充气防寒服的保暖性能

为维持户外活动人体热舒适性,研发一种保暖性能可调的防寒服装,以满足人体在不同活动量或环境温度变化情况下对服装保暖性能的需求,评价了一件充气服装的保暖性能,通过“Newton”出汗暖体假人实验测试了充气服装在4种充气量和3种风速下的上身总热阻和局部热阻。实验结果表明:充气状态下胸部、腹部和背部的局部热阻以及上身总热阻显著大于未充气状态,但是充气量之间没有明显差异;充气服装局部热阻和上身总热阻均随着风速的增加显著降低,不同充气量之间也没有显著差异。研究表明,充气服装在一定程度上可以作为一种有效的手段动态调节服装的保暖性。     

风速与步速对服装表面空气层热阻的影响

从服装舒适性角度出发,以服装热舒适性的研究为入口,着重分析风速与步速对服装表面空气层热阻的影响,给出服装的热阻与风速及步速的关系公式。在设定的环境条件下,通过人体假人进行测试,验证公式的预测性和实用性,并找出裸态人体表面空气层热阻和着装后服装表面空气层热阻之间的差异。服装的热阻,以服装的表面为分界线,分为基本热阻与着装人体服装外表面边界空气层的热阻。实验结果表明：风速、行走速度会使服装外表面空气层的热阻减小。     

手臂活动角度对服装局部热阻的影响

为研究手臂活动角度对衣下间隙局部分布及服装局部散热性能的影响,利用三维扫描仪量化了出汗暖体假人在6种手臂姿势下,12个体段的衣下间隙体积及接触面积,提取了表征人体活动空间大小的物理指标,测量了服装各体段的局部热阻。结果表明:手臂的前伸角度与衣下间隙体积呈负相关性,而与接触面积呈显著正相关性,人体的活动空间随着手臂前伸角度的增加而显著减少;各体段的局部有效热阻呈现出非均匀的分布状态,局部衣下空气层体积越大、接触面积越小的体段,其有效热阻越大。服装的有效热阻可用衣下间隙体积与接触面积百分比共同预测。     

羽绒服装系统的面积因子预测及适用性分析

为合理评价羽绒服装系统的热湿舒适性,准确获取服装的面积因子,利用手持式三维扫描仪对12套羽绒服装系统进行扫描并计算。通过相关性分析确定了服装设计参数(总充绒量、长度)、服装热物理性能(固有热阻和总热阻)与面积因子的相关关系,并基于各影响因素建立了面积因子预测模型。以固有热阻预测面积因子方法作为切入点,探讨了标准数据库中面向轻薄服装的面积因子计算方法在羽绒服装系统中的适用性,并进一步考察了总热阻预测面积因子方法的有效性。结果表明：羽绒服总充绒量与面积因子具有显著相关关系,且长度的作用依赖于单位面积充绒量;相较于固有热阻预测面积因子的方法,总热阻预测法具有更高的预测准确性。     

The relationship between air gap sizes and clothing heat transfer performance

The objective of the study is to establish a quantitative relationship between air gap sizes and clothing thermal performance. Using a three-dimensional human body scanner, the thicknesses and volumes of air gaps of 35 experimental shirts were measured. Relationships between the thermal insulations of clothing, measured on a thermal manikin, and air gap volumes were examined by regression analysis. Also, the regression model between clothing surface temperatures, measured by an infrared thermal camera, and air gap thicknesses was established. The results proved that the thermal insulation of experimental shirts increased with air gap sizes but began to decrease as a result of natural convection when the air gap thickness was higher than 1?cm or the air gap volume was greater than 6000?cm³. The 3D human body scanner can accurately measure air gaps under clothing, but it is expensive and is not available everywhere. A substitute method is to build a mathematical model for predicting air gap sizes. In this paper, regression models were established to estimate volumes and thicknesses of air gaps when the ease allowances of chest circumference and fabric properties were known. This study can be used to predict the thermal performance of clothing at the product’s design stage.     

赫哲族鱼皮服饰元素的艺术特征及在现代服饰中的应用研究

赫哲族鱼皮服饰是我国少数民族服饰中最为典型的民族服饰之一,它是赫哲人在历史与与自然长期的互动中,形成独特的民族产物。本文通过总结赫哲族鱼皮服饰的保护现状,以赫哲族独特的生活方式、民族信仰以及特定的地域文化入手,结合鱼皮服饰的材料、色彩、纹样等元素,探索出赫哲族传统服饰与现代服饰的融合创新之路,并对赫哲族鱼皮元素如何在当今服饰中应用提出自己的见解,将赫哲民族文化传承与保护推进到新的高度。     

婴幼儿病号服的设计因素分析

婴幼儿病号服在中国还处于一种萌芽、不完善的状态,一些医院还没有推广应用婴幼儿病号服。主要分析了影响婴幼儿病号服设计的心理、颜色、装饰、面料、款式和结构等因素,分析了婴幼儿病号服在制作时应注意的事项和标准。合理的婴幼儿病号服设计,有助于生病期间婴幼儿的治疗与康复。     

Thermal properties of combat uniforms treated with microencapsulated octadecane and change in clothing microclimate via thermal manikin

This study examined how the heat storage property and the heat release property of three different PCM (Phase Change Material) treatment concentrations of combat uniform fabrics affected microclimate inside clothing after the octadecane-treated fabrics were made into garments. Three combat uniforms were constructed with fabrics treated by three different octadecane concentrations (0, 8, and 16%) at the same curing temperature of 113.6 °C. The thermal properties of the octadecane-treated fabrics were acquired by using DSC (Differential Scanning Calorimeter) analysis. Also, water vapor and air permeability were measured before the thermal comfort of the octadecane-treated combat uniforms was evaluated. And then, a thermal manikin was used to measure skin temperature, skin humidity, and microclimate temperature, while the chamber was set at various environmental temperatures (0, 0–35, 35, and 35–0 °C). And, to analyze the differences among skin temperature, skin humidity, and microclimate temperature of the garments according to the three different octadecane concentrations, ANOVA and a post hoc test were conducted. As a result, heat of fusion and heat of crystallization (ΔH_f and ΔH_c) were observed to increase as the octadecane concentration increased. The 8% octadecane-treated fabrics had 3.56 J/g of ΔH_f, 3.80 J/g of ΔH_c, and the 16% octadecane-treated fabrics had 7.46 J/g of ΔH_f, 7.44 J/g of ΔH_c. Also, the more octadecane was added, the less water vapor and air permeability had the fabrics because many open spaces were covered due to the microcapsules after octadecane treatment. It might influence on clothing microclimate. However, the 8% octadecane-treated garment (G1) exhibited less differential skin temperature and humidity and clothing microclimate temperature than the 16% octadecane-treated garment (G2) even though the octadecane concentration was lower. It means that the 8% octadecane-treated garment exhibited better thermal performance than the 16% octadecane-treated garment. This is because the higher octadecane concentration caused the fabric to become stiffer, thereby causing the still air layer to decrease the thermal insulation efficiency and the octadecane treatment was not affected. It differed from the result of the thermal properties (ΔH_f and ΔH_c) of the octadecane-treated fabrics. The reason for this result is that when the thermal manikin wore the octadecane-treated garments, various factors had effects on thermal properties such as environmental aspects, physiological aspects, and clothing aspects.     

浅谈汉元素在现代服装中的应用与发展

汉服是中华文化的一个重要载体,有着悠久的历史和深厚的文化底蕴,在社会的不断变迁和发展下,汉元素成为一种新型的时尚潮流。在遵循传统文化的前提下,汉元素的分解与重组可以将传统的服装元素融合到现代服装中。以汉元素的复兴为依据,传承传统文化的过程中也是探索汉元素在现代服装中全新的发展领域和未来道路。     

气调运输车厢渗风对氧气体积分数的影响

在分析热压和风压作用下车厢渗风特性的基础上,研究了车厢渗风对车厢内氧气体积分数的影响,并进行了试验验证。研究结果表明:气调保鲜车厢的试验渗风量与理论渗风量基本相符,气调保鲜运输车厢渗风量模型具有一定的准确性;气调保鲜运输途中车厢渗风主要是由风压作用引起的,热压单独作用引起的渗风量较小,并且当车速越大时,热压作用对行驶过程中总渗风量的影响越小;气调保鲜车停车时车厢O_2体积分数上升较慢,运输中O_2体积分数上升较快,并且渗风量和车厢装载率越大O_2体积分数上升越快。     

Determination of a representative volume element based on the variability of mechanical properties with sample size in bread

Quantitative analysis of food structure is commonly obtained by image analysis of a small portion of the material that may not be the representative of the whole sample. In order to quantify structural parameters (air cells) of 2 types of bread (bread and bagel) the concept of representative volume element (RVE) was employed. The RVE for bread, bagel, and gelatin-gel (used as control) was obtained from the relationship between sample size and the coefficient of variation, calculated from the apparent Young's modulus measured on 25 replicates. The RVE was obtained when the coefficient of variation for different sample sizes converged to a constant value. In the 2 types of bread tested, the tendency of the coefficient of variation was to decrease as the sample size increased, while in the homogeneous gelatin-gel, it remained always constant around 2.3% to 2.4%. The RVE resulted to be cubes with sides of 45 mm for bread, 20 mm for bagels, and 10 mm for gelatin-gel (smallest sample tested). The quantitative image analysis as well as visual observation demonstrated that bread presented the largest dispersion of air-cell sizes. Moreover, both the ratio of maximum air-cell area/image area and maximum air-cell height/image height were greater for bread (values of 0.05 and 0.30, respectively) than for bagels (0.03 and 0.20, respectively). Therefore, the size and the size variation of air cells present in the structure determined the size of the RVE. It was concluded that RVE is highly dependent on the heterogeneity of the structure of the types of baked products.     

Exploring the use of random regression models with legendre polynomials to analyze measures of volume of ejaculate in Holstein bulls

Artificial insemination centers routinely collect records of quantity and quality of semen of bulls throughout the animals’ productive period. The goal of this paper was to explore the use of random regression models with orthogonal polynomials to analyze repeated measures of semen production of Spanish Holstein bulls. A total of 8,773 records of volume of first ejaculate (VFE) collected between 12 and 30 mo of age from 213 Spanish Holstein bulls was analyzed under alternative random regression models. Legendre polynomial functions of increasing order (0 to 6) were fitted to the average trajectory, additive genetic and permanent environmental effects. Age at collection and days in production were used as time variables. Heterogeneous and homogeneous residual variances were alternatively assumed. Analyses were carried out within a Bayesian framework. The logarithm of the marginal density and the cross-validation predictive ability of the data were used as model comparison criteria. Based on both criteria, age at collection as a time variable and heterogeneous residuals models are recommended to analyze changes of VFE over time. Both criteria indicated that fitting random curves for genetic and permanent environmental components as well as for the average trajector improved the quality of models. Furthermore, models with a higher order polynomial for the permanent environmental (5 to 6) than for the genetic components (4 to 5) and the average trajectory (2 to 3) tended to perform best. High-order polynomials were needed to accommodate the highly oscillating nature of the phenotypic values. Heritability and repeatability estimates, disregarding the extremes of the studied period, ranged from 0.15 to 0.35 and from 0.20 to 0.50, respectively, indicating that selection for VFE may be effective at any stage. Small differences among models were observed. Apart from the extremes, estimated correlations between ages decreased steadily from 0.9 and 0.4 for measures 1 mo apart to 0.4 and 0.2 for most distant measures for additive genetic and phenotypic components, respectively. Further investigation to account for environmental factors that may be responsible for the oscillating observations of VFE is needed.     

中国“一带一路”倡议沿线区域纺织服装业与物流业融合发展研究北大核心CSCD

构建纺织服装产业和物流业融合发展指标体系,运用复合系统协调度模型剖析2010—2019年中国“一带一路”倡议沿线区域纺织服装产业与物流业融合发展过程的协调性,文章通过障碍度模型揭示了影响产业融合的主要障碍因子及区域间的差异。结果表明:“一带一路”倡议沿线省(区、市)纺织业、服装业的有序度呈现下降趋势,物流业的有序度呈上升趋势;服装业与物流业的融合发展水平已经高于纺织业与物流业融合发展水平,但都尚处于初级协调状态。影响“一带一路”倡议沿线省(区、市)纺织业与物流业融合发展的主要障碍因子包括纺织企业个数、物流业增加值、物流业固定资产投资额、纺织业就业人数、货运周转量;影响服装业与物流业融合发展的主要障碍因子包括服装业资本保值增值率、服装业就业人数、物流业增加值、物流业固定资产投资额、服装业利润增长率;且不同区域的障碍因子存在一定的差异。     

我国饮料酒接触面积/体积比数据库构建及其在风险评估中初步应用

目的了解我国饮料酒包装材料使用情况,研究构建饮料酒不同类型接触材料的面积/体积比参数。方法采集1 196份市场销售的不同包装、不同类型的饮料酒,采用直接测量法或3D面积测量仪计算不同类型饮料酒的接触面积,结合不同类型饮料酒的规格,计算接触面积/体积比。结果 97.4%(1 165/1 196)的饮料酒主体接触材料为单一材质,主要为玻璃和陶瓷,2.6%(31/1 196)的饮料酒接触材料为复合塑料和含涂层的铝罐等复合材质。不同类型饮料酒的接触面积/体积比的范围为2.84～19.67 dm~2/kg。96.7%(1 156/1 196)的饮料酒的接触面积/体积比≥6 dm~2/kg,81.9%(979/1 196)介于≥7.0～9.0 dm~2/kg之间。结论我国大部分市售饮料酒的接触面积/体积比大于欧盟评估时采用的6 dm~2/kg,利用本次调查研究获得的参数将会降低食品接触材料风险评估中的不确定性。     

多轴三维织机斜纱引入机构的设计

为了避免三维机织物各向异性突出的缺陷,通过引入斜纱来增强三维机织物的平面属性,以适应航空航天等应用领域对三维机织物各向同性的性能要求。介绍了多轴三维织物的组织结构,设计其织造用的斜纱引导机构,该机构由4个特殊直线步进电机组成;在UG中对该机构进行建模并在Ansoft Maxwell中建立单个直线电机二维模型,并对此电机进行静态磁场分析以及推力仿真。为多轴三维织机虚拟样机的建模、设计与仿真及其物理样机的研制奠定必要的基础。     

中国明代与欧洲文艺复兴时期皇室女装的比较

运用历史考察及比较法对明代与文艺复兴时期欧洲的皇室女装进行研究,在参考国内外资料的基础上,对两者的变化进行了初步探索,并从服装面料、颜色、款式和审美的角度对其进行比较,分析异同,提出相关观点。     

The effects of forage proportion and rapidly degradable dry matter from concentrate on ruminal digestion in dairy cows fed corn silage-based diets with fixed neutral detergent fiber and starch contents

This study investigated the effects of the forage-to-concentrate (F:C) ratio and the rate of ruminal degradation of carbohydrates from the concentrate on digestion in dairy cows fed corn silage-based diets. Six cows with ruminal cannulas were assigned to 6 treatments in a 6 × 6 Latin square. Treatments were arranged in a 3 × 2 factorial design. Three proportions of neutral detergent fiber from forage [FNDF; 7.6, 13.2, and 18.9% of dry matter (DM)] were obtained by modifying F:C (20:80, 35:65, and 50:50). These F:C were combined with concentrates with either high or low content of rapidly degradable carbohydrates. The dietary content of rapidly degradable carbohydrates from the concentrate was estimated from the DM disappearance of concentrate after 4 h of in sacco incubation (CRDM). Thus, 2 proportions of CRDM were tested (20 and 30% of DM). Wheat and corn grain were used as rapidly and slowly degradable starch sources, respectively. Soybean hulls and citrus pulp were used as slowly and rapidly degradable fiber sources, respectively. Concentrate composition was adjusted to maintain dietary starch and neutral detergent fiber contents at 35.9 and 28.9% of DM, respectively. There was no effect of the interaction between F:C and CRDM on DM intake (DMI), ruminal fermentation, chewing activity, and fibrolytic activity. When F:C decreased, DMI increased, the mean ruminal pH linearly decreased, and the pH range linearly increased from 0.95 to 1.27 pH unit. At the same time, the acetate-to-propionate ratio decreased linearly. Decreasing F:C linearly decreased the average time spent chewing per kilogram of DMI from 35.2 to 19.5 min/kg of DMI and decreased ruminal liquid outflow from 11.6 to 9.2 L/kg of DMI, suggesting a decrease in the salivary flow. Increasing CRDM decreased DMI and increased the time during which pH was below 6.0 (3.1 vs. 4.8 h), the pH range (0.90 vs. 1.33), and the initial rate of pH drop. It also increased the volatile fatty acid range (35 vs. 59 mM), thus suggesting an increased rate of fermentation. It also decreased the acetate-to-propionate ratio (2.9 vs. 1.8). Increasing CRDM barely affected the average time spent chewing per kilogram of DMI and the ruminal liquid outflow. These results suggest that rumen pH is controlled by different mechanisms when F:C is decreased or when CRDM is increased. Consequently, FNDF is a good predictor of the chewing time, whereas CRDM is a good predictor of the pH range and volatile fatty acid profiles. Finally, considering both FNDF and CRDM improves the prediction of mean pH.     

超高效液相色谱大体积流通池荧光法检测花生油中黄曲霉毒素B1的不确定度评定

目的 评定超高效液相色谱大体积流通池荧光法测定花生油中黄曲霉毒素B₁含量的不确定度。方法 依据GB 5009.22-2016《食品安全国家标准 食品中黄曲霉毒素B族和G族的测定》第三法无衍生器法测定花生油中黄曲霉毒素B1(AFTB₁),根据JJF1059.1-2012《测量不确定度评定与表示》建立超高效液相色谱大体积流通池测定花生油中AFTB₁含量的数学模型,对各个不确定度分量进行评定和分析。结果 在95%置信区间下,当花生油中AFTB₁含量为1.1815μg/kg时,其扩展不确定度为0.2217μg/kg,k=2。结论 检测结果的不确定度主要受标准曲线拟合、样品回收率、标准溶液配制、重复性测定影响。     

古画字画题材的织锦画纹织CAD设计技艺

从应用纹织CAD设计古画字画题材的织锦画入手,探讨古画字画题材的织锦画在实际意匠设计及产品开发中的方法技艺.分析了在意匠的绘画、色彩方面的特点,特别强调细节的处理方法,强化需要突出的部位;分析了组织配置要求及特点.对应用纹织CAD.设计织锦画方面进行了经验总结.