The colour of the human skin: fruitful science,unsuitable wordings

A review of the various facets of the colour of human skin is proposed. It aims first at illustrating the paradoxical association of the remarkable recent scientific advances that characterize changes in the skin colour, with some totally inappropriate or outdated phrasings used in its communication. As a second objective, it aims at proposing an alternative to these wordings. The latter would combine six shade types, defined by Individual Type Angle (ITA) values, a coloured reference chart and associated colour adjectives, highly corresponding to the six Phototypes previously defined by Fitzpatrick. Such alternative would overcome most references to both ethnic‐ and ethical‐related issues.     

Oxidization of squalene,a human skin lipid: a new and reliable marker of environmental pollution studies

A review of the oxidization of squalene, a specific human compound produced by the sebaceous gland, is proposed. Such chemical transformation induces important consequences at various levels. Squalene by‐products, mostly under peroxidized forms, lead to comedogenesis, contribute to the development of inflammatory acne and possibly modify the skin relief (wrinkling). Experimental conditions of oxidation and/or photo‐oxidation mechanisms are exposed, suggesting that they could possibly be bio‐markers of atmospheric pollution upon skin. Ozone, long UVA rays, cigarette smoke… are shown powerful oxidizing agents of squalene. Some in vitro, ex vivo and in vivo testings are proposed as examples, aiming at studying ingredients or products capable of boosting or counteracting such chemical changes that, globally, bring adverse effects to various cutaneous compartments.     

Effects of aloesin on melanogenesis in pigmented skin equivalents

Reconstituted 3-dimensional human skin equivalents in vitro are gaining popularity for studies of skin metabolism and depigmenting agents because they exhibit morphological and growth characteristics similar to human skin. The effects of aloesin on melanogenesis, however, have never been examined with the pigmented skin equivalent. The purpose of the study was to construct the skin equivalent and observe the effects of aloesin on melanogenesis in the model. We constructed an in vitro pigmented skin equivalent and examined the general structure and condition of the pigmented skin equivalent with H&E staining and Fontana Masson staining. Then, we examined the effects of aloesin on tyrosinase activity and formation of melanin in the model. Such a pigmented skin model demonstrated morphology similar to that seen in normal skin and can be used to assess the regulation of pigmentation by melanogenic compounds. The results suggested that aloesin had direct inhibitory effects on melanogenesis and showed dose-dependent reductions in tyrosinase activity (P < 0.05) and melanin content (P < 0.05). In conclusion, our study indicated that skin equivalents provided a convenient and cost-effective alternative to animal testing for evaluating the regulation of pigmentation. Aloesin showed promise as a pigmentation-altering agent for cosmetic or therapeutic applications.     

Intrinsic and extrinsic factors in skin ageing: a review

As the proportion of the ageing population in industrialized countries continues to increase, the dermatological concerns of the aged grow in medical importance. Intrinsic structural changes occur as a natural consequence of ageing and are genetically determined. The rate of ageing is significantly different among different populations, as well as among different anatomical sites even within a single individual. The intrinsic rate of skin ageing in any individual can also be dramatically influenced by personal and environmental factors, particularly the amount of exposure to ultraviolet light. Photodamage, which considerably accelerates the visible ageing of skin, also greatly increases the risk of cutaneous neoplasms. As the population ages, dermatological focus must shift from ameliorating the cosmetic consequences of skin ageing to decreasing the genuine morbidity associated with problems of the ageing skin. A better understanding of both the intrinsic and extrinsic influences on the ageing of the skin, as well as distinguishing the retractable aspects of cutaneous ageing (primarily hormonal and lifestyle influences) from the irretractable (primarily intrinsic ageing), is crucial to this endeavour.     

The melanogenesis and mechanisms of skin-lightening agents--existing and new approaches

Skin-lightening products are commercially available for cosmetic purposes to obtain lighter skin complexion. Clinically, they are also used for treatment of hyperpigmentary disorders such as melasma, café au lait spot and solar lentigo. All of these target naturally melanin production, and many of the commonly used agents are known as competitive inhibitors of tyrosinase, one of the key enzymes in melanogenesis. In this review, we present an overview of commonly used skin-whitening ingredients that are commercialized, but we also hypothesize on other mechanisms that could be important targets to control skin pigmentation such as for example regulation of the adrenergic and glutaminergic signalling and also control of tetrahydrobiopterins in the human skin.     

Elastin structure and its involvement in skin photoageing

Skin aging is a complex process that may be caused by factors that are intrinsic and extrinsic to the body. Ultraviolet (UV) radiation represents one of the main sources of skin damage over the years and characterizes a process known as photoaging. Among the changes that affect cutaneous tissue with age, the loss of elastic properties caused by changes in elastin production, increased degradation and/or processing produces a substantial impact on tissue esthetics and health. The occurrence of solar elastosis is one of the main markers of cutaneous photoaging and is characterized by disorganized and non‐functional deposition of elastic fibers. The occurrence of UV radiation‐induced alternative splicing of the elastin gene, which leads to inadequate synthesis of the proteins required for the correct assembly of elastic fibers, is a potential explanation for this phenomenon. Innovative studies have been fundamental for the elucidation of rarely explored photoaging mechanisms and have enabled the identification of effective therapeutic alternatives such as cosmetic products. This review addresses cutaneous photoaging and the changes that affect elastin in this process.