羊毛衫起口花型设计及编织工艺分析

介绍了羊毛衫起口的种类及毛起头分离横列的编织方法,给出了编织1+1、2+2、3+3、2+1罗纹组织的起口花型的设计步骤、横机上的编织过程及线圈模拟图。     

羊毛衫起口坯布组织结构设计与编织

羊毛衫大身衣片、袖片以及领头等附件的生产编织均需单独起口,且针织物具有脱散性和卷边性,因而羊毛衫的起口组织设计非常重要。生产中通常采用罗纹组织结构起底以形成优良的不脱散光边;有时为了达到特殊的毛针织服装设计效果,也可采用纬平针、空气层、罗纹空气层等组织结构起口。本文通过经验总结、实例验证及文献研究等方法,对羊毛衫起口操作、各类起口坯布组织结构设计、编织方法及用途进行了详细的梳理和分析,以期对羊毛衫设计生产具有指导作用。     

局部编织技术在羊毛衫设计中的应用

介绍采用电脑横机局部编织技术生产羊毛衫的设计方法与工艺,分析羊毛衫局部编织部位款式造型及毛衫的风格特征,阐述局部编织部位的组织花型设计与编织花型意匠图工艺,并制作出每款毛衫的上机操作工艺单。结果表明:运用局部编织技术的毛衫可形成荷叶边、扇形、圆环形、褶皱状等外观效应,与普通休止横机编织该造型的工艺相比,效率高,造型丰富,立体效应明显,毛衫款式更为新颖独特,能够适应当前羊毛衫时装化、造型多样化的需求,故局部编织技术在羊毛衫设计中的应用适宜推广。     

集圈组织在电脑横机制版中的设计

针对集圈组织在设计和编织过程中的复杂性,利用国产电脑横机的制版软件来设计基本集圈组织,并将集圈组织套用到羊毛衫的花型设计中;既丰富了针织衫的花型组织,又提高了毛衫的个性化设计,可满足消费者的多元化需求。     

羊毛衫纬平针边口防脱散的编织方法

在分析常规羊毛衫纬平针组织顺、逆编织方向脱散原因的基础上,给出其顺编织方向上的两种双边、单边防脱散横列线圈结构,并讨论防脱散横列毛起口与纱起口的编织方法和步骤。最后给出边口防脱散横列编织过程中的工艺控制要点。     

横机空针成圈编织的几何条件与应用

为了便于认识与理解横机羊毛衫空针成圈的编织条件,从编织过程中纱线与针床的几何特征,给出了空针能否进行成圈编织的判断方法,表明:在整个编织幅宽范围内,若某枚空针在其两侧的起口纱线中存在与针床平面呈现平行的几何状态,则该枚针在织下一个横列时,将不能进行成圈编织,否则,它在下一个编织横列将可以进行成圈编织,同时,也将该判断方法应用到了普通的纬平针起口、罗纹起口,挑单枚空针孔眼、挑双枚空针孔眼、放单枚空针、放2枚及以上空针等所需要的空针成圈编织中。     

基于纸技艺的毛衫裙组织结构设计与生产工艺

系统介绍提花纵条毛衫裙、空气层横条毛衫裙以及披肩毛衫裙中,基于纸技艺的组织结构设计所形成的不同肌理效应与编织工艺,分析每款毛衫裙的组织结构对毛衫风格的影响,根据花型特点绘制花型意匠图,同时制作上机操作工艺单及制版程序,并给出详细的成品规格及密度参数。指出:基于纸技艺的提花组织、挑花组织、空气层组织、局部编织等的设计与应用,可赋予毛衫裙不同的风格特征,随着毛衫编织设备功能的日益完善,纸技艺除了运用于羊毛衫服装的组织结构的设计,还可以运用到羊毛衫服装整体或局部细节装饰以及造型结构适体性和工艺实现等方面,拓宽毛衫设计理念。     

针织横机自动六扳头装置

为了增加羊毛衫的花色品种和提高产量,我厂革新成功了自动六扳头装置,使其能自动编织曲折状凹凸波纹花型的羊毛衫。过去我厂生产波纹花型是由人工在普通的62式横机上编织的,稍不注意,就易出差错,且产量低,仅4～5片/日。现改装为自动六扳头后,提高了产质量,产量比手工提高4～5倍。 一、技术特征     

纸样在羊毛衫编织工艺制定中的应用

提出羊毛衫纸样和编织工艺结合设计理论,指出纸样转化为羊毛衫编织工艺单的3种方法,即曲线转化成折线、曲线转化成直线及平位应用和编织机器的影响,将纸样根据横机编织的工艺要求转化成衣片形状,可以生产出设计新颖,款式独特的横机编织产品。通过该理论可以更好地实现服装的款型,因而可使羊毛衫的设计思路完全放开,并丰富产品款型,使羊毛衫更加时尚和富于变化。     

编织工艺对羊毛衫尺寸稳定性的影响

羊毛衫的尺寸稳定性是衡量羊毛衫服用性能优劣的重要指标之一.文章根据羊毛衫编织工艺的特点,分析了羊毛衫的变形机理,认为羊毛衫生产过程中,纱线和组织结构的选择、成品密度的确定及毛坯密度的控制方法对羊毛衫的尺寸稳定性有明显的影响;提出了从编织工艺设计着手,提高羊毛衫尺寸稳定性的方法和途径.     

Reliable identification of grapevine rootstock varieties using RAPD PCR on woody samples

Since grapevine ( Vitis spp .) rootstock material is being traded increasingly as disbudded woody material a lack of distinctive morphological features on such material necessitates an alternative and reliable means of identification. Methods described here were developed for rapid and efficient extraction of DNA from woody samples rich in phenolic compounds and polysaccharides, and for subsequent identification of varieties by RAPD PCR. Using these methods, and with the application of only one selected RAPD primer, we were able to differentiate sixteen rootstock varieties, including the seven varieties most commonly used in Germany. Problems commonly encountered with reproducibility of RAPD patterns were avoided by choosing primers with a dinucleotide sequence and a high G/C content that allowed a rather high annealing temperature of 45°C. Methods described here should also be useful for other horticultural crops, especially those with woody tissues rich in phenolic compounds and polysaccharides.     

An internet compendium of analytical methods and spectroscopic information for monomers and additives used in food packaging plastics

An internet website (http://cpf.jrc.it/smt/) has been produced as a means of dissemination of methods of analysis and supporting spectroscopic information on monomers and additives used for food contact materials (principally packaging). The site which is aimed primarily at assisting food control laboratories in the European Union contains analytical information on monomers, starting substances and additives used in the manufacture of plastics materials. A searchable index is provided giving PM and CAS numbers for each of 255 substances. For each substance a data sheet gives regulatory information, chemical structures, physico-chemical information and background information on the use of the substance in particular plastics, and the food packaging applications. For monomers and starting substances (155 compounds) the infra-red and mass spectra are provided, and for additives (100 compounds); additionally proton NMR are available for about 50% of the entries. Where analytical methods have been developed for determining these substances as residual amounts in plastics or as trace amounts in food simulants these methods are also on the website. All information is provided in portable document file (PDF) format which means that high quality copies can be readily printed, using freely available Adobe Acrobat Reader software. The website will in future be maintained and up-dated by the European Commission's Joint Research Centre (JRC) as new substances are authorized for use by the European Commission (DG-ENTR formerly DGIII). Where analytical laboratories (food control or other) require reference substances these can be obtained free-ofcharge from a reference collection housed at the JRC and maintained in conjunction with this website compendium.     

Aroma characterization of various apricot varieties using headspace–solid phase microextraction combined with gas chromatography–mass spectrometry and gas chromatography–olfactometry

The characterization of the aromatic profile of several apricot cultivars with molecular tracers in order to obtain objective data concerning the aromatic quality of this fruit was undertaken using headspace–solid phase microextraction (HS–SPME). Six apricot cultivars were selected according to their organoleptic characteristics: Iranien, Orangered, Goldrich, Hargrand, Rouge du Roussillon and A4025. The aromatic intensity of these varieties measured by HS–SPME–Olfactometry were defined and classified according to the presence and the intensity of grassy, fruity and apricot like notes. In the six varieties, 23 common volatile compounds were identified by HS–SPME–GC–MS. Finally, 10 compounds, ethyl acetate, hexyl acetate, limonene, β-cyclocitral, γ-decalactone, 6-methyl-5-hepten-2-one, linalool, β-ionone, menthone and (E)-hexen-2-al were recognized by HS–SPME–GC–O as responsible of the aromatic notes involved in apricot aroma and considered as molecular tracers of apricot aromatic quality which could be utilized to discriminate apricot varieties.     

Tests of potential functional barriers for laminated multilayer food packages. Part I: Low molecular weight permeants

The advent of the functional barrier concept in food packaging has brought with it a requirement for fast tests of permeation through potential barrier materials. In such tests it would be convenient for both foodstuffs and materials below the functional barrier (sub-barrier materials) to be represented by standard simulants. By means of inverse gas chromatography, liquid paraffin spiked with appropriate permeants was considered as a potential simulant of sub-barrier materials based on polypropylene (PP) or similar polyolefins. Experiments were performed to characterize the kinetics of the permeation of low molecular weight model permeants (octene, toluene and isopropanol) from liquid paraffin, through a surrogate potential functional barrier (25 μm-thick oriented PP) into the food simulants olive oil and 3% (w/v) acetic acid. These permeation results were interpreted in terms of three permeation kinetic models regarding the solubility of a particular model permeant in the post-barrier medium (i.e. the food simulant). The results obtained justify the development and evaluation of liquid sub-barrier simulants that would allow flexible yet rigorous testing of new laminated multilayer packaging materials.     

Chlorohydrins of bisphenol A diglycidyl ether (BADGE) and of bisphenol F diglycidyl ether (BFDGE) in canned foods and ready-to-drink coffees from the Japanese market

BADGE.2HCl and BFDGE.2HCl were determined in 28 samples of ready-to-drink canned coffee and 18 samples of canned vegetables (10 corn, 5 tomatoes and 3 others), all from the Japanese market. HPLC was used as the principal analytical method and GCMS for confirmation of relevant LC fractions. BADGE.2HCl was found to be present in one canned coffee and five samples of corn, BFDGE.2HCl in four samples of canned tomatoes and in one canned corn. No sample was found which exceeded the 1mg/kg limit of the EU for the BADGE chlorohydrins. However the highest concentration was found for the sum of BFDGE.2HCl and BFDGE.HCl.H₂O at a level of 1.5mg/kg. A Beilstein test confirmed that all cans containing foods contaminated with BADGE.2HCl or BFDGE.2HCl had at lest one part coated with a PVC organosol.     

European priorities for research to support legislation in the area of food contact materials and articles

A strong science base is required to underpin the planning and decision-making process involved in determining future European community legislation on materials and articles in contact with food. Significant progress has been made in the past 5 years in European funded work in this area, with many developments contributing to a much better understanding of the migration process, and better and simpler approaches to food control. In this paper this progress is reviewed against previously identified work-areas (identified in 1994) and conclusions are reached about future requirements for R&D to support legislation on food contact materials and articles over the next 5 or so years.     

Analysis of benzo[a]pyrene in spiked fatty foods by second derivative synchronous spectrofluorimetry after microwave-assisted treatment of samples

A simple, rapid and inexpensive method has been developed for the determination of benzo[a     

The development of reference materials for paralytic shellfish poisoning toxins in lyophilized mussel. II: Certification study

This paper describes the second part of a project undertaken to develop certified mussel reference materials for paralytic shellfish poisoning toxins. In the first part two interlaboratory studies were undertaken to investigate the performance of the analytical methodology for several PSP toxins, in particular saxitoxin and decarbamoyl-saxitoxin in lyophilized mussels, and to set criteria for the acceptance of results to be applied during the certification exercise. Fifteen laboratories participated in this certification study and were asked to measure saxitoxin and decarbamoyl-saxitoxin in rehydrated lyophilized mussel material and in a saxitoxin-enriched mussel material. The participants were allowed to use a method of their choice but with an extraction procedure to be strictly followed. The study included extra experiments to verify the detection limits for both saxitoxin and decarbamoyl-saxitoxin. Most participants (13 of 15) were able to meet all the criteria set for the certification study. Results for saxitoxin.2HCl yielded a certified mass fraction of <0.07 mg/kg in the rehydrated lyophilized mussels. Results obtained for decarbamoyl-saxitoxin.2HCl yielded a certified mass fraction of 1.59+/-0.20 mg/kg. The results for saxitoxin.2HCl in enriched blank mussel yielded a certified mass fraction of 0.48 +/- 0.06 mg/kg. These certified reference materials for paralytic shellfish poisoning toxins in lyophilized mussel material are the first available for laboratories to test their method for accuracy and performance.     

Announcing a new international peer-reviewed journal:Food Science and Human Wellness now accepting manuscript submission in English

<正>We are pleased to announce the launch of a new international peer-reviewed journal-Food Science and Human Wellness,ISSN 2213-4530,which is an open access journal,produced and hosted by Elsevier B.V.on behalf of Beijing Academy of Food Sciences.Food Science and Human Wellness is an international peer-reviewed English journal that provides a forum for the dissemination of the