常用植物染料色素提取方法

植物染料是在古代传统染色中应用得最多的染料。理论上讲凡是含有色素的树皮，根茎，花朵，果实等，均可用来染色。但由于不同植物，色素含量差异很大，所以实际能用的植物很少，色素含量高的植物有蓝草，栀子，槐花，栌木，黄蘖，皂斗，苏木，紫草，茶叶，菊花，五倍子，石榴，黄连，……等。绝大多数植物，色素含量很低，实际应用价值不高。     

语音贺卡，节日祝福串串烧

起风的时候，他们的祝福也就陆续来了，书信，贺卡，短信，还有电话，提醒我冬天虽然光临，但温暖始终萦绕不去，“温度三十度，心与眼都是满足和幸福”。我躲在房间里数祝福，圣诞的，平安夜的，元旦的，新年的，语言毫无逻辑，形式千奇百怪，都是那帮人的风格，好玩。     

影响评酒准确性的因素探讨

评酒是通过感觉器官来判断酒质的重要手段，评酒的准确性受诸多因素的影响，包括：情绪因素，情绪稳定，注意力集中，味觉嗅觉细胞较活跃，品评正确性高，感情因素，评酒员应克服感情因素，做到公平，公正；基本素质，要熟悉各种酒及其香味成分，掌握评分标准，提高自身素质；身体健康状况，身体不适，品评准确性将大打折扣，保持身体健康，是评酒的基本条件；品酒顺序，要克服品评的效应影响，反复对比，品评环境，应保持安静，光线柔和，气温宜人，此外，生活环境，消费观念，学术水平等对评酒准确性都有一定影响。     

积奇风采 时尚与品牌的交融运营体

“积奇风采”寻找恰当的元素，结合服装独有的风格，将时尚的穿衣元素在模特身上体现的淋漓尽致，其塑造的模特揉和了传统及随意的格调，既高贵又充满自由不羁的感觉，让服饰散发诱人情怀。“积奇风采”秉承以质取胜，顾客为先，以效率求生存的经营理念，深受业界众多客户所青睐，现已成为众多知名品牌的指定生产商。如：男装品牌依文，威克多，杰特曼，罗马世家，新柏林，萨巴蒂尼，奥维兰，布鲁尼……女装品牌吉芬，玫而美，爱慕，米茜尔，卡里，子苞米，珂曼，福芬，科蓝，杉杉，柯利亚诺……[编者按]     

明珠美食浓浓情

上海菜是中国主要菜之一，以当地本帮菜为基础兼有京，鲁，锡，川，广，闽，杭，豫，徽，湘等肴馔，与素菜，清真菜以及西餐等特色风味，按上海内联全国，外通世界的商埠特点，适应五方杂处的口味需求，均予适当变化，形成兼容并蓄，广采博收，淡雅鲜醇，开拓趋势的海派风格。烹饪工艺以滑炒，生煸，红烧，清蒸见长，口味注重共味，讲究清淡而多层次，质感鲜明，款式新颖精致，同时吸收外来文化，不断创新，极富时代气息，形式高雅脱俗，刀工精细，配色和谐，滋味丰富，口感平和，清清爽爽，温文尔雅，其中的柔情蜜意，不温不火正是上海菜一贯的风格，无不体现上海人的精细与精致。     

辛辣芳香的生姜

生姜，系多年生姜科姜属单子叶植物。从现有的历史资料分析，生姜原产于我国黄河与长江流域之间，早住周代我国就开始人工栽培，在西汉时成为一种重要的经济作物。北魏贾思勰在《齐民要术》中，载有生姜的栽培技术。元朝《王贞农书》对姜的用途、栽培技术和贮藏方法等作了更详细的描述。目前，各地的名品有：河南曾山的张良姜，根茎芳馥味浓，纤维细致，久煮不烂，辣味持久；山东临沂、昌邑、安丘的大姜，又名黄姜，根茎姜球数较少，姜球肥大，节少而稀，外形美观，是出口美国、日本的主要品种；安徽铜陵生姜，姜块呈佛手状，纤维少，质地脆嫩，香气浓郁，辛味中等；陕西城固黄姜，姜块肥大呈扁形，外皮光滑，浅黄褐色，肉淡黄色，味辛辣，含水少，其姜汁稠；江西兴国生姜，表皮金黄色，色泽鲜艳，纤维少，甜辣适口，入菜不馊，久贮不变；广州肉姜，根茎肥大饱满，肉脆，味辣，纤维较少，是传统出口产品。     

红地球葡萄使用赤霉素和膨大素的效果及技术

新疆具有生产葡萄得天独厚的自然资源，光照充足，热量丰富，昼夜温差大，还有灌溉条件和肥沃的土地，年降水量少，气候干燥，病菌很少，这就赋予了生产无污染葡萄的自然条件。红地球又名红提，在新疆昌吉市栽培自然表现良好，坐果率高，含糖量高达22%，口感好，风味佳，果穗经套袋处理后，色泽艳丽呈玫瑰红色，颇受消费者的喜欢，但果粒偏小，只有9～11g，因此，提高红提葡萄单粒重是个很重要的课题。我们曾对红提葡萄制定了相应的技术措施，包括合理留枝留果，疏双穗、疏小穗，疏果粒，掐穗尖，花前结果枝摘心，控制穗粒为80～100粒，盛果…     

云南省立式炉新型节能烤房特点及推广应用效果

本项目针对全省现有烤房结构不够合理，性能不够优良，操作不便，调控不灵，能耗高，不适应优质烟叶烘烤的现状，实施烤房的研究和创新，经博采众长，技术集成，多点试验，反复设计，筛选出结构合理，调控灵活，操作方便，安全，增质节能显著，环境效益显著，改造成本低的“立式炉热风室新型节能烤房”和“立式炉平板式烤房”在全省推广应用，并取得了显著的经济效益，生态效益和社会效益。     

我们为什么不会吃了——读《什么可以吃》

退休，自己支配的时间多了，根据不同兴趣爱好，玩电脑，习书画，练太极，打麻将，养宠物，去旅游……而我，隔三差五，总喜欢到离家不远的中关村图书大厦转转，且无什么目的，文学也好历史也罢，这翻翻，那瞧瞧，突然一本名为《什么可以吃》的生活用书，闯入眼帘。     

服装摄影中的电影情节

服装摄影是服装发展的产物，讲究的是一种商业性目的。在我们看到的众多服装摄影照片中，大多是根据服装厂商的要求完成的，拍摄影的只能拍一些如清纯，靓丽，另类，活泼等简单的照片，很多优秀的服装摄影作品，在服装设计，化妆，制景，用光，构图，再加上摄影师的创意，也形成了一些独特的风格，堪称服装摄影中的精品，但是缺乏连续性，故事性。     

Moisture transmission behaviour of individual component and multi-layered fabric with sweat and pure water

Moisture transport through multilayer clothing system is one of the most important aspect governing the comfort and performance of multi-layered clothing system. In the present study, properties critical to functioning of outdoor apparels were tested using sweat and pure water for both multi-layered and single layer components i.e., polyester knitted fabric as inner layer (next to skin), polyester fleece/polyester spacer as middle layer and PU coated nylon as outer layer. Water vapour transmission rate of fabrics when tested with sweat solution was significantly lower as compared to water. Fabric with sweat also showed lower drying rate than with water. For sweat solution, absorption rate is higher for both inner and outer surface as compared to pure water for single layer fabrics. However, the wetting time (inversely related to spreading speed) is higher at inner surface and lower at outer surface. In general, the performance of multi-layered ensemble is dominated by the impact of PU coated layer. Multi-layered structure with spacer fabric as middle layer exhibits better water vapour transmission rate, overall moisture management coefficient and drying rate as compared to multi-layered structure with fleece fabric.     

Edible composite films of wheat gluten and lipids: water vapour permeability and other physical properties

Edible composite films comprised of wheat gluten as the structural matrix and various concentrations of different lipids as the moisture barrier component were tested for water vapour permeability, dispersion in water, opacity and mechanical properties. the effects of lipids on the functional properties of gluten-based composite films depended on the lipid characteristics and on the interactions between the lipid and the protein structural matrix. Beeswax, a solid and highly hydrophobic lipid, was the most effective lipid for improving moisture barrier properties of films; but these films were opaque, weak and disintegrated easily in water. Combining wheat gluten proteins with a diacetyl tartaric ester of monoglycerides reduced water vapour permeability, increased strength and maintained transparency.     

Water vapour permeability of edible bilayer films of wheat gluten and lipids

Various formulations and methods of fabricating edible bilayer films consisting of wheat gluten as a structural layer and a thin lipid layer as a moisture barrier were investigated and examined for water vapour permeability. Solid lipids such as beeswax or paraffin wax deposited in a molten state onto the base film were the most effective water vapour barriers. A film consisting of wheat gluten, glycerol and diacetyl tartaric ester of monoglyceride as one layer, and beeswax as the other yielded a water vapour permeability of 0.0048 g mm m⁻² mmHg⁻¹ 24h⁻¹, which was less than that obtained with low density polyethylene.     

The water vapour sorption characteristics and kinetics of different wool types

The water vapour sorption behaviour of a range of sheep wool types and alpaca was studied using dynamic vapour sorption. Sorption isotherms were interpreted using the polymer sorption model developed by Vrentas and Vrentas. Satisfactory fits were obtained for absorption and desorption isotherms with the adjustment of parameters outside the scope of what is allowed. This is possibly because the underlying Flory–Huggins approach does not take into account any clustering of sorbate within the polymer. Water clustering in the wool fibre, determined using the Zimm–Lundberg clustering function, starts above a fibre moisture content of approximately 20%. Sorption kinetics were analysed using the parallel exponential kinetics model, providing excellent fits and allowed for calculation of a fibre modulus at different relative humidities; the values were reasonable at the upper end of the hygroscopic range, but were overestimated at the lower end of the range.     

Thermal and mass transport properties of polyester–cotton plated fabrics in relation to back layer fibre profiles and face layer yarn types

Clothing plays an important role in maintaining thermal equilibrium between a human body and the ambient environment by serving as a medium for heat, moisture vapour and liquid moisture transfer. The ability of fabric to maintain this equilibrium is related to thermo-physiological comfort. Plating is an innovative knitted fabric production technique to obtain bi-layered fabrics. An attempt has been made to engineer plated knit structures with such a combination of fibre cross section in the back (inner/next to skin) and the yarn type in the face (outer) layer, so that a rapid liquid transfer from back layer by wicking and quick liquid absorption and evaporation by the face layer can be achieved. Plated fabrics using the combination of triangular polyester fibre in the back and carded cotton yarn in the face layer showed the higher thermal resistance, higher absorbent capacity and would be warmer to the initial touch. However, the combination of combed cotton yarn with triangular polyester fibre resulted in fabrics with the higher air permeability, moisture vapour transmission rate and transplanar wicking.     

Packing of micro-porous yarns. Part II: optimization of fabric characteristics

This paper is concerned with the study of the characteristics of plain woven fabric produced with micro-porous cotton yarns in weft. The micro-porous yarns with varying packing densities and level of pore volumes are produced by changing proportion of PVA fibre content in the blend, yarn twist multiplier (TM) and spindle speed at ring frame. The micro-pores within the structure of the yarn have been created by dissolving the PVA fibres using washing treatment in hot water. A three-variable factorial design technique proposed by Box and Behnken has been used to study the interaction effects of these variables on the characteristics of fabrics. The influence of these three variables on the mechanical, handle and comfort properties of fabrics are studied, the response-surface equations for all the properties have been derived and the design variables are optimized for various fabric properties. Improvements in bending resistance, abrasion resistance and compressional characteristics have been observed with incorporation of micro-pores within the yarn structure. These fabrics with micro-pores have improved thermal resistance and moisture vapour transmission compared to that of 100% cotton fabric.     

Role of filament cross-section in properties of PET multifilament yarn and fabric. Part I: Effect of fibre cross-sectional shape on transmission behaviour of fabrics

The transmission property of a fabric is a key factor that affects clothing’s comfort and decides the functional potential of clothing. The dependence of filament cross-section with varying shape factor (SF) on air, moisture and thermal transmission behaviour of fabric is determined in case of polyester multifilament woven fabrics. The linear density of each filament is kept identical for all 12 cross-section shape filaments. The SF of filament cross-section is an important factor which remained the prime factor to influence the transmission behaviour of fabric samples directly in many cases. Other indirect factors that influence the transmission behaviour of fabrics when the SF is identical are yarn structure, inter-fibre and inter-yarn space. Twelve different novel cross-sectional shapes are considered to make the multifilament woven polyester fabrics. The fabrics made from multifilament yarns having different SFs show that relative moisture vapour permeability and air permeability decrease with the rise in SF. Wickability increases with the rise in the SF of a filament cross-section. Multilobal, hexalobal and plus shapes were made a part of novel cross-sectional shapes in order to develop fabrics of higher comfort index.     

Investigation on permeability and moisture management properties of different denim fabrics after repeated laundering

The physiological comfort determined by air permeability and moisture management properties of fabrics is influenced by various constructional parameters of the fabric which give woven fabric a porous structure. Evaporation of sweat during wear has the potential to cool the body besides restricting the additional weight of sweat being absorbed by the fabric. In this study, comfort characteristics of denim fabrics with different weft yarn of cotton, polyester and core spun Lycra have been discussed. Effect of enzyme washing and repeated laundering on air permeability, moisture management and drying rate has also been discussed. It was observed that air permeability and water vapour permeability of unwashed denim fabrics with cotton weft yarn are significantly higher than the fabric with polyester and Lycra cotton weft yarns. The wetting time is higher for cotton and Lycra cotton yarn fabrics. One-way transport index is highest for Lycra cotton weft fabrics and lowest for fabrics with polyester weft. Fabrics with polyester weft yarns show highest spreading rate, spreading radius and drying rate due to better wicking and hydrophobic nature of polyester fibres.     

织物透湿测试方法比较

介绍国际上常用的五种织物透湿测试方法ASTM E96水正杯法与倒杯法、日本JLS L1099干燥剂倒杯法、ASTM F2298动态透湿测试法及ISO11092出汗热盘法，并对其测试条件、测试结果及其相关性进行了对比。其中正杯法与DMPC动态法有非常好的相关性，倒杯干燥剂法与出汗热盘法有较好的负相关性。应根据产品实际用途选择测试方法，以使测试数据具有实用意义。     

添加剂对聚氨酯以及人造麂皮性能的影响

研究在低模量聚氨酯（PU）树脂中加入不同添加剂后的膜结构变化，以及添加剂对人造麂皮服用性能（透气和透湿）的影响。通过对膜结构的电镜观察和物理性能测定，以及对人造麂皮整理效果的分析得出，表面活性剂类添加剂有利于提高聚氨酯的膜形成（指状孔穴或大孔穴），从而提高整理织物的透气、透湿等服用性能。