Some challenges in modern hair colour formulations

Formulation of hair coloring product involves two stages, first a development of product base followed by formulation of desired shade. During that process a special consideration needs to be given to a whole range of product characteristics such as dye stability in the product medium, colour wearability on hair, light fading and finally rheology of the product. This paper reviews improvement in permanent coloring products as it relates to dye and base composition. Examples are shown where a reduction or elimination of certain dyes, m-phenylenediamine or sodium picramate, improves long term stability and product performance on hair. In cases when only reduction of the dyes was carried out, improvement in stability was achieved through their use as secondary colour contributors and not as primary ones. There are also other composition aspects that impact colour performance of the final product. For example, pH of the coloring mixture has a pronounced effect on the final colour developed in hair. It is shown that a shift in tonality caused by pH change can be predicted for finished product using a simple system composed of the main coupler-intermediate pair employed in the product. The colour response to pH change of this simple system was found to mirror that of the product. This predictability can be used as a formulation tool to develop more efficient dye systems. Effects of some functional materials on colour result such as propylene glycol, ascorbic acid or silicone are also shown.     

Dyeing behaviours of amino heterocyclic compounds as blue oxidative hair dye precursors applied to keratin fibres

Several novel heterocyclic compounds based on 1,2,3,4-tetrahydroquinoline and 2,3-dihydroindole have been investigated for their application of colour keratin fibres as blue oxidative dye precursors, especially to human hair. The colourants we studied contained anyone of these dyes (concentration range from 0.005% to 6%), and some common oxidative hair dyes, such as p-phenylenediamine, toluene-2,5-diamine sulphate. Experiments were carried out on the method of mixing hair colourants with H(2)O(2) gel at the ratio of 1 : 1, accompanied by pH = 8～11. It is demonstrated that 1,2,3,4-tetrahydroquinoline derivatives could be considered as an excellent candidate for blue dyes, and N-methyl-7-amino-1,2,3,4-tetrahydroquinoline is the most outstanding one among this kind of compounds. They own significant advantages of colour purity, stability and fastness. On the other hand, 2,3-dihydroindoles show the similar colours but not stable and brilliant enough.     

Significance of hair‐dye base‐induced sensory irritation

Oxidation hair ‐ dyes, which are the principal hair ‐ dyes, sometimes induce painful sensory irritation of the scalp caused by the combination of highly reactive substances, such as hydrogen peroxide and alkali agents. Although many cases of severe facial and scalp dermatitis have been reported following the use of hair ‐ dyes, sensory irritation caused by contact of the hair ‐ dye with the skin has not been reported clearly. In this study, we used a self‐assessment questionnaire to measure the sensory irritation in various regions of the body caused by two model hair‐dye bases that contained different amounts of alkali agents without dyes. Moreover, the occipital region was found as an alternative region of the scalp to test for sensory irritation of the hair‐dye bases. We used this region to evaluate the relationship of sensitivity with skin properties, such as trans‐epidermal water loss (TEWL), stratum corneum water content, sebum amount, surface temperature, current perception threshold (CPT), catalase activities in tape‐stripped skin and sensory irritation score with the model hair‐dye bases. The hair‐dye sensitive group showed higher TEWL, a lower sebum amount, a lower surface temperature and higher catalase activity than the insensitive group, and was similar to that of damaged skin. These results suggest that sensory irritation caused by hair ‐ dye could occur easily on the damaged dry scalp, as that caused by skin cosmetics reported previously.     

改性戊二醛鞣革染色性能研究

采用酸性和碱性染料对改性戊二醛鞣制皮革的染色性质进行了研究。通过改变染色初始pH、温度、时间、染料浓度、液比以及固色条件,研究了影响改性戊二醛鞣制皮革染色的因素,确定了染色的最佳条件。结果表明:①碱性染料与酸性染料相比,碱性染料更适合改性戊二醛鞣革的染色。②染色前调节皮革及染浴的pH值是必要的。pH 4.0～4.7为碱性染料的最佳染色pH。③染色时应控制温度在40℃左右,染料的用量为2%,液比为2。④在pH4.0～4.7下染色60 min,然后逐渐加碱至pH5.5左右进行固色30～40 min。     

染色PA/CD-PA交织物的染料应用特点

采用酸性、活性和阳离子染料对锦纶/阳离子染料可染锦纶(PA/CD-PA)交织物染色,研究染浴pH值对这三类染料染色的影响,不同结构活性染料对交织物的染色情况,以及这三类染料的染色牢度.结果表明,三类染料受pH值影响均较大,染浴合适的pH值均为5左右;活性染料对CD-PA纤维的沾色因其结构不同而存在差异,磺酸基含量较少沾色相对较小;酸性和活性染料在交织物上的各项染色牢度较好,阳离子染料在交织物上的耐光和耐洗色牢度均不理想.     

Effect of cationic charge and hydrophobic index of cellulose‐based polymers on the semipermanent dyestuff process for hair

In this work, the effects of a new class of polymers generally used in hair and skin cleansing products, the SoftCAT (SofCAT SL and SoftCAT SX), on the dye uptake on the hair fibre and the fading effects has been studied. These polymers, based on quaternary ammonium salts of hydroxyethylcellulose, are cationic products that differ in viscosity, hydrophobic substitution index (HS) and/or cationic substitution (CS, % N). UV–Vis spectroscopy has been used to analyse the extracted dyes from the hair cuticle and the cortex. The results indicate that the presence of polymers in the dye bath improve both the quality of the dyeing process and the anti‐fading effect during the washing cycles. This phenomenon is postulated to be attributable to the polymers hydrophobically bonding with the dyes and so facilitating their increased penetration into the hair.     

一氯均三嗪型染料与蚕丝纤维键合的HPLC研究

采用高效液相色谱法定量研究一氯均三嗪型活性染料与酪氨酸模拟蚕丝纤维的结合情况,从而探讨活性染料与蚕丝纤维的键合机制。通过测定不同温度、pH值条件下染料的水解和酪氨酸的电离色谱峰面积,对活性染料与酪氨酸结合情况进行研究。结果表明:活性染料的水解量与色谱峰面积有较好的线性关系;活性染料与蚕丝纤维的模拟物酪氨酸的反应程度与酪氨酸的电离率及未水解的活性染料两者均有关,在pH值为9.5、温度85℃附近,活性红K-2BP与酪氨酸的结合率最大。     

Sorption of basic dyes onto iron humate

Iron humate (IH) was examined as a new low-cost sorbent for removing basic dyes (Methylene Blue, Methyl Violet, Crystal Violet, Malachite Green, and Rhodamine B) from waters. The sorption of the dyes from aqueous solutions was described by a multisite Langmuir isotherm; the sorption capacities ranging from ca. 0.01 to 0.09 mmol/g were calculated from the parameters of the isotherm for individual dyes. A more detailed study was carried out with Methylene Blue to examine an influence of the composition of aqueous phase on the sorption. pH and the presence of inorganic salts have only minor effects on the sorption. The presence of anionic surfactant (sodium dodecyl sulfate, SDS) increases dramatically the sorption of Methylene Blue. A model describing the sorption of basic (cationic) dyes in the presence of anionic surfactants was proposed; two main mechanisms are considered in this model: the sorption of cationic dyes onto the polar (or cation-exchange) active sites and the sorption of relatively small dye-surfactant aggregates onto the nonpolar part of the sorbent. Experimental dependencies comply well with those predicted from the model. Both in the presence as well as in the absence of SDS, the dye sorption proceeds relatively quickly--most of the dye is sorbed within the first several hours. Leachability of the dye from the loaded sorbent was found to be very low, especially with water as leachant.     

Function of surfactants in hair dyeing by oxidation dyes 2. Effect on formation of oxidation dyes by p-aminophenol and 5-amino-o-cresol in dye bath(1)

The effect of surfactants on an oxidation-hair-dye-formation reaction in a dye bath was studied in order to learn the mechanism of the effect of surfactants on the dyeability of hair by the oxidation dye. The dye-formation behaviours for the p-aminophenol and 5-amino-o-cresol system with the surfactants, of which the hydrophilic parts have different charges, were compared changing the concentration of surfactants. It was found that the same dyes are produced, regardless of the charge of surfactants added, and the rate of dye produced in the dyebath is increased in the presence of surfactants. The order of the production rate is, with an anionic surfactant > with non-ionic surfactant > with cationic surfactant > without surfactant. The relation between the dyeability of hair and the rate of dye produced in the dyebath in the presence of surfactants is not found. The major factor governing the dyeability of hair is different from the mechanism of the increased dye in the solution. It was also found that the dye-formation rate is increased by immersing hair into the reaction solution, and hair works as an accelerator for the dye-formation reaction.     

染发剂中对苯二胺等32种染料检测结果分析

目的了解染发剂中染料使用情况和染发剂类化妆品安全风险点,为监管提供技术支撑。方法根据《化妆品安全技术规范》(2015年版),采用高效液相色谱法和超高效液相色谱-串联质谱法对湖南地区14个市、州地区抽样的50批染发剂类化妆品进行检测,分析其中染料种类、含量及使用情况。结果 50批染发剂共检出对苯二胺、对氨基苯酚等14种染料成分,其中对苯二胺、间氨基苯酚、间苯二酚3种染料的使用频率最高,均超过了60%。有2批染料的苯基甲基吡唑啉酮超出规定限量,其余均未超标。19批染发剂产品批件标识成分与实际检出结果不一致,不合格率为38%。结论染发剂使用情况及批件标识有待规范,应加强对染发剂类产品的监管。     

黄麻纤维活性炭对亚甲基蓝和甲基橙溶液的吸附性能研究

以黄麻纤维为原料,采用磷酸活化法制得黄麻纤维活性炭作为吸附剂,以纺织印染加工中较为常用的亚甲基蓝(MB)和甲基橙(MO)染料溶液为吸附质,研究染料溶液初始浓度、活性炭投加量、吸附时间等因素对黄麻纤维活性炭吸附性能的影响。结果表明:随着染料溶液初始浓度的增加,两种染料的去除率逐渐降低,吸附量逐渐增大;随着活性炭投加量的增加和吸附时间的延长,两种染料的去除率和吸附量均呈现逐渐增大的变化规律;水浴温度对两种染料的去除率和吸附量影响都较小;染料溶液pH值对两种染料吸附性能的影响存在较大差异,MB的去除率和吸附量随染料溶液pH值增加而增大,而MO的去除率和吸附量随之减小。     

提高棉织物低带液量下活性染料的固色率

活性染料在低带液量条件下具有较高的固色率,为进一步了解低带液量时影响活性染料固色率的因素,试验探讨了棉织物带液量、Na₂CO₃质量浓度、固色温度、固色时间、Na₂SO₄加入量和加入方式、染料上染量、染料直接性对固色率的影响。结果表明:棉织物在带液量为25%～35%时,染料的固色率最高;碱剂量、固色时间、固色温度、上染量对染料水解影响较小。在低带液量下,染料在纤维上的分布状态与染料结构是影响固色率的主要因素,进入纤维内部的染料可实现内部扩散和固色,较难发生水解。染料直接性越大,活性基团活性越高且数量越多,染料固色率就越高。     

No. 4Vol. 42, No. 4, pp. 305–312, 2008The Reaction of Oxidative Hair Dyes in Cuticle Layers

The mechanism of oxidative hair dyes (permanent hair color) in cuticle layers of human hair was studied. In general, it is considered that the oxidative hair dye deposits monomer into the cortex, and is polymerized with coloring in there. It was confirmed that not only cortex but also cuticle layers were dyed with the permanent hair color, through observation with the thin cross-section of the dyed hair. There were exogenous metals in the cuticle layers from tap water etc., and the transition metals increased the dyeing and decreased the bleaching. It was thought that the activity of oxidation reaction with hydrogen peroxide was increased in the cuticle layers, and permeability to the cortex was decreased. Furthermore, TEM findings suggested that the oxidation hair dyes mainly reacted in the β-layer/ δ-layer interface in the cuticle layers, unevenly distributing the metals in the β-layer of cuticular CMC.
Keywords:  hair, oxidative hair dye, hair color, bleach, cuticle, transition metal, ultrastructure, CMC, β-layer, oxidative reaction     

涤纶家纺面料练漂染一浴法工艺研究

通过对涤纶家纺面料在不同pH值的染浴中进行染色,测试染色织物的K/S值及色光的变化,筛选出了20多只耐碱性分散染料,并以其中6只染料为对象,测试了其耐强碱性、耐氧化性和前处理助剂共用在练漂染一浴法工艺下对染料染色性能的影响。研究表明:所测试的6只染料具有优异的耐强碱性和耐氧化性,且与前处理中各助剂共用对染色K/S值和色光无明显影响,有着良好的色牢度。通过练漂染一浴法工艺与涤纶织物常规染色工艺比较,验证了涤纶家纺面料练漂染一浴法工艺切实可行,节能效果显著。     

分散染料在超临界二氧化碳流体中的溶解性

为更好地筛选适用于超临界二氧化碳(ScCO2)流体染色的分散染料,使用状态方程结合基团贡献法和计算化学法,得到不同工况条件及不同染料结构对分散染料在超临界CO2流体中溶解度的影响规律,建立了分散染料在超临界CO2流体中溶解度预测方法.结果表明:不同工况条件会影响分散蓝79染料的溶解度,其中较低的温度和较高的压力对溶解过...     

Effects of arginine on hair damage via oxidative coloring process

Different kinds of silicones were incorporated directly into permanent and semi-permanent hair dyes. To ensure that the silicone was deposited to the hair fibers Si deposition was measured. Hair treated with a silicone free control or the silicone modified hair dyes was tested for color and lightness change (fading) by washing the treated tresses several times and measuring the color change. In a second experiment, hair treated with permanent hair dye was treated with UV radiation to show if silicones can reduce the color change initiated by UV light. The influence of the silicones to dry combing forces of permanent dyed hair untreated and treated with UV was also investigated. The tests showed that dimethiconol/dimethicone mixtures can reduce the washout of hair colorant clearly and silicone resins like trimethylsiloxysilcate or propylphenylsilsesquioxane are able to decrease the color change occurred by UV radiation in dyed hair.     

脱色絮凝剂DFA的合成及其脱色性能

以双氰胺、甲醛、氯化铵为主要原料合成脱色絮凝剂DFA。研究了其对含活性、直接和分散染料废水的脱色效果，考察了DFA投加量、染液pH值、染料浓度等因素对脱色效果的影响。试验结果表明，絮凝剂DFA对各类染料废水各存在最佳投加量，其用量次序为分散染料〈直接染料〈活性染料。废水溶液呈弱酸性及中性时，DFA的脱色效果较好。对不同浓度的染料废水，DFA的最佳脱色率均能达到99％以上。     

活性染料耐汗光复合色牢度的研究

选择12只常用活性染料对纯棉和粘胶织物进行染色，测定其耐汗光复合色牢度、耐光色牢度和汗渍色牢度，系统分析染色浓度、织物类型、汗液组分对活性染料耐汗光复合色牢度的影响。结果表明，染料的耐汗光复合色牢度与耐光色牢度和汗渍色牢度有较大差异；随着染料浓度的增加，耐光色牢度和耐汗光复合色牢度均有所提高；粘胶织物的耐光牢度和耐汗光复合色牢度均高于棉织物；按不同标准配制的人工汗液对活性染料耐汗光复合色牢度的影响也不同，ATTS汗液对耐汗光复合色牢度的影响最大。     

J. Cosmet. Sci., 59, 117–125 (March/April 2008)A dual mechanism of 4-hydroxy-5-methyl-3[2H]-furanone inhibiting cellular melanogenesis

The aim of this study was to investigate the effect of some cellulose polymers mixed in a semipermanent dyestuff on the dye uptake of yak hair fiber and color fading after repeated washing cycles. Two different classes of commercial polymers were tested: non-ionic and cationic. Formulations based on a mixture of HC and basic dyes, with different molecular sizes, were employed as representative dyestuffs. UV-Vis spectroscopy and colorimetric measurements were used to analyze the extracted dyes from the yak hair cuticle and cortex. The results obtained indicate that the presence of cationic polymers in the dye bath improves both the quality of the dyeing process and the anti-fading effect during the first washing cycles.     

阳涤氨汗布面料的染色

采用SD型分散阳离子染料对阳涤氨汗布面料进行留白染色。当染料质量分数为2%、pH值4.5、元明粉1.8 g/L、120℃染色45 min时,染色后的织物色泽鲜艳,各项色牢度均在3.5级以上。采用SD型分散阳离子染料与分散染料对阳涤氨汗布面料进行异色一浴法双染,与传统工艺相比较,缩短了工艺流程,达到节能减排的目的。