Human digestion – a processing perspective

The human digestive system is reviewed in the context of a process with four major unit operations: oral processing to reduce particle size and produce a bolus; gastric processing to initiate chemical and enzymatic breakdown; small intestinal processing to break down macromolecules and absorb nutrients; and fermentation and water removal in the colon. Topics are highlighted about which we need to know more, including effects of aging and dentition on particle size in the bolus, effects of different patterns of food and beverage intake on nutrition, changes in saliva production and composition, mechanical effects of gastric processing, distribution of pH in the stomach, physicochemical and enzymatic effects on nutrient availability and uptake in the small intestine, and the composition, effects of and changes in the microbiota of the colon. Current topics of interest including food synergy, gut–brain interactions, nutritional phenotype and digestion in the elderly are considered. Finally, opportunities for food design based on an understanding of digestive processing are discussed. © 2015 Society of Chemical Industry     

Photoprotection in changing times – UV filter efficacy and safety,sensitization processes and regulatory aspects

As excessive sun exposure is tightly associated with different pathological changes of the skin, for example premature skin ageing or the development of skin cancer, an appropriate protection of the skin against UV radiation is of particular importance. Sun protection products and UV filter substances have evolved continuously in the past few decades. New developments and improved technical conditions of production have led to increasingly effective and efficient products with broadband protection ability. Accordingly, legal requirements have also changed and expanded. Although certain trends exist to harmonize the regulation of sunscreens at a global level, there are still large differences how UV absorbers are approved, which testing methods are prescribed, and which general requirements sun protection products must fulfil. Modern UV filters provide efficient protection against UVA and UVB radiation, are heat and photostable, user‐friendly, cost‐effective, water resistant and non‐toxic. As inorganic and organic UV filters are topically applied to the skin in relatively high concentrations (up to 25%), especially the assessment of their (photo)sensitization potential is of particular importance. Accordingly, skin sensitization is a key endpoint for the legally required safety assessment of cosmetic ingredients in Europe and many other countries. This review will summarize the current regulatory status of different approved UV filters, will describe their beneficial and adverse properties and will give an overview of how the efficacy of sunscreens can be evaluated. Finally, an insight into the basic mechanism of (photo)allergic reactions and existing skin sensitization test methods will be provided.     

Cosmetic efficacy claims in vitro using a three-dimensional human skin model

A tissue engineered human skin equivalent is successfully used for the testing of raw materials and cosmetic formulations. This reconstructed skin is supported by a collagen-glycosaminoglycan-chitosan biopolymer in which human keratinocytes and dermal fibroblasts were co-cultured to form a tissue that closely reproduces the in vivo architecture of normal human skin and takes into account the complex interactions between epidermis and dermis. On the other hand, dermal and epidermal responses can be assessed separately in the dermal or skin equivalent. The three-dimensional model has important advantages compared to monolayer cell cultures and epidermis models in efficacy testing: (i) the possibility of long-term cultivation with repeated application of cream formulations containing bioactives and (ii) the similarity to human skin concerning the interaction between dermis and epidermis. These similarities include the expression of keratinocyte differentiation markers such as cytokeratin 10, filaggrin and transglutaminase, as well as proteins of the basal lamina (laminin, collagen type IV) and extracellular matrix proteins such as elastin. The efficacy of selected bioactives was determined using different endpoints, for example, stimulation of collagen synthesis in the dermal and skin equivalents was shown in comparison to vitamin C as a positive control. On skin equivalents using immunofluorescence techniques we also demonstrated stimulation of the differentiation marker filaggrin, which is important for skin moisturization. The results could be used for claim substantiation, e.g. for the treatment of dry and aged skin.     

Age‐related changes in skin barrier function – Quantitative evaluation of 150 female subjects

The protection against water loss and the prevention of substances and bacteria penetrating into the body rank as the most important functions of the skin. This so‐called ‘skin barrier function’ is the natural frontier between the inner organism and the environment, and is primarily formed by the epidermis. An impairment of the skin barrier function is often found in diseased and damaged skin. An influence of ageing on skin barrier function is widely accepted, but has not been conclusively evaluated yet. Therefore, the aim of this clinical study was to assess the potential influence of ageing on skin barrier function, including transepidermal water loss (TEWL), stratum corneum hydration, sebum content and pH value. One hundred and fifty healthy women aged 18–80, divided into five age groups with 30 subjects each, were evaluated in this study. TEWL, hydration level, sebum secretion and pH value of hydro‐lipid acid film were measured with worldwide acknowledged biophysical measuring methods at cheek, neck, décolleté, volar forearm and dorsum of hand. Whereas TEWL and stratum corneum hydration showed only very low correlation with subject's age, the sebum production decreased significantly with age, resulting in the lowest skin surface lipids levels measured in subjects older than 70 years. The highest skin surface pH was measured in subjects between 50 and 60 years, whereas the eldest age group had the lowest mean pH. The dorsum of the hand was the location with the highest TEWL and lowest stratum corneum hydration in all age groups. The results show that only some parameters related to skin barrier function are influenced by ageing. Whereas sebum production decreases significantly over lifetime and skin surface pH is significantly increased in menopausal woman, TEWL and stratum corneum hydration show only minor variations with ageing.     

Naturally occurring ω‐Hydroxyacids

ω‐Hydroxyacids are fatty acids bearing a hydroxyl group on the terminal carbon. They are found in mammals and higher plants and are often involved in providing a permeability barrier, the primary purpose of which is to reduce water loss. Some ω‐hydroxyacid derivatives may be involved in waterproofing and signalling. The purpose of this review was to survey the known natural sources of ω‐hydroxyacids. ω‐Hydroxyacids are produced by two different P450‐dependent mechanisms. The longer (30–34 carbons) ω‐hydroxyacids are produced by chain extension from palmitic acid until the chain extends across the membrane in which the extension is taking place, and then the terminal carbon is hydroxylated. Shorter fatty acids can be hydroxylated directly to produce C16 and C18 ω‐hydroxyacids found in plants and 20‐eicosatetraenoic acid (20‐HETE) by a different P450. The C16 and C18 ω‐hydroxyacids are components of polymers in plants. The long‐chain ω‐hydroxyacids are found in epidermal sphingolipids, in giant‐ring lactones from the sebum of members of the equidae, as a component of meibum and in carnauba wax and wool wax.     

Nanoemulsion: process selection and application in cosmetics – a review

In recent decades, considerable and continuous growth in consumer demand in the cosmetics field has spurred the development of sophisticated formulations, aiming at high performance, attractive appearance, sensorial benefit and safety. Yet despite increasing demand from consumers, the formulator faces certain restrictions regarding the optimum equilibrium between the active compound concentration and the formulation base taking into account the nature of the skin structure, mainly concerning to the ideal penetration of the active compound, due to the natural skin barrier. Emulsion is a mixture of two immiscible phases, and the interest in nanoscale emulsion has been growing considerably in recent decades due to its specific attributes such as high stability, attractive appearance and drug delivery properties; therefore, performance is expected to improve using a lipid‐based nanocarrier. Nanoemulsions are generated by different approaches: the so‐called high‐energy and low‐energy methods. The global overview of these mechanisms and different alternatives for each method are presented in this paper, along with their benefits and drawbacks. As a cosmetics formulation is reflected in product delivery to consumers, nanoemulsion development with prospects for large‐scale production is one of the key attributes in the method selection process. Thus, the aim of this review was to highlight the main high‐ and low‐energy methods applicable in cosmetics and dermatological product development, their specificities, recent research on these methods in the cosmetics and consideration for the process selection optimization. The specific process with regard to inorganic nanoparticles, polymer nanoparticles and nanocapsule formulation is not considered in this paper.     

Hexamidine salts – applications in skin health and personal care products

Hexamidine (HEX) has been used as a preservative in topical preparations since the 1950s. A number of studies also indicate that the molecule plays a beneficial role in skin homoeostasis. In this review, we describe the physicochemical properties of hexamidine diisethionate (HEX D) and the corresponding hydrochloride salt (HEX H). The biocidal and protease inhibition properties of HEX are outlined as well as the effects of HEX on lipid processing enzymes, corneocyte maturity, stratum corneum thickness and transepidermal water loss (TEWL). Skin permeation properties of HEX D and HEX H are summarized, and formulation approaches for effective dermal targeting of HEX are discussed.     

An updated review of clinical methods in the assessment of ageing skin – New perspectives and evaluation for claims support

With the advancement of skin research, today's consumer has increased access to an informed understanding of ageing skin and its appendages, together with a plethora of targeted products to meet such needs. In recent years, increased legislative demands for quality evidential claims support have led not only to the development and validation of clinical methods to measure and quantify ageing skin, but also a clearer understanding of the skin ageing process–especially the impact of both its internal and external environments–as well as a tougher stance on clearly unjustifiable claims. Traditional testing methods used to research and evaluate anti‐ageing products claim to employ sophisticated instruments. Today, however, since the term anti‐ageing can be considered a misnomer, intelligent use of combined more advanced clinical methods has enabled the development of technologically improved consumer products providing enhanced efficacy and targeted performance. Non‐invasive methods for the assessment and quantification of the causes of ageing skin provide tools to the clinical researcher as defined by key clinically observed ageing parameters. Where evidence requires additional support, a number of clinical procedures evaluating ageing skin and hair products are combined with invasive procedures, thus enabling an added value to product claims. As discussed herein, given the enhanced understanding of ageing, we provide an update to our previous reviews of clinical methods used in the assessment of skin ageing, to include the wider aspects of environmental exposure; skin pigmentation; microbiome disturbance; surface topography; colour, radiance, and pH; and structural integrity–all requiring a disciplined approach to their use in dermatological investigations and product claims evidence.     

Common wheat (Triticum aestivum L.) and its use as a brewing cereal – a review

Wheat (Triticum aestivum L.) has a long tradition as a raw material for the production of malt and beer. Nevertheless, it has been studied to a much lesser extent than barley, which is the number one brewing cereal. The protein content of wheat ranges from about 6 to 20%, depending on the variety and baking characteristics, as well as on environmental conditions during growth. Since wheat is the most used cereal in the baking industry, the focus of wheat breeding and research has been about optimization for baking purposes (i.e. high protein content, stable falling numbers, constant baking qualities). It is well known that wheat varieties with a high protein content lead to problems in the brewing process. Therefore, varieties with a low protein content and with low viscosity values are favoured for malting and brewing. Since wheat beer yield has nearly doubled from 1990 to 2009, and is still increasing, more focus has been placed on conducting research on wheat for the malting and brewing industry. Currently, every tenth beer sold in Germany is a wheat beer. Therefore, it is of major interest to screen wheat varieties for brewing processability and to give more focus to wheat as a brewing cereal. In this review, a detailed characterization of wheat is given, particularly in regard to carbohydrates, pentosans, protein fractions and enzymes. The impact of wheat and its quality on the malting and brewing process is reviewed. Copyright © 2014 The Institute of Brewing & Distilling     

Exposure to acute electromagnetic radiation of mobile phone exposure range alters transiently skin homeostasis of a model of pigmented reconstructed epidermis

Exposure to electromagnetic radiations (EMR) produced by mobile phone concerns half the world's population and raises the problem of their impact on human health. In this study, we looked at the effects of mobile phone exposure (GSM basic, 900 MHz, SAR 2 mW g^?1, 6 h) on a model of pigmented skin. We have analysed the expression and localization of various markers of keratinocyte and melanocyte differentiation 2, 6, 18 and 24 h after EMR exposure of reconstructed epidermis containing either only keratinocytes or a combination of keratinocytes and melanocytes grown on dead de‐epidermized dermis, using histology, immunohistochemistry and Western blot. No changes were found in epidermal architecture, localization of epidermal markers, presence of apoptotic cells and the induction of p53 in both types of epidermis (with or without melanocytes) after exposure to EMR. In pigmented reconstructs, no change in the location and dendricity of melanocytes and in melanin transfer to neighbouring keratinocytes was detected after EMR exposure. Loricrin, cytokeratin 14 were significantly decreased at 6 h. The level of all markers increased at 24 h as compared to 6 h post‐EMR exposure, associated with a significant decrease of the 20S proteasome activity. Our data indicate that exposure to 900 MHz frequency induces a transient alteration of epidermal homoeostasis, which may alter the protective capacity of the skin against external factors. Presence or absence of melanocytes did not modify the behaviour of reconstructs after EMR exposure.     

Digestibility and allergenicity assessment of enzymatically crosslinked β‐casein

Crosslinking enzymes are frequently used in bioprocessing of dairy products. The aim of this study was to examine the effects of enzymatic crosslinking on IgE binding, allergenicity and digestion stability of β‐casein (CN). β‐CN was crosslinked by transglutaminase, tyrosinase, mushroom tyrosinase/caffeic acid and laccase/caffeic acid. The IgE binding to β‐CN was compared in vitro by CAP inhibition assay, ELISA inhibition as well as ex vivo by basophil activation assay. Crosslinked CNs were digested by simulated gastric fluid for 15 and 60 min and obtained digests analyzed for their ability to inhibit IgE binding by CAP inhibition assay and SDS‐PAGE. The ability of crosslinked CNs to activate basophils was significantly reduced in seven patients in the case of CN crosslinked by laccase and moderately reduced in the case of tyrosinase/caffeic acid crosslinked CN (in two cow's milk allergy patients tested with different allergen concentrations). The response to various crosslinked CNs differed individually among patients' sera tested by ELISA inhibition assay. The presence of caffeic acid hampered digestion by pepsin, and this effect was most pronounced for the tyrosinase/caffeic acid crosslinked CN. The laccase/caffeic acid and mushroom tyrosinase/caffeic acid had the highest potential in mitigating IgE binding and allergenicity of the β‐CN out of all investigated enzymes. The presence of a small phenolic compound also increased digestion stability of β‐CN.     

Whitening effect of α‐bisabolol in Asian women subjects

Although skin pigmentation, which results from the production and distribution of melanin in the epidermis, is the major physiological defence against solar irradiation, hyperpigmentation is a common and distressing problem caused by various inflammatory skin disorders, such as eczema, allergic contact dermatitis and irritant contact dermatitis. We evaluated the effects of a preparation containing α‐bisabolol on pigmented skin of a group of subjects. The effectiveness of the active compound, α‐bisabolol, in a base‐cream preparation for the treatment of pigmented skin was tested on 28 female subjects as follows: the cream was applied once a day to the back for 8 weeks. These same women also applied a vehicle control cream to the pigmented skin. The results were evaluated by clinical and biophysical test methods. After 8 weeks of treatment of the α‐bisabolol‐containing cream, there was significant lightening effect in the pigmented skin for the majority of the subjects who tested the cream.     

Berry pomace – a review of processing and chemical analysis of its polyphenols

This article gives an overview on the work available on methods for berry pomace processing, on methods for polyphenol extraction and on methods for polyphenol analysis. Additionally, previous reviews on fruit pomace have been identified and categorised with respect to pomace origin, and the scientific focus of the work. Data on berry pomace proximate composition are compiled, as are methods applied for processing and stabilising pomace. The article also discusses how processing methods influence juice and pomace yield, the transfer of value compounds from the fruit to either juice or pomace and the techno‐functional properties of the pomace. Methods for polyphenol extraction are summarised and interpreted, and the state‐of‐the‐art methods for polyphenol analysis are presented in line with respective sample preparation procedures. Knowledge gaps that were identified strongly indicate that systematic work has to be done to make berry pomace available as a valuable plant‐based ingredient for processed foods.