喷气织机织制弹力织物纬向疵点问题的分析

从引纬机构、引纬原理、弹力包芯纱的品质等方面,对喷气织机织制纬弹织物出现的纬向疵点进行了分析和研究,给出了疵点产生的原因,并提出了克服疵点的技术要点和改进措施。     

用Dref 3摩擦纺多组分纬纱织造的织物的风格特征

研究分析了3种用Dref3摩擦纺多组分纬纱织造的平纹织物的风格特征。3种不同的纬纱是：芯皮均为粘纤;水溶性PVA作皮,粘胶无捻纱条作芯;PVA无捻纱条作芯,粘纤作皮。3种纱均在Dref3型摩擦纺机上按芯皮50／50比例纺成,经纱统一采用2合股纯棉纱线。将3种纱分别织成织物,然后用热水将PVA溶解去除。织物性能的测定结果：织物性能与组成织物的纱组分性能并不一致。无捻芯纱(溶掉PVA表皮)织物具有较高的拉伸强力、撕裂强力、折皱回复性和耐磨性;而空心纱(溶掉PVA作芯)织物具有丰满、蓬松的结构和良好的耐压缩性能。     

Effect of weft density and percentage of stainless steel fiber content of weft yarn on electrical properties of woven fabric strain sensors

Textile-based strain sensors have been used in smart textiles frequently. In this study, effect of percentage of stainless steel fiber of spun yarn (i.e. 28 and 40%) and weft density (i.e. 14, 18, and 22 per cm) of conductive yarn on performance and sensitivity of woven fabrics strain sensor under tensile cyclic loading in 3 mm elongation and also behavior of woven fabric strain sensors under simple tensile loading, was studied. Our finding showed the interaction between weft density and percentage of conductive fiber of spun yarns on performance and sensitivity of strain sensors under cyclic loading. Samples prepared by conductive yarns with 40% stainless steel fiber showed no clear cyclic variation in 18 and 22 weft per cm. This trend for samples woven with conductive yarn with 28% stainless steel fiber was only observed in 22 weft per cm. All samples showed the same trend of resistance variation during simple tensile loading, although the level of resistance variation was different. The slope of resistance variation during tensile cyclic loading confirmed plastic deformation of samples. Finally, by comparing the sensitivity of strain sensors during cyclic loading no obvious advantage was obtained for samples woven with conductive yarn with 40% stainless steel fiber compared with samples woven with conductive yarn with 28% stainless steel fiber.     

Prediction of warp and weft yarn crimp in cotton woven fabrics

The aim of this study was to develop statistical models for the prediction of warp and weft crimp percentage of cotton woven fabrics. The developed models are based on the empirical data obtained from carefully developed 60 fabric samples with different yarn linear densities, fabric densities, and weave designs. The predictability and accuracy of the developed models was assessed by correlation analysis of the predicted and actual crimp values of another set of eight fabric samples which was not used for the development of models. The results show fairly good capability and accuracy of the prediction models.     

The effect of yarn twist direction on the formability of woven fabrics

This experimental work examines the influence of the yarn twist on the formability of a woven fabric. Consideration is given to the phenomenon of bedding between warp and weft yarns, as affected by the local helix angles of bent yarns. A total of 28 plain weave woven fabrics (four groups, each with seven samples) were produced, using Solospun? yarns as warp and weft threads. The fabric bending length and the initial modulus of each sample were measured from which the formability was calculated. Results indicated that the fabrics in which the warp and weft twists are unidirectional (Z &; Z) have higher formability in comparison to those fabrics in which the warp and weft twists are opposite to each other (Z &; S). In addition, among the former fabrics the highest formability belongs to those in which the total helix angle of the warp and weft is close to 90 degree whereas the lowest formability belongs to the latter fabrics with least amount of twist.     

羊绒机织产品织造过程中纱线消耗的控制

文章主要探讨了羊绒机织产品在织布车间从纱线领入到坯布转出过程中控制纱线消耗、提高织造制成率的问题,经过技术改进、创新、加强管理、转变观念,解决了整经末绞长回丝、穿综穿筘剪头、各工序扎绞、剑杆织机假边回丝及了机长回丝等在生产过程中的不合理消耗,使产品实际制成率从原来的94%提高到95.75%,节约了纱线,降低了生产成本,为企业获得了显著的经济效益.     

Coolmax/JC纱与大豆蛋白纤维纱交织提花面料的开发

介绍了大豆蛋白纤维紧密纱与Coolmax／JC混纺纱交织面料的织造工艺流程,讨论了工艺参数的选择,通过原料和组织的优化组合,使产品突出大豆蛋白纤维的特点。     

经纬异色毛粘花呢的开发

介绍了粘胶丝在毛精纺呢绒设计与开发中的应用,了解和掌握粘胶丝与羊毛纱交织的工艺技术,以及织物效果。从原料选择、纱线结构、织物结构、生产工艺流程、关键工艺技术及质量控制等方面进行了详细论述,指出开发此产品设计中的关键问题、生产工艺及工艺选择注意事项。对粘胶丝产品易产生的纬向疵点,提出了具体的解决措施。分析对比了毛粘花呢织物的物理指标,该织物制成成衣后,具有挺爽、舒适、自然丝般的光泽,为开拓毛精纺面料市场奠定了良好的基础。     

Studies of the hybrid effect in mechanical properties of tencel blended ring-, rotor- and air-jet spun yarns

This paper presents a study of hybrid effect on mechanical properties of tencel blended ring-, rotor- and Murata jet spinning yarns. The tensile strength, breaking elongation, flexural rigidity and abrasion resistance of tencel-polyester and tencel-cotton blended yarns are examined and compared with the value predicted using linear and quadratic rule of mixture (ROM). It is observed that there is no significant hybrid effect on abrasion resistance of tencel-polyester mix yarns and tenacity and breaking extension of tencel-cotton mix yarns; hence, a linear ROM is found better in predicting the yarn properties. Further, for all yarn types, there is a significant hybrid effect on tenacity, breaking extension and flexural rigidity of tencel-polyester mixes and flexural rigidity and abrasion resistance of tencel-cotton mixes. A quadratic ROM model suits well for these yarns. Overall, it is found that there is a negative hybrid effect on tenacity and breaking extension whereas there is a positive hybrid effect on flexural rigidity for all the yarn samples irrespective of fibre and yarn type. The abrasion resistance has a mixed trend. Further, tencel-polyester yarns yield more satisfactory results than the tencel-cotton yarns in terms of strength and breaking extension but behave poorly during abrasion test for 200 cycles. Increasing tencel content both in tencel-polyester and tencel-cotton fibre-mix produces a rigid yarn with reduced abrasion resistance.     

不锈钢短纤维/棉包覆氨纶纱的弹性与电学性能

为开发兼具弹性和导电性能的电磁功能纱线,以氨纶为芯丝、外包不锈钢短纤维/棉混纺纱,研制系列弹性不锈钢短纤维/棉包覆氨纶纱。在Instron 5566万能试验机上,结合万用表,获得弹性纱线的应力-应变、应变-电阻以及定伸长弹性回复曲线,研究纱线在不同拉伸状态下的电学性能。结果表明:不锈钢短纤维/棉包覆氨纶芯丝的纱线,存在氨纶芯丝的断裂现象,将不锈钢短纤维/棉包覆氨纶芯丝的纱线直接与氨纶丝或氨纶/棉包芯纱直接并合的方式,赋予纱线弹性;随着不锈钢短纤维含量的增加,弹性纱线的弹性伸长和回复性能都降低,塑性变形增加;随着弹性纱线应变的增加,其电阻先增加后降低。     

Effect of cotton fiber and yarn characteristics on color variation in woven fabric dyed with vat dyes

The aim of this study was to investigate the effect of cotton fiber and yarn characteristics on the color variation of woven fabrics dyed with vat dyes. A fabric length of 31?m was woven so that each meter of the fabric comprised weft yarns of slightly different cotton fiber or yarn characteristics as compared to the other. The woven fabric was pretreated and dyed with vat dyes using industrial-scale, pad-dry-chemical-pad-steam process. After dyeing it was found that the fabric containing weft yarns made from cotton with higher reflectance (Rd) values gave poor color strength as compared to that of lower Rd values. Fabric comprising combed weft yarns showed better color depth (K/S) values as compared to that comprising carded weft yarns made from the same raw cotton. Furthermore, the fabric comprising finer- or lower-twist weft yarns gave higher color depth as compared to that with coarser or higher-twist weft yarns. It was concluded that slight variations in the cotton or yarn characteristics in the weft yarns could result in significant shade variations in the vat-dyed fabric.     

纳米催化剂在毛织物防皱整理中的应用

纳米材料是一种新型功能材料,具有表面积大,表面活性中心多,吸附性强等一般材料所不能比拟的优异性能,易引发交联反应,且对环境无污染.用纳米氧化硅作催化剂,对经剥鳞处理的毛织物进行马来酸酐的抗皱整理,通过实验分别测定不同浓度和不同焙烘温度的整理效果,确定最佳纳米氧化硅的浓度和最佳焙烘温度,整理后织物的干湿折皱回复角有明显提高,且断裂强度保持率也较高,手感较好.     

氨纶与双组分复合长丝/棉包芯纱的拉伸弹性

为改善传统弹力包芯纱弹性回复性能,以氨纶、双组分复合长丝(CM800)为芯纱,棉纤维为外包纤维,设计了13种弹力包芯纱。探讨氨纶预牵伸倍数、芯纱线密度和弹力包芯纱反复拉伸次数与弹性回复率之间的关系。采用纱线强伸仪测试氨纶/棉、CM800/棉和棉双丝弹力包芯纱的拉伸弹性。结果表明:氨纶的牵伸倍数越大,弹力包芯纱的弹性回复率越小;随着氨纶线密度的增加,包芯纱的弹性回复率先增加后减少;CM800线密度越小,包芯纱的弹性回复率越小;氨纶/棉、CM800/棉和棉双丝弹力包芯纱的定伸长5%和定负荷200 c N反复拉伸次数与纱线弹性回复率的关系均符合幂函数关系,且弹力包芯纱的弹性回复率随着纱线反复拉伸次数的增加而降低;CM800/棉包芯纱的弹性回复率最大,氨纶/棉包芯纱的弹性回复率最小。     

柔丝/甲壳素/长绒棉混纺纱及其针织物的性能研究

基于黏胶改性蛋白纤维柔丝,设计开发针织用27.7tex柔丝/甲壳素/长绒棉(40/30/30)混纺针织纱线,测试分析了混纺纱线的性能;经单面集圈网眼组织纬编织造和后整理工艺制备针织物,测试分析其物理力学性能和服用性能。研究结果显示,该织物服用舒适性好,具有良好的护肤保健功能,适合用于针织T恤、针织内衣等贴身针织服装的开发。     

The dimensional and mechanical properties of wool/polyester fabrics made from vortex and ring-spun yarns

Fabric woven from wool/polyester (PES) Murata vortex spun (MVS) blend yarn is a commercially viable proposition particularly on the basis of advantageous wear-resistant properties, compared with fabric made from traditional worsted ring-spun yarn. However, in some early industrial trials with fabric made from 45/55-blend wool/PES MVS yarn, significantly greater relaxation shrinkage was found relative to comparable worsted ring-spun fabric. It was noted at the time that the amount of relaxation shrinkage in MVS fabric could be reduced to a large extent by using steamed MVS yarn.

In this study, the extent of variations in the dimensional and mechanical properties of fabric samples woven from a combination of steamed and unsteamed MVS yarn and equivalent worsted ring-spun yarn is examined. In general, greater hygral expansion and relaxation shrinkage were found in loom-state fabrics made from unsteamed MVS yarns, whereas the fabric made from steamed MVS and ring-spun yarns gave relatively low levels of relaxation shrinkage and hygral expansion. Permanent setting of fabrics, by pressure steaming, was found to be more effective than yarn pre-steaming in reducing relaxation shrinkage levels of fabrics made from unsteamed MVS yarn. After pressure steaming, all fabrics showed similar levels of relaxation shrinkage and hygral expansion.

Permanent setting of the fabrics, by pressure steaming, resulted in similar levels of relaxation shrinkage and hygral expansion, irrespective of the yarn production method; relaxation shrinkage fell to around 1% and hygral expansion increased by about 1%, relative to the loom-state samples. MVS fabrics were relatively heavier and fuller and had a firmer handle than the worsted ring-spun fabrics, reflecting the greater fabric weight, thickness and shear rigidity measured on these fabrics. These attributes are associated with different structures of the worsted ring-spun and MVS yarns used to make the fabrics.     

锦/氨纶包覆纱拉伸力学性能与包覆度的研究

一定规格的锦纶丝、莱卡丝在空心锭子纺纱机上纺制了一系列不同包覆度的锦纶 /氨纶包覆纱 ,并对成纱性能进行了拉伸实验分析 ,得到了包覆纱断裂强力、断裂伸长率与包覆度间的相应规律。     

Tensile characteristics and stress relaxation analysis of woven fabrics in terms of fabric direction

Abstract

Woven fabrics in various end uses are subjected to tensile loads in different directions, so investigation of the effect of fabric direction on the tensile behaviour and the stress relaxation performance of fabrics is important and needs to be considered. In this study, the tensile and stress relaxation properties of woven fabrics with five various weave structures have been analysed, in different directions. It was concluded that the tensile properties of fabrics such as Young’s modulus, breaking load and elongation and also the work of rupture were significantly affected by the fabric direction and weave structure. Moreover, it was determined that the fabric tensile stress relaxation (%) was considerably affected by the applied strain level, fabric direction and weave structure in the confidence range of 95% and it might well be expressed as a Gaussian function of sample direction.     

The effect of the through-thickness yarn component on the in- and out-of-plane properties of composites from 3D orthogonal woven preforms

Development of three-dimensional (3D) weaving technology introduced new and enhanced features to the 2D weaving technology. 3D Orthogonal Woven (3DOW) preforms have a through-thickness yarn component that significantly enhances the out-of-plane properties and delamination resistance. In this study, a range of 3DOW E-glass preforms were woven using 3D weaving technology and then converted into composites, using vacuum assisted resin transfer molding technology. The composite samples had varying Z to Y-yarn/ layer ratio, the objective is to study the effect of changing the Z to Y-yarn/ layer ratio on the in-plane and out-of-plane mechanical properties. The study concludes that changing the amount of Z-yarn in the structure has negligible effect on the tensile (in-plane), yet, it has a significant effect on the drop weight impact properties (out-of-plane). Moreover, it had a strong effect on the failure mechanisms, and as the amount of Z-yarn is reduced, delamination became more significant.     

聚酯长丝/棉复合纱斜纹织物的保形性及服用性能

为研究聚酯(PET)长丝/棉复合纱斜纹织物的保形性及服用性能,利用PET长丝与纯棉纱开发了3种线密度为9.8 tex的纱线,并以二上二下斜纹组织织造了4种织物。对织物进行了折皱回复性、免烫性、尺寸稳定性、悬垂性等保形性能,强伸性、拉伸弹性、顶破性等抗变形性测试,以及手感风格、透湿性、透气性等服用性能测试。对比分析了纯棉纱织物与复合纱织物的保形性与服用性能。结果表明:PET长丝/棉复合纱可改善纯棉织物的折皱回复性、悬垂性,提高免烫等级,同时又不影响织物的服用性能;包芯纱织物比包缠纱织物有更好的保形性,更高的免烫等级,是免烫衬衫面料的理想选择。     

强捻纱竹浆织物舒适性和折皱回复性研究

普通捻度竹浆织物有着优良的舒适性能,但存在抗皱性缺陷。对强捻度和普通捻度竹浆纱及其织物性能的测试分析表明：由于强捻纱实际直径变小,强捻度竹浆织物透气性、透湿性优于普通捻度竹浆织物;实际生产中,可通过提高强捻竹浆织物的实际紧密度和纱线弹性回复性改善织物的折皱回复性能,且纱线弹性回复性能影响显著。