不同面料拉链缝缩的灰色预测

为了探讨不同结构参数面料对拉链缝缩的影响和制约，本文选择了14种典型面料，对其基本结构参数进行测量，并将其与无纺衬布组合进行拉链缝缩实验，采用灰色关联的方法建立了面料结构参数与拉链缝缩率的关联度模型，并对其进行关联度大小的排序，得出影响拉链缝缩的主要因素依次为总紧度、纬向紧度、纬向密度。在此基础上，运用灰色预测的方法，建立了GM（0，N）灰色预测模型，通过验证其具有较好的可信度。通过研究以期更好地为优化拉链缝制工艺提供理论依据、为纺织品拉链加工提供一定的参考。     

棉织物悬垂性的灰色预测分析

探讨织物结构参数和力学性能对棉织物悬垂性能的影响.选择了15种典型棉织物,在试验的基础上,采用灰色关联方法,建立了棉织物结构参数和机械性能与悬垂系数的关联度模型,并对其进行排序,得出影响棉织物悬垂性能的最主要因素依次是单位面积质量、抗弯长度及表观厚度.在此基础上,运用灰色预测方法,建立了悬垂性GM(0,N)灰色预测模型,并验证其具有一定可信度.     

基于灰色模型的服装面料缝纫皱缩预测

对影响缝纫质量的重要指标——缝纫皱缩的预测方法进行探讨。选择16种典型面料,在FAST织物风格实验基础上,运用主成分分析法将面料的各项力学性能指标综合为3个主成分分量。通过缝纫实验,运用主客观方法评价织物缝纫后的外观质量,并借助于灰色模型研究以面料性能主成分分量为相关因素序列的缝纫皱缩预测模型,经检验,模型具有较好的精度。     

面料性能对服装缝纫质量的影响分析

测试了15种典型面料的主要力学性能指标,并按照不同角度进行了缝纫实验,获得了接缝强度、缝缩率、移位率3个缝纫质量评价指标.运用灰色关联分析研究了面料性能对缝纫质量影响的相关程度,并按照缝纫质量评价指标对各类面料进行了聚类分析.这一研究可以为服装企业选择面料和制定缝纫工艺提供数据依据,避免加工中可能出现的失误和浪费.     

面料性能对棉织物拉链缝纫缝缩率的影响

探讨了织物结构参数对棉织物拉链缝纫缝缩率的影响。选择15种典型棉织物对其基本结构参数进行测量,同时将其与普通无纺衬布组合进行拉链缝缩实验;利用灰色关联分析试验所得数据,按照关联度大小进行排序得到影响缝缩率因素的关联程度,并按照缝纫质量评价指标对各类面料进行聚类分析。     

面向服装面料自动缝合的缝纫工艺参数建模

为了解决缝纫中面料性能与缝纫加工工艺参数仅依靠技术工的经验完成匹配的问题，通过建立面料在缝纫过程中的多力场耦合模型智能选择缝纫加工工艺参数。以纬编织物为例，首先建立了织物单元的三维结构模型；其次分析了穿刺过程中织物组织与纱线间的抱合力对缝纫针的影响，并对面料在缝纫过程中的运动进行分析，创新性地建立了缝纫过程中基于面料力学性能的多力场耦合模型；然后建立了织物的有限元模型和缝纫针的几何模型，分析面料在缝纫过程中应力、应变的分布情况，得到面料在缝纫过程中因受外力作用而发生的形变并验证模型的正确性；最后搭建了协同自动缝纫实验平台进行实验验证数学多力场耦合模型的正确性。结果表明，该方法相比于工人凭借着经验完成缝纫可减少面料的形变和皱缩率，提高服装缝纫质量，为下一步服装面料自动缝合提供工艺参数，并为服装智能制造提供理论及技术参考。     

薄型丝织物缝纫缩皱研究

选用常用薄型丝织物进行经纬向缝纫实验,通过FAST风格仪及KES-F系统测试面料力学性能,建立回归模型,探讨了面料力学性能及缝纫参数对薄型丝织物缝纫缩皱的影响。     

数字化图书馆建设经费投入预测模型及其应用

为对江苏省数字化图书馆建设经费投入进行精确预测,根据灰色预测模型的建模机理,分析现有GM(1,1)模型存在的缺陷,提出一种优化该模型初始值的计算方法,并与优化的背景值结合构建一种优化GM(1,1)模型,利用其对江苏省图书馆科研建设经费投入进行了灰色预测建模。     

聚丙烯纤维混凝土强度冻融损失率灰色关联分析

利用灰色系统理论的灰色关联分析,在文献数据基础上,对影响聚丙烯纤维混凝土强度冻融损失率的4个主要参数（水灰比、纤维含量、粉煤灰含量、减水剂含量）的关联度大小进行分析,并利用灰色预测模型建立关于聚丙烯纤维混凝土强度冻融损失率GM（1,N）方程．结果表明：对聚丙烯纤维混凝土强度冻融损失率影响因素关系为水灰比〉减水剂含量〉粉煤灰含量〉纤维含量,可利用灰色关联分析的方法有效预测聚丙烯纤维混凝土强度冻融损失率．灰色预测模型GM（1,5）的冻融损失率的预测结果有较好精度．     

服装面料风格流行的灰色预测

运用关联度、灰色预测模型，预测精度分析等灰色系统理论，对精纺男西装面料风格流行进行预测，得出与专业机构及市场流行预测基本吻合的结论，即面料风格流行渐趋轻薄、柔软和良好的悬垂性，这说明灰色系统理论在面料风格行预测中具有一定的可行性。     

基于卷积神经网络的织物缝纫平整度客观评价

针对大多数评价织物缝纫平整度等级方法对实验条件均有较高的要求,且织物种类及环境等因素对实验结果均有较大影响的现状,提出利用卷积神经网络分析织物缝纫平整度等级的方法,以提高等级分类的准确率和效率。设计了一个基于残差卷积神经网络的织物缝纫平整度客观评价模型,该模型以1000个普通织物的缝纫图像作为训练样本输入,得到缝纫平整度的分类结果,所选织物包含10种常见服装面料品类(塔夫绸、塔斯隆、雪纺、顺纡绉、尼丝纺、麂皮绒、天丝斜纹、真丝缎面、平布、交织绸)。研究结果表明:经200个测试集样本的验证,该模型的评价准确率达96%,与智能化评价以及建立预测模型方法相比,利用卷积神经网络分析织物缝纫平整度等级的方法,具有较好的准确率,且具备获取样本图像流程简单、效率高的优势。     

Evaluating sewing thread consumption of jean pants using fuzzy and regression methods

This study focuses on the evaluation of sewing thread consumption of jean pants using the fuzzy logic theory. Referring to literature works, fuzzy logic method remains an accurate method that allows a new level of flexibility over traditional mathematical methods in defining and evaluating constraints. The application of fuzzy rules and fuzzy memberships is discussed and investigated. Using the influential parameters and optimized sewing conditions (suitable adjusted regulations of each input) such as thread composition, needle size and fabric weight, the results show that sigmoid membership gives better fitting of experimental results. Compared with the experimental consumptions, theoretical findings of the jean pant can be predicted in the desired field of interest. The results also indicate that the pant consumed thread remains influenced especially by the thread properties and the needle size as well. Compared with regression model, the fuzzy model gives a more accurate prediction and provides widely the amount of sewing thread than the regression model.     

织物性能及缝纫工艺对雪纺织物缝口强度的影响

选用服装厂常用的6种雪纺织物,测定其基本参数,采用正交试验方法,分析线迹密度、机针、缝纫线3种缝纫参数对缝口强度的影响及雪纺织物性能与缝口强度的相关性。试验结果表明：对于较薄的雪纺织物,缝口破坏形式为纱线滑脱,线迹密度的影响最为显著,缝口强度与线迹密度成负相关;对于较厚的雪纺织物,缝口破坏形式为缝纫线断裂,缝纫线的影响最为显著,缝口强度与线迹密度、缝纫线粗细成正相关;而机针对缝口强度的影响最小。     

An Investigation of the Penetration Force Profile of the Sewing Machine Needle Point

The distributions of the tangential and radial stresses acting on the yam of a fabric during sewing as the sewing needle is inserted into the fabric have been discussed by means of the mechanical principles of elasticity. The influence on the needle penetration force caused by the shape of the cross section and the profile curve at the needle point has also been investigated. It is suggested that five parameters. i.e., the mechanical properties of the textile material k, the variation ratio y' of the needle radius, the contacting arc length θ. the frictional coefficient μ and the sewing machine speed v are the main factors that determine the penetration force of the sewing needle. The variation ratio y', or the slope at any point of the needle profile, is the most important factor for needle design. Depending on the analysis of the forces acting on the needle surface, an optimum profile curve has been obtained. If this curve is used as a new sewing needle profile, the penetration force can possibly be reduced by up to 20%.     

Theoretical and experimental investigation of tensile properties of net warp-knitted spacer fabrics

Abstract

This work aimed to investigate the tensile behavior of net warp-knitted spacer fabrics using the experimental and theoretical approaches. Tensile behavior of the warp-knitted spacer fabrics is one of the fundamental parameters which rarely considered in the literature. Therefore, the net spacer fabrics were made with three different variables (fabric thickness, size of meshes, and the position of meshes of the outer layer with respect to each other) in order to study the effects of structural parameters on the tensile behavior. A 2D net-fabric which used for the outer fabrics was made for in-depth considerations and also the comparison between the 2D fabrics and spacer fabrics. The initial linear elastic modulus of the 2D fabrics and the initial linear elastic modulus of the spacer fabrics were selected for the assessment of the tensile characteristics. First, a mechanical model was developed based on the geometrical structures and material properties of the 2D fabrics using energy method and Castigliano’s theorem. Then, the effects of spacer yarns on the tensile behavior of spacer fabrics were taken into account. The latter model was proposed using the bending theory of a curved bar. Experimental data were compared with the values obtained from the theoretical approaches and the end results showed that the developed models can predict the modulus reasonably. Moreover, the results indicated that the tensile behavior of the spacer fabrics are independent of the position of the holes in the outer layer whilst the fabric thickness and size of meshes affect the tensile modulus.     

缝纫机器人对织物张力与位置的模糊阻抗控制

为解决缝纫机器人末端执行器在按压织物滑动前行和按压织物缝纫时需要保证织物不起褶皱且缝纫轨迹针脚均匀的问题,采用模糊阻抗控制方法对机器人末端位置以及机器人末端与织物接触力的同时控制。建立缝纫机器人实际缝纫系统模型,采取将机器人末端按压织物的力与按压位置进行力/位阻抗控制的策略,并根据模糊规则选取了缝纫系统最优阻抗参数。实验结果表明:模糊阻抗控制方法能够实现机器人操作织物的位置和机器人末端按压织物操作力之间的动态平衡,能够在保证机器人各关节平稳运动的基础上实现缝纫时接触力和位置的同时控制要求。     

Study on thermal and evaporative resistances of multilayered fabric ensembles

The present work deals with the study on thermal and evaporative resistance of multilayered fabric ensembles meant for cold weather applications. Three-layered structure is used to study the thermal comfort properties. Knitted fabric and polytetrafluoroethylene coated fabrics were used in inner and outer layer, respectively. Needle punched fabrics produced from polyester fibre were used in middle layer. Fifteen different non-woven fabrics were produced according to Box and Behnken experimental design for three variables and three levels by varying mass per unit area, punch density and depth of needle penetration. The produced fabrics were evaluated for thermal and evaporative resistances with and without inner and outer layer fabrics. Thickness, air permeability, bulk density and porosity of the needle punched fabrics were studied. The properties of the fabrics were analyzed for statistical significance by using ‘Design-Expert’ statistical software. Artificial neural network model was developed to predict the properties of fabrics and validation of model was done with the testing data-set. The performance of prediction was evaluated by mean square error, mean absolute error percentage and correlation coefficient. It was concluded that the predicted properties of fabric correlated well with the experimental results.     

面向柔性面料立体缝纫的随形机械手设计

针对服装制造业中柔性面料自动化立体缝纫加工难、加工质量稳定性差的问题,提出了一种适用于柔性面料自动化立体缝纫的随形机械手装置。首先分析了缝纫工艺,设计出一种随形机械手结构;其次对该结构进行位置、速度和加速度,以及机械手工作空间的分析;最后对该机械手结构进行力学分析和验证。结果表明：该结构形式的机械手可对袖口直径范围为200～260 mm的袖片具有自适应性,并可实现基于力反馈控制的自动撑紧功能,不会对面料产生损伤,该机械手还可实现自动调布功能,且单手指调节范围为-12.6～16.8 mm,相对误差为4.34%,最大误差值为0.7 mm,可满足实际的缝纫工艺需求。