手摇横机针织面料的开发及其应用

在普通手摇横机上利用开关功能开发时尚的针织面料,分析三维立体、仿毛圈以及衬纬组织针织面料的编织工艺与编织方法。阐述在针织面料开发过程中,结合流行趋势、熟练操作手摇横机、灵活应用纱线特性、变化织针的运针手法,可以创造出富有生命力的针织面料。在针织服装创作过程中,手摇横机比电脑横机更为灵活与方便。文章结合面料的视觉效果和面料特性,研究其在针织服装上的设计及应用,旨在对针织服装设计师及工艺师对手摇横机的面料开发有更深一步探索,使其功能得以充分的发挥。     

针织服装拼接机织面料的可行性评价

通过分析针织服装自身存在的缺陷和人们对针织服装款式的审美疲劳,利用机织面料的结构特性将机织面料拼接在针织服装上,并通过实验和问卷调查验证了针织服装款式中合理拼接机织面料的可行性.     

针织服装悬垂型褶裥的造型方法解析

近年来悬垂型褶裥在服装尤其是针织服装设计中应用广泛,成为时尚元素之一。文中分析悬垂型褶裥在针织服装上的设计应用与理论研究现状、悬垂型褶裥的分类和个性特点,以及针织面料对悬垂型褶裥的适用性。从应用方式和设计方法两个方面,探讨悬垂型褶裥在针织服装上的主要表现形式,归纳针织服装上悬垂型褶裥的各类造型技术方法。该研究可为针织面料特性的有效利用和针织服装的创新设计提供思路和参考。     

创意设计在针织服装上的应用

通过对面料、色彩图案和廓型结构这几个针织服装设计中比较重要的因素进行分析,阐述创意设计在针织服装中的应用,试为针织服装的创意设计提供设计思路.     

基于针织面料特性的针织服装缝制工艺研究

基于针织面料特性研究了针织服装缝制工艺过程中缝线、缝迹、缝针的选择,并分析了针织服装缝制工艺中的常见故障,最后提出了针织服装缝制工艺方面未来的发展方向。     

印花在针织服装上的设计与应用

以印花工艺在针织服装上的设计与应用为研究立足点,从印花工艺特点、针织面料特性以及针织服装设计要素等角度展开剖析,结合图例,以期从事本专业人员对印花工艺了解,并能把握针织服装的性能,更好地为针织服装设计开发应用服务.     

基于情感体验的婴幼儿针织面料肌理设计

针织面料由于丰富的肌理表现,在婴幼儿服装设计中扮演重要的角色。在进行针织面料肌理设计时需要满足婴幼儿的生理和心理需求,设计出具有良好情感体验的针织面料。文章从婴幼儿感兴趣的事物中提取图案元素,进行系列针织面料的工艺设计实践,灵活运用组织结构的物理特性、针织技术和纱线性能,开发出几何凹凸肌理、立体褶皱肌理、仿生浮雕肌理针织面料。文章阐述各种面料肌理编织原理以及在婴幼儿服装上的应用,给婴幼儿服装设计师提供更多思路。     

高弹针织面料在服装造型中的应用研究

对高弹针织面料在针织裁剪服装创意造型中的应用现状进行分析。结合具体服装造型案例,归纳和探索高弹针织面料的服装创意造型方法,包括填充式造型、编织和编结造型、包缠式造型、披挂和堆叠式造型方法,研究高弹针织面料、人体与服装造型的空间关系。该研究可为高弹针织裁剪服装的创新设计提供方法和思路,对探索服装造型设计本质具有重要意义。     

不同松量条件下针织服装纸样变化规律的探讨

在不同松量条件下,分析7种常用针织面料和1种梭织面料包覆人台的状态.以4 cm、0、-6 cm等3种松量为例,探讨常用的不同特性针织面料在松量不同时服装原型各部位及胸部浮余量、肩背部浮余量的变化规律,介绍了试验方法与步骤,并对结果进行分析,为解决工业化针织服装生产中的胸围加放量与肩、胸省关系,面料弹性性能与肩、胸省关系等问题提供参考.     

针织面料特性对服装造型及结构设计的影响

针织面料因具有拉伸性、脱散性、透气性、吸湿性、回缩性、卷边性等特性,制作服装时给服装款式造型和结构设计带来一定影响.文中探讨了利用针织面料特性进行款式造型设计和结构设计的方法,以及一些具体实用的经验.     

“纯真烂漫”针织服装的设计与制作

结合针织服装设计与梭织服装设计,以及穿着对象特点,在分析面料的基础上,介绍了两款针织服装设计的灵感来源、色彩、面料、样板设计和缝制工艺。     

无缝针织结构参数与服装尺寸的预测

 针对无缝针织产品常用经验法设计,具有盲目试探性,费时费力的问题,通过对无缝针织物的密度和面密度等结构参数和成品服装尺寸的测试,分析影响织物结构和成衣尺寸的主要因素,包括原料种类、成品面密度、组织结构和织机型号．发现在相同的织物组织和加工工艺下,原料的下机回缩率和成品面密度决定了无缝针织产品织物的紧密度,成衣尺寸则由织物的组织结构、紧密度和织机型号决定。同时研究了结构参数与成衣尺寸之间的定量对应关系,实现了基于原料种类、织物面密度、组织结构和织机型号的无缝针织服装面料结构参数与成品尺寸的预测。     

The design and development of an illuminated polymeric optical fibre (POF) knitted garment

Abstract

This paper presents a new design and development process for integrating illuminated Polymeric Optical Fibre (POF) into knitted garments, by incorporating POF directly into the looped structure. Fully-fashioned knitting is presented as a means of overcoming garment design restrictions in existing works. A key challenge this work addresses is the creation of more appealing and fashionable form-fitting illuminated POF garments. The resultant work, a tight-fitting knitted raglan sleeve jumper with a section of knitted POF demonstrates that new aesthetics can be achieved, with our new technique. This project builds on existing research into POF integration into fashion and textiles, whilst challenging the existing view that POF cannot be formed into a looped structure. This project used a hand flat knitting machine to produce the knitted POF garment, to balance the benefits of using handcraft techniques for challenging fibres, with the faster knitting speed better associated with using knitting machines.     

全成形双层结构针织服装工艺模型研究与应用

为深入探讨全成形针织服装复杂款式结构,丰富全成形针织服装款式样板,研究了四针床全成形双层结构针织服装设计方法及编织工艺。在四针床全成形单层结构服装研究基础上,通过分析体型特征、人体运动松量和服装原型特征,设计出双层结构服装原型纸样。针对此纸样设计出一款典型双层结构上装,对其版型设计、工艺方法和成形原理进行分析。结果表明:从单层结构服装到双层结构服装转化过程中,里外层结构通过一体成形编织工艺形成款式造型;连接处模型有O型、X型、H型、XO型4种方式保持衣身平衡,以确保里外层连接处尺寸差的精确调整;细部模型通过集圈编织、局部编织形成;根据编织工艺参数及里外层服装在结构上的差异可得到适合人体曲线的全成形双层结构服装。     

“樱花落”系列针织服装设计与制作

介绍了“樱花落”系列针织服装的设计与制作过程。阐述了服装设计的灵感来源、面料选择、颜色搭配、款式设计、制版与缝制工艺,展示了此系列服装的成衣效果及服装特点。     

刺绣纹样在针织服装上的技术应用

在现代服装造型设计和装饰设计上,复古的设计点越来越受到追捧,刺绣纹样的应用就是其中最受欢迎的一种方式.而在针织服装上应用和表现刺绣纹样要受到针织面料的限制和技术上的影响,最终在表现的风格上也会出现与众不同的效果.     

34—THE CONTROL OF THE SHAPE AND DIMENSIONS OF KNITTED WOOL FABRICS

An account is given of an investigation of the use of steam treatments as a means of controlling the shape and dimensions of plain-knitted wool fabrics, firstly by allowing the fabric to relax towards its dimensionally stable state during steaming and secondly by steam-setting the fabric while it is held at a predetermined width. This steam-setting procedure is compared with two permanent-setting treatments for wool—a chemical-setting treatment and setting in boiling water.

Of the two methods of producing a dimensionally stable fabric, namely, by relaxation and by setting, the relaxation method is by far the more effective. The most important result of this work is that knitted wool fabrics—whether unset, steam-set, or permanently set—will always approach their completely relaxed shape and dimensions after only a couple of minutes' gentle agitation in water. It is concluded that conventional methods of shaping knitted wool fabrics and garments, which rely principally on steam-setting the fabric or garment to a size and shape different from its relaxed size and shape, are not likely to produce garments that have good dimensional stability and good shape-retention properties.

The ineffectiveness of permanent-setting agents in producing dimensionally stable knitted garments is contrasted with the relative effectiveness of these agents in producing pleats and permanent creases in wool cloths. This difference in behaviour is explained in terms of the different levels of individual fibre strains involved.     

Finite element modelling the mechanical performance of pressure garments produced from elastic weft knitted fabrics

Compression garments mainly produced from elastic knitted fabrics have attracted many attentions due to their medical care performances. Components’ characteristics of the pressure garments such as yarn and fabric structure affect significantly the pressure applied on the human body. In this paper, it is aimed to simulate the effect of yarn’s mechanical properties as well as fabric structure on mechanical performance of the compression garment. For this purpose, a precise geometrical model for fabric structure is needed by which the pressure applied to the body could be predicted. Accordingly, double jersey knitted fabrics containing elastane weft yarns were produced on an electronic flat knitting machine and the fabric tensile properties were measured in course direction. Using equations governing the fabric structural unit-cell, a real geometric model was created in a finite element software environment. Considering the linear visco-elastic properties for elastane weft yarn, stress-strain curve was extracted. The results obtained from numerical simulation were compared with the experimental data in order to validate the proposed geometrical model. The findings demonstrate a good agreement between experimental and simulation results.     

立体成型系列针织服装设计与制作

介绍了立体成型针织服装的理念、趋势和可实现性,通过对两款针织夏装的款式、配色、工艺的设计,以及在横机上织造,展示了服装的着装效果。     

具有特殊保护性能的间隔织物

本文介绍了针织阻燃三维间隔织物用于贴身防护服装的进展。这种织物应用范围广泛，它采用阻燃材料，有些织物采用了完全新颖的组织和结构，这些措施使织物适合贴身穿着。三维纺织结构意味着在织物的两面之间可形成一空气隔热经保护了着装者不受热气的影响，同时也保证了服装的透气性和舒适性。