山羊绒与细羊毛、牦牛绒、驼绒混纺产品中羊绒含量分析的探讨

山羊绒与细羊毛、牦牛绒、驼绒均为角朊蛋白细胞组成,结构特征相似,在测定其混纺产品中羊绒含量具有一定的难度,是检验部门面对的一大难题。本文介绍了动物纤维的结构特点,结合光学显微镜图片围绕着山羊绒与细羊毛、牦牛绒、驼绒的鳞片形态特征的差异,对这几种混纺产品中羊绒含量的定量方法做出探讨。     

毛绒类纤维鳞片结构特征鉴别

以羊毛、山羊绒及其它毛绒类纤维作为研究对象 ,采用带显示屏的高放大倍数的显微镜和配置优良的电脑对上述纤维的鳞片结构特征作定性的分析研究。具体工作包括 :样本的制备 ;仪器的配置与调试 ;利用计算机进行鳞片特征提取 ;羊毛、羊绒等各种动物纤维鳞片结构特征比较。     

不同动物纤维的毡缩性能分析

应用毡缩球法研究了羊毛、马海毛、兔绒、山羊绒、绵羊绒和牦牛绒的毡缩性能.先测量出6种纤维的摩擦因数,然后采用毡缩球法分别测量6种纤维的毡缩性能,分析兔绒与羊毛混纺以及马海毛与羊毛混纺时混合比对纤维毡缩性能的影响.此外,还分析了羊毛和马海毛长度对纤维毡缩性能的影响.得出兔绒与羊毛混纺、马海毛与羊毛混纺时混纺比对混纺纤维毡缩性能的影响规律,以及纤维长度对其毡缩性能的影响规律.     

Feltability of cashmere and other rare animal fibres and the effects of nutrition and blending with wool on cashmere feltability

Felting is a unique attribute of animal fibres used for the production of a range of industrial and apparel textiles. Felting can be an adverse attribute as a consequence of dimensional shrinkage during laundering. As there is little objective information regarding the feltability of rare animal fibres or the factors which may affect felting three investigations were undertaken. A survey (n?=?114) of the feltability of cashmere from different origins of production, cashgora, quivet, camel hair, llama, guanaco, bison wool, cow fibre and yak wool quantified the large variation between and within these fibre types. Cashmere from some origins and cashgora produced higher feltball density than the other fibres. Different nutritional management of cashmere goats (n?=?35) showed that cashmere grown by poorly fed goats had a lower propensity to felt compared with cashmere grown by better fed goats. A consequence of the progressive blending of cashmere (n?=?27) with a low propensity to felt superfine wool (high fibre curvature) increased the propensity of the blend to felt, but when the same cashmere was blended with low curvature superfine wool, there was little or no effect on feltability. The mechanisms which lead to variance in feltability of these fibres were quantified with multiple regression modelling. The mechanisms were similar to those reported for wools, namely variations in the resistance to compression, fibre curvature and mean fibre diameter, with likely effects of fibre crimp form. It is possible to source cashmere and other animal fibres which have different propensities to felt and therefore to produce textiles which are likely to have different textile properties.     

Variation in the softness and fibre curvature of cashmere,alpaca, mohair and other rare animal fibres

Softness of apparel textiles is a major attribute sought by consumers. There is surprisingly little objective information on the softness properties of rare animal fibres, particularly cashmere, alpaca and mohair. Samples of these and other rare animal fibres from different origins of production and processors were objectively measured for fibre diameter, fibre curvature (FC, crimp) and resistance to compression (softness). While there were curvilinear responses of resistance to compression to FC and to mean fibre diameter, FC accounted for much more of the variance in resistance to compression. Fibre type was an important determinant of resistance to compression. The softest fibres were alpaca, mohair and cashgora and all of the fibres measured were softer than most Merino wool. Quivet, llama, camel, guanaco, vicuña, yak wool, bison wool, dehaired cow down and Angora rabbit were also differentiated from alpaca, mohair and cashmere. There were important differences in the softness and FC of cashmere from different origins with cashmere from newer origins of production (Australia, New Zealand and USA) having lower resistance to compression than cashmere from traditional sources of China and Iran. Cashmere from different origins was differentiated on the basis of resistance to compression, FC and fibre diameter. Cashgora was differentiated from cashmere by having a lower FC and lower resistance to compression. There were minority effects of colour and fibre diameter variation on resistance to compression of cashmere. The implications of these findings for the identification and use of softer raw materials are discussed.     

几种动物绒絮料的热湿舒适性比较

利用自主研发的技术制作了几种动物绒纤维絮料以及动物绒与鸭绒的混纤絮料。通过对各种絮料热湿性能的测试比较,发现兔绒、绵羊绒、驼绒絮料的导热性能相当,而牦牛绒絮料的导热性偏大。在鸭绒絮料中混入一定量的牦牛绒或绵羊绒纤维时,其隔热性能略有下降,但能有效地阻止对流散热的增大。绵羊绒、驼绒、牦牛绒絮料的吸湿性能接近,且将一定量的上述纤维混入鸭绒絮料中时会提高絮料吸湿性能,但会降低其透湿性。     

牦牛绒与骆驼绒及羊绒的物理性能对比

针对牦牛绒纱线开发难度较高的现状,以研究牦牛绒纤维的可纺性为目的,对其物理力学性能,如表面鳞片结构、长度、细度、强伸性、卷曲性及摩擦性进行了分析,并与产品开发较为成熟的骆驼绒及羊绒纤维进行对比。结果表明：虽然 3 种纤维表面结构形态基本相似,但牦牛绒纤维长度较短、细度较细,相比骆驼绒及羊绒其纺制高支纱的难度也较高;因具有较高的整体强度和卷曲率以及较好的摩擦效应,纯纺难度低于骆驼绒及羊绒,用其制作的面料更具身骨。     

原色与脱色牦牛绒精梳纯纺纱工艺研究

针对牦牛绒纤维主体长度短、长度离散度大、含有大量粗死毛等导致无法使用现有毛精纺设备实现精梳制条的问题,通过采用便捷喂毛、高效预梳、低损伤分梳、落物充分回收装置组成高效分梳机构,将卷曲、块状绒团拉伸为基本伸直的单纤维状.在细纱工序,分别采用环锭纺、网格圈紧密纺、全聚纺纺制原色和脱色牦牛绒单纱和赛络纱,并对成纱质量进行测试...     

Determination of the Most Commonly Recognized and Used Keratin Based Luxury Fibers

There is a group of animal fibers known as “luxury fibers.” These are mohair, cashmere, camel hair, lama, alpaca, vicuna, guanaco, angora, yak, and quivit. In this study, the effects of demographical variables such as gender, education, age, sector, and income on the recognition and usage of luxury fibers in Thrace Region of Turkey were investigated. In order to analyze the obtained data, crosstabulation and chi-square statistical methods are used. According to the experimental results it can be said that the most commonly known and used luxury fibers are cashmere, mohair, and angora. The most important (37.6%) reason for participants to use luxury fibers is their warm feeling. On the other hand the most important (approx. 30%) reason for participants not to use them is that they do not have sufficient information about these fibers. It was determined that the most commonly (37.8%) used textile product made of luxury fibers is outerwear. Furthermore, it was found out that approximately 75% of participants accept paying more for garment containing luxury fibers because of their high quality.     

貂绒纤维的基本性能

通过貂绒纤维与山羊绒、骆驼绒纤维的对比,着重就貂绒的形态结构、密度、长度、细度、摩擦性能、卷曲、强力以及纤维的保暖性能等进行了研究。研究表明:貂绒纤维不同于山羊绒纤维,貂绒纤维含有髓质层,进而使得纤维的密度和断裂强度比山羊绒和驼绒小;而对于貂绒的其他基本性能:长度、细度、卷曲度和保暖性等均与山羊绒纤维类似,但与驼绒纤维却有着较大差异。由此可知,貂绒纤维与山羊绒纤维有类似的优良性能,在毛纺上有很高的利用价值。     

羊绒羊毛纤维线粒体DNA碱基对序列研究

物种不同,DNA序列亦不同,而生存环境、食物链等因素也会引起基因突变。文章对不同地区、不同种类的羊绒和羊毛纤维线粒体DNA进行测序实验,通过对实验所得序列的比较与分析,得出结论:羊绒羊毛纤维线粒体DNA序列的相似度达98%以上,但在特定的位置有各自的特征碱基序列;不同产地、不同种类的山羊绒纤维线粒体DNA的特征碱基序列基本一致,不同产地、不同类别的绵羊毛纤维线粒体DNA的特征碱基序列亦基本一致。     

Comparisons of the Fourier Transform Infrared Spectra of cashmere,guard hair,wool and other animal fibres

Fourier Transform Infrared Spectroscopy (FTIR), identifies chemical bands related to chemical bonds including amino acid groups. The potential for FTIR to differentiate animal fibres from different origins was investigated using cashmere (Chinese, Australian, Iranian), wool (Chinese, Australian), bison wool, qiviut from Musk-ox, vicuña and guard hairs present in these raw fibre samples. Cashmere from a controlled nutrition experiment with known amino acid composition was included in the study. While the intensity of FTIR spectra were moderately correlated with the content of some of the amino acids in cashmere, this investigation did not detect any significant systematic effects of nutritional manipulation of cashmere goats on the FTIR spectra of their cashmere. Significant differences were detected in the intensity of FTIR spectra between cashmere and wool, cashmere from different origins, white and coloured cashmere, and between cashmere and hair. The FTIR spectra of cashmere and wool overlapped with those of bison, qiviut and vicuña. The intensity of FTIR spectra were not correlated with the mean fibre diameter of samples but the intensity of most spectra bands were positively correlated with the fibre curvature of the samples (r = 0.27–0.38). Based on these results it does not seem likely that FTIR spectra offer a reliable method to distinguish between pure cashmere and blends of cashmere with wool or other animal fibre for diagnostic tests to determine the fibre composition in finished textiles.     

新型抗菌羊毛/羊绒混纺纱线生产工艺研究

目前羊毛羊绒类产品的抗菌处理,一般是通过与各类抗菌功能性纤维混纺或在织物后整理工艺负载抗菌剂来实现.本文采用色纺散纤在染色后处理阶段进行抗菌处理,然后通过半精纺色纺工艺生产抗菌羊毛羊绒混纺纱线,对其抗菌性能进行了测试.研究表明:通过在散纤染色后处理阶段对纤维进行抗菌处理生产出的羊毛羊绒抗菌混纺纱线其纱线指标与抗菌性能优...     

Comparison of structure and performance of Tianzhu white yak dress hair,tail hair and human hair北大核心

In order to provide a scientific basis to develop and utilize the tail hair and dress hair of the Tianzhu white yak, the hair fiber structure and the similarities and differences of Tianzhu white yak was compared with human hair. Using optical microscopy, scanning electron microscopy, and ultrastructure of the performance of the amino acid analyzer, spectrum analyzer, the Tianzhu White yak dress hair, tail hair and human hair were observed. The results showed that the range of the tail hair, dress hair and human hair fiber fineness are from 52. 5 pun to 109. 8 pim, the content of the marrow wool is 1. 8% to 17% ; the breaking force and elongation of the single fiber is greater than or equal to 60cN and 50% , respectively, three fibers are composed of 18 kinds of amino acids. The scales were arranged like clutter and the cross-section is oval or nearly circular. The performance and structure of the dress hair and tail hair of the Tianzhu white yak is similar to the human hair, the dress hair is more similar to the human hair, the is an ideal raw material, which to produce the ideal of high-end wig and suit lining raw materials.     

毛绒类产品易护理整理的工艺与实践

根据毛绒类产品的特性，羊毛鳞片厚，羊绒鳞片薄、少，拉伸羊毛纤维鳞片更薄，采取不同的加工方式：氯化—酶处理整理、预处理—树脂整理、保形平整剂整理，都可以取得较好的易护理效果，而且加工方式趋向环保。     

脱色驼绒的理化性能研究

将驼绒脱色前后的部分物理，化学性能，纺纱性能及染色性能与羊毛进行了对比。经过测试分析，发现驼绒脱色后吸湿性降低，强力略有下降，白度大幅提高，对纺纱，织造及服用性能没有显著影响，染色性能得到改善。     

竹纤维/羊毛/羊绒混纺产品的工艺设计

文章从竹纤维、羊毛、羊绒的风格特点出发,确定合理的混纺比和纱线支数,选择适宜的活性染料和酸性染料,优选工艺参数,制定出切实可行的竹纤维/羊毛/羊绒混纺织物(爽竹呢)的纺纱、织造和染整工艺.实践表明,该工艺能生产高档服装面料,产品的服用性能优异.     

PTT/牦牛绒包芯纱的纺制

PTT纤维具有较高的弹性记忆能力,深受消费者青睐;羊绒纤维具有较高的市场空间,但是价格比较昂贵,而牦牛绒纤维的特性类似于羊绒纤维,但是纤维长度较短。本文以毛纺系统为基础,介绍了PTT/牦牛绒包芯纱的工艺流程以及关键工艺技术,纺制的PTT/牦牛绒包芯纱具有较好的手感柔软、舒适,为牦牛绒纤维的多样化产品开发提供了研究基础。     

山羊绒纤维的拉伸性能

研究了山羊绒纤维的拉伸性能以及单纱的拉伸松弛性能,并与细支羊毛纤维进行对比。研究结果表明:山羊绒纤维的比强度、拉伸模量,松弛时间高于羊毛;在较小定伸长条件下,山羊绒纱线拉伸应力松弛速率慢于羊毛纱线,即山羊绒纱线比羊毛纱线难定形,这些力学性能的差异是由于山羊绒纤维α-结晶度高于羊毛;在80~130℃干热条件下,山羊绒纱线的拉伸应力松弛速率及其定形率均随温度的提高而提高;当温度高于120℃时,提高不显著。     

冬季用围巾保暖性能评价

为考察冬季用围巾的保暖性,以及消费者对冬季用围巾舒适性感受情况,通过面料红外热像测试和主观评价实验对冬季用围巾保暖性进行分析评价。从保温率和所测得的3组图像的结果均表明：牦牛绒/涤纶、羊绒、蚕丝制成的围巾保暖性能最好;保暖感觉主观评价从高到低依次为：羊绒、蚕丝、牦牛绒/涤纶、竹浆纤维、棉/粘胶/兔毛、涤纶/棉、粘胶/涤纶、粘胶围巾,与红外图像得到的结论基本一致,首次验证了红外热像等客观性测试结果与主观评价之间的一致性;建议厂家采用羊绒、蚕丝等天然纤维材质的面料和牦牛绒面料;消费者选择围巾时比较注重款式,在组织结构上宜选择联合组织或变化组织,利于展现围巾的花纹图案。