Novel cosmetic delivery systems: an application update

World consumers are nowadays more focused on their health and appearance. This trend is creating heightened demand for products formulated with natural and nutraceutical ingredients. Functional ingredients and innovative delivery systems are driving the new product development in the field of cosmetics. A significant number of innovative formulations are now being used in personal care with real consumer-perceivable benefits and optimized sensory attributes, resulting in an economic uplift of cosmetic industry. In fact, the U.S. market alone for novel cosmetic delivery systems has been projected to be more than $41 billion for the year 2007. Novel cosmetic delivery systems reviewed here possess enormous potential as next-generation smarter carrier systems.     

Lipid nanoparticles (SLN & NLC) for delivery of vitamin E: a comprehensive review

The antioxidative and photoprotective properties of vitamin E have caused it to be included as an active agent in various pharmaceutical and cosmetic products. However, its lipophilicity, chemical instability and poor skin penetration have limited the effectiveness of these formulations. For that reason, many attempts to include it in different drug delivery systems have been made. In recent decades, lipid nanoparticles have received special attention due to their advantages of compatibility with the skin, ability to enhance penetration of drugs in the stratum corneum, protection of the encapsulated substance against degradation induced by the external medium and control of drug release. This work reviews the current status of the encapsulation of vitamin E in lipid nanoparticles. We describe the most important methods for obtaining and characterizing lipid nanoparticles containing vitamin E (LNP‐VE), various techniques for the evaluation of vitamin E's properties after encapsulation, the main in vitro and in vivo studies of the potential effectiveness or toxicity of LNP‐VE, the formulations and stability studies of this delivery system, the commercial products based on LNP‐VE and the regulatory aspects related to lipid nanoparticles. Finally, we discuss the most relevant advantages of encapsulating vitamin E in such particles and critical aspects that still demand attention to enhance the potential of solid lipid nanoparticles to deliver vitamin E.     

Polyphenols as active ingredients for cosmetic products

Polyphenols are secondary plant metabolites with antioxidant, anti‐inflammatory and anti‐microbial activity. They are ubiquitously distributed in the plant kingdom; high amounts contain, for example, green tea and grape seeds. Polyphenolic extracts are attractive ingredients for cosmetics and pharmacy due to their beneficial biological properties. This review summarizes the effects of polyphenols in the context of anti‐ageing activity. We have explored in vitro studies, which investigate antioxidant activity, inhibition of dermal proteases and photoprotective activity, mostly studied using dermal fibroblasts or epidermal keratinocytes cell lines. Possible negative effects of polyphenols were also discussed. Further, some physicochemical aspects, namely the possible interactions with emulsifiers and the influence of the cosmetic formulation on the skin delivery, were reported. Finally, few clinical studies, which cover the anti‐ageing action of polyphenols on the skin after topical application, were reviewed.     

基于消费情感体验的国潮T恤产品魅力属性研究北大核心CSCD

从消费需求出发,探讨国潮T恤产品的魅力属性及其优化策略,提升消费者的情感体验。首先通过评价构造法,萃取国潮T恤产品的魅力要素,随之运用因素分析,将其归纳为感性联想特质、美学特质、精致特质、创意特质及工学特质5个魅力因素;其次透过Kano二维品质模式进行国潮T恤产品魅力属性的品质归类,了解不同背景变量受访者的归类差异。结果显示:魅力因素中除精致特质与工学特质为一维品质外,其余3个皆为无差异品质,要素中也以无差异品质居多。背景变量中,国潮T恤产品魅力要素对男生与年龄在25岁以下两类受访者更具影响力;最后结合Kano改良模式与重要性—绩效模式,探讨国潮T恤产品魅力属性的优化策略,并依据研究结果提出具体的建议。     

Nonthermal pasteurization of liquid foods using high‐intensity pulsed electric fields

Processing foods with high‐intensity pulsed electric fields (PEF) is a new technology to inactivate microorganisms and enzymes with only a small increase in food temperature. The appearance and quality of fresh foods are not altered by the application of PEF, while microbial inactivation is caused by irreversible pore formation and destruction of the semipermeable barrier of the cell membrane. High‐intensity PEF provides an excellent alternative to conventional thermal methods, where the inactivation of the microorganisms implies the loss of valuable nutrients and sensory attributes. This article presents recent advances in the PEF technology, including microbial and enzyme inactivation, generation of pulsed high voltage, processing chambers, and batch and continuous systems, as well as the theory and its application to food pasteurization. PEF technology has the potential to improve economical and efficient use of energy, as well as provide consumers with minimally processed, microbiologically safe, nutritious and freshlike food products.     

Renewable sources: applications in personal care formulations

A global tendency for products considered environmentally sustainable, and ecologically obtained led the industry related to personal care formulations to fund the research and the development of personal care/cosmetics containing ingredients from natural resources. Furthermore, consumers are aware of environmental and sustainability issueans, thus not harming the environment represents a key consideration when developing a new cosmetic ingredient. In this study we review some examples of active ingredients or raw materials used in cosmetics/personal care/biomedical products that are coming from either through biotechnological systems, or as byproducts of several industries. A skin formulation containing biosynthetic actives, prepared by us and the study regarding its dermocosmetic properties are also described. The need for the standardization processes, the safety assessment tools, the improvement of the exploitation methods of these renewable sources in order the production to be ecologically and economically better are also discussed.     

No. 2Vol. 42, No. 4, pp. 289–296, 2008An influence of cosmetic formula on thermal characteristics and its relationship with the sensation of freshness during application

Polyglycerol fatty acid esters (PGFE) , a food grade emulsifier has been used in cosmetic products in recent years due to its safety and low stimulation of skin. Cosmetic formulation containing CoQ1O to provide a stable and clear pre-paration is difficult because it has a high crystalline property. We have tried the development of CoQ10-soluble pre-paration with PGFE applied for cosmetics. The present study is summarized as follows: This CoQ10-soluble pre-paration has a bicontinuous microemulsion structure that provides high solubilization capacity and thermodynamic stability. Cosmetics using this CoQ1O soluble pre-paration tend to improve the skin permeability and also to involve the change in skin conditions (moisturization and elasticity), compared to the non-bicontinuous microemulsion pre-paration.
Keywords:  coenzyme Q10, solubilization, bicontinuous, microemulsion, polyglycerol fatty acid ester, cosmetics, food, emulsifier, safety, low stimulation, skin, moisturization, elasticity     

Prebiotic Low Sugar Chocolate Dairy Desserts: Physical and Optical Characteristics and Performance of PARAFAC and PCA Preference Map

The addition of prebiotic and sweeteners in chocolate dairy desserts opens up new opportunities to develop dairy desserts that besides having a lower calorie intake still has functional properties. In this study, prebiotic low sugar dairy desserts were evaluated by 120 consumers using a 9‐point hedonic scale, in relation to the attributes of appearance, aroma, flavor, texture, and overall liking. Internal preference map using parallel factor analysis (PARAFAC) and principal component analysis (PCA) was performed using the consumer data. In addition, physical (texture profile) and optical (instrumental color) analyses were also performed. Prebiotic dairy desserts containing sucrose and sucralose were equally liked by the consumers. These samples were characterized by firmness and gumminess, which can be considered drivers of liking by the consumers. Optimization of the prebiotic low sugar dessert formulation should take in account the choice of ingredients that contribute in a positive manner for these parameters. PARAFAC allowed the extraction of more relevant information in relation to PCA, demonstrating that consumer acceptance analysis can be evaluated by simultaneously considering several attributes. Multiple factor analysis reported Rv value of 0.964, suggesting excellent concordance for both methods.     

可持续生产再生资源表面活性剂的国际研究进展（网络首发、推荐阅读）

表面活性剂是重要的化学产品,作为乳化剂和界面改性剂应用于家用洗涤剂、个人护理产品、油漆和涂料、食品、化妆品和制药工业中。聚焦表面活性剂在研究和开发方面取得的最新国际进展,尤其以改善其在整个生命周期的生态可持续性,包括以再生资源为原料的衍生物、使用绿色制造原则生产、以及在消费者使用和处置过程中提高生物相容性和生物降解性。生物基表面活性剂来源于植物油、多糖、蛋白质、磷脂和其他可再生资源,目前约占表面活性剂市场的24%,这一比例预计还将增加,特别是在亚洲。可再生能源的使用对消费者很有吸引力,因为这能减少二氧化碳（一种与气候变化有关的温室气体）的产生。酶可以通过减少有机溶剂、水和能源的使用,减少副产品和废物的形成,大大提高工艺的可持续性。在用于合成表面活性剂的生物酶中,脂肪酶是最强效的,因其具有较高的生物催化活性、操作稳定性和形成或切割酯、酰胺和硫代酯键的能力。为了使酶成为表面活性剂的强效催化剂,需对其进一步研究开发,以提高催化生产率、稳定性和降低其购买成本。     

Cross‐Cultural Consumer Acceptability and Purchase Intent of Forage‐Finished Rib‐Eye Steaks

Rib‐eye steaks, from 3 forage‐finished systems (S1, S2, and S3) and 1 commercial steak (C), either cooked by 1‐sided‐grilling or 2‐sided‐grilling, were evaluated for sensory acceptability [overall appearance (ORA) and overall appearance of fat (OAF) for raw steaks; overall appearance (OCA), overall beef aroma (OBA), overall beef flavor (OBF), juiciness, tenderness and overall liking (OL) for cooked steaks] and purchase intent by Hispanic, Asian and U.S. consumers. They also indicated preferred degree of doneness and cooking methods. Cross‐cultural differences in preferences and consumer acceptability of rib‐eye steaks were observed. Grilling was the most preferred cooking method. Hispanics and Asians preferred medium and/or medium well, while U.S. consumers preferred medium and/or medium rare. For cooked steaks, the population effect was significant for all sensory attributes; Asians generally scored lower than did Hispanics and U.S. consumers. C and S3 generally had higher scores for all sensory attributes across 3 populations. Purchase intent for all forage‐finished steaks was higher for Hispanics and U.S. consumers compared to Asians (50.0% to 77.8% compared with 43.2% to 65.9%). Attributes influencing purchase intent of forage‐finished steaks differed among populations: tenderness (odds ratio = 1.4) for Hispanics, OCA (odds ratio = 1.5) for Asians, and OBF (odds ratio = 1.3) for U.S. consumers. Overall, this study demonstrated that the type of forage‐finished system and ethnic differences influenced sensory acceptability and purchase intent of forage‐finished rib‐eye steaks.     

The effects of cosmetics on person perception

The study reported here forms part of an investigation of what psychological benefits, if any, exist for the user of cosmetics. A central theme in the work on physical attractiveness is that if one is physically attractive one is assumed to have a more ideal personality than someone of lesser attractiveness. If cosmetics really do make people look more physically attractive, then with the use of cosmetics others should perceive people more favourably in terms of personality characteristics. This study, therefore, attempted to find out whether cosmetics really do improve appearance ratings (by males and females) and in result improve ratings of personality. Colour photographs of four female stimulus persons of average physical attractiveness in each of four modes (neither make-up nor hair care; make-up but no hair care; no make-up but hair care; both make-up and hair care) were evaluated by a judge panel of sixteen males and sixteen females. The amount, extent and style of use of facial make-up and hair care was no more than would be in everyday use. Each judge saw one stimulus person in each mode but no stimulus person in more than one mode in a counter-balanced design, using 7-point rating scales of six appearance and fourteen personality dimensions. Two hypotheses were confirmed:

• 1 The use of cosmetics (facial make-up and hair care) leads to more favourable appearance ratings by others (both males and females). For make-up there were more favourable ratings on all of the six appearance scales, and for hair care there were more favourable ratings on four of the six appearance scales.
• 2 The use of cosmetics leads to more favourable ratings of personality as perceived by others (both males and females). Facial make-up enhanced ratings on eight of the fourteen personality dimensions tested and hair treatment led to more favourable ratings on ten of the scales.

It is not certain from this study whether persons using cosmetics are rated more favourably than without cosmetics because they are seen as more physically attractive and in result acquire more favourable ratings for attributes which are associated with being physically attractive or whether there is a direct effect on perceived personality, independent of enhancement of physical attractiveness, or both. Either explanation is possible, though there is some support for the idea that the use of cosmetics (or at least hair care) may have a direct effect on perceived personality. If this were so, it would suggest the existence of a separate positive cosmetic stereotype which carries its own concept ‘what has been cared for is good’. This stereotype would form an extension of the ‘what is beautiful is good’ stereotype for physical attractiveness. Otherwise, and as a result of the work reported here, the latter might become ‘what has been made beautiful is good’, when cosmetics are used.     

焦糖色素在食品和饮料中的应用

<正> 焦糖色素是以食品级糖类为原料,配上少量的食品级酸、碱或盐,经120℃以上高温热处理而制成的无定形褐色物质,有时也叫焦化糖,是食用天然色素。 一般来说,食品在进行蒸煮时会出现焦糖化作用,这种化学变化很复杂。大致来说,在酸性、热和压力的影响下,较大的糖分子就会变小,然后产生缩合或聚合作用,使简单的糖重新结合成较大的、复杂的有色体。 焦糖色素的制造方法根据美国“焦糖检定标准”,用于制     

The importance of wine attributes for purchase decisions: A study of Italian consumers’ perception

The importance of extrinsic and intrinsic attributes of wine for purchase decisions is the object of a lively debate. As a matter of fact, in recent decades, the shift of consumption motivations from nutritional purposes to drinking for pleasure has caused a persistent decrease in the overall demand. However, the increasing number of product varieties and brands of domestic and imported wine, as well as the increased diversity in wine styles and prices, make the identification of wine purchase drivers difficult. This article investigates the importance of product attributes for Italian consumers when choosing wine. Specifically, a class of statistical models for ordinal data, namely CUB, is taken into consideration. This type of model allows the comparison and clustering of the rating distributions that consumers express about wine features and the detection of significant similarities and differences. In addition, this technique generally helps to relate the subject’s preferences to covariates which typically summarize the socio-demographic profile, the purchase and consumption behavior.     

Significance of osmotic temperature treatment and storage time on physical and chemical properties of a strawberry-gel product

BACKGROUND: The development of fruit‐based foods that maintain the nutritional and sensory properties of fresh fruit may help to stimulate fruit consumption by consumers. The possibility of formulating a fruit‐gel product with osmodehydrated fruit and the reused osmotic solution (OS) obtained from the dehydration step has been demonstrated. However, the conditions of the osmotic process can significantly affect the properties of the obtained product. In this work an osmotic process at 22 °C for 6 h and at 30 °C for 3 h was employed to formulate a strawberry‐gel product. RESULTS: Significant losses of ascorbic and citric acids and anthocyanins were observed and some relevant volatile compounds of the strawberry aroma profile were developed during the osmotic process. Changes in all analysed parameters occurred mainly during the first 2 days of storage. The flux of anthocyanins from the fruit to the gel gave an attractive appearance to the formulated product. These changes were more marked for samples obtained at 30 °C. CONCLUSION: Osmotic treatment at 30 °C was more suitable for formulation of the product, because the presence of nutritional/functional compounds in the OS, and consequently in the gel matrix, was higher and the aroma and colour were more stable and homogeneous during storage. Copyright © 2011 Society of Chemical Industry     

Consumer Attitudes and Preferences for Fresh Market Tomatoes

This study established attractive attributes and consumer desires for fresh tomatoes. Three focus groups (n = 28 participants) were conducted to explore how consumers perceived tomatoes, including how they purchased and consumed them. Subsequently, an Adaptive Choice Based Conjoint (ACBC) survey was conducted to understand consumer preferences toward traditional tomatoes. The ACBC survey with Kano questions (n = 1037 consumers in Raleigh, NC) explored the importance of color, firmness, size, skin, texture, interior, seed presence, flavor, and health benefits. The most important tomato attribute was color, then juice when sliced, followed by size, followed by seed presence, which was at parity with firmness. An attractive tomato was red, firm, medium/small sized, crisp, meaty, juicy, flavorful, and with few seeds. Deviations from these features resulted in a tomato that was rejected by consumers. Segmentations of consumers were determined by patterns in utility scores. External attributes were the main drivers of tomato liking, but different groups of tomato consumers exist with distinct preferences for juiciness, firmness, flavor, and health benefits.     

Identification and characterization of fluid milk consumer groups

Consumption of fluid milk has steadily declined over the last few decades. Understanding the attributes of fluid milk products that are attractive to specific consumer groups may provide a sound basis for education and marketing to encourage increased dairy consumption and reverse the downward trend. The objective of this study was to identify the attributes of fluid milk that specific consumer groups find attractive and attributes that suggest a higher purchase likelihood. An adaptive choice-based conjoint (ACBC) survey was designed to assess attributes of fluid milk. The ACBC survey included Kano, importance, labeling identification, and beliefs questions to determine the key attributes that dictated consumer purchase and consumption. Self-reported purchase habits and attitudes for organic food products were also collected. Attributes in the ACBC exercise included fat content, package type, shelf life, and label claims. Maximum difference scaling was used to rank the importance of attributes in fluid milk that affected purchase. Maximum difference scaling was also used to rank qualities and issues associated with organic milk that were most motivating for those who identified as organic milk consumers. Results were analyzed by univariate and multivariate statistics. A total of 1,163 fluid milk consumers completed the survey, and of those, 434 were regular purchasers of organic milk. The ideal fluid milk from conjoint analysis was 2% milkfat, organic, packaged in a plastic jug, conventionally pasteurized, and contained no additives or label claims. The belief that “organic milk is healthier” was the most important motivator for purchases of organic milk, followed by the beliefs that “organic milk production encourages ethical treatment of animals” and “organic milk production supports local farms and farmers.” Conjoint importance scores of all fluid milk consumers showed that milkfat content was the most important attribute, followed by flavor, package size, and price. For all milk consumers, designation as organic was ranked as the 8th most important of 14 attributes. Evaluation of these results on both aggregate and individual levels suggest that fluid milk consumers are not a homogeneous consumer group and that underlying consumer groups are led to purchase decisions by specific product features or expectations.     

How Foam Appearance Influences the Italian Consumer's Beer Perception and Preference

The current study presents the results of a survey performed to investigate whether different patterns of foam and lacing affect consumer beer preference and the perception of beer characteristics. The impact of three different levels of foam (huge, medium and little) at pouring, and two lacing patterns (very laced to not laced) during consumption, was evaluated on a set of 26 attributes by a panel of Italian beer consumers. Overall, beers which delivered a medium level of foam at pouring were considered by Italian consumers as the best dispensed, the most liked for their visual appearance, the most attractive to consume and the most likely to be purchased. Cluster analysis determined four groups of consumers with different preference patterns for beer foam and expectations for sensory characteristics of the beer. It was found that 80% of consumers preferred a medium level of foam and no lacing, whereas 20% of consumers preferred a high level of foam and lacing. Furthermore, for nearly 40% of consumers, foam and lacing patterns generated expectations regarding beer sweetness, bitterness, fruitiness, perceived level of alcohol, effervescence and the thirst quenching character of the beer.     

Use of image analysis techniques for objective quantification of the efficacy of different hair removal methods

In the field of consumer‐used cosmetics for hair removal and hair growth reduction, there is a need for improved quantitative methods to enable the evaluation of efficacy and claim support. Optimized study designs and investigated endpoints are lacking to compare the efficacy of standard methods, like shaving or plucking, with new methods and products, such as depilating instruments or hair‐growth‐reducing cosmetics. Non‐invasive image analysis, using a high‐performance microscope combined with an optimized image analysis tool, was investigated to assess hair growth. In one step, high‐resolution macrophotographs of the legs of female volunteers after shaving and plucking with cold wax were compared to observe short‐term hair regrowth. In a second step, images obtained after plucking with cold wax were taken over a long‐term period to assess the time, after which depilated hairs reappeared on the skin surface. Using image analysis, parameters like hair length, hair width, and hair projection area were investigated. The projection area was found to be the parameter most independent of possible image artifacts such as irregularities in skin or low contrast due to hair color. Therefore, the hair projection area was the most appropriate parameter to determine the time of hair regrowth. This point of time is suitable to assess the efficacy of different hair removal methods or hair growth reduction treatments by comparing the endpoint after use of the hair removal method to be investigated to the endpoint after simple shaving. The closeness of hair removal and visible signs of skin irritation can be assessed as additional quantitative parameters from the same images. Discomfort and pain rating by the volunteers complete the set of parameters, which are required to benchmark a new hair removal method or hair‐growth‐reduction treatment. Image analysis combined with high‐resolution imaging techniques is a powerful tool to objectively assess parameters like hair length, hair width, and projection area. To achieve reliable data and to reduce well known image‐analysis artifacts, it was important to optimize the technical equipment for use on human skin and to improve image analysis by adaptation of the image‐processing procedure to the different skin characteristics of individuals, like skin color, hair color, and skin structure.     

Comparison of three microwave‐assisted drying methods on the physiochemical,nutritional and sensory qualities of re‐structured purple‐fleshed sweet potato granules

Purple‐fleshed sweet potato (PFSP) with high anthocyanin level was attractive to health concern. Three drying methods, namely microwave‐assisted freeze‐drying (MWFD), microwave‐assisted vacuum drying (MWVD) and microwave‐assisted spouted bed drying (MWSBD), were compared in the drying of PFSP granules. Product’s texture, colour, anthocyanin level and energy consumption were investigated. Drying periods varied among drying methods. MWSBD needed the least time to finish the drying process. Different drying methods had a significant effect (P < 0.05) on texture and anthocyanin level. Maximum penetration force of MWSBD treated sample was lowest (14.99 N). Anthocyanin level of MWSBD products was not as high as that of MWFD products, but colour and appearance were fine. MWFD products owned good crispness through sensory evaluation. Energy consumption of MWFD was about two times higher than that of MWVD. Final results indicated that MWSBD may be an alternative way to MWFD with measurements to maintain the anthocyanin level.     

Wool peptide derivatives for hand care

Hands experience much greater wear and tear during normal daily routines compared with most other parts of the body, and thereby demand specific needs from cosmetics targeted at hand care. Keratin proteins are the major structural component of the outer layers of the skin. In this work a novel keratin fraction from wool, which has high cystine content present in the S-sulphonated form, has been developed to target hand care applications. In vivo long-term studies were performed to evaluate the water-holding capacity and elasticity of hand skin following topical application of keratins. Moreover, protection of healthy skin against detergent-induced dermatitis was evaluated after topical application of the keratin-active formulation. Significant results in the measured biophysical parameters were found, which indicated an improvement in the skin's water-holding capacity, hydration, and elasticity for volunteers with dry skin as a result of the keratin peptide treatment. Results also indicated that the keratin peptide treatment can prevent some of the damaging effects associated with surfactant exposure.