Ink‐jet printing of cotton with natural dyes

Four natural dyes, annatto, cutch, pomegranate fruit rind, and golden dock, were used as colorants for the preparation of water‐based ink‐jet inks for digital textile printing. The physical and rheological properties (pH, conductivity, surface tension, and viscosity) of the inks were measured over a period of 90 days for the evaluation of ink stability and suitability for ink‐jet printing. The inks were found to be suitable and were used for the digital printing of cotton fabrics. The prints were subjected to wash, light, and rub fastness tests and colour measurements. Colour consistency and fastness results, especially after fixation, are comparable with those of synthetic dyes, which paves the way for the production of environmentally friendly ink‐jet inks using natural dyes for the digital printing of cotton through the formulation of suitable printing techniques.     

Properties of ink‐jet printed,ultraviolet‐cured pigment prints in comparison with screen‐printed,thermo‐cured pigment prints

A collection of printed fabrics for men’s shirts was designed and prepared using computer‐aided design/computer‐aided manufacturing technology. The colours for designs were ink‐jet printed on cotton fabrics with pigments and ultraviolet‐cured. These prints represented the target colours for subsequent flat‐screen printing, which was performed using pigment printing pastes and thermal curing. For an exact transfer of colours of the ink‐jet‐printed standard into the screen‐printing process, a computer recipe prediction method was used. A comparison of colorimetric parameters of fabrics printed with both printing techniques shows minimal and acceptable differences in the CIELab colour values. A comparison of colour fastness properties proves that very good colour fastness is achieved on the pigment‐printed fabrics produced with both printing techniques. The flat‐screen‐printed fabrics show better colour fastness to washing, perspiration and rubbing, while ink‐jet‐printed fabrics show better colour fastness to dry‐cleaning and light. The fabrics printed with both printing techniques have high rigidity and non‐elastic properties. The mechanical and physical parameters are strongly dependent upon the amount of the dry substance of the printing media applied on the cotton fabric surface, which is higher on screen‐printed fabrics. The ink‐jet‐printed fabrics show better air permeability than flat‐screen‐printed fabrics.     

Single‐phase ink‐jet printing onto cotton fabric

The current commercial application of ink‐jet reactive inks to cotton fabrics requires pretreating with pad liquor containing a thickener, urea and alkali prior to printing. In this study, attempts have been made to develop a reactive ink‐jet print in a single‐phase process by adding an organic salt to the ink formulation and hence removing the need to pretreat fabrics. This approach utilises inks containing both a reactive dye, in this case Procion Red H‐E3B, and an organic salt such as sodium formate, sodium acetate, sodium propionate or tri‐sodium citrate. The behaviour of a novel reactive ink formulation for ink‐jet printing on to cotton fabric was evaluated at different pH vlaues. The results at optimum pH indicated that printed non‐pretreated fabrics with ink containing organic salts exhibited a higher level of reactive dye fixation than printed pretreated fabric containing no organic salt ink. The yielded prints demonstrate excellent colour fastness to washing and dry/wet crocking properties. The light fastness of the printed fabrics was improved by adding an organic salt to the ink formulation.     

Disperse ink‐jet inks: properties and application to polyester fibre

Water‐based ink‐jet inks were prepared using press cake samples of two commercially available azo disperse dyes. The suitability of the inks for printing polyester fabric was evaluated via measurement of surface tension, conductivity, viscosity, pH and particle size distribution. Inks prepared by the proposed method fulfill most requirements for an ink‐jet ink depending on the colorant structure, the dispersing agent and the alcohol used. The inks were applied to polyester fabric by both printing and dyeing and the fastness of the ensuing coloured samples was assessed. The fastness properties of the dyed and printed polyester samples were found to be very good to excellent and generally meet accepted customer requirements. Oil‐in‐water microemulsions containing the same colorants were also prepared. Their properties, which are crucial to the suitability for ink‐jet ink, were compared with those of the conventionally prepared inks and were found to be improved, with the exception of conductivity, while surface tension remained within acceptable values.     

Enhancing the outline sharpness of crosslinked printed cotton fabrics using ethylene glycol diglycidyl ether

In the current study, to obtain environmentally friendly printed cotton fabrics with a clear contour edge, ethylene glycol diglycidyl ether (EGDE) as a crosslinking agent and guar gum as a thickener were used with natural madder dye. The solid content of the thickener was assessed to determine the optimal viscosity of the printing paste. Scanning electron microscopy images and colour depth (K/S) values were used to analyse the surface morphology and printing properties. The pattern outline of the printed cotton fabric was assessed with an optical microscope. Also, the overall fastness properties of the printed fabrics were evaluated. The results showed that when the solid content of guar gum was 2.5%, the viscosity of the printing paste was close to 10 000 mPa.s, which was suitable for printing cotton fabrics. Scanning electron microscopy analysis showed that most of the printing paste was removed during the washing process, and did not affect the microstructure of the cotton fabric. Compared with direct printed cotton fabrics, the K/S values of mordant and crosslinked printed cotton fabrics increased by 3.12 and 4.01, respectively. In the optical microscopy photographs, the mordant and crosslinked printed cotton fabrics displayed a clear outline sharpness of the printed pattern, and excellent printed products were obtained. The colour fastness to washing, rubbing and light of the crosslinked printed cotton fabric were significantly improved, reaching levels of 4-5.     

Application of thermochromic colorants on textiles: temperature dependence of colorimetric properties

Commercial thermochromic colorants were applied to a conductive cotton fabric prepared by using nichrome/cotton core‐spun yarns in weft and 100% cotton in warp. The fabrics were pretreated and coloured with thermochromic pigments in isolation, in combination with each other, or in a mixture with a non‐thermochromic pigment. The weft yarns were joined to allow passage of current through the fabric to enable ohmic heat generation to increase fabric temperature. The heat generation and temperature rise could be controlled by monitoring the voltage applied. The colour of the samples changed gradually with an increase in temperature, and significantly so when the temperature of the fabric rose beyond the activation temperature of the thermochromic colorant. The temperature‐dependent properties of commercial thermochromic colorants were determined using a spectrophotometer. Wash fastness of the samples was found to be fair in all cases except with the yellow colorant. Predetermined colour effects, such as camouflage or novel design, can be produced by combining thermochromic colorants with conventional pigments or thermochromic colorants with different activation temperatures.     

The influence of ink viscosity,water and fabric construction on the quality of ink‐jet printed polyester

This paper is concerned with the quality of lines and disperse ink in printing patterns on different untreated polyester fabric constructions. The lines running in the weft and warp directions were printed on polyester fabric constructions, and printing accuracy was assessed. Ink spreading is one of the important factors that influences the ink distribution. Thus, in order to acquire satisfactory ink‐jet printing products, it is essential to control the spreading of ink on the polyester fabric. To meet these conditions, a series of chemicals (disperse dye 5.01 wt%, PVP‐K30 0‐2 wt%, DEG 5‐20 wt%, water 64.17‐79.17 wt%, etc) with different mass fractions was used to prepare disperse ink. The jetting behaviour of ink was related to its surface tension and viscosity, which was characterised by an automatic surface tensiometer and rotational viscometer. Line profile was used to evaluate the printing effect. Low field nuclear magnetic resonance and three‐dimensional super depth digital microscopy were used to reveal the relationships between the state of water, ink diffusion behaviour and printing sharpness. The results showed that increasing ink viscosity or decreasing free water content is advantageous to improve the sharpness of the printing pattern. The effects of fabric structural parameters on line image quality are discussed. The printing quality was closely related to the weight and structure of fabric. The heavy weight fabrics had accurate print pattern sharpness. The fastness test results showed that the ink printing pattern had good colour fastness.     

Pretreatment effects on pigment‐based textile inkjet printing – colour gamut and crockfastness properties

The application of two commercial pretreatment agents, formulated to improve the performance of a six‐colour nano‐scale pigment ink set during the textile inkjet printing of cotton and polyester (PET) fabrics, was examined. An industrial scale printer, operating at 55 linear m/h and equipped with Kyocera printheads, was used to print on commercial fabrics (180 cm wide) prepared for digital printing. The work employed an industrial scale rather than a benchtop printer to enhance the utility of the results for a commercial environment. The colorimetric attributes of printed fabrics were recorded for the individual inks as well as for spot colour combinations generated using Dr. Wirth RIPMaster v11 software. Colour table profiles were also generated and the colorimetric values of inks were compared. Colour gamuts of inks on cotton and PET, including three‐dimensional volumes in the CIELab space, were examined to assess the role of pretreatment on the colorimetric properties of the printed substrates. It was found that the pretreatments enhanced the ink receptiveness, colour intensity and colour gamut of fabrics. Pretreatment of cotton resulted in a larger gamut and more vivid colours than on PET. However, wet and dry crockfastness results were found to be low. In this regard, Time‐of‐Flight Secondary Ion Mass Spectrometry analysis of fabrics printed in the presence and absence of pretreatment indicated that the low crockfastness arises from higher pigment levels on the surface of the pretreated fabric.     

Ink‐jet printing process for lyocell and cotton fibres. Part 2: The relationship of colour strength and dye fixation to ink penetration

The colour appearance on ink‐jet printed textiles is influenced by a range of factors, including the chemical and physical nature of the fibre, dye–fibre affinity, pretreatment and fabric structure. Regression analyses were conducted to study the correlation between colour strength, fixation and ink penetration obtained by ink‐jet printing lyocell fibres (standard Tencel and Tencel A100) and cotton with an ink based on a monofunctional reactive red dye. The fixation was highest on Tencel A100, followed by standard Tencel and then cotton, while colour strength was highest on standard Tencel followed by cotton and Tencel A100. A linear relationship between colour strength and ink penetration was found with cotton, indicating greater dependence of depth of shade on ink penetration than on standard Tencel and Tencel A100 fabrics, where the interrelationships were more complex, but of low statistical significance. A schematic representation is proposed illustrating the mechanism of ink penetration into pretreated fibres, which provides a reasonable interpretation of the events occurring as dye penetrates into and fixes onto the fibres.     

A custom ink‐jet printing system using a novel pretreatment method

A low‐cost and environmental‐friendly direct dye‐based ink‐jet printing system was developed. A novel ink‐jet pretreatment method was employed, in which the cationic fixing agent, Matexil FC‐ER, was applied as the colourless fixing ink and applied only on image areas of the fabric by ink‐jet printer. It was found that this new pretreatment method could more effectively enhance the colour strength and improve the wash fastness (greyscale ≥ 3) when compared with traditional exhaust application. The cross‐staining of non‐image areas of fabric was also apparently decreased using this new method. The light fastness of ink‐jet pretreated samples was slightly reduced as the presence of Matexil FC‐ER made dyes more sensitive to light.     

A study of the properties of ink-jet printed cotton fabric following low-temperature plasma treatment

This paper studies the effect of low-temperature plasma treatment on an ink-jet printed cotton fabric. Due to the specific printing and conductivity requirements for ink-jet printing, not all conventional printing chemicals, such as sodium alginate and urea, used for cotton fabric can be directly incorporated into the ink formulation. As a result, the cotton fabric requires pretreatment with the printing chemicals prior to the stage of ink-jet printing. Cotton is pretreated with the printing chemicals by means of a coating method. The aim of this paper was to study the possibility and effectiveness of applying low-temperature plasma treatment to enhance the performance of pretreatment paste containing sodium alginate so as to improve the properties of the ink-jet printed cotton fabric. Experimental results revealed that a low-temperature plasma pretreatment coupled with the ink-jet printing technique could improve the final printed properties of cotton fabric.     

Preparation of melamine‐formaldehyde encapsulated fluorescent dye dispersion and its application to cotton fabric printing

In this study, CI Solvent Yellow 43 was encapsulated by melamine‐formaldehyde (MF) resin via in situ polymerisation to prepare the core‐shell structured fluorescent pigment. Fourier Transform‐infrared spectroscopy, transmission electron microscopy, scanning electron microscopy, thermogravimetric analysis and differential scanning calorimetry were used to characterise the encapsulated CI Solvent Yellow 43, indicating that MF successfully encapsulated CI Solvent Yellow 43 and that a core‐shell structure was formed. The prepared MF encapsulated fluorescent dye dispersion was also applied to flat screen printing of cotton fabrics, and the colour properties and fastness properties (washing and rubbing fastness) of printed fabrics were studied. The results showed that the encapsulated CI Solvent Yellow 43 printed cotton fabric exhibited a higher chroma and fluorescence intensity than that printed with unencapsulated CI Solvent Yellow 43. Moreover, the washing and rubbing fastness of the encapsulated CI Solvent Yellow 43 printed fabric was improved.     

The use of plasma pre-treatment for enhancing the performance of textile ink-jet printing

In this study the effect of low temperature plasma (LTP) treatment of cotton fabric for ink-jet printing was investigated. Owing to the specific printing and conductivity requirements for ink-jet printing, none of the conventional printing chemicals used for cotton fabric can be directly incorporated into the ink formulation. As a result, the cotton fabric requires treatment with the printing chemicals prior to the stage of ink-jet printing. The printing chemicals as a treatment to cotton fabric are applied by the coating method. The aim of this study was to investigate the possibility and effectiveness of applying LTP pre-treatment to enhance the performance of treatment paste containing sodium alginate, to improve the properties of the ink-jet printed cotton fabric. Experimental results revealed that the LTP pre-treatment in conjunction with the ink-jet printing technique could improve the final properties of printed cotton fabric.     

Aloe vera gel: a new thickening agent for pigment printing

An attempt was made to print cotton fabric with pigments using a new thickening agent based on Aloe vera gel in combination with sodium alginate. The results were compared with the standard conventional printing recipe containing synthetic thickener, and a favourable effect of Aloe vera introduction was achieved. The results show that the properties of the printed fabric (sharpness, colour yield, overall fastness properties, softness, and water vapour transmission) are dependent on the percentage of Aloe vera gel in the thickener combination, the concentration of printing auxiliaries, and the curing conditions. Optimal printing properties were achieved by using a printing paste containing 80% Aloe vera/20% sodium alginate (700 g kg^?1), pigment (50 g kg^?1), binder (145 g kg^?1), fixer (10 g kg^?1), and ammonium sulfate (5 g kg^?1), followed by drying at 85 °C for 5 min and curing at 150 °C for 3 min. The sample printed with the new recipe showed superior rubbing fastness and handle properties, with a slightly lower colour yield, when compared with the sample printed with synthetic thickener. Finally, economic issues arising from synthetic thickener substitution are highlighted.     

Modified guar gum: An alternative source for printing of cotton fabric with reactive dye

The alginate thickener is the thickener frequently used for reactive printing of textile. The thickener responds with reactive pigments and thus does not lead to the fabric composition becoming stiffer. In this study, we prepared oxidised natural guar gum with hydrogen peroxide, sodium hypochlorite and sodium hydroxide. All other polysaccharides comprise reactive hydroxyl units with a stronger reactivity that must be replaced if they are to be used in reactive printing. Guar derivatives were synthesised and verified using Fourier-transform infrared (FTIR) spectroscopy. Natural thickeners, synthetic guar gum derivatives, have been employed in textile printing technique. In comparison to other synthetic thickeners, modified environmental guar gum polymer has been shown to be an ecologically friendly and low-cost thickener. Cotton fabric printed with modified guar thickening with hydrogen peroxide has even stronger colour strength than fabric printed with sodium alginate thickener, which is highly favourable. Penetration properties, colour value, colour strength, colour fastness to washing, light and rubbing was compared with alginate thickener (readily available on the market). Guar gum thickeners showed enhanced features versus sodium alginate for reactive printing. Partially replaced guar gum is an appropriate option due to the colour and physical properties.     

Some properties of a thickener for preparing inkjet printing ink for nylon carpet

The properties of a thickener for nylon carpet inkjet printing are presented in this work. A water-based ink was prepared from polyacrylate-based thickener. The physical and chemical properties of the polyacrylate-based thickener used for preparing the inkjet printing ink, as well as its printing effects on carpet, were investigated. Before printing, the properties of the ink, including its surface tension, electrolyte resistance, storage stability, and percentage removal, were investigated. After printing, the efficiency of coloration of printed carpet and the fastness of printed carpet were studied. The results concerning the surface tension and percentage removal of printing ink show that the polyacrylate-based thickener printing ink is suitable for nylon carpet inkjet printing. Meanwhile, its storage stability and electrolyte resistance make it suitable for printing. The efficiency of coloration of printed carpet and the fastness of printed carpet satisfy the requirements of application at appropriate ink concentration and viscosity.     

Effect of cotton fabric pretreatment on drop spreading and colour performance of reactive dye inks

Ink dot distribution on cotton fabrics determines the colour performance of reactive dye inkjet printing, and ink drop spreading is one of the important factors influencing the ink dot distribution. In order to reveal the relationship between fabric pretreatment and ink drop spreading, two pieces of cotton fabric were pretreated respectively with sodium alginate and sodium alginate plus high fatty acid derivative solutions. Results indicate that the surface energy of the cotton fabrics was reduced from 73.79 to 69.45 and 58.49 mJ m^?2 after the pretreatment with sodium alginate and sodium alginate plus high fatty acid derivative respectively. Correspondingly, the spreading area of cyan ink drops on these fabrics was reduced from 104.9 to 92.5 and 72.3 mm². Furthermore, on the fabric treated with sodium alginate plus high fatty acid derivative, the strip‐like ink dots were narrow and short, which means the dye was concentrated in an area on the fabric surface. Colorimetric values of the inkjet‐printed fabrics demonstrated that the high fatty acid derivative would enhance the ability of sodium alginate to control ink droplet spreading, thereby improving the colour performance.     

Properties of differently printed and easy‐care finished linen fabrics

Linen fabrics were printed with reactive dyes, vat dyes and pigments. The prints were cured and after‐treated using conventional processes. Printed and unprinted fabrics were finished with low‐formaldehyde resin in a pad–dry–cure process. The mechanical properties (i.e. mass per unit area, flexural rigidity, tenacity at maximum load, wrinkle recovery angles and air permeability) with characteristics of printed and easy‐care finished fabrics were measured and the mutual influence of printing and finishing on these properties was discussed. Moreover, the colour difference between the finished and unfinished printed samples was measured, and the colour fastness to washing, appearance of fabrics after domestic washing, colour fastness to rubbing and light was compared.     

Photochromic ink formulation for digital inkjet printing and colour measurement of printed polyester fabrics

The application of a series of commercial photochromic dyes to polyester fabric by a digital inkjet printing method was investigated. Solvent‐based ink systems using the dyes were formulated. The inks were characterised in terms of their physical properties which are related to the jettability of the inks, and finally the prints were fixed onto polyester fabrics by thermal fixation. Colour measurement of the printed fabrics was used to measure their degree of photocoloration, fading rate, fatigue resistance, and storage stabilities. The measured properties of the inkjet‐printed fabrics were compared with the same properties of the same dyes applied to polyester fabrics by dyeing methods. The printed fabrics demonstrated inferior performance in terms of the degree of photocoloration, superior performance in the case of background colours, a higher rate of fading, and a lower fatigue resistance compared with that shown by the same dyes applied to polyester fabric by dyeing methods.     

Ink‐jet printing of nylon fabric using reactive dyestuff

This study discusses ink‐jet printing of nylon fabric with reactive dyestuff. Specifically, this paper investigates the impact of the concentration levels of pretreatment paste on fabric permeability, and examines the influence of various acid agents, hygroscopic agents and different processing conditions on colour yield. Results show that ink‐jet printing displayed excellent wet fastness in repeated wash testing. This study used four reactive dyestuffs, cyan, magenta, yellow and black, all of which achieved both wash fastness and crock fastness of grade 4.