Application of TLC and HPTLC in the analysis of semipermanent hair dyes

Semipermanent or direct colouring includes any product capable of affecting to some extent a change in the natural hair colour that will last through at least five shampoo washings. Semipermanent dyes are simple and easy to use, as opposed to oxidation dyes, and are normally formulated for application on nonbleached hair. Following increases in supply of such formulations, we have started an analysis for quality control purposes of 21 commonly marketed dyestuffs (nitroaminobenzenes, anthraquinone and Arianor dyes) and 20 colouring products manufactured by four leading companies. By using TLC (silica gel and reversed phase) and HPTLC (silica gel) procedures we have determined relative retention values to 1,3-diamino-4-nitrobenzene of standards and dyes found in the commercial products. All the values reported (standards and samples) are the average of five analytical results (+/-SD).     

Effect of cationic charge and hydrophobic index of cellulose‐based polymers on the semipermanent dyestuff process for hair

In this work, the effects of a new class of polymers generally used in hair and skin cleansing products, the SoftCAT (SofCAT SL and SoftCAT SX), on the dye uptake on the hair fibre and the fading effects has been studied. These polymers, based on quaternary ammonium salts of hydroxyethylcellulose, are cationic products that differ in viscosity, hydrophobic substitution index (HS) and/or cationic substitution (CS, % N). UV–Vis spectroscopy has been used to analyse the extracted dyes from the hair cuticle and the cortex. The results indicate that the presence of polymers in the dye bath improve both the quality of the dyeing process and the anti‐fading effect during the washing cycles. This phenomenon is postulated to be attributable to the polymers hydrophobically bonding with the dyes and so facilitating their increased penetration into the hair.     

Application of high-performance liquid chromatography in the analysis of direct dyes in semipermanent hair colouring cosmetics

A method for the identification and the quantification of direct dyes in semipermanent hair colouring cosmetics by using a reversed phase high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) with gradient elution and diode array detector (DAD) detection is presented. A standard mixture of 18 commonly marketed dyestuffs (11 nitroderivatives, two anthraquinones and five Arianor dyes) was studied. The major problems in the analysis of the mixture of direct dyes is the different chemical structure and especially the wide range of polarities. However we succeeded in the complete separation of the standard dyes. A qualitative analysis of eight colouring commercial products selected from different shades and a quantitative analysis of three of them was carried out. Materials, methods and results are reported.     

真丝绸尤纳素活性染料染色工艺

采用尤纳素系列活性染料染真丝绸，探讨了pH值、元明粉用量、固色温度和固色时间等因素对染色效果的影响。结果表明，尤纳素系列活性染料染真丝绸的上染率、固着率和总固着效率均较高，且各项染色牢度也较好。最佳染色工艺为：元明粉80g／L，pH值8，室温入染，升温至80℃，保温固色45—60min。     

活性染料冷轧堆染色工艺

对活性染料冷轧堆染色工艺的主要问题，如染料的选择、工艺控制、存在问题及解决方法等，并结合生产，对缩小大小样差异等问题进行了探讨。     

筒纱活性染料受控染色

介绍筒纱活性染料受控染色工艺，包括染料的选择，染料与盐、碱的配比，染色条件的控制，以及高温高压筒子染色机应具备的特点和应用性能，并对具体操作提出了要求。     

牛奶蛋白纤维的活性染料染色研究

采用Lanasol型活性染 料对牛奶蛋白纤维进行染色.研究牛奶蛋白纤维经亚铁盐预处理和双氧水漂白后,在不同染色条件下,对染色性能的影响.采用单因素分析方法,对染色过程中影响上染的各项因素,如温度、pH值、盐用量等进行分析,从而提出较适宜的染色工艺,染色效果优良.牛奶蛋白纤维用Lanasol型活性染料的染色工艺为：染料用量1.5%（owf）,匀染剂Albegal B1%,元明粉40g/L,用HAc调节pH值,并采用pH值滑动工艺,在90℃染60min.     

纯棉针织物的活性染料"一次准"染色工艺探讨

为实现活性染料对纯棉针织物“一次准”染色，在前处理、染色工艺方面进行改进。前处理采用非烧碱氧漂特效助剂＋双氧水；染色前采用脱氧酶去除织物上残留的双氧水，减少漂后水洗次数，缩短工艺流程；改进传统染色升温、加料方法。详细论述了生产中各个工序的技术管理要求，加强对染化料助剂库、化验室和染色等工序的严格管理，是实施染色“一次准”的基础。     

解决绒类织物活性染料轧染露底问题

探讨了食盐对活性染料直接性的影响,以及在常温和(50±2)℃下染液加入食盐后的稳定性,并确定了食盐的最佳用量。通过大车生产实践,例举了纬弹灯芯绒深棕、浅棕品种轧染染色处方及色牢度测试结果。结果表明,染液中加入50 g/L的食盐,可提高染料对纤维的直接性,有效改善绒类织物活性染料轧染露底的现象。     

天然染料对阳离子改性棉针织物的无媒染色实践

棉针织物用阳离子改性剂D-W改性后，进行天然染料染色。其优化的染色工艺条件为：95℃染色40～60min。该工艺不需添加媒染剂，上染率可达到80％以上，且染浅、中、深各颜色都能获得较好的染色效果，色牢度也较高。     

棉织物的天然染料媒染工艺研究

以稀土为媒染剂，研究了绿茶、紫苏、甘蓝等天然染料对棉织物的染色工艺。采用轧染法和浸染法（预媒、同浴、后媒染色法）工艺对棉织物染色，并与其它媒染剂（单宁酸、硫酸亚铁、明矾）作比较。结果表明，采用稀土媒染轧染工艺效果较好，文中给出了天然染料用稀土媒染棉织物的染色工艺条件。     

大豆蛋白质纤维的B型活性染料染色工艺

针对大豆蛋白质纤维的物理和化学性能，采用B型活性染料染大豆蛋白质纤维。研究了染色过程中温度、盐类、碱剂和浴比等诸因素对染色效果的影响，优选了最佳工艺方案。结果表明，B型活性染料用于大豆蛋白质纤维染色具有很好的染深性、鲜艳度和较高的染色牢度。     

拉伸细化牦牛毛的表面性能与染色性

拉伸细化后牦牛毛表观形态及内部结构均发生变化,必将影响细化后纤维的表面性能与染色性.实验结果表明:纤维拉伸细化后接触角减小,吸湿性增加.细化后纤维的染色性能更加优异,细化毛平衡上染率明显高于原毛,随拉伸率增加,纤维上染速率加快,平衡上染率提高,且拉伸细化处理可以降低牦牛毛的染色温度.     

代用碱在纯棉筒子纱活性染色中的应用

探讨了固色代用碱简易替DS在纯棉筒子纱活性染料染色中的应用，分析了元明粉用量、代用碱用量、固色温度、固色时间等工艺因素对染色效果的影响，通过工艺因素水平及正交试验，优化了代用碱在纯棉筒子纱活性染料染色中的工艺条件。试验结果表明，简易替DS用量少、化料简便、在染液中分散均匀，固色效果与传统碱剂相当，可取代传统的纯碱固色工艺。     

The mutagenicity and carcinogenicity of hair dyes

A number of the constituents of semi-permanent and permanent hair dyes have been shown to be mutagenic in bacteria, to induce mutation, chromosome breakage, sister chromatid exchanges and malignant transformation in mammalian cells, to cause mutation in Drosophila , to induce mitotic recombination in yeast and to induce tumours in rodents. Some hair dye ingredients and commercial dyes have been shown to give rise, in the urine of treated rats, to metabolites which are also mutagenic in bacteria.
The test systems used are briefly described and the data generated are reviewed. In addition, attempts to identify whether the hazards predicted from the laboratory studies present a risk to man either by epidemiological studies or monitoring of exposed populations are also discussed.
La mutagenese et la carcinogenese des colorants capillaires     

Investigating the relationship between the hair fiber proteome and hair quality

Many hair characteristics (e.g. color and curl) are genetically determined. Here, we investigated whether hair quality is also genetically controlled and related to differences in hair composition. Female, Caucasian subjects ( n  = 292) were recruited into this study and segmented by self-perceived hair quality and by permanent colorant usage. Hair fibers were collected and characterized by amino acid analysis, dry tensile elastic modulus testing and two-dimensional electrophoresis of hair protein extracts.
Protein analysis revealed a string of 66 kDa proteins that correlated with hair of high quality. Loss of low molecular weight (14–29 kDa) proteins increased with colorant usage, particularly in hair of low quality. Amino acid analysis showed that the levels of serine and threonine across all the subjects followed bimodal frequency distributions suggestive of a genetic influence. Overall, data suggested that perception of quality was linked to high serine and threonine levels. In addition, where hair was colored, quality was associated with lower cysteic acid levels. Lower cysteic acid levels were not linked to lower colorant usage and our data suggest that high quality hair may be more resistant to colorant damage. Elastic modulus was significantly higher in hair of higher quality (4.65 GPa) compared to all medium and low quality hair combined (4.3 GPa), P  < 0.02. This suggests a link between altered hair composition and mechanical properties. In conclusion, the composition and mechanical properties of hair have been linked to hair quality. We hypothesize that hair quality is thus likely to be genetically determined. Understanding of the links between hair composition and its properties could be utilized in the future for designing products targeted to each individual's hair make-up, and for producing diagnostic tools for determining hair quality.     

Percutaneous absorption of p-phenylene diamine during an actual hair dyeing procedure

An analytical method has been developed that allows the determination of p-phenylene diamine derivatives in urinary samples collected from women after hair dyeing with commercial formulations. During an on-line flash hydrolysis of the urine, a number of metabolites of p-phenylene diamine were hydrolyzed to free p-phenylene diamine, which was then determined using gas chromatography-mass spectrometry. The excretion of metabolites of p-phenylene diamine could be followed during 24 or 48 hours after the dye had been applied. Most of the p-phenylene diamine cleaved by the flash hydrolysis procedure was, in fact, involved in the N,N'-diacetyl combination. The dose excretion for p-phenylene diamine as measured by this method was comparable to that found by other authors who made use of radioactively labelled material. The present analytical method can be used to evaluate procedures intended to decrease the percutaneous absorption of p-phenylene diamine. Thus, a five- to ten-fold decrease in its penetration was observed by protecting the scalp with clay before applying the dyeing composition.     

高耐光牢度红色活性染料的轧染应用

活性染料耐光牢度问题常见于三原色中的红色组分，其相对较低的耐光牢度，导致三原色组合整体耐光牢度的下降。文章从筛选染料人手，阐述了当前高耐光牢度红色活性染料的发展与现状；结合生产实践，介绍高耐光牢度红色活性染料应用在轧染工艺中的实践情况。     

天然染料染色坝状及其理论

介绍了天然染料的性质及其色素分类。并综合国内外对天然染料的研究成果，对其染色热力学和动力学进行了简单的讨论．将二者的研究相结合就可以获得其染色机理，这对上染过程控制、染色效果预测及染色工艺的确定与优化具有十分重要的指导意义．发现了天然染料对纤维和织物的上染与合成染料一样，也可归属于3种吸附类型，多数天然染料上染纤维或织物的过程是吸热和熵增的过程，与合成染料的上染情况相反．     

免水洗或少水洗印花和染色用WCD系列分散染料的应用

浙江龙盛染料化工有限公司开发的分散WCD系列色浆染料,使纯涤面料的免水洗或少水洗印花和热熔染色成为可能,能大幅度减少生产过程中的污水排放,提高生产效率。