染色羊绒织物后整理过程中的变色现象研究

对羊绒业常用的白绒、漂白绒和脱色绒3种原料的后整理色光变化现象进行研究.跟踪羊绒围巾的后整理工序,研究各种工艺因素对色光变化的影响.调整工艺参数,选择色光变化小的助剂,力求使产品在后整理过程中色光的变化控制在最小程度.研究结果表明,染色时加入增艳剂,可降低纤维的泛黄程度;染色后的固色处理显著提高了各项牢度指标;使用柔软剂的同时加入抗氧化剂可减轻黄变现象;烘干和蒸呢工序中严格控制温度,可明显改善织物的色光变化.     

棉/绒交织提花毛毯生产工艺

通过对棉/绒交织提花毛毯的工艺设计及工艺参数的研究,得出棉/绒交织提花毛毯的最优工艺路线和最优工艺参数。原料经纱为47.6 tex×2的纯棉纱;纬纱为长度28~30 mm、细度16.02μm的白色羊绒与长度22~24 mm,细度14.58μm驼色羊绒以60%与40%比例混纺。织物采用1/3破斜纹纬二重组织,经过染色、纺纱、织造、后整理工序制成成品。后整理工序的重点为起毛、缩呢及蒸呢加工工艺。     

羊毛/兔绒/羊绒提花面料工艺设计

为充分发挥羊毛纤维吸湿保暖、兔绒纤维蓬松滑糯、羊绒纤维弹性柔软的性能,开发一种羊毛/兔绒/羊绒提花面料。针对兔绒纤维可纺性差的问题,采用羊毛、兔绒、羊绒散纤维混纺方法,提升纤维抱合力。通过散毛染色、和毛、梳毛、细纱、络筒、蒸纱等工艺,设计纺纱上机参数,制得羊毛/兔绒/羊绒60/25/15混纺纱线。以1/3破斜纹纬二重组织为基础组织,设计织造工艺,织制正反面双色图案提花织物。后通过洗缩呢、起毛、蒸呢等方法,制得蓬松饱满,手感滑糯的羊毛/兔绒/羊绒提花面料,对纺织产品的设计开发具有参考意义。     

染色羊绒织物后整理过程中的变色现象分析

为研究染色羊绒织物在整理过程中的变色现象,文章以羊绒产品的后整理工序为研究对象,并对不同工艺因素对色光变化所产生的影响进行分析,实现染色羊绒织物整理中的变色可控水平提升.通过对染色羊绒织物整理过程中的工艺参数进行调整,利用色光变化相对较小的助剂,将变色现象降低到最低.通过实验分析方法的应用,在染色羊绒织物染色中,加入增...     

聚酯织物的雕印和防印

三、使用锡还原剂的雕印3.印花工艺所谓雕印,即在染色织物上印上雕印色浆。无论是手工印还是机印,其操作程序基本与直印差不多。雕印生产中的一些主要问题及其产生原因和防止措施附后。不均匀的浆层形成不均匀的雕印,其不均匀的印疵     

涤粘仿毛产品的染整加工

涤纶/粘胶混纺织物经染色后,再通过后整理加工如拉毛、剪毛、烫光和蒸呢等,可获得类似羊毛外观的仿麦呢产品。产品手感柔软,光泽自然,呢面平整。介绍了涤粘仿毛产品染整加工中存在的一些问题,如色差、色牢度差、起毛起球、搭色、折痕和皱印等,并提出了相应的解决措施。     

等离子体技术在羊绒织物数码喷墨印花上的应用

采用低温等离子体对羊绒织物进行处理,探讨了等离子体处理对羊绒织物性能的影响。结果表明,等离子体处理后,数码喷墨印花羊绒织物的表观得色量、摩擦牢度、水洗牢度提高,渗化性能和毡缩性能得到改善;通过生产实践及产品检测,数码喷墨印花羊绒产品适宜工业化生产,符合纺织行业标准,产品性能优良。     

兰纳素/汽巴克隆染料用于染黑色天丝/羊绒混纺织物的研究

介绍了天丝/羊绒混纺织物的优点及在染色方面存在的问题.从天丝和羊绒的结构入手,讨论了新型纺织面料天丝/羊绒混纺织物的同浴染色;根据羊绒、天丝对不同染料的染色能力不同,通过筛选染料、选择适当工艺,最终实现了一浴法染黑色,并且达到了理想的乌黑度,解决了实际生产当中存在的染色问题,并成功地应用于生产.     

蒸呢工艺中蒸包布的作用

意大利比耶拉附近蒙格兰多小镇上的夫腊利济安诺(FRATELLI.GRAZIANO S·P·A)工厂开始生产蒸呢包布的历史要追溯到1936年在使用罐蒸机或传统的蒸呢机为全毛或毛混纺织物蒸呢加工时,一般来说,只要蒸呢包布选择得当,就能使织物达到理想的手感。因此,蒸呢包布在蒸呢工艺中起着关键的作用。 在过去的几年里,格腊济安诺与在比耶拉的几家技术先进的毛纺织染厂进行了部分的技术合作,因而特别擅长生产适合含有高档纤维织物(如:山羊绒织物或阿尔帕卡羊驼毛织物)蒸呢加工的蒸呢包布。 在为高档织物蒸呢时所使用的蒸呢包布一定要避免织物正反两…     

论精纺毛染整技术发展趋势

通过对毛纺织技术中的湿整理工艺,多功能烘呢机的作用,烫光、轧光、预缩机的使用;蒸呢与灌蒸机的定型工艺等问题的探讨,总结出我国精纺毛整理理念和精纺毛染整技术的发展趋势。     

10—THE DIMENSIONAL PROPERTIES OF SOME WOOL DOUBLE-JERSEY STRUCTURES IN RELAXATION AND LAUNDERING

The dimensional behaviour of five non-jacquard wool double-jersey structures is investigated, both in relaxation (involving tumble-drying from the wet state) and in extensive laundering (Cubex washing followed by tumble-drying).

Tumble-drying for 1 hr from the wet-fabric condition only approximates to the completely relaxed state. Some felting of untreated fabrics occurs, but the effect of tumble-drying on felting is very small. Adequately shrink-resist-treated fabrics cannot be considered completely relaxed even after two consecutive tumble-drying cycles of 1-hr duration. However, in general, this technique allows sufficient fabric relaxation for subsequent dimensional changes over extensive laundering cycles of treated fabrics to be compatible with domestic machine-washable tolerances.

The felting rates of knitted wool fabrics in laundering from the ‘fully relaxed’ condition of untreated fabrics are dependent on the cover factor and independent of fabric structure. Under no circumstances, however, can untreated double-jersey fabric be practically manufactured to such tight constructions that felting can be eliminated entirely.

The linear dimensions of shrink-resist-treated fabrics in the fully laundered state are primarily dependent on the length of yarn in the structural knitted cell. In a semi-relaxed state, linear dimensions depend to a large extent on cover factor and the degree of distortion of the fabric.     

Investigation of effects of protease enzyme produced by Bacillus subtilis 168 E6-5 and commercial enzyme on physical properties of woolen fabric

Abstract

Wool is one of the most important fibers in textile industry, and has been commonly used for producing value added products due to its properties of lightness, warmth, softness, and smoothness. However, the special scale structure in wool cuticle can cause felting shrinkage of wool fabrics. Proteases have been widely used to modify the surface of wool to prevent wool felting, due to their ability to catalyze the hydrolysis of peptide bonds in wool scales. Although the treatment of wool with proteases was considered as an environmentally friendly technique to provide wool fabrics with shrink resistance properties, proteases exhibited low efficacy in removing the cuticle scales because of the highly cross-linked barriers. In this study, wool fabric was treated with protease enzyme obtained from novel isolated bacteria and commercial protease enzyme, and the results were compared. The tear strength, pilling changes in ΔE values, whiteness and yellowness values of wool were controlled. Results showed that treatment with Bacillus subtilis 168 E6-5 protease enzyme yielded improvements in the physical properties of wool fabric compared with commercial enzyme.     

毛针织物抗起球性能的研究

采用箱式起球仪对不同的毛针织物进行抗起球性实验,对影响毛针织物抗起球性能的因素:纱线捻度、纱线线密度、纱线股数、缩绒整理等多方面进行对比分析。结果表明:3股纱织物抗起球性好于2股纱织物,随着编织密度系数增加抗起球性提高,轻度缩绒有利于改善毛针织物抗起球性能。     

精纺毛织物三维印花工艺的研究

羊毛纤维具有毡缩性,而防缩剂具有防毡缩性,用防缩剂对羊毛织物印花、焙烘后再缩绒,则会得到具有立体感的绒面花型.基于这一原理,开发了三维印花毛织物.文章给出了印花浆料的配方,指出了生产过程中各工序的要点及难点,如染色后处理、印花浆料的配制、花型的选择、焙烘、缩呢及蒸呢等.     

Studies on the remedial effect of transglutaminase on protease anti‐felting treated wool

Oxidative protease treatment can improve anti‐felting of wool and also result in its loss of strength. In this study, one kind of microbial transglutaminase (MTG) was applied in the wet process of wool fabrics. The results indicated that transglutaminase could remediate wool damage following hydrogen peroxide and protease anti‐felting finishing, resulting in an increase in wool fabric strength and a decrease in alkali solubility. In addition, the evidence was provided that some cross‐linking through transglutaminase had occurred in the wool protein. The SEM showed that the scale structure became smoother after MTG treating. Analyzing of the thermal behavior revealed that the thermal stability of the MTG‐treated wool was enhanced. UV‐spectrum analysis suggested a decrease in protein extracted from the intercellular cements of the treated wool with MTG.     

超支化聚合物对羊毛织物的改性研究

为了改善羊毛织物的防毡缩性能,利用三羟甲基磷(THP)交联作用,将端氨基超支化聚合物(HBP-NH2)共价结合到羊毛纤维上,并测试整理后织物防毡缩、抗菌和染色性能及断裂强力变化。结果表明:单独使用超支化聚合物处理,羊毛织物的毡缩率由20.69%下降到17.31%,未达到羊毛织物防毡缩的目的;而经三羟甲基磷/超支化聚合物处理后,羊毛织物的毡缩率下降到7.43%,达到机可洗标准;且抑菌率达92.37%,低温条件下羊毛织物的染色性能也得到明显改善。     

低温等离子体对羊毛织物防毡缩性能的影响

文章讨论了低温等离子体对羊毛织物防毡缩性能的影响,分析了低温等离子体处理时间和功率对羊毛织物的毡缩率及断裂强力的影响,比较了树脂整理与低温等离子对羊毛织物防毡缩性能的影响,得出了最佳工艺:处理时间:3 min,压强:1 MPa,处理功率100 W,树脂用量:40 g/L。     

Savinase蛋白酶处理对粗纺毛织物性能的影响

粗纺毛织物以其质地丰厚、保暖性好深受消费者的喜爱,而毛织物在穿洗过程中易产生尺寸不稳定和毡缩现象,严重影响了织物的外观和服用性。针对以上情况,文章对粗纺毛织物的羊毛鳞片剥落的情况以及对织物性能的影响作了进一步的研究。首先采用双氧水进行预处理,然后采用Savinase蛋白酶对粗纺毛织物进行防缩整理,再对其进行强度、抗毡缩性、耐皱性、白度等性能测试,研究经Savinase蛋白酶处理后对粗纺毛织物性能的影响。通过测试发现,毛织物的防毡缩性能增加,断裂强力下降,织物白度增大,经纬向回复性都有所提高,织物变得较柔软,厚度减小,抗起毛起球性增加。     

柔丝蛋白纤维、竹炭改性涤纶和羊毛混纺产品的设计

介绍了柔丝蛋白纤维、竹炭改性涤纶的性能特点,与羊毛混纺织物设计及开发中的工艺要求、关键技术和产品特色。通过三种纤维有机的结合,赋予了产品特殊的功能和外观风格,提高了产品的档次及附加值。     

Plasma technology in wool

The textile industry processes a large quantity of fibres obtained from various animals of which wool is commercially the most important. However, it has some technical problems which affect the quality and performance of the finished products such as felting shrinkage, handle, lustre, pilling and dyeability. These problems may be attributed mainly to the presence of wool scales on the fibre surface. The scales are relatively hard and have sharp edges which are responsible for causing fibre directional movement and shrinkage during felting. Furthermore, the scales also serve as a barrier for diffusion processes which will adversely affect the sorption behaviour. In recent years, there has been an increase in the modification of wool surface scales by physical means such as mechanical, thermal and ultrasonic treatments, and chemical methods such as oxidation, reduction, enzyme and ozone treatments which can solve the felting and sorption problems to a certain extent. Hitherto, chemical treatments are still the most commonly used descaling methods in the industry.

Owing to the effect of pollution caused by various chemical treatments, physical treatments such as plasma treatment have been introduced recently as they are capable of achieving a similar descaling effect. Since the 1960s, scientists have successfully exploited plasma techniques in materials science. The plasma technologies have been fully utilised to improve the surface properties of fibres in many applications. The fibres that can be modified by plasmas include almost all kinds of fibre such as textile fibres, metallic fibres, glass fibres, carbon fibres, fabrics and other organic fibres.

Plasma-treated wool has different physical and chemical properties when compared with the untreated one. The changes in fibre properties alter the performance of the existing textile processes such as spinning, dyeing and finishing to produce a series of versatile wool products with superior quality. Therefore, the aim of this monograph is to give a critical appreciation of the latest developments of plasma treatment of wool. In this monograph, different surface treatments of wool including plasma treatment will be precisely described. Since plasma treatment can be used to alter material surfaces by removing outer layers, thus the method of generation of plasma and the reaction mechanisms between material surface and plasma species will be highlighted in this monograph. Similar to other chemical reactions, the factors such as (i) the nature of gas used, (ii) gas flow rate, (iii) system pressure and (iv) discharge power affecting the final results of plasma treatments will be described.

The main content of this monograph includes the application of plasma treatment on wool under different industrial conditions such as dyeing and shrinkproofing processing which will be reported and discussed respectively. In addition, the common analytical methods such as Scanning Electron Microscopy, X-ray Photoelectron Spectroscopy and Fourier Transform Infrared Spectroscopy with Attenuated Total Internal Reflectance mode analysis employed for characterising the surface properties of plasma-treated wool will be discussed. Based on the surface characterisation results, more details about the mechanism of plasma treatment that affects the wool processing such as dyeing and shrinkproofing can be explored.

In the latter part of the monograph, the serviceability of plasma-treated wool fabrics is discussed and the possibility of applying the plasma-treated wool fabric to industrial use is evaluated based on standard performance specification, e.g. ASTM. The fabric performance in terms of tailorability and sewability are also discussed with reference to the Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabric (KES-F) results. As the plasma process is a “dry” process, i.e. the water used in the plasma system can be recycled, thus it can solve the industrial effluent problem resulting in providing an effective means for the modification of wool fabrics.