The role of chelants in controlling Cu(II)‐induced radical chemistry in oxidative hair colouring products

The catalytic formation of hydroxyl radicals in oxidative hair colourant systems in the presence of added copper ions was measured and quantified using a colorimetric probe N,N′‐(5‐nitro‐1,3‐phenylene)bisglutaramide. Also monitored in the same experiments was the decomposition of hydrogen peroxide. The first set of experiments was performed using aqueous model solutions containing the key oxidant actives in a hair colourant, ammonium hydroxide and hydrogen peroxide at pH 10, with added copper and calcium ions. The second set of experiments was performed in the presence of hair containing different levels of copper in conditions very close to those found during hair colouring. Both sets of experiments demonstrate the ability of copper ions to trigger the formation of hydroxyl radicals and catalyse the decomposition of hydrogen peroxide. The ability of chelants ethylenediamine tetraacetic acid (EDTA) and N,N′‐ethylenediamine disuccinic acid (EDDS) to moderate the flux of hydroxyl radicals formed in solution systems was demonstrated in the presence of copper ions alone. However, only EDDS was successful in the presence of both calcium and copper ions. This was confirmed in the hair experiments where again only EDDS was successful at preventing hydroxyl radical formation where hair is added as the source of copper and calcium ions. These results are explained using metal speciation modelling and demonstrate the importance of the chelant to be able to specifically bind and prevent the one‐electron redox chemistry of copper in the presence of high levels of calcium ions as found in hair. The formation of hydroxyl radicals during the colouring process was shown to lead to hair structure damage as measured by protein loss. EDDS was demonstrated to significantly reduce cuticle damage by suppressing the formation of the hydroxyl radicals in systems with realistic concentrations of calcium and copper.     

The structural implications of water hardness metal uptake by human hair

Human hair can extract significant levels of calcium and magnesium, water hardness metals, from tap water immediately following chemical treatments and during hygiene practices. We have previously shown that this uptake is primarily a function of the condition of the hair. Depending on the extent of chemical damage, the hair can extract notable amounts of water hardness metals even from soft water. As water hardness metals concentrate primarily in the cuticle layers of the hair fibre, it is hypothesized that their presence will affect the structural properties that are chiefly driven by the cuticle. We examined hair mechanics and styling by technical measures of single-fibre torsional and tensile properties, combability and style retention as a function of the calcium and magnesium content of virgin and bleached hair. Our work has indicated that water hardness can affect hair properties. Fibre stiffening was induced by the presence of water hardness metals inside the fibres of both virgin and bleached hair. A reduction in combing forces was also observed, and this effect is believed to be a result of the stiffening. The style retention of virgin hair was improved by water hardness metals, whereas that of bleached hair was slightly reduced.     

Application of TLC and HPTLC in the analysis of semipermanent hair dyes

Semipermanent or direct colouring includes any product capable of affecting to some extent a change in the natural hair colour that will last through at least five shampoo washings. Semipermanent dyes are simple and easy to use, as opposed to oxidation dyes, and are normally formulated for application on nonbleached hair. Following increases in supply of such formulations, we have started an analysis for quality control purposes of 21 commonly marketed dyestuffs (nitroaminobenzenes, anthraquinone and Arianor dyes) and 20 colouring products manufactured by four leading companies. By using TLC (silica gel and reversed phase) and HPTLC (silica gel) procedures we have determined relative retention values to 1,3-diamino-4-nitrobenzene of standards and dyes found in the commercial products. All the values reported (standards and samples) are the average of five analytical results (+/-SD).     

In vivo procedures for assessment of hair greasiness

Greasy hair is a common problem in Europe. The first step in developing anti-grease hair products must be to establish a sensitive protocol for measuring any changes in perceived hair greasiness.
Sensitive clinical trials and in vivo evaluation methods of determining hair greasiness have been developed that show significant differences in the perceived hair greasiness following the use of different shampoos.
Products tested in two clinical trials for efficacy as anti-grease shampoos were an anti-grease shampoo containing 2% 3,4-thiolanediol as the active ingredient, and a baby shampoo based on mild surfactants. The same placebo shampoo based on ether sulphates used in typical European shampoo formulations was used in both tests. A shampoo containing 2% zinc pyrithione was included in the trials as a control, since there were indications that this would increase the amount of hair greasiness.
Neither of the test products were shown to be effective anti-grease shampoos. The shampoo containing 2% zinc pyrithione was shown to produce significantly more greasiness than both the placebo and the test shampoos.
Since significant differences could be shown between the different shampoos, the protocol and in vivo evaluation techniques used in these clinical trials are considered to be validated.
Méthodes in vivo d'évaluation du graissage des cheveux     

The hair eclipse phenomenon: sharpening the focus on the hair cycle chronobiology

Chronobiology governing the hair cycle is a fascinating and complex process. Both the hair growth cycle and the hair shaft growth are coordinated and depend on the interplay of different biological signals and various exogenous stimuli. A latency period may occur between hair shedding (teloptosis, exogen phase) and the early emergence of the next anagen VI stage. This lag time referred to on the hair eclipse phenomenon likely depends on the influence of a series of distinct synchronizers, and does not represent per se a peculiar hair cycle phase. It is the result of some dysregulations of the hair cycling, involving early teloptosis, delayed anagen I initiation or stunted hair growth at any stage between the anagen I and anagen V phases. As such, the hair eclipse phenomenon may be an erratic process occurring in physiopathological conditions affecting hair follicles singly or in focal to generalized patterns. It may be more frequent when it follows synchronized teloptosis occurring in telogen effluvium (newborn alopecia, post-partum alopecia, seasonal alopecia and alopecia areata). It may also be prominent when microinflammation is abutted on the permanent portion of the hair follicle as in dandruff, seborrhoeic dermatitis, androgenic alopecia and photoageing baldness. Local synchronizers such as growth factors and other mediators may eventually be lacking or involved in the hair eclipse phenomenon. Their identification and characterization might drive new corrective or preventive applications.     

How different is human hair? A critical appraisal of the reported differences in global hair fibre characteristics and properties towards defining a more relevant framework for hair type classification

This review critically appraises the reported differences in human hair fibre within three related domains of research: hair classification approaches, fibre characteristics and properties. The most common hair classification approach is based on geo-racial origin, defining three main groups: African, Asian and Caucasian hair. This classification does not account sufficiently for the worldwide hair diversity and intergroups variability in curl, shape, size and colour. A global classification into eight curl types has been proposed but may be too complex for reproducibility. Beyond that, hair cross-sectional shape and area have been found to have an inverse relation to curl: straighter fibres are circular with larger cross-sectional area, whilst the curlier fibres are elliptical with smaller cross-sectional area. These geometrical differences have been associated with bilateral vs homogenous distribution of cortical cell in curly vs straight hair respectively. However, there is no sufficient data demonstrating significant differences in hair amino composition, but proteomic studies are reporting associations of some proteins with curly hair. Eumelanin’s relative abundance has been reported in all hair colours except for red hair which has a high pheomelanin content. Higher tensile and fatigue strength of straight hair are reported, however, curly hair fragility is attributed to knotting, and crack and flow formations rather than the structural variations. African hair has been found to have the highest level of lipids, whilst the water sorption of Caucasian hair is the highest, and that of Asian hair the lowest. Not all comparative studies clearly report their hair sampling approaches. Therefore, to strengthen the robustness of comparative studies and to facilitate cross-study data comparisons, it is recommended that the following hair defining characteristics are reported in studies: hair cross sectional diameter/area, curl type, hair assembly colour, as well as where possible donor data (age/gender) and sample pooling approach.     

Physical characterization of the hair of Mexican women

Hairs collected from 257 Mexican women, residing in Mexico City, were characterized by instrumental measurements for comparison to more‐commonly reported Caucasian, Asian and African hairs. Subjects were subdivided into five age groups and their hairs were characterized by fibre dimension, shape and tensile strength. Results show that Mexican hair appears to be intermediate of Asian and Caucasian hair in diameter and cross‐sectional ellipticity. Such findings seem in line with the early and late ethnic origins of Mexican people. Results also illustrate and confirm the large intra‐ and inter‐individual variability within any single hair property. Unexpectedly high levels of hair tensile damage were sometimes encountered.     

Advanced analysis of metal distributions in human hair

A variety of techniques (secondary electron microscopy with energy dispersive X-ray analysis, time-of-flight--secondary ion mass spectrometry, and synchrotron X-ray fluorescence) were utilized to distinguish metal contamination occurring in hair arising from endogenous uptake from an individual exposed to a polluted environment, in this case a lead smelter. Evidence was sought for elements less affected by contamination and potentially indicative of biogenic activity. The unique combination of surface sensitivity, spatial resolution, and detection limits used here has provided new insight regarding hair analysis. Metals such as Ca, Fe, and Pb appeared to have little representative value of endogenous uptake and were mainly due to contamination. Cu and Zn, however, demonstrate behaviors worthy of further investigation into relating hair concentrations to endogenous function.     

Investigating hair properties relevant for hair 'handle'. Part I: hair diameter, bending and frictional properties

The expert working group 'Hair Care Products' of the DGK currently conducts a wide study to contribute to the understanding of how single hair fibre and hair collective properties contribute towards hair 'handle' and 'feel'. During the first stage of this study four hair types were selected from a large group of individual European hair braids, according to either similar or widely different panel ratings for handle. Against the background of the panel test and the state of the literature the working group readily identified the bending properties of single fibres interacting in the tress as a fibre collective and fibre friction as being of central relevance for hair 'handle' and 'feel'. Fibre diameters of the hair types were determined by Optical Fibre Diameter Analyzer and by weighing. From these data mean ellipticity and bending stiffness distributions were calculated. Single fibre friction was determined by the capstan method in the root, middle and tip regions. Significant differences were determined between the hair types in diameters, ellipticity, bending stiffness and friction. The results lead to conclude that 'handle' is perceived as inferior when the hair is thick and bending stiffness thus high. For such hair differences in handle rating are related to differences in friction, namely in the tip region. For thin and thus 'soft' hair fibre friction seems to play only a minor role.     

The biology of hair diversity

Hair diversity, its style, colour, shape and growth pattern is one of our most defining characteristics. The natural versus temporary style is influenced by what happens to our hair during our lifetime, such as genetic hair loss, sudden hair shedding, greying and pathological hair loss in the various forms of alopecia because of genetics, illness or medication. Despite the size and global value of the hair care market, our knowledge of what controls the innate and within‐lifetime characteristics of hair diversity remains poorly understood. In the last decade, drivers of knowledge have moved into the arena of genetics where hair traits are obvious and measurable and genetic polymorphisms are being found that raise valuable questions about the biology of hair growth. The recent discovery that the gene for trichohyalin contributes to hair shape comes as no surprise to the hair biologists who have believed for 100 years that hair shape is linked to the structure and function of the inner root sheath. Further conundrums awaiting elucidation include the polymorphisms in the androgen receptor (AR) described in male pattern alopecia whose location on the X chromosome places this genetic contributor into the female line. The genetics of female hair loss is less clear with polymorphisms in the AR not associated with female pattern hair loss. Lifestyle choices are also implicated in hair diversity. Greying, which also has a strong genetic component, is often suggested to have a lifestyle (stress) influence and hair follicle melanocytes show declining antioxidant protection with age and lowered resistance to stress. It is likely that hair research will undergo a renaissance on the back of the rising information from genetic studies as well as the latest contributions from the field of epigenetics.     

Investigating the relationship between the hair fiber proteome and hair quality

Many hair characteristics (e.g. color and curl) are genetically determined. Here, we investigated whether hair quality is also genetically controlled and related to differences in hair composition. Female, Caucasian subjects ( n  = 292) were recruited into this study and segmented by self-perceived hair quality and by permanent colorant usage. Hair fibers were collected and characterized by amino acid analysis, dry tensile elastic modulus testing and two-dimensional electrophoresis of hair protein extracts.
Protein analysis revealed a string of 66 kDa proteins that correlated with hair of high quality. Loss of low molecular weight (14–29 kDa) proteins increased with colorant usage, particularly in hair of low quality. Amino acid analysis showed that the levels of serine and threonine across all the subjects followed bimodal frequency distributions suggestive of a genetic influence. Overall, data suggested that perception of quality was linked to high serine and threonine levels. In addition, where hair was colored, quality was associated with lower cysteic acid levels. Lower cysteic acid levels were not linked to lower colorant usage and our data suggest that high quality hair may be more resistant to colorant damage. Elastic modulus was significantly higher in hair of higher quality (4.65 GPa) compared to all medium and low quality hair combined (4.3 GPa), P  < 0.02. This suggests a link between altered hair composition and mechanical properties. In conclusion, the composition and mechanical properties of hair have been linked to hair quality. We hypothesize that hair quality is thus likely to be genetically determined. Understanding of the links between hair composition and its properties could be utilized in the future for designing products targeted to each individual's hair make-up, and for producing diagnostic tools for determining hair quality.     

An overview of chemical straightening of human hair: technical aspects,potential risks to hair fibre and health and legal issues

Personal image, as it relates to external beauty, has attracted much attention from the cosmetic industry, and capillary aesthetics is a leader in consumption in this area. There is a great diversity of products targeting both the treatment and beautification of hair. Among them, hair straighteners stand out with a high demand by costumers aiming at beauty, social acceptance and ease of daily hair maintenance. However, this kind of treatment affects the chemical structure of keratin and of the hair fibre, bringing up some safety concerns. Moreover, the development of hair is a dynamic and cyclic process, where the duration of growth cycles depends not only on where hair grows, but also on issues such as the individual's age, dietary habits and hormonal factors. Thus, although hair fibres are composed of dead epidermal cells, when they emerge from the scalp, there is a huge variation in natural wave and the response to hair cosmetics. Although it is possible to give the hair a cosmetically favourable appearance through the use of cosmetic products, for good results in any hair treatment, it is essential to understand the mechanisms of the process. Important information, such as the composition and structure of the hair fibres, and the composition of products and techniques available for hair straightening, must be taken into account so that the straightening process can be designed appropriately, avoiding undesirable side effects for hair fibre and for health. This review aims to address the morphology, chemical composition and molecular structure of hair fibres, as well as the products and techniques used for chemical hair relaxing, their potential risk to hair fibre and to health and the legal aspects of their use.     

Application of high-performance liquid chromatography in the analysis of direct dyes in semipermanent hair colouring cosmetics

A method for the identification and the quantification of direct dyes in semipermanent hair colouring cosmetics by using a reversed phase high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) with gradient elution and diode array detector (DAD) detection is presented. A standard mixture of 18 commonly marketed dyestuffs (11 nitroderivatives, two anthraquinones and five Arianor dyes) was studied. The major problems in the analysis of the mixture of direct dyes is the different chemical structure and especially the wide range of polarities. However we succeeded in the complete separation of the standard dyes. A qualitative analysis of eight colouring commercial products selected from different shades and a quantitative analysis of three of them was carried out. Materials, methods and results are reported.     

Grey hair: clinical investigation into changes in hair fibres with loss of pigmentation in a photoprotected population

Loss of pigmentation in hair fibres is one of the most obvious phenotypic changes with ageing and has been a topic of increasing interest in the study of follicle biology. The onset of greying brings cosmetic complaints that grey fibres are wild or difficult to manage. Of course, these perceptions may be the consequence of visual obviousness rather than underlying physical or chemical differences. Although several studies have compared pigmented and unpigmented fibres, few have tried to control genetic and ethnic difference as well as extrinsic factors such as photoexposure and chemical treatment. We have recruited subjects with salt-and-pepper hair from a population of Old Order Mennonites who, for cultural reasons, are not only prohibited from chemically treating their hair but also limit their exposure to sunlight. Hair samples were examined for elemental composition, surface energy, Young's modulus, break stress, bending modulus, shear modulus and water sorption/desorption isotherm. The parameters were evaluated statistically for global differences, individual differences and typical individual differences. Consistent with previous published literature, few global differences were found between pigmented and unpigmented hair across the population. We do find that many individual subjects had differences between pigmented and unpigmented fibres. These differences tend to be more pronounced in bulk than in surface properties. The small differences in mechanical properties and moisture uptake and loss lend support to the perception by consumers that grey hair is wilder, drier and less manageable.     

Fluorescence and coloration of grey hair

Grey hair samples were collected from 11 individuals and separated into un‐pigmented and pigmented fibres (International Hair Importers). Fluorescence measurements were obtained by using a double‐grating fluorescence spectrophotometer and a bifurcated fibre optics accessory to measure the spectra directly from the surface of hair at various distances from the fibre root. Colour measurements were carried out by using a Hunter colorimeter. The fluorescence spectra of un‐pigmented hair obtained by the excitation at 290 nm show a peak at 356 nm [tryptophan (Trp)], and multi‐peak emissions in the range from 395 to 500 nm. A significant variation in the Trp emission intensity at 356 nm vs. the intensity of emission in the 395–500 nm range was observed for hair collected from various individuals with yellow coloured hair producing stronger relative emission in 395–500 nm range. Quantitative measurements of coloration and the calculation of the Yellowness Index (YI) showed linear correlation between YI and the ratio of fluorescence intensities I₄₄₀/I₃₅₆ The spectra obtained by excitation at 320 nm showed the emission peaks at 395 nm (unidentified), 420 nm (N‐formylkynurenine), 460 nm (kynurenine), and 495 nm (3‐hydroxykynurenine), which are the products of oxidative or metabolic conversion of tryptophan. Un‐pigmented, yellow hair showed a build‐up of the fluorescence band corresponding to 3‐hydroxykynurenine at 495 nm. The data also showed the fluorescence quenching effect of melanin resulting in the lowering of the fluorescence intensity of pigmented hair. The spectra obtained at various positions along the fibres demonstrated gradual photo‐decomposition of hair chromophores during their lifetimes. This was indicated by a decrease of Trp fluorescence intensity, which was relatively fast (8·10^?4–1.5·10^?3 [day^?1] as calculated for hair obtained from various individuals) for un‐pigmented hair and slower for pigmented hair. A decrease in Trp emission was accompanied by an increase in the yellow coloration toward the ends of un‐pigmented fibres.     

Causes of hair loss and the developments in hair rejuvenation

Hair is considered to be a major component of an individual's general appearance. The psychological impact of hair loss results in a measurably detrimental change in self-esteem and is associated with images of reduced worth. It is not surprising that both men and women find hair loss a stressful experience. Genetic hair loss is the major problem affecting men and by the age of 50, up to 50% will be affected. Initial attempts to regenerate the lost hair have centred on applying a topical solution of between 2% to 5% minoxidil; however, the results proved disappointing. Recently, finasteride, a type II 5α reductase inhibitor has been found to regrow a noticeable amount of hair in about 40% of balding men. Further developments in treatments have lead to the use of a dual type I and type II inhibitor where 90% of those treated regrow a noticeable amount of hair. In women the major cause of hair loss before the age of 50 is nutritional, with 30% affected. Increased and persistent hair shedding (chronic telogen effluvium) and reduced hair volume are the principle changes occurring. The main cause appears to be depleted iron stores, compromised by a suboptimal intake of the essential amino acid l -lysine. Correction of these imbalances stops the excessive hair loss and returns the hair back to its former glory. However, it can take many months to redress the situation.     

Role of melanin and artificial hair color in preventing photo-oxidative damage to hair

This research is a multifaceted study which investigates not only the role of melanin in providing photostability to natural hair color and hair proteins, but also the claim that the presence of specific artificial colors in hair slows down the rate of photodegradation of hair proteins. In earlier studies, the extractability of protein from photodegraded hair was investigated and showed that many of the cleaved proteins could not be extracted because of photo‐oxidative cross‐linking. The current study investigates the effect of the amount of melanin in hair of different ethnicity and the presence of artificial hair colors on the extractability of the main classes of hair proteins. Furthermore, the data are used in the interpretation of the effect of these components in being able to prevent photo‐oxidative damage to hair proteins. When exposed to sunlight, hair undergoes changes in chemical, mechanical and morphological properties. The UVB and UVA regions of the solar spectrum are the most damaging to human hair. Of these two, the UVA region is predominant in the solar spectrum at low altitudes. Hair of different ethnicity responds differently to the damaging radiation of the solar spectrum, because of different amounts of melanin present in hair. Melanin absorbs the impinging radiation (especially at the lower wavelengths (254–350 nm), and converts it by some complex internal mechanism into heat. Because of this, melanin provides a photochemical protection to natural hair color and hair proteins and prevents their photodegradation. However, the melanin pigments act sacrificially and become themselves degraded in the process of protecting the proteins from light. As a result, this «protective» effect of the melanin pigments does not last during long‐term intense exposure, when, regardless of the amount of melanin in hair, most matrix, intermediate filament and high molecular weight hair proteins undergo photo‐oxidative cross‐linking into higher molecular weight species, and their extractability from hair decreases significantly. The goal of this study is to demonstrate how UV‐radiation affects natural and artificial hair color during long‐term exposures. Bright‐field and UV‐microspectrophotometry and an electrophoretic separation technique (SDS‐PAGE) were chosen as investigative techniques for these studies, because they are well‐suited to accurately and reproducibly investigate the initial properties of a specific hair sample and the changes in these properties as a result of long‐term light‐exposure. The goal of this paper is not to relate this to the content and type of melanin in hair. Electrophoresis, while not measuring the exact quantitative amount of protein extracted, is a semi‐quantitative method, where increases in brightness of the bands represent increased amounts of proteins that were extracted of that specific protein from hair. This electrophoretic study attempts to determine whether the presence of natural or artificial color in hair influences the protein extractability in unaltered hair and the photo‐oxidative cross‐linking during light‐exposure. The bright‐field microspectrophotometric study showed that high concentrations of melanin provide protection to the melanin itself and that they prevent loss of natural hair color during light‐exposure. However, neither large amounts of melanin in hair of different ethnicity, nor artificial hair colors (even a dye with an absorption in the UV region) provide protection to the hair proteins against photodegradation under the conditions used in this study. UV‐microspectrophotometry has suggested the formation of high levels of photo‐oxidized proteins as a result of light‐exposure. Electrophoresis revealed photo‐oxidative cross‐linking of most matrix, intermediate filament and high molecular weight hair proteins into their higher molecular weight analogues, rendering them less extractable due to their lowered diffusivity. Only very low levels of low molecular weight matrix proteins could be extracted.     

Some aspects of hair regreasing

A multi-technique evaluation of the hair regreasing process is described. Preliminary experimentation in vitro was followed by a long-term in vivo study conducted on a single subject having greasy hair. First, a shampoo for very greasy hair and one for dry hair were applied to the left and right sides of the head respectively (split-head test) for 7 weeks; then a shampoo for greasy hair was applied to the entire head (whole-head test) for 5 weeks. Three parameters were studied: (1) hair spacing, determined by means of a special device; (2) regreasing of individual hairs, measured using the contact-reprint technique; (3) the amount of sebum extracted from individual hairs, performed by g.l.c. determination of squalene. Results obtained during the split-head period showed that the shampoo for very greasy hair showed higher average hair spacing, slower progression of regreasing, and better sebum-removal efficiency when compared to the shampoo for dry hair. During the whole-head test period with one shampoo, results showed that there was consistent asymmetry as regards hair spacing and progression of regreasing. These results support our hypothesis concerning the role of interfacial forces in the hair regreasing process. Différents aspects du regraissage des cheveux     

Spectrofluorescence of skin and hair

There are numerous chromophores present throughout the strata of human skin, which present many challenges and opportunities to probe molecular events. Fluorescence spectroscopy is principally employed to identify important biochemical components of the skin including endogenous tryptophan, tyrosine, pepsin-digestible collagen cross-links, collagenase-digestible collagen cross-links, NADH, etc. Over the last 15 years, many advances in instrument technology have been introduced allowing for much faster data acquisition with spectrofluorometers. As a result, a series of spectrofluorescence emission scans can be generated for a range of excitation wavelengths, or vice versa (excitation scans for a range of emission wavelengths), quickly to generate excitation-emission matrices. In this work, we constructed an endogenous fingerprint of fluorescent compounds present in skin, hair and nail tissues by employing a range of excitation wavelengths from 270 to 450 nm with a resolution of 2 nm. As a result, we generated surface plots of fluorescence emission as a function of excitation and emission wavelengths. From these data, we identified the predominant fluorescent chromophores in each tissue. We examined several sources of skin including in vivo human and ex vivo pig, sheep, goat and cow skin. We also analysed various types of mature hair characterized by the degree of melanin content. These analyses provided us with a fundamental understanding of the effects of melanin distribution in hair fibres and aided with the identification of fluorophores present in hair.     

Can plant‐derived phytochemicals provide symptom relief for hair loss? A critical review

It is known that hair growth disorders and hair loss can cause personal distress and affect well‐being. Whilst clinical conditions remain a target for medical research, current research on hair follicle biology and hair growth control mechanisms also provides opportunities for a range of non‐medical and cosmetic interventions that have a modulating effect on the scalp and follicle function. Furthermore, an improvement of the hair fibre characteristics (cuticle structure, cortex size and integrity) could add to the overall positive visual effect of the hair array. Since phytochemicals are a popular choice because of their traditional appeal, this review provides a critical evaluation of the available evidence of their activity for hair benefit, excluding data obtained from animal tests, and offers recommendations on improving study validity and the robustness of data collection in pre‐clinical and clinical studies.