Fatty acid sulphoalkyl amides and esters as cosmetic surfactants

A review is given of the manufacture, properties and applications of the anionic surfactants commonly known as taurates and isethionates (fatty acid sulphoalkyl amides and esters, respectively). Originally developed in the 1930s for textile processing, these surfactants are used increasingly in the cosmetic field, particularly those derived from coconut fatty acid. Both types are produced from sodium isethionate, HO°C₂H₄SO₃Na. The acyl isethionate, R°COO°C₂H₄SO₃Na, is obtained by reaction with a fatty acid (‘direct process’). or fatty acid chloride (‘indirect process’). The direct process is cheaper but requires extreme conditions which can lead to discoloration of the product and a loss of shorter chain fatty acid components. The N-methyl-N-acyltaurate, R°CON(R¹)C₂H₄SO₃Na, is obtained by Schotten-Baumann reaction of a fatty acid chloride with N-methyltaurine, which is derived from sodium isethionate via methylamine. Taurates and isethionates retain the benefits of the soaps to which they are structurally similar, but chemical modifications have eliminated many undesirable features. Thus they combine good detergency and wetting with high foaming, and maintain their performance in hard or salt water. Taurates are stable to hydrolysis over the whole pH range. Isethionates are prone to hydrolysis at high (>8) or low (<5) pH, but this does not normally present a problem in cosmetic formulations. Above all, these surfactants are characterized by their extreme mildness to skin. Syndet and syndet/soap bars based on isethionate can be formulated at neutral pH (‘Dove type’bars) instead of the alkaline pH of soap, and have been shown in various studies to be milder than soap and better tolerated by the young, the old and those with sensitive skins. Similarly, isethionates have been shown to be less irritating than other anionic or amphoteric surfactants used in cosmetics. The difference has been related to the negligible effect of isethionate on the water-binding capacity of stratum corneum. Other cosmetic applications besides toilet bars include shampoos (excellent cleaning, mild to scalp, some hair conditioning effects), liquid soaps (mild for all-over body use), bubble baths (copious stable foam, efficient lime soap dispersal, low irritancy), skin creams and lotions (emulsification, alleviation of ‘dry skin’), baby care products (ultra-mild cleansing bars and milks, impregnated baby wipes) and oral products (foaming agents with low toxicity for toothpastes and mouthwashes).     

含聚氧乙烯链季铵盐阳离子表面活性剂对阴离子染料染色的影响

选择了几种聚氧乙烯型季铵盐阳离子表面活性剂，探讨了这些表面活性剂与酸性染料的相互作用以及对染料染色性能的影响.结果表明，含聚氧乙烯链阳离子表面活性剂能降低酸性染料的初始上染速率，并具有较好的移染性，可开发为匀染剂.为新型表面活性剂的应用和新型染色助剂的开发提供了理论依据。     

磷酸酯型表面活性剂在染整工业中的应用

介绍了磷酸酯型表面活性剂特性、五氧化二磷与脂肪醇合成反应的一般工艺条件和不同分子结构对产品性能的影响.在染整工业中作为耐碱渗透剂、精练剂、丝光渗透剂,抗静电剂以及洗涤剂、阻燃剂已得到了广泛的使用.随着有机合成、表面化技术的进步,磷酸酯表面活性剂在染整工业中,应用必将日益扩大.     

阳离子表面活性剂在羊毛纤维上吸附的计量置换模型研究

对于有关文献报道的常温下阳离子表面活性剂在羊毛纤维上吸附的实验数据，用液/固吸附计量置换模型（SDM-A）研究了线性吸附参数βα和解吸参数q/z。由这些线性参数不仅成功地解释了加盐效应及碳氢链长对于吸附性质的影响事实，而且依据SDM-A的热力学计算出不同吸附体系的吸附亲和能、解吸能及置换吸附总过程的自由能，以便认识吸附机理的细节。     

非离子表面活性剂对合成活性染料印花增稠剂性能的影响

阐述了合成活性染料印花增稠剂耐电解质性能较差和织物印制手感较硬而影响它在活性染料印花工艺中的应用.讨论了非离子表面活性剂对合成活性染料印花增稠剂性能的影响.通过非离子表面活性剂对增稠剂的改性,提高了合成增稠剂的耐电解质性能,使其具有稳定的粘度、较好的流变性、清晰的印花效果和较高的脱糊率.     

Food safety considerations and research priorities for the cultured meat and seafood industry

Cell-cultured meat and seafood offer a sustainable opportunity to meet the world's increasing demand for protein in a climate-changed world. A responsible, data-driven approach to assess and demonstrate safety of cell-cultured meat and seafood can support consumer acceptance and help fully realize the potential of these products. As an initial step toward a thorough demonstration of safety, this review identifies hazards that could be introduced during manufacturing, evaluates applicability of existing safety assessment approaches, and highlights research priorities that could support safe commercialization. Input was gathered from members of the cultured meat and seafood industry, researchers, regulators, and food safety experts. A series of workshops were held with 87 industry representatives and researchers to create a modular manufacturing process diagram, which served as a framework to identify potential chemical and biological hazards along the steps of the manufacturing process that could affect the safety of a final food product. Interviews and feedback on draft documents validated the process diagram and supported hazard identification and evaluation of applicable safety methods. Most hazards are not expected to be novel; therefore, safety assessment methods from a range of fields, such as conventional and novel foods, foods produced from biotechnology, pharmaceuticals, and so forth, are likely to be applicable. However, additional assessment of novel inputs or products with significant differences from existing foods may be necessary. Further research on the safety of the inputs and associated residues, potential for contamination, and development of standardized safety assessment approaches (particularly animal-free methods) is recommended.     

阳离子施胶增效剂的合成及应用

以丙烯酸甲酯、苯乙烯、丙烯酰胺、阳离子单体等为主要原料,采用无皂乳液聚合法合成了系列阳离子乳液,详细研究了聚合反应条件对其性能的影响,并与阴离子分散石油树脂胶分别对麦草浆和木浆进行协同施胶实验.结果表明,在乳液用量为0.2%(对绝干浆料)时,麦草浆纸页施胶度增幅可达33%,白度增加5.2%ISO;木浆纸页施胶度增幅可达37%,白度增加4.2%ISO.     

New association of surfactants for the production of food and cosmetic nanoemulsions: preliminary development and characterization

A new nanoemulsifing system has been developed. This study refers to an innovative association of polysorbate 80 and palmitic ester of l-ascorbic acid for the production of good stability and very thin nanostructured emulsions with average micellar diameter size ranging from 100 to 300 nm. This system has showed to be very performing to create nanoemulsions with moderate stirring rate and warming regimen thanks to the high efficiency of the association between ascorbyl palmitate and polysorbate-80 (PS-80). This nanoemulsified system is very easy to achieve and shows a very good capability to encapsulate several substrates of both nutritional and cosmetic usage such as melatonin, resveratrol, essential oils and steroidic terpenes such as boswellic acids and others. This system has been optimally applied to nutraceutical and cosmetic formulations and particularly to develop sprayable sublingual delivery systems for melatonin and the aforesaid molecules. This study describes developing and analytical characterization of this system containing melatonin.     

Optimization of the method of the content‐containing interaction evaluation for cosmetic products by gas chromatography–mass spectrometry

In July 2013, the European Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 came into effect in order to secure cosmetic products. The content‐containing interaction between the packaging and the product must be considered for the safety assessment. Indeed, some compounds are able to migrate from the packaging to the product and may be harmful to the consumer health. This is why a first test was established by EXPERTOX laboratory in 2012 to deal with this new regulation. A new analytical method was developed and validated for the quantification of 23 substances able to migrate from the packaging to the product. It was applied on a plastic packaging with the five simulants of migration. To evaluate the content‐containing interaction, a gas chromatography‐mass spectrometry method was developed and validated. Liquid–liquid extraction was used to extract contaminants (thirteen phthalates and ten substances of very high concern) from migration simulants. Calibration curves showed good linearity regression from 2 to 50 μg mL^?1 for nineteen molecules and from 5 to 45 μg mL^?1 for the others. The limits of quantification were respectively 2 and 5 μg mL^?1. The accuracy, precision, repeatability of the analytical method and extraction yields were acceptable. No molecule was found in simulants of migration, so the potential contaminants present in the packaging did not migrate. A gas chromatography‐mass spectrometry method and liquid‐liquid extraction were validated for 23 molecules and can be used for the evaluation of the content‐containing interaction of cosmetic products. Both quantification and extraction procedures are more robust and faster than previous method.     

Second hand smoke and risk assessment: what was in it for the tobacco industry?

OBJECTIVE: To describe how the tobacco industry attempted to trivialise the health risks of second hand smoke (SHS) by both questioning the science of risk assessment of low dose exposure to other environmental toxins, and by comparing SHS to such substances about which debate might still exist. METHODS: Analysis of tobacco industry documents made public as part of the settlement of litigation in the USA (Minnesota trial and the Master Settlement Agreement) and available on the internet. Search terms included: risk assessment, low dose exposure, and the names of key players and organisations. RESULTS/CONCLUSION: The tobacco industry developed a well coordinated, multi-pronged strategy to create doubt about research on exposure to SHS by trying to link it to the broader discussion of risk assessment of low doses of a number of toxins whose disease burden may still be a matter of scientific debate, thus trying to make SHS their equivalent; and by attempting, through third party organisations and persons, to impugn the agencies using risk assessment to establish SHS as a hazard.     

Isolation of elastin and collagen polypeptides from long cattle tendons as raw material for the cosmetic industry

Long cattle tendons were enzymatically disposed of lipoid and accompanying nitrogenous substances. Collagenous hydrolysate of average molecular mass M(a) = 0.830 +/- 1.206 kDa, suitable for application in skin and hair-care preparations, was obtained through hydrolysis by commercial protease (Bacillus subtilis) under mild conditions. Elastin, hydrolysable with greater difficulty, was subsequently hydrolysed by commercial endopeptidase (Bacillus licheniformis), under more drastic conditions, to a product of average molecular mass M(a) = 0.448 +/- 1.514 kDa. Purity of both hydrolysates was assessed by hydroxyproline and amide nitrogen contents. Aminosaccharides and glycosamino glycans in hydrolysates were not detected.     

食品中化学污染物风险评估研究进展

化学污染物是影响全球食品安全和危害人体健康的主要因素之一。对食品中化学污染物进行风险评估是保障食品安全、促进食品贸易和健全食品安全体系的重要手段。本文简要介绍了化学污染物风险评估的内容和基本方法,对国外化学污染物风险评估开展情况进行了概述,重点对国内开展的食品中化学污染物风险评估的研究进展进行综述,包括重金属、有机污染物、农药残留、黄曲霉毒素等,并对国内开展食品中化学污染物风险评估的方法进行了分析比较。重金属、农药残留和黄曲霉毒素方面的评估结果均表明:儿童的膳食暴露量偏高,需引起重视。此外提出目前我国食品中化学污染物风险评估中存在的主要问题和建议,为进一步开展化学污染物风险评估提供借鉴。     

白酒食品安全国家标准行业适用性评价研究

目的 对现行有效的白酒食品安全国家标准实施的科学性和实用性进行系统评价.方法 基于风险分析框架,采用问卷调查、企业走访、召开专家座谈会结合白酒食品安全风险监测与监督抽检数据分析,从标准的科学性、可行性和必要性三个维度对白酒食品安全国家标准的行业适用性进行系统评价.结果 绘制了白酒食品安全国家标准行业适用性评价雷达图.通...     

Towards a dietary-exposome assessment of chemicals in food: An update on the chronic health risks for the European consumer

Abstract

An informed opinion to a hugely important question, whether the food on the Europeans’ plate is safe to eat, is provided. Today, the Europeans face food-borne health risks from non-communicable diseases induced by excess body weight, outbreaks caused by pathogens, antimicrobial resistance and exposures to chemical contaminants. In this review, these risks are first put in an order of importance. Then, not only potentially injurious dietary chemicals are discussed but also beneficial factors of the food. This review can be regarded as an attempt towards a dietary-exposome evaluation of the chemicals, the average European adult consumers could chronically expose to during their life-times. Risk ranking reveals that currently the European adults are chronically exposed to a mixture of potentially genotoxic-carcinogenic contaminants, particularly food process contaminants, at the potential risk levels. Furthermore, several of the contaminants whose dietary exposures pose risks appear to be carcinogens operating with a genotoxic mode of action targeting the liver. This suggests that combined health risks from the exposure to a mixture of the chemical contaminants poses a greater potential risk than the risks assessed for single compounds. Over 100 European-level risk assessments are examined. Finally, the importance of a diversified and balanced diet is emphasized.     

用Budget方法评估食品防腐剂摄入量

分析了在Codex为了设定食品添加剂的使用标准而被应用的Budget 方法论,并提出了适用于中国人饮食情况的使用准则.在此基础上对苯甲酸及其钠盐、山梨酸及其钾盐、对羟基苯甲酸乙脂和双乙酸钠的国内理论最大摄入量进行了估算.其结果苯甲酸及其钠盐、对羟基苯甲酸乙脂、双乙酸钠的每日最大理论摄入量超过了ADI(acceptable daily intakes)值,而山梨酸及其钾盐的每日最大理论摄入量估算值低于ADI值,因此即使在允许使用的所有食品群里以目前使用标准使用山梨酸及其钾盐也不会造成危害.     

食品中蜡样芽孢杆菌的预测模型及风险评估

蜡样芽孢杆菌是引起食物中毒一种常见病源微生物,主要概述了蜡样芽孢杆菌生物学特性、预测模型及风险评估。     

Analysis of risk assessment and risk management processes in the derivation of maximum levels for environmental contaminants in food

Environmental contaminants originate from diverse sources and, owing to their ubiquitous presence in the environment, may appear in foods. Setting standards in food is increasingly important within the European Union and world-wide to protect consumers' health and to avoid trade barriers. This paper analyses how maximum levels for environmental contaminants in food were derived by the Codex Alimentarius Commission, by the European Union and by national authorities (USA, Germany). Both the risk assessment process (derivation of tolerable intake values and intake assessment by scientific bodies) and the risk management process (derivation of maximum levels by risk management bodies) are discussed. The various organizations show similar approaches and similar numerical values for maximum levels of the same contaminants in the same food items. In the area of decision-making for risk management, there was a noticeable lack of transparency in all the investigated systems. Recommendations are made for the development and harmonization of exposure assessment and communications between risk assessment and risk management processes, for improvements in documentation and for greater transparency within risk management decision-making processes.