Parametric design of garment pattern based on body dimensions

Garment pattern-making is one of the most important parts in fashion design and production. However, the traditional pattern-making is an experience based work and very time-consuming. In this paper, we proposed a parametric design method of garment pattern based on body dimensions. Based on this method, we constructed a jeans' pattern recommendation system. The input items of the proposed system are three geometric constraint parameters (jean silhouette type, length and waist height) and three-dimensional constraint parameters (human body stature, waist girth and hip girth); the output of the proposed system are jeans' patterns. Also, four adjustable parameters (jeans' length, waist height, knee and leg opening) are designed to adjust patterns generated by the proposed system. If the jeans' pattern is not satisfying after virtual or real try-on, the adjustable input parameters of the proposed system can be applied for adjustment until the patterns are acceptable. Our proposed system can combine traditional pattern-making methods to generate jeans’ patterns automatically and rapidly, hence improving pattern-making efficiency significantly.     

Parametric 3D modeling of young women's lower bodies based on shape classification

Three-dimensional (3D) human body modeling is an important research direction in the field of clothing virtual design. On the basis of 3D human body scanning, this paper studied a method to build a 3D parametric lower body model according to body classification. The research includes three main parts. (1) Anthropometry and body shape classification. We randomly selected 333 young women ages 18–25 years old in Northeast China as the experimental sample. Then we divided the lower body shape into three categories using principal component analysis and K-means clustering. (2) Determination of feature cross sections and points, and reconstruction of feature curves. According to the average values of each body type, we obtained the mean reference body by Euclidean distance method. We determined feature cross sections and points, and extracted the 3D coordinates of the feature points of the mean reference body to reconstruct the feature curves. (3) The surface lofting and establishment of parametric 3D lower body model. According to the shape characteristics of the lower body, we constructed the guiding lines for the crotch and lower limbs, and established parametric lower body models for three body types.Relevance to industry3D human modeling is an important part of garment industry digitization. This research provides an effective way to construct a parametric 3D lower body model. The method offers a reference for the parametric virtual human modeling and virtual fitting of trousers.     

A novel approach for fit analysis of thermal protective clothing using three-dimensional body scanning

The garment fit played an important role in protective performance, comfort and mobility. The purpose of this study is to quantify the air gap to quantitatively characterize a three-dimensional (3-D) garment fit using a 3-D body scanning technique. A method for processing of scanned data was developed to investigate the air gap size and distribution between the clothing and human body. The mesh model formed from nude and clothed body was aligned, superimposed and sectioned using Rapidform software. The air gap size and distribution over the body surface were analyzed. The total air volume was also calculated. The effects of fabric properties and garment size on air gap distribution were explored. The results indicated that average air gap of the fit clothing was around 25–30 mm and the overall air gap distribution was similar. The air gap was unevenly distributed over the body and it was strongly associated with the body parts, fabric properties and garment size. The research will help understand the overall clothing fit and its association with protection, thermal and movement comfort, and provide guidelines for clothing engineers to improve thermal performance and reduce physiological burden.     

Research on lower body shape of late pregnant women in Shanghai area of China

Anthropometric data, especially the data of lower body of late-pregnant women, has become an immediate need for ergonomic design of maternity products, such as clothing, related motherhood supplies, maternity support products, and so on. So 55 late pregnant women in Shanghai area of China were randomly selected for this lower body shape research. By anthropometric measurement method 18 dimensions were measured to characterize lower body shape of late pregnant women. Mean values, standard deviations (SD), coefficients of variation, and percentiles for each variable were estimated. It was found that the morphology of hip and abdomen mostly influenced the lower body shape. Then according to the characters of hip and abdomen, the late pregnant women's lower body shapes were divided into two types. Moreover this paper also analyzed the change trend of lower body shape along late pregnancy months (7 to 9th months). As a result of this research, the late pregnant women's lower body shapes were described from different aspects which were thought to provide a guide for the maternity products design.Relevance to industryThe anthropometric data is essential to design reasonable and professional maternity products for late pregnant women, such as maternity support products, maternity clothing and so on. Especially this study can benefit the maternity garment industry. Moreover utilization of the anthropometric data, product designers would be able to outfit to a wider range of target users.     

Scan posture definition and hip girth measurement: the impact on clothing design and body scanning

Abstract

Ergonomic measurement is central to product design and development; especially for body worn products and clothing. However, there is a large variation in measurement definitions, complicated by new body scanning technology that captures measurements in a posture different to traditional manual methods. Investigations of hip measurement definitions in current clothing measurement practices supports analysis of the effect of scan posture and hip measurement definition on the circumferences of the hip. Here, the hip girth is a key clothing measurement that is not defined in current body scanning measurement standards. Sixty-four participants were scanned in the standard scan posture of a [TC]² body scanner, and also in a natural posture similar to that of traditional manual measurement collection. Results indicate that scan posture affects hip girth circumferences, and that some current clothing measurement practices may not define the largest lower body circumference. Recommendations are made concerning how the hip is defined in measurement practice and within body scanning for clothing product development.

Practitioner Summary: The hip girth is an important measurement in garment design, yet its measurement protocol is not currently defined. We demonstrate that body posture during body scanning affects hip circumferences, and that current clothing measurement practices may not define the largest lower body circumference. This paper also provides future measurement practice recommendations.     

面向不同体型特征的服装款式迁移方法

大部分成衣的设计以标准比例的人模作为参照,而对于非标准体型的顾客,标码 服装的大小尺寸则很难与之进行有效匹配。基于此,提出了一种面向不同体型特征的服装款 式迁移方法。首先,对于一批不同款式的服装,通过物理模拟的方式穿着到标模及非标模人 体之上,形成标模试穿的服装实例及非标模试穿的服装实例;其次,使用仿射变换表示同款 服装在标模及非标模下服装实例间的变形映射,并借助主成分分析法求解服装变形,在保留 因体型特征导致的服装形变的基础上,剔除由服装款式信息引起的服装形变;最后,将服装 变形用于标模到非标模的服装款式迁移,并使用平均离散曲率衡量迁移前后服装款式的改变 程度。实验结果表明,迁移后的服装携带了标模服装的款式信息,并保留了非标模服装的体 型特征。     

Optimisation of garment design using fuzzy logic and sensory evaluation techniques

The ease allowance is an important criterion in garment design. It is often taken into account in the process of construction of garment patterns. However, the existing pattern generation methods cannot provide a suitable estimation of ease allowance, which is strongly related to wearer's body shapes and movements and used fabrics. They can only produce 2D patterns for fixed standard values of ease allowance. In this paper, we present a new method for optimizing the estimation of ease allowance of a garment using fuzzy logic and sensory evaluation. Based on the optimized values of ease allowance generated from fuzzy models related to different key body positions and different wearer's movements, we obtain an aggregated ease allowance using the OWA operator. This aggregated result can further improve the wearer's fitting perception of a garment and adjust the compromise between the style of garments and the fitting comfort sensation of wearers. The related weights of the OWA operator are determined according to designer's linguistic criteria on comfort and garment style. The effectiveness of our method has been validated in the design of trousers of jean type. It can be also applied for designing other types of garment.     

Evaluation of the multivariate accommodation performance of the grid method

The present study examined the multivariate accommodation performance (MAP) of the grid method, a distributed representative human models (RHM) generation method, in the context of men’s pants sizing system design. Using the 1988 US Army male anthropometric data and ±2.5 cm of fitting tolerance, the grid method selected two key dimensions (waist girth and crotch height) out of 12 anthropometric dimensions and identified 25 RHMs to accommodate 95% of the population. The average MAP of the RHMs decreased dramatically as the number of anthropometric dimensions considered increased (99% for single dimension and 14% for 12 dimensions). A standardized regression model was established which explains the effects of two factors (sum of anthropometric dimension ranges; adjusted R² between key dimensions and other anthropometric dimensions) on the MAP of RHMs. This regression model can be used to prioritize anthropometric dimensions for efficient MAP improvement of men’s pants design.     

Evaluation of the multivariate accommodation performance of the grid method

The present study examined the multivariate accommodation performance (MAP) of the grid method, a distributed representative human models (RHM) generation method, in the context of men’s pants sizing system design. Using the 1988 US Army male anthropometric data and ±2.5 cm of fitting tolerance, the grid method selected two key dimensions (waist girth and crotch height) out of 12 anthropometric dimensions and identified 25 RHMs to accommodate 95% of the population. The average MAP of the RHMs decreased dramatically as the number of anthropometric dimensions considered increased (99% for single dimension and 14% for 12 dimensions). A standardized regression model was established which explains the effects of two factors (sum of anthropometric dimension ranges; adjusted R² between key dimensions and other anthropometric dimensions) on the MAP of RHMs. This regression model can be used to prioritize anthropometric dimensions for efficient MAP improvement of men’s pants design.     

Learning‐Based Animation of Clothing for Virtual Try‐On

This paper presents a learning‐based clothing animation method for highly efficient virtual try‐on simulation. Given a garment, we preprocess a rich database of physically‐based dressed character simulations, for multiple body shapes and animations. Then, using this database, we train a learning‐based model of cloth drape and wrinkles, as a function of body shape and dynamics. We propose a model that separates global garment fit, due to body shape, from local garment wrinkles, due to both pose dynamics and body shape. We use a recurrent neural network to regress garment wrinkles, and we achieve highly plausible nonlinear effects, in contrast to the blending artifacts suffered by previous methods. At runtime, dynamic virtual try‐on animations are produced in just a few milliseconds for garments with thousands of triangles. We show qualitative and quantitative analysis of results.     

Secular changes in body dimensions of Royal Australian Air Force aircrew (1971–2005)

The aim of this study was to quantify the secular changes in body dimensions of Royal Australian Air Force aircrew. Following corrections for methodological differences, two samples (matched for age and overall body size) of male aircrew measured in 1971 (n = 220) and 2005 (n = 220) were compared across 13 absolute and proportional body dimensions. Changes in means were expressed as standardised effect sizes and changes in distributional characteristics were expressed as the ratio of coefficients of variation and as changes in skew. Small secular increases (standardised effects sizes >0.2) in age-matched aircrew were observed for mass, height, BMI, sitting height, buttock–knee length, waist girth, hip girth and waist:hip ratio, with a small decline observed for head girth. Changes in body dimensions were not independent of changes in overall body size (except for head girth) and were not always uniform across the distribution. These changes in body size have implications for ensuring correct human–machine and human–equipment fit.

Statement of Relevance: There have been small secular changes in body dimensions of RAAF aircrew between 1971 and 2005, although these secular changes have not always been uniform across the distribution. These secular changes in body dimensions have implications for ensuring correct human–machine and human–equipment fit and underscore the need for regular anthropometric surveys.     

Constrained design of polynomial surfaces from geodesic curves

In a recent work, Wang et al. [Wang G, Tang K, Tai CH. Parametric representation of a surface pencil with common spatial geodesic. Computer-Aided Design 2004;36(5): 447–59] discuss a constrained design problem appearing in the textile and shoe industry for garment design. Given a model and size, the characteristic curve called girth is usually fixed, and preferably should be a geodesic for manufacturing reasons. The designer must preserve this girth, being allowed to modify other areas according to aesthetic criteria. We present a practical method to construct polynomial surfaces from a polynomial geodesic or a family of geodesics, by prescribing tangent ribbons. Differently from previous procedures, we identify the existing degrees of freedom in terms of control points, and our method yields parametric polynomial surfaces that can be incorporated into commercial CAD programs. The extension to rational geodesics is also outlined.     

支持人体模型驱动的三维服装参数化设计*

通过驱动人体模型来改变服装模型的方法实现服装三维设计。首先利用基于特征线造型的方法构造人体模型和服装模型,再将服装模型特征框架（garment model feature frame, GMFF）相对人体模型特征框架(body model feature frame, BMFF)进行曲线编码,然后再利用参数化方法驱动BMFF变形后,再对GMFF相对BMFF进行曲线解码,从而得到驱动以后的GMFF。通过曲面插值,利用BMFF和GMFF得到更新以后的人体模型和服装模型。给出的实例表明,利用该方法可以非常快速有     

The development of an intelligent system for customized clothing making

This study presents the development of an intelligent system for customized clothing making. The system involves body dimension collection, clothing pattern generation and fabric cutting. First, body dimensions can be collected by analyzing the 3D scanning images or 2D photographs. Further, the clothing patterns can be generated by using computer-aided design (CAD) techniques based on the collected dimensions. By presenting the generated clothing patterns in DXF (Drawing Exchange Format), the CNC laser-cutting machine can then cut the fabric into pattern pieces automatically. Finally, by integrating the system with the processes of garment sewing, fitting test and final adjustment, the concept of customized clothing making can be realized. It can not only assure good fitness of the customized clothing but also reduce human efforts, costs, and production time.     

Garment capture from a photograph

This paper presents a new method which can create the virtual garment from a single photograph of a real garment put on to the mannequin. In solving this problem, we obtain the insight from the pattern drafting theory in the clothing field. We abstract the drafting process into a computer module, which takes the garment type and primary body sizes then produces the draft as the output. Then the problem is reduced to find out the garment type and primary body sizes. We find that information by analyzing the silhouette of the garment with respect to the mannequin. The method works robustly and produces practically usable virtual clothes that can be used for the graphical coordination. Copyright © 2015 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

基于VC 6.0和OpenGL的三维试衣系统研究*

提出了采用基于特征匹配的方法实现三维试衣效果的展示。首先提取Poser 6.0中的三维人体模型和服装模型数据;然后通过三维网格模型的曲率特征在人体模型与服装模型之间建立映射关系来完成匹配,这个过程是一种刚体变换即获取旋转矩阵和平移矢量两部分;最后在VC++ 6.0的开发环境下,利用OpenGL强大的三维建模功能实现了三维试衣平台的搭建。该平台不但可以帮助顾客快速、准确地完成服装款式的选择和试穿,而且为服装产品的个性化设计和网上销售提供了有力的支持。     

Differences in lifting strength profiles between experienced workers and novices at various exertion heights

This study compared lifting strength patterns between experienced workers and novices at various exertion heights. Twenty-one experienced workers and 21 novices were recruited to determine their static-lifting strength under various heights (10-150 cm in increments of 10 cm) using two exertion methods (vertically upward lifting, VUL, and toward body lifting, TBL). Testing posture was also recorded by a motion analysis system for comparing with the corresponding strength values.Results showed that strength during VUL were much higher than strength during TBL at 15 height positions (p < 0.001). Strength in all 30 task combinations showed no difference between the two groups except for the VUL at heights of 100-120 cm. On the average, strength exerted by novices during VUL was 4.57-7.61 kg lower than that of workers while lifting at 100-120 cm heights (all p < 0.05). The strength during TBL consistently decreased with increased heights of lifting. When workers performed VUL, the strength surprisingly remained nearly unchanged throughout the heights of interest. The postures adopted by workers during VUL were also highly differentiated from novices while performing near-floor positions, but the strength was equivalent to each other. This study demonstrated that the static-lifting strength of novices were significantly lower than those of experienced workers while upward lifting near the participant’s elbow height. It was concluded that workers tend to adopt a safer (i.e., more flexed knees) and more skillful technique than novices to generate forces, resulting in lower spinal loads during both methods of lifting.

Relevance to Industry

Many studies have established the human strength data based on student participants who do not have experience in manual materials handling. The present findings clearly suggest that lifting strength data collected on novices (e.g., on students) should be carefully applied in the task (re)design at the workplace as their strength profiles and the postures adopted during lifting differ from workers.     

A template of ease allowance for garments based on a 3D reverse methodology

Nowadays, with the very competitive environment and the emergence of the mass customization concept, garment design is become a crucial step for clothing companies. Indeed, garments should be designed quickly under controlled costs and perfectly fitted to consumers. No traditional pattern making in 2D matches these new constraints since it requires the production of expensive and time consuming physical prototypes. The study presented in this paper relies on 3D virtual design that lets achieve customized garments. An original image processing method based on ellipses and a reverse methodology using scans of a reference body and garment enables evaluation of the overall 3D ease of the garment. The garment is then designed virtually and the result is checked with a 3D simulation on the reference body.     

An improved experimental method for local clothing ventilation measurement

A clothing local ventilation measuring device based on the Lotens–Havenith steady state tracer gas method was developed and an improved experimental method for understanding local ventilation mechanisms was proposed. The local ventilation system can measure the arm, chest and back ventilation rates at the same time. Local ventilation mechanisms of an impermeable garment at two activities (static, walking) and two wind speeds (no wind, 1.2 m/s) were studied, with a focus on determining the pathways of ventilation through the different garment openings. The results showed that local ventilation rates of chest, back and arm varied considerably over locations and conditions. As expected, ventilation rates were highest for all locations at walking with wind conditions. Ventilation mechanism changed at different walking and wind conditions. The main air exchange pathway for all locations was through the garment bottom. Wind had a greater impact on clothing local ventilation than walking.