Clinical and instrumental evaluation of a food supplement in improving skin hydration

Topically applied cosmetic products can be helpful in improving skin hydration. The study shows how oral supplementation could be helpful in improving and preventing the skin dehydration. A total of 32 healthy female volunteers entered the study. Of which, 16 were treated with a food supplement based on vegetable ceramides, amino acids, fish cartilage, antioxidants and essential fatty acids for 40 days and 16 with placebo. The results of the clinical and instrumental evaluations carried out in this study, have highlighted how the active treatment is effective in improving skin hydration and in reducing the cutaneous smoothness and roughness and the depth of furrows, in comparison to the placebo. In fact, concerning several important parameters, as stratum corneum hydration and skin roughness, the improvement measured exceeded 25%. We therefore suggest that a combination of treatments (oral and topical) can be more effective in improving skin hydration.     

Effects of topical gluco-oligosaccharide and collagen tripeptide F in the treatment of sensitive atopic skin

Sensitive skin is a dermatological problem of increasing incidence in western countries and is sometimes associated with atopic condition and bacterial sovrainfection. The purpose of this study is to evaluate in a double blind, randomized, placebo controlled trial the efficacy of gluco-oligosaccharide and collagen tripeptide F in controlling the signs and symptoms of sensitive atopic skin. Forty female subjects (age, 30–59 years) affected by non-lesional atopic sensitive skin entered the study. Skin sensitivity was determined by a dermatologist on the basis of medical history, stinging test, dermatological examination and a questionnaire. A treatment with the test products (active and placebo) was carried out for 4 weeks. Measurements and clinical evaluation were carried out at baseline and at the end of the study. The following objective parameters investigated were bacterial count, skin pH and colour, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), stratum corneum hydration, skin roughness and mechanical properties. Clinical assessment included also a scoring system for dryness, desquamation, irritation, erythema and papules. Significant differences were found in the active treated group when compared with the placebo and in particular for instrumental parameters of roughness ( P  < 0.02), volume ( P  < 0.01), TEWL ( P  < 0.02), erythema ( P  < 0.0006) and clinical parameters of dryness, desquamation and irritation ( P  < 0.001). Moisturization levels and skin colour improved significantly in both the active and placebo groups. In conclusion, the study shows that the modulation of bacterial proliferation and normalization of skin barrier properties and stratum corneum moisturization can improve the symptoms of sensitive skin.     

Methods for assessment of cutaneous ageing

Quantitative assessment of skin ageing is necessary for the evaluation of age modifying treatments. The particular method used must depend on the target of the intended treatment. It should also clearly distinguish between the degree of chronic environmentally-induced trauma to the skin (predominantly photoageing) and the intrinsic ageing process. However, it is clear that no one measure will be adequate to define the extent of cutaneous ageing. Broadly speaking, the techniques available are either invasive or non-invasive. Both have their uses. For example, topically applied retinoic acid 0.05% has been shown to increase epidermal thickness and decrease stratum corneum replacement time, using an invasive technique to determine the value for the first and a non-invasive method to evaluate the second. Virtually all aspects of skin structure and function change with age. However, because of the importance with regard to appearance, some measure of solar elastotic degenerative change should be made. Profilometry techniques and ultrasound determination of skin thickness, as well as measurement of skin colour, may all have their use for this purpose.     

Role of topical and nutritional supplement to modify the oxidative stress

Background: Evidence suggests that signs of skin ageing such as wrinkling, ragging and actinic lentigines, may be connected to cumulative oxidative damage incurred throughout our lifetimes. To counteract this oxidative injury, skin is equipped with a network on enzymatic and non-enzymatic antioxidant systems, such as tocopherols, ascorbate polyphenols. All these compounds administered topically by cosmetics or by oral route by diet supplements, have been shown to exert an antioxidant/protective effect in skin or skin cells. Objective: The object of this study was to evaluate both in vitro and in vivo the activity performed by different topical antioxidants and nutritional supplements. Methods: A randomized double-blind placebo-controlled study was carried out for 8 weeks on 30 dry-skinned elderly volunteers, women aged between 48 and 59 years, with moderate xerosis and photoageing. Surface skin lipids, skin hydration and MDA determination were topically detected by 3C System. ROS was evaluated on the blood serum and on IL-3 stimulated human leukocytes by ROS Meter System at 505 nm. All the subjects applied twice a day for 2 months a nanocolloidal gel and/or take a diet supplement by oral route at the quantity of two capsules per day. All the formulations used were antioxidant-enriched (ascorbic acid, tocopherol, alpha-lipoic acid, melatonin, emblica). Results: Oxidative stress and consequently lipids peroxidation decreased from 30 to 40% (P < 0.005) in blood serum of all the subjects treated with antioxidant compounds topically and by oral route. Both free radicals recovered in blood serum and on skin (in vivo) and ROS induced by irradiation of leucocytes with UVB light (in vitro), appear sensibly lower in subjects antioxidant-treated. Conclusions: From the obtained data, it seems possible to conclude that all the compounds used play interesting role as topical and systemic photoprotectants, thanks to their interesting antioxidant property. Moreover, the antioxidant treatment seems to be a promising therapeutic approach also in reducing the oxidative stress of people affected by photoaging.     

An oral nutraceutical containing antioxidants, minerals and glycosaminoglycans improves skin roughness and fine wrinkles

Various nutraceuticals (dietary supplements) are claimed to have cutaneous antiageing properties, however, there are a limited number of research studies supporting these claims. The objective of this research was to study the effectiveness of an oral nutraceutical containing antioxidants, minerals and glycosaminoglycans on cutaneous ageing. In this double-blind, placebo-controlled trial, 60 women aged 35–60 years were randomized to receive oral dietary supplement ( n  = 30) or placebo ( n  = 30), once daily for 12 weeks. The depth of skin roughness and fine wrinkles were measured using surface evaluation of skin parameters for living skin (Visioscan) at baseline, and at the 4, 8 and 12 weeks of treatment. Surface evaluation using a replica film (Visiometer) at baseline and at the 12th week of treatment was also carried out. Statistical differences in objective skin improvement were assessed by the independent t -test. The volunteers' satisfaction was tested using the chi-squared test. The baseline depth of skin roughness and fine wrinkles in the treatment group and the placebo group were 100.5 and 100 μm, respectively. At the end of the study, the depth of skin roughness and fine wrinkles in the treatment group showed a 21.2% improvement, whereas improvement in the control group was 1.7%. This difference was statistically significant ( P  < 0.001). With regard to the volunteers' satisfaction, there was no statistically significant decrease in the homogenization of skin colour, however, a statistically significant reduction in pore size and depth of skin roughness and fine wrinkles were observed ( P  < 0.05). No side effects were noted throughout the study. The oral dietary supplement containing antioxidants, minerals and glycosaminoglycans improved skin roughness and fine wrinkles but did not affect skin colour change in female volunteers.     

Polyphenols as active ingredients for cosmetic products

Polyphenols are secondary plant metabolites with antioxidant, anti‐inflammatory and anti‐microbial activity. They are ubiquitously distributed in the plant kingdom; high amounts contain, for example, green tea and grape seeds. Polyphenolic extracts are attractive ingredients for cosmetics and pharmacy due to their beneficial biological properties. This review summarizes the effects of polyphenols in the context of anti‐ageing activity. We have explored in vitro studies, which investigate antioxidant activity, inhibition of dermal proteases and photoprotective activity, mostly studied using dermal fibroblasts or epidermal keratinocytes cell lines. Possible negative effects of polyphenols were also discussed. Further, some physicochemical aspects, namely the possible interactions with emulsifiers and the influence of the cosmetic formulation on the skin delivery, were reported. Finally, few clinical studies, which cover the anti‐ageing action of polyphenols on the skin after topical application, were reviewed.     

Material design using genetic algorithms and preparation of innovative UV-reflecting composite

The neck is a sun-exposed area. It seems to show the symptoms of photo-ageing as well as facial skin in the elderly. However, the physiological study of neck skin has hardly been reported. We examined the change of skin physiological properties at a neck site with ageing for 61 women (18—69 years old) compared with a cheek site. Water content in stratum corneum (SC) was higher, transepidermal water loss (TEWL) was lower and the turnover rate of SC judged from corneocyte area was slower at the neck site compared with the cheek site. Skin thickness was thinner, skin extensibility and elasticity were higher, skin grooves were deeper, and anisotropy of skin furrows was lower at the neck site than those at the cheek site. It was shown that the neck was also affected by sunlight but not so much as the cheek from the result of gelatinase activity detected in the tape stripped SC. Skin elasticity decreased with ageing at the neck site as well as the cheek site. Fine wrinkles were remarkably increased in the direction of Langer's line with ageing at the neck. Most skin physiological parameters at the neck showed the value between the cheek (heavily sun-exposed area) and back (not sun-exposed area). From these results, it was considered that not only intrinsic ageing but also photo-ageing affected the neck skin. We developed the prototype of cosmetics corresponding to neck skin physiology based on these results, and evaluated the effectiveness of the prototype product by a consumer test including skin measurement for 4 weeks. After treatment, water content increased, and it gave satisfaction in the skin colour brightness, skin elasticity and skin texture improvements for almost all volunteers. It was concluded that the prototype product was useful in neck skin treatment.     

A review of ageing and an examination of clinical methods in the assessment of ageing skin. Part 2: Clinical perspectives and clinical methods in the evaluation of ageing skin

With the advancement of skin research, today's consumer has increased access to technological information about ageing skin and hair care products. As a result, there is a rapidly increasing demand for proof of efficacy of these products. Recognizing these demands has led to the development and validation of many clinical methods to measure and quantify ageing skin and the effects of anti-ageing treatments. Many of the current testing methods used to research and evaluate anti-ageing product claim to employ sophisticated instruments alongside more traditional clinical methods. Intelligent use of combined clinical methods has enabled the development of technologically advanced consumer products providing enhanced efficacy and performance. Of non-invasive methods for the assessment and quantification of ageing skin, there is a plethora of tools available to the clinical researcher as defined by key clinically observed ageing parameters: skin roughness and surface texture; fine lines and wrinkles; skin pigmentation; skin colour; firmness and elasticity; hair loss; and proliferative lesions. Furthermore, many clinical procedures for the evaluation of ageing skin treatments are combined with invasive procedures, which enable added-value to claims (such as identification and alteration of biochemical markers), particularly in those cases where perception of product effect needs additional support. As discussed herein, clinical methods used in the assessment of skin ageing are many and require a disciplined approach to their use in such investigations.     

Chitin–glucan,a natural cell scaffold for skin moisturization and rejuvenation

Two clinical studies were conducted to evaluate the tolerance and effects of a copolymer of chitin and beta‐glucan, forming the exoskeleton of fungal cell walls, now supplied for cosmetic applications. A 6‐week randomized, double‐blind, placebo‐controlled study was conducted on 13 volunteers with sensitive skin to compare with 0.5–2% formulations chitin–glucan applied twice daily. Biometrological evaluations showed that erythema did not develop, the water retention capacity of the stratum corneum increased and the transepidermal water loss moderately decreased. Another 16‐week randomized, double‐blind, placebo‐controlled study was conducted on 20 men showing signs of ageing skin. A 1.5% chitin–glucan formulation was applied twice daily. Objective biometrological assessments showed a progressive increase in skin firmness and stratum corneum hydration when desquamation and skin roughness decreased. In conclusion, the chitin–glucan formulations appear safe. They significantly mitigate some signs of skin ageing and improve both stratum corneum hydration and skin barrier function.     

Intrinsic and extrinsic factors in skin ageing: a review

As the proportion of the ageing population in industrialized countries continues to increase, the dermatological concerns of the aged grow in medical importance. Intrinsic structural changes occur as a natural consequence of ageing and are genetically determined. The rate of ageing is significantly different among different populations, as well as among different anatomical sites even within a single individual. The intrinsic rate of skin ageing in any individual can also be dramatically influenced by personal and environmental factors, particularly the amount of exposure to ultraviolet light. Photodamage, which considerably accelerates the visible ageing of skin, also greatly increases the risk of cutaneous neoplasms. As the population ages, dermatological focus must shift from ameliorating the cosmetic consequences of skin ageing to decreasing the genuine morbidity associated with problems of the ageing skin. A better understanding of both the intrinsic and extrinsic influences on the ageing of the skin, as well as distinguishing the retractable aspects of cutaneous ageing (primarily hormonal and lifestyle influences) from the irretractable (primarily intrinsic ageing), is crucial to this endeavour.     

Antioxidants for improved skin appearance: Intracellular mechanism,challenges and future strategies

Recent advances in molecular and biochemical processes relevant to the skincare field have led to the development of novel ingredients based on antioxidants that can improve skin health and youthfulness. Considering the plethora of such antioxidants and the many implications for the skin's appearance, this review focuses on describing the critical aspects of antioxidants, including cosmetic functions, intracellular mechanisms and challenges. In particular, specialized substances are suggested for the treatment of each skin condition, such as skin ageing, skin dehydration and skin hyperpigmentation, which treatments can maximize effectiveness and avoid side effects during skin care processes. In addition, this review proposes advanced strategies that either already exists in the cosmetic market or should be developed to improve and optimize cosmetic’ beneficial effects.     

Oat-based complex stimulates skin barrier protein synthesis and reduces skin ageing

Citation: IFSCC Magazine , 11 (2008) (3) 225–229
The dermis is considered a highly dynamic structure that determines the biomechanical properties of the skin. It is composed of two dermal compartments separated by a vascular plexus: the papillary dermis and the reticular dermis. In the last few years, several studies have demonstrated the role of the dermal epidermal junction in the cutaneous ageing process. Recently, teams specialized in the study of the dermal matrix have focused their studies on the superior dermis in close contact with the dermal epidermal junction: the papillary dermis. They defined the role of matrix proteins in this area. Collagens XII and XVI, non-fibrillar collagens specific to the papillary dermis, are responsible for skin deformability and extensibility. Oxytalan fibres are related to elastic properties of the skin. Ubiquitous collagens such as collagens I and VI are associated with the cohesion and the resistance of the dermis. As the papillary dermis is the primary site of intrinsic dermal ageing, we studied expression of these molecules in our own in vitro model of intrinsic ageing of the papillary dermis. The results of this innovative approach confirmed that their expression was reduced. Nevertheless, active molecules may exist in nature that are capable of restoring a normal expression profile of these markers for a cosmetic anti-ageing application.
Keywords:  Anti-ageing, papillary dermis, collagens XVI and XII, oxytalan fibres     

In vitro antioxidant activity and in vivo photoprotective effect of a red orange extract

Ultraviolet radiation causes damage to the skin, which may result in both precancerous and cancerous skinlesions and acceleration of skin ageing. Topical administration of enzymatic and non-enzymatic antioxidants is an effective strategy for protecting the skin against UV-mediated oxidative damage. Hence, a systematic study to evaluate the in vitro antioxidant activity and in vivo photoprotective effect of a standardized red orange extract (ROE) has been undertaken, where the main active ingredients are anthocyanins, hydroxycinnamic acids, flavanones and ascorbic acid. For the in vitro experiments, the ROE was tested in three models: (1) bleaching of the stable 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl radical (DPPH test); (2) peroxidation, induced by the water-soluble radical initiator 2,2'-azobis(2-amidinopropane) hydrochloride, of mixed dipalmitoylphosphatidylcholine/linoleic acid unilamellar vesicles (LUVs) (LP-LUV test); and (3) UV-induced peroxidation of phospatidylcholine multilamellar vesicles (UV-IP test). The in vivo antioxidant/radical scavenger activity was assessed by determining the ability of topically applied ROE to reduce UVB-induced skin erythema in healthy human volunteers. The results obtained in the DPPH, LP-LUV and UV-IP tests demonstrated the strong antioxidant properties of ROE, with a clear relationship between ROE scavenger efficiency and its content in antioxidant compounds. In particular, the findings obtained in the UV-IP test provide a strong rationale for using this extract as a photoprotective agent. During in vivo experiments, ROE provided to efficiently protect against photooxidative skin damage when topically applied immediately after skin exposure to UVB radiations. Interestingly, the protective effect of ROE appears higher than that elicited by another natural antioxidant (tocopherol) commonly employed in cosmetic formulations. In conclusion, the present findings demonstrate that ROE affords excellent skin photoprotection, which is very likely a result of the antioxidant/radical scavenger activity of its active ingredients. Thus, ROE might have interesting applications in both anti-photoageing and after-sun cosmetic products.     

Sex- and site-dependent variations in the thickness and mechanical properties of human skin in vivo

A new method for the in vivo characterization of the physical properties of skin is presented. This comprises an ultrasound device to measure the vertical displacement of the surface of the skin, as well as its thickness and that of the hypodermis under suction. In combination with this, a mathematical model is used to calculate the following skin parameters: Young's modulus, the initial stress and an index of non-elasticity. These parameters were evaluated from the volar forearm and the forehead of 30 male and 30 females, of similar ages (28 +/- 6-years-old). The sensitivity of the testing procedure, allowing the characterization of the mechanical parameters of the skin, easily differentiated these two sites, and in some cases, differences between women and men were demonstrated. The main results showed for both sexes that the thickness (P = 0.0001), Young's modulus (P = 0.0001), and the index of non-elasticity (P = 0.0001) were greater for the forehead than for the ventral forearm, but that the initial stress was lower (P = 0.0001). The results show that the skin is thicker, stiffer and less tense and elastic on the forehead than on the ventral forearm, suggesting structural differences between these two sites (collagen fibre network, elastic fibres, epidermis, stratum corneum, microvascularization, actinic damage, presence of sebaceous glands, etc.). It is hoped that this device will be useful for the evaluation of certain skin disorders (scleroderma, Ehlers-Danlos syndrome, cutis laxa, oedema, etc.) and their therapy, as well as being a useful tool in skin ageing and cosmetic product assessment.     

Objective Evaluation of the Placebo Effect in Cosmetic Treatments. A Randomized Controlled Study

A product's packaging and claimed efficacy may stimulate pleasant emotions during the use of cosmetics, thus enhancing their perceived benefits. The aim of this study was to evaluate if smart packaging and strongly claimed efficacy attributes can influence the objectively measured efficacy, allowing a true placebo effect to be associated with a given cosmetic treatment. A marketed anti‐aging gluconolactone‐based formulation was selected for the study and packaged both in a fancy sophisticated jar and in an unbranded plain container. Thirty‐six female volunteers (age range: 30‐‐55 years) with facial photoageing were selected for the study and randomly assigned to the fancy or plain packaged product. Pre‐agreed messages aimed at extolling the product's cosmetic effects accompanied delivery of the fancy‐packaged product to panellists. The given product was applied to the face twice a day for 8 weeks. Instrumental measurements of the skin colour (a* and L* parameter), skin capacitance, skin tensile properties (R0, R2, R6), skin thickness and skin microrelief parameters (Ra and Rz) were taken at baseline and after 4 and 8 weeks of use. Clinical and subjective evaluations were also carried out at each control visit. Moreover, the amount of cream consumed during usage was calculated by weighing the given jars at each visit. Statistical analysis of the data obtained showed a significant improvement in all instrumental parameters for both groups (‘fancy’ and ‘plain’ packaging), although no significant differences were detected between the two groups at any time. The improvement was higher in the ‘plain’ group for most instrumental parameters except for micro‐relief parameters where the outcome was better in the ‘fancy’ group. Promotion of facial muscle relaxation deriving from the application of the fancy‐packaged cream could be a possible explanation for this finding. Also the product's efficacy and sensory properties were perceived with a higher positive impact in the fancy group. The better performance of the plain packaging group could be related to daily application of the ‘proper’ amount of cream. In fact, this group consumed a larger amount of cream than the ‘fancy’ group. These results show that a true placebo effect cannot be induced by packaging characteristics, although they can slightly influence the degree of the expected skin benefits in different ways. Moreover, proper daily dosage of the product appears to be a key factor in improving the biophysical skin properties related to anti‐ageing and restoring effects. Paper presented at the IFSCC Conference 2005, Florence, Italy.     

The moisturizing effect of a wheat extract food supplement on women’s skin: a randomized,double‐blind placebo‐controlled trial

Ceramides, specific lipid components of the skin, represent 35–40% of the intercellular cement binding cells together and contributing to skin hydration. A wheat extract rich in ceramides and digalactosyl‐diglycerides was developed by Hitex in two forms: wheat extract oil (WEO) and wheat extract powder (WEP). In vitro tests and two clinical studies demonstrated promising efficacy results with WEP on skin hydration. To confirm these early results, a double‐blind, randomized, placebo‐controlled study was carried out on 51 women aged 20–63 years with dry to very dry skin who received either 350 mg of WEO or placebo for 3 months. Evaluation of skin hydration on legs, arms and face, assessed at baseline (D0) and at study end (D84) was performed by the dermatologist using dermatological scores (dryness, roughness, erythema), skin hydration measurement (corneometry) and self‐assessment scores (Visual Analogue Scale: VAS). Perceived efficacy was noted by participants throughout the study; tolerability and overall acceptability of the study products were evaluated by the dermatologist and the participants at the end of study. Skin hydration was significantly increased between D0 and D84 on the arms (P < 0.001) and legs (P = 0.012) in the WEO group compared with placebo. Even if no significant statistical differences between groups were observed for the dermatological evaluation, skin dryness and redness tended to be reduced in the WEO group. Moreover, from D0 to D84, the VAS index had a tendency to increase in favour of WEO for the overall skin hydration (P = 0.084) indicating that participants perceived an improvement. The WEO capsules were perceived by participants as being more effective than placebo on all skin dryness signs. In conclusion, WEO capsules were well tolerated and appreciated. After 3 months’ treatment, a significant increase in skin hydration and an improvement in associated clinical signs were observed in women with dry skin.     

The regulatory role of the tetrapeptide AcSDKP in skin and hair physiology and the prevention of ageing effects in these tissues – a potential cosmetic role

The naturally occurring tetrapeptide acetyl‐N‐Ser‐Asp‐Lys‐Pro (AcSDKP) recognized as a potent angiogenic factor was shown recently to contribute to the repair of cutaneous injuries. In the current article, we report the ability of AcSDKP to exert a beneficial effect on normal healthy skin and scalp and to compensate for the ageing process. In vitro AcSDKP at 10^?11–10^?7 M significantly stimulates the growth of human keratinocytes, fibroblasts and follicle dermal papilla cells. Moreover, it enhances the growth of human epidermal keratinocyte progenitor and stem cells as shown in a clonogenic survival assay. Topical treatment of ex vivo cultured skin explants with 10^?5 M AcSDKP increases the thickness of the epidermis and upregulates the synthesis of keratins 14 and 19, fibronectin, collagen III and IV as well as the glycoaminoglycans (GAGs). In the ex vivo‐cultured hair follicles, AcSDKP promotes hair shaft elongation and induces morphological and molecular modifications matching the criteria of hair growth. Furthermore, AcSDKP at 10^?11–10^?7 M was shown to improve epidermal barrier, stimulating expression of three protein components of tight junctions (claudin‐1, occludin, ZO‐1) playing an important role in connecting neighbouring cells. This tetrapeptide exercises also activation of SIRT1 implicated in the control of cell longevity. Indeed, a two‐fold increase in the synthesis of SIRT1 by cultured keratinocytes was observed in the presence of 10^?11–10^?7 M AcSDKP. In conclusion, these findings provide convincing evidence of the regulatory role of AcSDKP in skin and hair physiology and suggest a cosmetic use of this natural tetrapeptide to prevent skin ageing and hair loss and to promote the cutaneous regeneration and hair growth.     

An updated review of clinical methods in the assessment of ageing skin – New perspectives and evaluation for claims support

With the advancement of skin research, today's consumer has increased access to an informed understanding of ageing skin and its appendages, together with a plethora of targeted products to meet such needs. In recent years, increased legislative demands for quality evidential claims support have led not only to the development and validation of clinical methods to measure and quantify ageing skin, but also a clearer understanding of the skin ageing process–especially the impact of both its internal and external environments–as well as a tougher stance on clearly unjustifiable claims. Traditional testing methods used to research and evaluate anti‐ageing products claim to employ sophisticated instruments. Today, however, since the term anti‐ageing can be considered a misnomer, intelligent use of combined more advanced clinical methods has enabled the development of technologically improved consumer products providing enhanced efficacy and targeted performance. Non‐invasive methods for the assessment and quantification of the causes of ageing skin provide tools to the clinical researcher as defined by key clinically observed ageing parameters. Where evidence requires additional support, a number of clinical procedures evaluating ageing skin and hair products are combined with invasive procedures, thus enabling an added value to product claims. As discussed herein, given the enhanced understanding of ageing, we provide an update to our previous reviews of clinical methods used in the assessment of skin ageing, to include the wider aspects of environmental exposure; skin pigmentation; microbiome disturbance; surface topography; colour, radiance, and pH; and structural integrity–all requiring a disciplined approach to their use in dermatological investigations and product claims evidence.     

Caucasian facial L* shifts may communicate anti-ageing efficacy

An ageing study was conducted to capture skin colour parameters in the CIELab system from Caucasians of both genders and all available adult ages. This study produced a linear correlation between L* and age for a Caucasian population between 20 and 59 years of age as follows: (L* value) = -0.13 × (Age in years) + 63.01. Previous studies have addressed age-related changes in skin colour. This work presents a novel consumer correlated quantitative linear model of skin brightness by which to communicate age-related changes. Two product assessment studies are also presented here, demonstrating the ability of anti-ageing products to deliver on objective and subjective improvements in skin brightness. It was determined to be possible to use the fundamental Caucasian L*-age correlation to describe product benefits in a novel quantitative and consumer-relevant fashion, through the depiction of a 'years back' calculation.     

Epidermal and dermal changes in response to various skin rejuvenation methods

During the last years, a number of new devices have been developed to improve the dermal and epidermal signs of photo‐ and chronological skin ageing. There are well‐established ablative and non‐ablative skin resurfacing options using different lasers and light sources, but side effects have been observed frequently. A recently developed photorejuvenation method using non‐thermal stimulation of skin cells with low energy and narrow band light has been termed photomodulation. Light emitting diodes are the ideal source of this kind of light that stimulate mitochondrial cell organelles leading to up‐regulation of cytochrome electron transport pathway leading to mitochondrial DNA gene modulation. This paper reviews the most current knowledge of intrinsic and extrinsic changes of ageing and summarizes different systems for skin rejuvenation with focus on non‐thermal non‐ablative skin rejuvenation modalities.