生物活性美容多肽的研究进展

功能性化妆品市场日益增大,其中的功能性成分生物活性美容多肽,以其安全、高生物活性、易吸收等优势,扮演着越来越重要的角色,对化妆品功能提高具有重要意义。文章概述了几种在化妆品中常见的美容多肽。     

生物活性多糖在化妆品中的应用

综述了生物活性多糖的护肤性能，包括延缓衰老、血管美容、抗粉刺、修复皮肤组织、美白和保湿作用。这与多糖的抗凝血、抗氧化、促进细胞增生和抑菌等生物学功能和吸水性的理化特性有关。透明质酸、甲壳素和肝素等多糖已作为功效型添加剂在化妆品行业有着广泛的应用。还介绍了一种具有抗凝血活性的新型多功能化妆品添加剂——纤维素硫酸酯，指出生物活性多糖在功效性化妆品中有着广阔的应用前景。     

AIMP1衍生肽的护肤功效研究

皮肤糖化反应是导致肤色暗黄、色斑、老化的一个重要因素，针对皮肤糖化问题，开发了一种生物活性多肽并进行护肤功效验证。AIMP1衍生肽（AdP）是由氨基酰tRNA合成酶相互作用多功能蛋白质1(AIMP1)衍生而来的寡肽，具有类AIMP1的多种生物活性。采用牛血清白蛋白（BSA）糖化和羰基化体系研究AdP的抗糖化效果，并对含AdP的样品进行了临床功效测试。结果表明：AdP可减缓BSA与葡萄糖的糖基化反应，减少蛋白质羰基的生成，具有浓度依赖性；皮肤角质层含水量显著提高27.32%,TEWL降低12.77%,R2值提高10.34%,ITA°值提高14.25%，皱纹面积减少12.14%,AdP可有效抑制蛋白糖化，具有提升屏障功能、祛黄提亮抗皱的功效。     

海洋天然产物在化妆品中的应用

综述了海洋天然产物的功效及在化妆品中的应用。海洋天然产物具有优良的生物相容性,其成分与人体皮肤细胞十分接近,护肤机理可以说是一种仿生护肤,能让皮肤迅速有效地吸收营养,具有抗皱、抗衰、保湿、抵御紫外线、美白等功效,使皮肤护理更加天然和健康。因其确凿的护肤美容功效及明确的生物活性,已受到科研人员的重视和化妆品行业的青睐。     

具有抗敏舒缓功效的化妆品多肽

多肽可改善皮肤屏障功能、调节皮肤神经免疫、维持皮肤微生态等，可从多种角度发挥显著的抗敏舒缓功效。本文综述了敏感肌肤的形成机制，以及具有抗敏舒缓功效的化妆品多肽的研究进展，为化妆品多肽的应用和创新原料的开发提供参考和思路。     

多肽微量元素螯合物的研究进展

微量元素对促进机体生长发育、调节身体机能,维持人体新陈代谢都是十分重要的。多肽微量元素螯合物相比无机盐形式的微量元素更容易被人体吸收,其不仅能高效地提供生命活动必需的多种微量元素,同时还具有抗氧化、抗菌等生物活性,在食品、医药、化妆品等领域都具有广阔的应用前景。对多肽微量元素螯合物的螯合机理与结构、制备工艺、生物活性进行了综述,指出了多肽微量元素螯合物研究中存在的问题,并对未来的研究方向进行了展望。     

美容化妆品高科技趋势

美容化妆品既是一个产业也是一种文化，在高科技浪潮的影响之下，几乎是瞬息万变。美容化妆品是多种学科的结晶，随着精细化工、生物科学、材料科学的飞速发展，CAD在包装造型设计方面的应用，细胞科学在皮肤医学中的深入，使美容化妆品向深度和广度进展。不过，消费者自我保护意识的增强、环境优化呼声的紧迫以及各种法规的出台也给美容化妆品产业带来新的压力；中国即将加入世界贸易组织后，中国美容化妆品市场也将与世界化妆品市场融为一体，正确分析评价国内外化妆品市场能否继续发展的重要前提。     

从皮肤的免疫调节及修复再生理论揭示美容护肤的科学内涵

本文是作者多年来从事美容护肤品研究的经验总结，并结合前人的研究成果，提出美容护肤的皮肤免疫调节及修复再生理论。文中阐明了T细胞、B细胞、吞噬细胞、腺体细胞、干扰素、各种酶类以及氧自由基、酪氨酸酶、钙通道在皮肤免疫调节过程中的重要作用。并提出某些药物有调节物质代谢，抗脂质过氧化，抑制酪氨酸酶活性，延缓皮肤衰老，即修复再生的作用。文中进一步阐明了美容护肤之所以强调免疫调节，修复再生，是因为人体是一个整体，通过皮肤对药物的吸收、转化、激活、调节等手段，增强肌体的免疫功能，调整物质代谢及内分泌紊乱，提高肌体的适应能力，消灭活性氧自由基，从而达到美容护肤，治疗某些问题性皮肤的目的。     

多肽与寡核苷酸缀合物合成方法的研究进展

寡核苷酸在有选择性的抑制基因表达方面具有相当大的潜在应用价值。但因寡核苷酸的细胞透过性较低且易被核酸酶降解,使其应用受到了限制。许多生物活性多肽具有较高的细胞透过性,通过化学键将寡核苷酸和多肽连接起来,可以提高寡核苷酸的细胞透过性及对核酸酶的拮抗能力。综述了多肽与寡核苷酸常用的连接方式,并讨论了各自的特点。     

棕榈酰三肽-5在化妆品中的应用

功能化妆品日渐走俏,其中功能性成分,特别是多肽类添加物,以其稳定、安全、易吸收、效果好等优点扮演着越来越重要的角色。肽类具有多种生物活性,添加到化妆品中不仅能够从根本上改善并修复皮肤出现的各种问题,而且在补充肌肤营养、抗皱、抗衰老等方面的功效显著。本文概述了棕榈酰三肽-5的主要作用及其在化妆品等领域的应用。     

Eco-Sustainable Silk Fibroin/Pomegranate Peel Extract Film as an Innovative Green Material for Skin Repair

Skin disorders are widespread around the world, affecting people of all ages, and oxidative stress represents one of the main causes of alteration in the normal physiological parameters of skin cells. In this work, we combined a natural protein, fibroin, with antioxidant compounds extracted in water from pomegranate waste. We demonstrate the effective and facile fabrication of bioactive and eco-sustainable films of potential interest for skin repair. The blended films are visually transparent (around 90%); flexible; stable in physiological conditions and in the presence of trypsin for 12 days; able to release the bioactive compounds in a controlled manner; based on Fickian diffusion; and biocompatible towards the main skin cells, keratinocytes and fibroblasts. Furthermore, reactive oxygen species (ROS) production tests demonstrated the high capacity of our films to reduce the oxidative stress induced in cells, which is responsible for various skin diseases.     

Skin lipids in health and disease

Lipids are important for normal skin function. They are generated from two main sources – the epithelial cells and the sebum which is secreted onto the surface. Important functions of the lipids are to contribute to an effective barrier towards water loss, to protect from radiation and to prevent entry of harmful chemicals and microbes. There is also an increasing interest in the inflammatory characteristics of lipid signalling molecules which have important consequences for many common skin complaints. In many cases, these bioactive lipids can be regulated through dietary intervention or by topical and other therapies.     

Conductive Supramolecular Polymer Nanocomposites with Tunable Properties to Manipulate Cell Growth and Functions

Synthetic bioactive nanocomposites show great promise in biomedicine for use in tissue growth, wound healing and the potential for bioengineered skin substitutes. Hydrogen-bonded supramolecular polymers (3A-PCL) can be combined with graphite crystals to form graphite/3A-PCL composites with tunable physical properties. When used as a bioactive substrate for cell culture, graphite/3A-PCL composites have an extremely low cytotoxic activity on normal cells and a high structural stability in a medium with red blood cells. A series of in vitro studies demonstrated that the resulting composite substrates can efficiently interact with cell surfaces to promote the adhesion, migration, and proliferation of adherent cells, as well as rapid wound healing ability at the damaged cellular surface. Importantly, placing these substrates under an indirect current electric field at only 0.1 V leads to a marked acceleration in cell growth, a significant increase in total cell numbers, and a remarkable alteration in cell morphology. These results reveal a newly created system with great potential to provide an efficient route for the development of multifunctional bioactive substrates with unique electro-responsiveness to manipulate cell growth and functions.     

亚马逊莓（Euterpe oleracea）美白相关成分和作用研究现状

作为棕榈科植物Euterpe属中分布最为广泛、研究与商业化程度最高的品种，Euterpe oleracea（E. oleracea）的果实（为亚马逊莓的一种）因其卓越的抗氧化性能而跻身“超级水果”之列，同时也成为国际上新的研究热点。本文综述了E. oleracea的相关成分和作用研究现状，指出其富含不饱和脂肪酸、氨基酸、维生素等营养成分，并含有大量的以酚类化合物为主的生物活性物质，例如黄酮类化合物、酚酸、花青素与原花青素等。其中，总脂肪酸、亚油酸、阿魏酸、槲皮素、原儿茶酸、原儿茶酸甲酯等成分被证实具有皮肤美白作用。对E. oleracea进行的细胞实验和动物实验发现，其果肉提取物具有抑制酪氨酸酶活性以及使细胞免受紫外线引起的氧化应激伤害等潜在的皮肤美白功效。文章建议在未来的研究中，对E. oleracea的美白成分进行进一步挖掘，并通过动物实验与临床试验对其美白功效进行验证。     

Antioxidant activity and characterization of bioactive polypeptides from bovine hair

The antioxidant activity and food protection effect of bioactive polypeptides from bovine hair were investigated. In various in vitro tests, polypeptides showed a strong reducing power and a remarkable antioxidant capability to scavenge free radicals (ABTS, superoxide and hydroxyl radicals). Moreover, polypeptides also exhibited a significant food protection effect to inhibit the oxidation of edible oil by controlling the peroxide value (POV). Furthermore, by using gel filtration chromatography (GFC), high performance size exclusion chromatography (HPSEC), amino acid analysis and atomic force microscopy (AFM), an antioxidant polypeptide (APB) was purified and characterized with a molecular weight of 18.7 KDa in the form of spherical lumps, which was composed of 17 kinds of amino acids and contained sulfydryl group. Our results suggested that the antioxidant polypeptide from bovine hair could be a new potential source for preparing natural antioxidant applied in oil or oil-rich food.     

Plants as Modulators of Melanogenesis: Role of Extracts,Pure Compounds and Patented Compositions in Therapy of Pigmentation Disorders

The kingdom of plants as a “green biofabric” of valuable bioactive molecules has long been used in many ailments. Currently, extracts and pure compounds of plant origin are used to aid in pigmentation skin problems by influencing the process of melanogenesis. Melanin is a very important pigment that protects human skin against ultraviolet radiation and oxidative stress. It is produced by a complex process called melanogenesis. However, disturbances in the melanogenesis mechanism may increase or decrease the level of melanin and generate essential skin problems, such as hyperpigmentation and hypopigmentation. Accordingly, inhibitors or activators of pigment formation are desirable for medical and cosmetic industry. Such properties may be exhibited by molecules of plant origin. Therefore, that literature review presents reports on plant extracts, pure compounds and compositions that may modulate melanin production in living organisms. The potential of plants in the therapy of pigmentation disorders has been highlighted.     

Natural products from Bacillus subtilis with antimicrobial properties☆

Bacil us subtilis produces many chemical y-diverse secondary metabolites of interest to chemists and biologists. Based on this, this review gives a detalled overview of the natural components produced by B. subtilis including cyclic lipopeptides, polypeptides, proteins (enzymes), and non-peptide products. Their structures, bioactive ac-tivities and the relevant variants as novel lead structures for drug discovery are also described. The challenging effects of fermentation metabolites, isolation and purification, as wel as the overproduction of bioactive com-pounds from B. subtilis by metabolic engineering, were also highlighted. Systematical y exploring biosynthetic routes and the functions of secondary metabolites from B. subtilis may not only be beneficial in improving yields of the products, but also in helping them to be used in food industry and public medical service on a large-scale.     

Effects of Tenascin C on the Integrity of Extracellular Matrix and Skin Aging

Tenascin C (TNC) is an element of the extracellular matrix (ECM) of various tissues, including the skin, and is involved in modulating ECM integrity and cell physiology. Although skin aging is apparently associated with changes in the ECM, little is known about the role of TNC in skin aging. In this study, we found that the Tnc mRNA level was significantly reduced in the skin tissues of aged mice compared with young mice, consistent with reduced TNC protein expression in aged human skin. TNC-large (TNC-L; 330-kDa) and -small (TNC-S; 240-kDa) polypeptides were observed in conditional media from primary dermal fibroblasts. Both recombinant TNC polypeptides, corresponding to TNC-L and TNC-S, increased the expression of type I collagen and reduced the expression of matrix metalloproteinase-1 in fibroblasts. Treatment of fibroblasts with a recombinant TNC polypeptide, corresponding to TNC-L, induced phosphorylation of SMAD2 and SMAD3. TNC increased the level of transforming growth factor-β1 (TGF-β1) mRNA and upregulated the expression of type I collagen by activating the TGF-β signaling pathway. In addition, TNC also promoted the expression of type I collagen in fibroblasts embedded in a three-dimensional collagen matrix. Our findings suggest that TNC contributes to the integrity of ECM in young skin and to prevention of skin aging.     

Gamma radiation effects on peanut skin antioxidants

Peanut skin, which is removed in the peanut blanching process, is rich in bioactive compounds with antioxidant properties. The aims of this study were to measure bioactive compounds in peanut skins and evaluate the effect of gamma radiation on their antioxidant activity. Peanut skin samples were treated with 0.0, 5.0, 7.5, or 10.0 kGy gamma rays. Total phenolics, condensed tannins, total flavonoids, and antioxidant activity were evaluated. Extracts obtained from the peanut skins were added to refined-bleached-deodorized (RBD) soybean oil. The oxidative stability of the oil samples was determined using the Oil Stability Index method and compared to a control and synthetic antioxidants (100 mg/kg BHT and 200 mg/kg TBHQ). Gamma radiation changed total phenolic content, total condensed tannins, total flavonoid content, and the antioxidant activity. All extracts, gamma irradiated or not, presented increasing induction period (h), measured by the Oil Stability Index method, when compared with the control. Antioxidant activity of the peanut skins was higher than BHT. The present study confirmed that gamma radiation did not affect the peanut skin extracts' antioxidative properties when added to soybean oil.     

Human Induced Pluripotent Stem Cell-Derived Exosomes as a New Therapeutic Strategy for Various Diseases

Recently, an increasing number of studies have demonstrated that induced pluripotent stem cells (iPSCs) and iPSC-derived cells display therapeutic effects, mainly via the paracrine mechanism in addition to their transdifferentiation ability. Exosomes have emerged as an important paracrine factor for iPSCs to repair injured cells through the delivery of bioactive components. Animal reports of iPSC-derived exosomes on various disease models are increasing, such as in heart, limb, liver, skin, bone, eye and neurological disease and so forth. This review aims to summarize the therapeutic effects of iPSC-derived exosomes on various disease models and their properties, such as angiogenesis, cell proliferation and anti-apoptosis, with the hopes of improving their potential role in clinical applications and functional restoration.