Effects of crosslinking agents,dyeing temperature,and pH on mechanical performance and whiteness of silk fabric

The effects of bleaching and dyeing conditions on abrasion resistance, tear strength, and whiteness of silk fabrics were studied. Different crosslinking agents at various concentrations were introduced into the silk fabrics under various dyeing temperatures and pH. The results indicated that the oxidatively bleached silk fabric exhibited better mechanical properties than those of reductively bleached silk fabric. Sodium citrate was found to be the most suitable crosslinking agent for enhancing the abrasion resistance and tear strength of the silk fabrics with no significant effect on the whiteness. The mechanical property improvements of sodium citrate–dyed silk fabric were attributed to a chemical reaction between –COOH groups and amino acid side chains in silk fabric, the mechanism proposed in this work. Increasing sodium citrate resulted in improved mechanical properties and whiteness, but the opposite trend was found with increasing dyeing temperature. An optimum pH for dyeing the silk fabric in this work was 5.5. © 2003 Wiley Periodicals, Inc. J Appl Polym Sci 91: 1000–1007, 2004     

柞蚕丝绸生态染整技术概述

本文介绍了柞蚕丝织物的生态染整加工技术,重点介绍了天然染料染色、数码喷墨印花、壳聚糖及丝素抗皱整理等生态染整技术的性能特点及其在柞蚕丝绸染整中的应用情况,并指出了生态整理技术在柞蚕丝绸行业的发展应用前景。     

Haloacetyl reactive dyes-synthesis and application to silk

A series of haloacetyl reactive dyes have been synthesised. The reactivity of haloacetyl groups and the dyeing properties of the dyes on silk fabric were studied. The results show that the bromoacetyl group is more reactive than the chloroacetyl group and molecules containing a bromoacetyl group would dye silk under relatively mild dyeing conditions. Both the exhaustion and fixation on silk fabric are increased if a second reactive group is present in the molecule     

Dyeing of silk fabric with phenazine from Pseudomonas species

Phenazines, namely oxychlororaphin and pyorubin, were extracted from Pseudomonas sp., purified and their dyeing potential as colorants for silk dyeing were examined. The effects of the process variables, such as phenazine concentration, pH, temperature, time, type of mordant, relative colour strength and fastness properties have been studied. The results showed that the optimum condition for dyeing was 90 °C at pH 3 and dyeing time 90 min for oxychlororaphin, and 70 °C at pH 3 and dyeing time 60 min for pyorubin. The K/S value of a pre‐mordanted silk fabric with oxychlororaphin was high when compared to that with the pyorubin. The antimicrobial activity of a dyed silk fabric was tested against Salomonella paratyphi, Escherichia coli and Shigella flexneri.     

羊毛混纺织物的染色

羊毛混纺织物兼容多组分纤维的性能,优点明显,但是染色工艺复杂,成本较贵.因此,研究开发新型染料及新型染色方法对羊毛混纺织物的染色具有重要意义.本文综述了羊毛/腈纶、羊毛/锦纶、羊毛/蚕丝、羊毛/Tencel等羊毛混纺织物的染色现状及进展.     

Dyeability improvement of polyester pretreated with some alkoxides

The influence of some alkoxides in alcoholic media, having various dielectric constants, on the physical and mechanical properties was thoroughly studied in a previous work to attain silk‐like polyester fibers. In this investigation, the dyeability behavior of this silk‐like polyester is tried. Both immersion and padding techniques are applied in the treatment. The dyeability of the pretreated polyester fabric with disperse dyes shows some progressive improvements with lowering the dyeing temperature and/or decreasing the time of dyeing attained. Ethoxide is found to be more effective in enhancing the dyeability of polyester fabric than either methoxide or propoxide. Dyeing of the pretreated polyester fabric at the boil without using carriers or conducting high temperature/high pressure dyeing is also possible. Washing and crocking fastness are relatively enhanced. Physicochemical investigations of the dyeing process and a mathematical analysis for evenness are given. A decrease in the half dyeing time and an increase in the rate of dyeing of the pretreated polyester as compared with the untreated one are noticed. © 2007 Wiley Periodicals, Inc. J Appl Polym Sci, 2008     

Studies on silk fabric dyed with a hemicyanine dye

Silk fabric was dyed with a hemicyanine dye, DHEASPBr‐C₄, to create the fluorescent silk fabric in this article. The study initially focuses on the dyeing properties of the dyed silk fabric, followed by the reflectance and emission spectra. The results show that the sorption isotherms are the Langmuir type and the dyed silk fabrics using DHEASPBr‐C₄ have an obvious fluorescent effect in the spectral range 570–720 nm, while their peak locations of ca. 590 nm in the emission spectra are under the excitation of 365 nm. Finally, the CIE coordinates of the dyed silk fabric are discussed in order to investigate further potential applications.     

An innovative study on dyeing silk fabrics by modified phospholipid liposomes

Modified phospholipids from the commercial soybean lecithin were prepared via acetylation of the acetone insoluble fraction phosphatidylethanolamine. N‐Acetyl‐phosphatidylethanolamine was used to prepare liposomes for encapsulating anionic dyes (acid and reactive dyes) to be used in dyeing silk fabric. Size measurements of the liposomes showed that the maximum vesicle size was 36.61 nm for empty liposomes in comparison with 39.08 and 39.75 nm for acid dyes and 51.78 and 59.20 nm for reactive dyes. The efficiency of the micro‐encapsulated dyes to dye silk fabric has been investigated and compared with the conventional dyeing process using different parameters. It was confirmed that the acetylated acetone insoluble fraction liposome shows better encapsulation of the reactive dyes and achieves more dye uptake than the acid dyes. It was also found that fastness properties of dyed silk with micro‐encapsulated anionic dyes did not change significantly more than the conventional dyeing method. Reuse of the micro‐encapsulated dyebath produces low water pollution as the effluent is virtually colourless. As a result, the process is also economic and eco‐friendly.     

Chemical finishing of silk fabric

The optimum technique of finishing silk fabric with EPSIA (a silicone-containing epoxy crosslinking agent) has been investigated through single factor experiments and orthogonal design. Treatment parameters such as finishing agent concentration, catalyst concentration, steaming temperature and time have been investigated. Changes of physical properties, durability to laundering and dyeing properties of the finished silk are also discussed.     

Extraction of natural dyes from Alpinia blepharocalyx K. Schum. for dyeing of silk fabric

Natural dyes were extracted from the leaves and stems of Alpinia blepharocalyx K. Schum. Analysis of the designed experiment revealed that extraction at a plant/water ratio of 1:20 could reach an optimal production of natural dyes when extraction was performed at 80 °C, for 4 h, under 20 min ultrasound, in the presence of 10 g/l sodium hydroxide, and with two extractions. The extracted natural dyes were applied to the dyeing of silk fabrics using different methods, including or excluding a mordant. It was found that mordants had a significant effect on the colour of dyed silk fabrics. The silk fabric dyed with the pre‐mordant method using potassium aluminium sulphate as a mordant showed a bright yellow with a higher colour strength. The optimal dyeing conditions were reached when the extracted natural dyes were pre‐mordanted with 10 g/l potassium aluminium sulphate at pH 6, and for a 20 min dyeing time.     

Chemical modification of nylon 6 and polyester fabrics by ozone‐gas treatment

In a previous article, we reported on the ozone‐gas treatment of wool and silk fabrics in relation to the gas‐phase processing of textile fabrics. The treatment incorporated an oxygen element into the fiber surface and contributed to an increase in water penetration into the fabric. In this study, nylon 6 and polyester fabrics were treated with ozone gas in the same way as that of the wool and silk fabrics. The treatment incorporated much more oxygen into the fiber surface in the form of ? COH and ? COOH, as shown by electron spectroscopy for chemical analysis. Water penetration increased considerably with treatment, and the apparent dyeing rate and equilibrium dye uptake were also improved, especially for the polyester fabric, despite an increase in the crystallinity. Therefore, it seemed that the treatment brought about a change not only in the fiber surface but also in the internal structure of the fibers (the crystalline and amorphous regions) with regard to the dyeing behavior. Further, the mechanical characteristics of the ozone‐gas‐treated polyester and nylon 6 fabrics were measured with a Kawabata evaluation system apparatus. The shearing modulus and hysteresis widths increased with treatment, especially for the polyester fabric. Therefore, it was clear that the treatment caused a change in the fabric hand to crisp. © 2006 Wiley Periodicals, Inc. J Appl Polym Sci 100: 1344–1348, 2006     

吡唑啉酮型通用染料的合成与应用研究

以1=(2，5-二氯-4-磺酸基苯基)-5-甲基-5-吡唑啉酮为起始原料、经过一系列反应合成了一支吡唑啉酮型黄色通用染料。希望不需在染浴之外进行其它的化学反应就能用它对不同类型的织物进行染色。这是一个五步合成反应、包括重氮化偶合反应，氯置换反应，缩合反应，水解反应，缩合反应。实验中对第二步和第四步的反应工艺进行了改进，改进工艺后使两步反应的操作简化，成本降低，收率提高合成的染料以三聚氯氰为活性基，该染料及中间体的化学结构，通过^1H核磁共振谱、质谱和红外光谱分析得以表征，在中性染浴中，合成的染料可用于羊毛，丝绸，尼龙，涤纶纤维染色：通过加入N，N-二甲基乙二胺调节pH值为5，可对腈纶纤维进行染色。染料在纤维上的日晒和水洗牢度测试结果表明，染料在晴纶上的日晒、水洗牢度较低：在羊毛、丝绸上有中等的牢度性能；在涤纶、尼龙上日晒牢度较低．水洗牢度较高。     

Dyeing natural fibres in supercritical carbon dioxide using a nonionic surfactant reverse micellar system

A reverse micellar system in supercritical carbon dioxide has been developed as a dyeing medium. Water-soluble dyes such as reactive dyes and acid dyes could be sufficiently solubilised in the interior of a specially constituted reverse micelle. Protein fabrics, silk and wool, were satisfactorily dyed even in deep shades with conventional acid dyes without any special pretreatment. Cotton cellulose fabric was also dyed with conventional reactive dyes when the electrostatic force of repulsion between dye and cotton was eliminated. Compared to previously proposed supercritical dyeing methods, dyeing of fabrics with this system could be performed at low temperatures and pressures in a short time.     

Eco‐friendly pretreatment of silk fabric for dyeing with Delonix regia extract

The flowers of Delonix regia have been evaluated for the natural dyeing of silk using a biomordant and enzymes. This is an eco‐friendly textile pretreatment that does not utilise metal mordanting. The aqueous extract obtained from the dried red flowers was used for the dyeing of silk fabrics. A bright reddish‐brown hue colour was observed when 30% owf Delonix extract was used on the pretreated silk material. The silk fabric was treated with either an enzyme or biomordant. The resulting dyed fabric showed resistance to fading. Finally, all dyed specimens were tested for wash and light fastness properties, making Delonix a viable alternative to synthetic red dyes. Through desorption studies, the order of reactivity of enzymes towards dye uptake in the one‐step process was found to be lipase > diasterase > protease–amylase = Pyrus(biomordant). For the two‐step process, the order of reactivity of enzymes was found to be protease–amylase > lipase > Pyrus (biomordant) > diasterase. Overall, it can be concluded that, treatments, the two‐step process was better in terms of larger colour yield values, fastness properties and both dye adherence ability.     

Reactive dyeing of silk using commercial acid dyes based on a three‐component Mannich‐type reaction

Acid dyes are employed for commercially dyeing silk, which results in ionic bonds between the silk fibroin and the dye. This generally leads to low wet fastness properties for dyed silk fabrics. In this work, three commercial acid dyes with aromatic primary amine structures were selected to dye silk using a Mannich‐type reaction, resulting in improved wet fastness of dyed silk by forming covalent bonds between silk fibroin and dye. The Mannich‐type reactive dyeing was applied to silk fabrics at both 30 and 90°C in trials. Dyeing at 90°C can shorten the dyeing time compared with dyeing at 30°C, even although dye exhaustion and relative fixation at 90°C were a little lower. The dyeing process was optimised when the dyeing temperature was 90°C, dyebath pH 4, dye‐to‐formaldehyde ratio 1:30 and holding dyeing time 60 minutes. The results showed that the dye exhaustion on silk fabrics for the three aromatic primary amine‐containing acid dyes exceeded 94% and their relative fixation was over 80%. Their washing and rubbing fastness reached grade 4 or higher. Hence, the colour fastness properties of dyed silk fabrics using the Mannich‐type reactive dyeing method is superior to the conventional acid dyeing method using the same aromatic primary amine‐containing acid dyes. The Mannich‐type reactive dyeing for silk fabrics at 90°C can be developed into a novel and rapid reactive dyeing method, promising an effective dyeing process with excellent colour fastness.     

再生蚕丝蛋白纤维的染色性能研究

主要研究染料种类、染料质量分数、氯化钠质量浓度、染色时间、染色温度等5个因素对再生蚕丝蛋白纤维上染率的影响,分析了再生蚕丝蛋白纤维的染色性能.结果表明:对纤维素纤维染色性能较好的染料对再生蚕丝蛋白纤维也有很好的染色性能.运用直接染料对再生蚕丝蛋白纤维进行染色,得到的最佳工艺为:染料质量分数1％ (omf)、氯化钠质量浓度12 g/L、染色温度85℃、染色时间50 min.     

Dyeing and finishing of lyocell union fabrics: an industrial study

Lyocell union fabrics, namely lyocell/silk and lyocell/polyester fabrics, were woven in different fabric constructions and dyed with reactive dyes, acid dyes and a disperse dye. The resulting dyed fabrics were given a resin finishing treatment and their wash fastness was measured. With appropriate dye selection and control of dyeing conditions, some bright solid shades and effective cross‐dyed shades were obtained. The dyed and finished fabrics had a smooth, lustrous handle, ideal for lightweight garments.     

Dyeing properties of silk produced by silkworms reared on artificial and mulberry leaf diets

The dyeing properties were investigated for silk proteins produced by silkworms reared entirely on an artificial diet (A) and a mulberry leaf diet (M). The dyeing experiments were carried out with CI acid orange 7 at pH 3.9 and 60°C. The sericin contents of the A and the M raw silk samples were determined to be 26.0% and 23.7%, respectively. The equilibrium dye uptake and the dyeing rate of the A silk fibroin were almost the same as those of the M silk fibroin. The equilibrium dye uptake on each silk sericin was 3–4 times higher than that of the silk fibroin. On the other hand, the equilibrium dye uptake of the A silk sericin was higher than that of the M silk sericin, but the dyeing rate of the former was slower than that of the latter.     

磷酸腺苷对蚕丝织物的生物阻燃耐久整理

为了满足对蚕丝织物生态阻燃的需求，以1-(3-二甲氨基丙基)-3-乙基碳二亚胺 (EDC)和 N-羟基琥珀酰亚胺(NHS)为催化剂将磷酸腺苷(AMP)引入蚕丝织物。采用FTIR、SEM、EDS等对改性前后丝织物的化学结构、表面形貌和元素含量进行表征，采用极限氧指数仪、垂直燃烧测试仪、锥形量热仪和热重分析仪对其阻燃性能和热稳定性进行测试，同时对改性前后丝织物的拉伸断裂性能和织物风格等物理机械性能进行测试。结果表明，改性丝织物表面呈现颗粒状覆盖物，且均匀分布着磷元素。改性丝织物增重率达13.3%时，极限氧指数达30.10%，相比于原丝织物失重率降低13.1%，热释放速率降低30.6%，损毁长度减少11.1 cm，并出现明显炭层。经50 次洗涤后，改性丝织物极限氧指数仍能达到25%以上，说明改性丝织物具有较好的耐洗性能。     

离子液体在桑蚕丝脱胶及染色中的应用

离子液体1-丁基-3-甲基咪唑六氟磷酸盐BmimCl作为辅助试剂用于桑蚕丝的脱胶及染色过程,考察BmimCl离子液体对蚕丝脱胶率、白度及染色性能的影响。结果表明,在酸性条件下离子液体能显著提高桑蚕丝的白度,有效去除成品桑蚕丝肤色。当离子液体体积含量为5%,在pH值为2,浴比为1∶50,脱胶温度为98℃时脱胶1 h,桑蚕丝的脱胶率约为21%,白度达到80以上。以上述脱胶后的桑蚕丝进行染色,结果表明以离子液体作为辅助试剂脱胶得到的桑蚕丝的色深值达到20,同时其他染色系能也达到常规染色要求。