Quantitative two-dimensional analysis of facial wrinkles of Japanese women at various ages

To evaluate individual differences in the recognition of facial wrinkles, we asked 40 Japanese female observers to identify wrinkles using transparent sheets over frontal facial photos of four females aged 20, 39, 55 or 75 years. We then measured the number and length of those wrinkles by image analysis. Wrinkles identified by those 40 observers showed aged-related increases in the standard deviation (SD) values for number and length but age-related decreases in the coefficient of variation (CV)%. Therefore, to clarify factors affecting the degree of wrinkle detection, wrinkles were identified by two groups of age-matched male and female observers, by two groups that differed by age, and by two other groups, one of which who felt that there was an improvement in their wrinkles after application of an antiwrinkle agent and another group who did not feel that there was any improvement after the same treatment. Improvement was observed by replica image analysis in all groups. The degree of wrinkles identified was not affected by the age or by the sex of the observer group. However, the group who felt that there was an improvement in their wrinkles after treatment with the antiwrinkle agent identified a significantly higher number of wrinkles than did the group who did not feel that there was an improvement. These results suggest marked individual differences in the recognition of wrinkles. Fine wrinkles in relatively young subjects are difficult to detect, but moderate to marked wrinkles in middle-aged and in aged subjects can easily be detected. Concerning the cause of individual differences in the extent of wrinkle detection, observers who identified a large number of wrinkles tended to recognize not only pronounced wrinkles but also recognized fine wrinkles as 'wrinkles'. This seems to have also affected their feelings about the success of treatment with the antiwrinkle agent.     

A fully automated system to study skin surface patterns

An image analysis method to measure the human skin microrelief has been previously proposed.
This new method has been recently automated, using a 'robot'electronically driven by a Quantimet 900. This 'robot'consists of a change-over specimen driven by four motors, and allows forty Silflo® replicas to be analysed in 6 hours, each analysis giving the main directions of the furrows, their density and their mean depth.
For example, the volar forearm microrelief was studied from the detected shadows created by a 26° angle lighting, in the range of 5 to 100 μ m deep furrows. A 38° angle lighting allows such measurements from 50 to 1000 μ m and is used for studying 'crow's feet'wrinkles of the face.
Results clearly show that deep wrinkles appear as early as 30 years old on the human face. The consequences of actinic and mechanical stresses over the life span are discussed.
Un système automatique pour l'étude du relief cutané chez l'homme     

织物褶皱多尺度灰度共生矩阵分析

为建立一套客观、稳定、高效的织物褶皱评价系统,文章提出一种多尺度图像特征提取方法。首先,通过3层小波变换对织物二维图像进行分解,得到其高频系数;对原图及三个尺度下的小波系数分别生成灰度共生矩阵,并对这四个尺度的灰度共生矩阵提取对比度、相关性、角二阶矩、同质性及熵值表征织物褶皱变化;最后通过支持向量机对输入特征进行分类。结果表明,结合小波变换的灰度共生矩阵方法比单独使用灰度共生矩阵分类准确率高,说明多尺度的图像特征能够更加全面地描述织物褶皱变化。     

服装褶皱效果的评价

通过对服装表面褶皱的形成原理进行分析,提出采用图像技术对服装褶皱信息进行提取、处理、分析和评价的方法。进行了女式衬衫的着装实验,对着装后不同姿势形成的褶皱状态进行采集。介绍了所采集服装褶皱图像的处理方法,用图像的灰度作为基础,在图像上提取能够反映褶皱的数据。经过对数据的分析,提出了对服装褶皱的评价指标,如褶皱宽度、深度、数量等。从理论研究和实验测试2个方面,探讨了图像技术用来对服装褶皱的位置、宽度、深度和不匀等方面的特征进行数字化表达的可行性。     

The influence of radiation on the skin and the basis of protection

This paper reviews current ideas concerning the reactions involved in sunburn, suntanning, premature ageing and carcinogenesis due to acute or chronic exposure to sunlight. The physiological mechanisms of protection involving melanin pigmentation, thickening of the epidermal horny layer and urocanic acid are briefly discussed. The importance of wavelengths from 290-315 nm (UV-B) for these reactions is emphasized as is the need to investigate further the involvement of longer wavelength (UV-A, 315-400 nm).
L'influence des radiations sur la peau et les principes de la protection solaire
Cet article passe en revue les données actuelles concernant les réactions impliquées dans les processus de brûlure, bronzage, vieillissement prématuré et carcinogenese dus aux expositions aigues ou chroniques de la peau à la lumière solaire. Les mécanismes physiologiques de protection qui mettent en oeuvre la pigmentation par la mélanine, l'épais-sissement de la couche cornée, et l'acide urocanique sont brièvement discutés. On insiste sur l'importance des UV-B (longueurs d'onde de 290 à 315 nm) dans ces réactions, de même que sur la nécessité d'entreprendre des études plus approfondies sur le rôle des UV-A (315-400 nm).     

A review of ageing and an examination of clinical methods in the assessment of ageing skin. Part I: Cellular and molecular perspectives of skin ageing

The ageing process is noticeable within all organs of the body and manifests itself visibly in the skin. Skin ageing is influenced by several factors including genetics, environmental exposure, hormonal changes and metabolic processes. Together these factors lead to cumulative alterations of skin structure, function and appearance. The functioning of the central nervous, immune, endocrine and cardiovascular systems, as well as the skin is also impaired with age. Chronologically, aged skin is thin, relatively flattened, dry and unblemished, with some loss of elasticity and age-related loss of architectural regularity. General atrophy of the extracellular matrix is reflected by a decrease in the number of fibroblasts. Reduced levels of collagen and elastin, with impaired organization are primarily because of decreased protein synthesis affecting types I and III collagen in the dermis, with an increased breakdown of extracellular matrix proteins. Oxidative stress is considered of primary importance in driving the ageing process. The original free radical theory of ageing purported that the molecular basis of ageing was derived from a lifetime accumulation of oxidative damage to cells resulting from excess reactive oxygen species (ROS) produced as a consequence of aerobic metabolism. Although the skin possesses extremely efficient anti-oxidant activities, during ageing, ROS levels rise and anti-oxidant activities decline. The ROS are necessary in multiple MAP kinase pathways and the induction of AP-1, in turn, up-regulates expression of matrix-metalloproteinases providing a plausible mechanism for the increased collagen degradation in aged human skin.     

An oral nutraceutical containing antioxidants, minerals and glycosaminoglycans improves skin roughness and fine wrinkles

Various nutraceuticals (dietary supplements) are claimed to have cutaneous antiageing properties, however, there are a limited number of research studies supporting these claims. The objective of this research was to study the effectiveness of an oral nutraceutical containing antioxidants, minerals and glycosaminoglycans on cutaneous ageing. In this double-blind, placebo-controlled trial, 60 women aged 35–60 years were randomized to receive oral dietary supplement ( n  = 30) or placebo ( n  = 30), once daily for 12 weeks. The depth of skin roughness and fine wrinkles were measured using surface evaluation of skin parameters for living skin (Visioscan) at baseline, and at the 4, 8 and 12 weeks of treatment. Surface evaluation using a replica film (Visiometer) at baseline and at the 12th week of treatment was also carried out. Statistical differences in objective skin improvement were assessed by the independent t -test. The volunteers' satisfaction was tested using the chi-squared test. The baseline depth of skin roughness and fine wrinkles in the treatment group and the placebo group were 100.5 and 100 μm, respectively. At the end of the study, the depth of skin roughness and fine wrinkles in the treatment group showed a 21.2% improvement, whereas improvement in the control group was 1.7%. This difference was statistically significant ( P  < 0.001). With regard to the volunteers' satisfaction, there was no statistically significant decrease in the homogenization of skin colour, however, a statistically significant reduction in pore size and depth of skin roughness and fine wrinkles were observed ( P  < 0.05). No side effects were noted throughout the study. The oral dietary supplement containing antioxidants, minerals and glycosaminoglycans improved skin roughness and fine wrinkles but did not affect skin colour change in female volunteers.     

Intrinsic and extrinsic factors in skin ageing: a review

As the proportion of the ageing population in industrialized countries continues to increase, the dermatological concerns of the aged grow in medical importance. Intrinsic structural changes occur as a natural consequence of ageing and are genetically determined. The rate of ageing is significantly different among different populations, as well as among different anatomical sites even within a single individual. The intrinsic rate of skin ageing in any individual can also be dramatically influenced by personal and environmental factors, particularly the amount of exposure to ultraviolet light. Photodamage, which considerably accelerates the visible ageing of skin, also greatly increases the risk of cutaneous neoplasms. As the population ages, dermatological focus must shift from ameliorating the cosmetic consequences of skin ageing to decreasing the genuine morbidity associated with problems of the ageing skin. A better understanding of both the intrinsic and extrinsic influences on the ageing of the skin, as well as distinguishing the retractable aspects of cutaneous ageing (primarily hormonal and lifestyle influences) from the irretractable (primarily intrinsic ageing), is crucial to this endeavour.     

A review of ageing and an examination of clinical methods in the assessment of ageing skin. Part 2: Clinical perspectives and clinical methods in the evaluation of ageing skin

With the advancement of skin research, today's consumer has increased access to technological information about ageing skin and hair care products. As a result, there is a rapidly increasing demand for proof of efficacy of these products. Recognizing these demands has led to the development and validation of many clinical methods to measure and quantify ageing skin and the effects of anti-ageing treatments. Many of the current testing methods used to research and evaluate anti-ageing product claim to employ sophisticated instruments alongside more traditional clinical methods. Intelligent use of combined clinical methods has enabled the development of technologically advanced consumer products providing enhanced efficacy and performance. Of non-invasive methods for the assessment and quantification of ageing skin, there is a plethora of tools available to the clinical researcher as defined by key clinically observed ageing parameters: skin roughness and surface texture; fine lines and wrinkles; skin pigmentation; skin colour; firmness and elasticity; hair loss; and proliferative lesions. Furthermore, many clinical procedures for the evaluation of ageing skin treatments are combined with invasive procedures, which enable added-value to claims (such as identification and alteration of biochemical markers), particularly in those cases where perception of product effect needs additional support. As discussed herein, clinical methods used in the assessment of skin ageing are many and require a disciplined approach to their use in such investigations.     

Maintenance of the ubiquitin–proteasome system activity correlates with visible skin benefits

Researches on longevity and anti‐ageing molecules have clearly evidenced the potential to increase lifespan of the cells. These recent scientific data raise interests and questions on the capacity of the cells to live longer and maintain their fundamental mechanisms of protection, reparation or degradation of abnormal proteins to maintain their capital of healthy and functional cellular activity. In this concern, this study was focused on the ubiquitin–proteasome system as an essential cellular tool to maintain the pool of functionally active proteins allowing renewal of proteins and degradation of damaged proteins. As the proteasome keeps the ‘cells health capital’, it should be particularly interesting to associate the maintenance of the proteasome activity with increasing longevity. Indeed, although oxidative stress damage increases with ageing leading to collagen and cellular membrane alterations, it also leads to a reduction in the proteasome activity which is critical for the cells. The aim of this study was to better understand the cellular role of the proteasome and to provide new data showing the skin beneficial effects in activating the overall system of ubiquitination and proteasomal degradation. For this purpose, in vitro, ex vivo and in vivo experiments were performed to evaluate the effects of maintaining the ubiquitin–proteasome activity in basal and stress conditions on young versus aged cells. Experiments have included evaluation of a newly developed dimerized tripeptide targeting specifically the ubiquitin–proteasome pathway. Our results have demonstrated that maintenance of this essential mechanism that participates in abnormal protein elimination and protein renewal allows maintaining cellular integrity that correlates with visible skin benefits.     

Protective and restorative effects of a Commiphora mukul gum resin and triheptanoin preparation on the CCL-110 skin fibroblast cell line

Coenzyme Q10 (CoQ10) is a major ingredient in skin care products because of its anti‐wrinkle effects, although it has some side effects especially at higher amounts. In this study, we compare the anti‐wrinkle related properties of CoQ10 and a proprietary Commiphora mukul gum resin (guggul) and triheptanoin preparation (GU‐TC7). GU‐TC7 is prepared with a supercritical CO₂‐co‐solvent extraction with ethanol, standardized to 2% guggulsterones and triheptanoin, a triglyceride composed of three 7‐carbon fatty acids. Treatment of CCL‐110 skin fibroblasts with GU‐TC7 demonstrates a mild proliferative effect compared to CoQ10 and increased type I collagen synthesis. Additionally, GU‐TC7 inhibited matrix metalloproteinase‐1 (MMP‐1) expression in a dose‐dependent manner at 20–100 μg mL^?1 and inhibited human elastase expression by more than 50% as compared to no elastase inhibition with CoQ10 treatment. These results suggest that GU‐TC7 possesses properties that are applicable to the treatment of wrinkles and may be considered for its further evaluation in skin care products.     

The regulatory role of the tetrapeptide AcSDKP in skin and hair physiology and the prevention of ageing effects in these tissues – a potential cosmetic role

The naturally occurring tetrapeptide acetyl‐N‐Ser‐Asp‐Lys‐Pro (AcSDKP) recognized as a potent angiogenic factor was shown recently to contribute to the repair of cutaneous injuries. In the current article, we report the ability of AcSDKP to exert a beneficial effect on normal healthy skin and scalp and to compensate for the ageing process. In vitro AcSDKP at 10^?11–10^?7 M significantly stimulates the growth of human keratinocytes, fibroblasts and follicle dermal papilla cells. Moreover, it enhances the growth of human epidermal keratinocyte progenitor and stem cells as shown in a clonogenic survival assay. Topical treatment of ex vivo cultured skin explants with 10^?5 M AcSDKP increases the thickness of the epidermis and upregulates the synthesis of keratins 14 and 19, fibronectin, collagen III and IV as well as the glycoaminoglycans (GAGs). In the ex vivo‐cultured hair follicles, AcSDKP promotes hair shaft elongation and induces morphological and molecular modifications matching the criteria of hair growth. Furthermore, AcSDKP at 10^?11–10^?7 M was shown to improve epidermal barrier, stimulating expression of three protein components of tight junctions (claudin‐1, occludin, ZO‐1) playing an important role in connecting neighbouring cells. This tetrapeptide exercises also activation of SIRT1 implicated in the control of cell longevity. Indeed, a two‐fold increase in the synthesis of SIRT1 by cultured keratinocytes was observed in the presence of 10^?11–10^?7 M AcSDKP. In conclusion, these findings provide convincing evidence of the regulatory role of AcSDKP in skin and hair physiology and suggest a cosmetic use of this natural tetrapeptide to prevent skin ageing and hair loss and to promote the cutaneous regeneration and hair growth.     

芯丝种类对织物抗皱性及抗变形性的影响

文章采用全聚纺纺纱方式生产了JC/PET、JC/PTT、JC/SPH、JC/T400四种包芯纱和一种纯棉纱,利用这五种纱线织造了规格相同的五种机织物。分别利用客观与主观评价法,评价织物的抗皱性及平整度等级,同时测试了织物的拉伸弹性回复率,以研究芯丝种类对织物抗皱性及抗变形性的影响。结果表明:芯丝的加入可以改善纯棉织物的平整度;长丝的初始模量、弹性影响织物的抗皱等级,SPH的初始模量最高、T400的弹性回复性最好,因此JC/SPH和JC/T400包芯纱织物抗皱等级最高,可以达到3. 5级;且这两种长丝的表面均有沟槽,截面为异形,起到毛细管作用,其织物具有较好的吸湿排汗作用,是开发高保形免烫衬衫面料的理想选择。     

Chitin–glucan,a natural cell scaffold for skin moisturization and rejuvenation

Two clinical studies were conducted to evaluate the tolerance and effects of a copolymer of chitin and beta‐glucan, forming the exoskeleton of fungal cell walls, now supplied for cosmetic applications. A 6‐week randomized, double‐blind, placebo‐controlled study was conducted on 13 volunteers with sensitive skin to compare with 0.5–2% formulations chitin–glucan applied twice daily. Biometrological evaluations showed that erythema did not develop, the water retention capacity of the stratum corneum increased and the transepidermal water loss moderately decreased. Another 16‐week randomized, double‐blind, placebo‐controlled study was conducted on 20 men showing signs of ageing skin. A 1.5% chitin–glucan formulation was applied twice daily. Objective biometrological assessments showed a progressive increase in skin firmness and stratum corneum hydration when desquamation and skin roughness decreased. In conclusion, the chitin–glucan formulations appear safe. They significantly mitigate some signs of skin ageing and improve both stratum corneum hydration and skin barrier function.     

生物酶对毛纺针织制品防缩整理的应用

介绍了生物酶在毛纺针织制品防缩整理中的作用机理及其在实际生产中进行处理的参考工艺配方。通过预处理结合生物酶处理来改善羊毛纤维表面鳞片层物质结构与羊毛织物的性能。分析表明,该方法使羊毛表层的类脂物质去除和胱氨酸二硫键断裂,增加蛋白酶分子与羊毛蛋白的可及度,同时酶水解反应能够持续进行,显著改善了羊毛织物的润湿性,增强对化学助剂的吸附和渗透,经柔软处理后织物手感得到改善,同时提高了抗起毛起球性。     

Exploring the effects of non-medical versus medical approaches to the management of skin aging in women over sixty

This study was a pilot project, set up to assess ageing skin using a multi‐disciplinary approach. The main aim of this study was to evaluate whether the use of more radical (‘medical’) treatments in the management of skin ageing would bring superior results and ultimately make people look younger, than the use of cosmetics (‘non‐medical’ treatments). A simple post‐hoc study design was used, whereby medical treatments varied within the group, all of them completed at least 2 weeks before the start of the study. In addition, it was of interest to assess the suitability of the proposed combination of methods. A total of 21 female participants were recruited for this study: 11 for the non‐medical and 10 for the medical group. The multi‐disciplinary approach consisted of instrumental measurements, self‐assessment, expert assessment by Merz scales and a public perception survey. The majority of nearly 70 sets of instrumental skin data obtained in this study did not differ significantly between the non‐medical and the medical group. However, the medical group gave higher self‐assessment scores for their faces. The scores for hands were lower than scores for faces by both groups. This was partly supported by instrumental data (lower skin hydration on hands than on the face). The findings of the public perception survey of nine matched pairs of subjects scored the non‐medical group as younger looking. Data analysis has shown that the judgement of youthfulness did not depend on either the gender or the age of observers.     

番茄红素和维生素E复合抗氧剂的抗衰老作用

利用果蝇、老龄大鼠为动物实验模型分别考察了番茄红素和维生素E复合抗氧剂对果蝇寿命、大鼠血清中超氧化歧化酶（SOD）活性和过氧化脂质（LPO）含量的影响。结果表明，该复合抗氧化剂能够明显延长果蝇的平均寿命和最高寿命；具有显著增强SOD活性及降低LPO的功能。提示该复合抗氧剂具有一定的抗氧化、延缓衰老的作用。     

Analysis of pigmentation in human skin: quantification of ultraviolet ray images by digital image processing

A new method for quantifying pigmentation with transformation of ultraviolet ray images into digital images has been developed. Utilizing this method, the distribution of pigments deposited in healthy Japanese subjects has been investigated. The following characteristics of pigmentations have now been obtained as follows:
— the amount of total pigmentation areas and the frequency of appearance of large pigmented areas increase with ageing;
— in young and middle age groups, women have more pigmentation than men, whereas in old age, this trend is reversed;
— the amount of pigmentation is greatest on the front of the cheeks and the least on the forehead;
— pigmentation areas darken in summer, and the amount of pigmentation and number of pigmented areas increase in summer.
Interestingly enough, a correlation between 'ultraviolet rays in daily life' and 'the pigmentation in human skin' is strongly suggested.