物和1+1罗纹针织物的编织工艺进行编织,然后对织物进行拆除,测已知线圈个数的纱线总长度。最后根据公式计算出2种不同组织织物的线圈模数。实验结果表明:腈纶/羊毛纬平组织的模数值可初步标注为19.5,腈纶/羊毛1+1罗纹组织的模数值可初步标注为20.5,这对于控制纱线和坯布的张力波动,提高线圈长度均匀性,改善织物性能具有一定参考价值。     

Ultraviolet protection of weft-knitted fabrics

Increased incidence of skin cancers worldwide has expedited the development and research of ultraviolet (UV)-protective clothing. Clothing acting as a ‘second skin’ for human beings provides a more durable protection against harmful UV radiation than sunscreen creams. The market value of UV-protective clothing is worth considering. This paper will provide important information to textile designers, manufacturers, and consumers about the production and selection of UV-protective knitwear. Although various factors that affect UV protection of fabrics have been studied by researchers, most of them focused on woven fabrics and chemical approaches for improving UV protection. Knitwear in the form of daily wear is an indispensable form of clothing in summer but there has been limited research concerning the UV-protective properties of weft-knitted fabrics to date, in particular the influence of fabric construction on UV protection factor (UPF) and fabric structural properties. This issue of Textile Progress reviews the major factors that affect UV protection by fabrics, including fibre types, yarn characteristics, fabric construction, colouration, chemical additives, wetness (rather than just the moisture absorbed into the fibres), the stretching that may occur in clothing, and the effects of laundering. Methods for evaluating the UV-protective ability of fabrics are also addressed. There is also an attempt to fill a research gap by investigating the influence of different knitted structures on a fabric's UPF, through incorporation of the three major stitch types in weft-knitted fabric constructions, namely the knit, tuck, and miss stitches.     

聚乳酸玉米纤维针织物结构设计与生产实践

文章依据聚乳酸玉米纤维的性能分析,设计开发了纬编平针添纱组织、纬编单面集圈组织、纬编空气层组织、纬编双面集圈组织、经编纬面添纱组织等针织产品,提出了聚乳酸玉米纤维针织产品生产中易出现的问题及解决办法,为聚乳酸玉米纤维针织产品的研究开发生产提供参考。     

玻璃纤维纬平针织物尺寸特性研究

通过实验的方法,对不同紧密系数的玻璃纤维针织物的尺寸特性进行了研究,实验表明,玻璃纤维纬平针织物的线圈长度主要由弯纱深度决定;织物的横密与紧密系数呈线性相关,玻璃纤维针织物的线圈形态系数随织物的紧密系数增加而显著减小,同时,玻璃纤维针织物的厚度仅与纱线的线密度线性相关,与织物的弯纱深度关系不显著。     

Enzymatic treatment of wool fabrics - opportunity of the improvement on some physical and chemical properties of the fabrics

The enzymatic treatment of textiles significantly improves some of their physicochemical properties as well as increases their aesthetic values and comfort of use. Enzymes are used in order to develop environmentally friendly processes by reducing the concentration of chemical agents, water and energy consumption. In the present study, an attempt was made to treat the wool fabric with different concentrations (1, 3, and 5 g/L) of protease enzyme and observed the effects on physical and chemical properties including softness, absorbency, pilling resistance, weight loss, tensile strength loss, water retention, felting shrinkage, alkali solubility and urea-bisulphite solubility of wool fabric. The results of pretreated and enzyme-treated samples are compared to those obtained for untreated wool fabric. Enzyme-treated wool fabrics showed improvement in softness, absorbency, pilling resistance and felting shrinkage and a slight increase in weight loss, tensile strength loss, alkali solubility and urea-bisulphite solubility, and decrease in water retention of the fabric.     

An elliptical model for lockstitch 301 seam to estimate thread consumption

A geometrical model for lockstitch seam 301 has been proposed based on elliptical profile to estimate the thread consumption. The realistic elliptical shape of a lockstitch 301 seam has been confirmed by observing cut section along seam line. In order to validate a model across the different fabric types, varieties of fabrics from woven shirting, woven jeans, knitted single jersey to nonwoven interlining fabric have been considered. The different number of plies (2, 3 and 4) of given fabrics have been stitched at different levels of stitch densities (3, 4 and 5 stitches per cm) to observe effects in prediction of these parameters. It is found that the error % is increasing with increase in stitch density and number of ply. The proposed elliptical model have been compared with other recent rectangular profile based models, it is found that the propose model is more accurate and generalised with less error %, as compared to other models across the different fabric types. Also there is a strong correlation obtained between practical (actual) thread consumption and predicted from model.     

Thermophysiological comfort properties of selected knitted fabrics and design of T-shirts

Thermal comfort is one of the most important components of comfort which shows physiological, psychological, and physical harmony between human body and environment. The heat and moisture transfer capacity of fabric from skin to environment affects the thermal comfort of garments. The transfer capacity depends on the characteristic features of raw materials and fabric structural properties. In this study, it is aimed to determine the advantages of knitted fabric types, taking into account the environmental condition and activity level by measuring the thermal comfort properties such as air permeability, wicking, moisture management, thermal and water vapor resistances. Two knitted structures composed of tuck and float combinations and six raw materials were chosen for the fabrics produced. According to the measurement results, the polyester and cotton/Coolmax fabrics with float stitches have had good liquid moisture transport properties. Besides, high air permeability and low water vapor resistance have been obtained in viscose and Tencel LF fabrics with tuck stitches. On the basis of the results obtained in this investigation, and taking into consideration thermal behavior of human body, four women’s and five men’s T-shirts are designed. These T-shirt designs may be helpful for further approaches on the optimization of thermal comfort for sports activities in hot environment.     

Relationship between bursting strength and ultraviolet protection property of 100% cotton-knitted fabrics

In this study, the effect of bursting strength of knitted fabrics in relation to ultraviolet protection was studied. Different knitting structures were investigated, which included single jerseys such as plain, pineapple, lacoste and other combinations of different knitting stitches of knit, tuck and miss as well as double-jersey fabrics of half Milano, full Milano, half cardigan, full cardigan, 1 × 1 rib and interlock. Experimental results show that when comparing different structures, the change in bursting strength with ultraviolet protection factor was found to be significant.