Encapsulating plant ingredients for dermocosmetic application: an updated review of delivery systems and characterization techniques

Today, there is a rising demand and ongoing search for novel plant-derived phytochemicals in the cosmetic market owing to the growing consumer expectations worldwide for green and natural health products. Various plant ingredients, including polyphenols, oils, volatile oils, vitamins and other herbal extracts, have been extensively used in herbal cosmetics. Recent advances in encapsulation technologies have greatly improved their chemical stability, biocompatibility, skin permeability and dermocosmetic efficiency when applied topically. This comprehensive review summarizes the up-to-date information on encapsulated plant ingredients tailored for dermocosmetic application with a focus on the development of novel delivery systems. An overview of the commonly used techniques for carrier characterization, performance-related properties and toxicological evaluation is also included, which might provide guidance for researchers to select or develop appropriate assay systems.     

Renewable sources: applications in personal care formulations

A global tendency for products considered environmentally sustainable, and ecologically obtained led the industry related to personal care formulations to fund the research and the development of personal care/cosmetics containing ingredients from natural resources. Furthermore, consumers are aware of environmental and sustainability issueans, thus not harming the environment represents a key consideration when developing a new cosmetic ingredient. In this study we review some examples of active ingredients or raw materials used in cosmetics/personal care/biomedical products that are coming from either through biotechnological systems, or as byproducts of several industries. A skin formulation containing biosynthetic actives, prepared by us and the study regarding its dermocosmetic properties are also described. The need for the standardization processes, the safety assessment tools, the improvement of the exploitation methods of these renewable sources in order the production to be ecologically and economically better are also discussed.     

Formulating for efficacy

Active ingredients have been around in cosmetics for a long time but have they really resulted in active cosmetic products? In order to achieve this, the right active needs to be delivered to the right location at the right concentration for the correct period of time. And the extent (and therefore the concentration) of this delivery depends on the formulation. From a rather theoretical approach based on the polarity of the active ingredient, the stratum corneum and the oil phase, the Relative Polarity Index was established that enables the selection of a suitable emollient for ensuring skin penetration of the active ingredient. Practical examples subsequently show the validity of this approach that demonstrates that one can regulate the delivery of an active molecule (and therefore the efficacy of a cosmetic formulation) by selection and control of the emollient system. Cosmetic formulations are generally quite complex mixtures and subsequent experiments using different emulsifier systems indicated that this component of a cosmetic formulation could also have an impact on steering the active ingredient to the right layer of the skin, although it is too early to be able to derive general rules from this.     

Multiparticulate carriers for sun‐screening agents

Many molecular sunscreens penetrate into the skin causing photo‐allergic and photo‐toxic reactions as well as skin irritations establishing an urgent need for the development of a safer sunscreen formulation. The search for active substances, efficient combinations, and the design of novel vehicles or carriers has led to the implementation of new cosmetic systems in contrast to the classic forms such as creams or gels. Amongst various approaches utilized to improve performance of sunscreening agents, the use of multiparticulate delivery systems is gaining increasing attention amongst researchers. Multiparticulate delivery systems can be incorporated into gels, creams, liquids, powders or other formulations, and can release active agents depending on their temperature, moisture, friction, volatility of the entrapped ingredients or time. These systems also have the ability of scattering or reflecting incoming UV radiations and therefore can act as physical sunscreens on their own.     

Biodegradable polymers as encapsulation materials for cosmetics and personal care markets

The topical and transdermal delivery of active cosmetic ingredients requires safe and non‐toxic means of reaching the target sites without causing any irritation. Preservation of the active ingredients is also essential during formulation, storage and application of the final product. As many biologically active substances are not stable and sensitive to temperature, pH, light and oxidation, they require encapsulation to protect against unwanted degradation and also to target specific and controlled release of the active substance. The use of biodegradable polymers as encapsulation materials offers several advantages over other carrier materials. Encapsulation of active ingredients using biodegradable polymeric carriers can facilitate increased efficacy and bioavailability and they are also removed from the body via normal metabolic pathways. This article reviews current research on biodegradable polymers as carrier or encapsulation materials for cosmetic and personal care applications. Some of the challenges and limitations are also discussed. Examples of biodegradable polymers reviewed include polysaccharides, poly α‐esters, polyalkylcyanoacrylates and polyamidoamine dendrimers.     

新技术在调香过程中的应用

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Application of nanoemulsion‐based approaches for improving the quality and safety of muscle foods: A comprehensive review

Recently, there has been growing interest in implementing innovative nanoscience‐based technologies to improve the health, safety, and quality of food products. A major thrust in this area has been to use nanoemulsions because they can easily be formulated with existing food ingredients and technologies. In particular, oil‐in‐water nanoemulsions, which consist of small oil droplets (<200 nm) dispersed in water, are being utilized as delivery systems for various hydrophobic substances in foods, including nutrients, nutraceuticals, antioxidants, antimicrobials, colors, and flavors. In this article, we focus on the application of nanoemulsion‐based delivery systems for improving the quality, safety, nutritional profile, and sensory attributes of muscle foods, such as meat and fish. The article also critically reviews the formulation and fabrication of food‐grade nanoemulsions, their potential benefits and limitations in muscle food systems.     

New association of surfactants for the production of food and cosmetic nanoemulsions: preliminary development and characterization

A new nanoemulsifing system has been developed. This study refers to an innovative association of polysorbate 80 and palmitic ester of l-ascorbic acid for the production of good stability and very thin nanostructured emulsions with average micellar diameter size ranging from 100 to 300 nm. This system has showed to be very performing to create nanoemulsions with moderate stirring rate and warming regimen thanks to the high efficiency of the association between ascorbyl palmitate and polysorbate-80 (PS-80). This nanoemulsified system is very easy to achieve and shows a very good capability to encapsulate several substrates of both nutritional and cosmetic usage such as melatonin, resveratrol, essential oils and steroidic terpenes such as boswellic acids and others. This system has been optimally applied to nutraceutical and cosmetic formulations and particularly to develop sprayable sublingual delivery systems for melatonin and the aforesaid molecules. This study describes developing and analytical characterization of this system containing melatonin.     

Formulation effects of topical emulsions on transdermal and dermal delivery

It has been recognized that the vehicle in which a permeant is applied to the skin has a distinctive effect on the dermal and transdermal delivery of active ingredients. The cutaneous and percutaneous absorptions can be enhanced, e.g. by an increase in thermodynamic activity, supersaturation and penetration modifiers. Furthermore, dermal and transdermal delivery can be influenced by the interactions that may occur between the vehicle and the skin on the one hand, and interactions between the active ingredient and the skin on the other hand. Emulsions are widely used as cosmetic and pharmaceutical formulations because of their excellent solubilizing capacities for lipophilic and hydrophilic active ingredients and application acceptability. This review focuses, in particular, on the effect of emulsions on the dermal and transdermal delivery of active ingredients. It is shown that the type of emulsion (w/o vs. o/w emulsion), the droplet size, the emollient, the emulsifier as well as the surfactant organization (micelles, lyotropic liquid crystals) in the emulsion may affect the cutaneous and percutaneous absorption. Examples substantiate the fact that emulsion constituents such as emollients and emulsifiers should be selected carefully for optimal efficiency of the formulation. Moreover, to understand the influence of emulsion on dermal and transdermal delivery, the physicochemical properties of the formulation after application are considered.     

Future developments in cosmetic formulations

In recent years, there have been a great deal of interest in applications of microemulsions, liposomes (vesicles) and multiple emulsions in cosmetic formulations. These systems will provide the cosmetic industry with new types of formulations which are easier to apply, better functional benefit and potentially safer formulations. Microemulsions are thermodynamically stable systems and hence shelf life is no problem. Many cosmetic ingredients can be adequately solubilized in the swollen micelles of the microemulsions. Such solubilized systems may enhance transport and diffusion through various barriers, eg., the skin, thus enhancing the efficacy of the formulations. However, microemulsions may cause skin irritation by disrupting the liquid crystalline structure of the stratum corneum. This problem may be overcome by formulating microemulsions, which on evaporation produce lamellar liquid crystalline structures. The problem of skin irritation is certainly reduced or eliminated using liposomes or vesicles, which offer an alternative to microemulsions. The principles for formation and stabilization of vesicles are discussed in this paper and research work is needed to produce nanocapsules from liposomes, using polymerizable surfactants. Multiple emulsions of the water/oil/water (w/o/w) or oil/water/oil (o/w/o) types are also valuable systems for formulating cosmetics. In the first place, they offer a means of sustained release of the various ingredients. Secondly, they allow one to separate the various ingredients in the formulation, thus preventing their possible interaction. The basic principles required for preparation of stable multiple emulsions are summarised. Developments of polymeric surfactants led to the formulation of stable multiple emulsions. An example of a recently formulated stable w/o/w multiple emulsion is given in this paper The stability of the system was investigated using optical microscopy. Creaming occurred on storage, particularly at high temperature (40°C) and this was significantly reduced by addition of Kelzan (a polysaccharide with high molecular weight). The final formulation was studied rheological techniques.     

Colloidal delivery systems in foods: A general comparison with oral drug delivery

The modern food industry is facing a stiff challenge of devising novel techniques for delivering functional ingredients without compromising the product functionalities. In recent times the focus on multi-disciplinary research has led to the translation of expertise and knowledge from one field to another. Likewise, the field of colloidal delivery systems which has a strong existence in the pharmaceutical arena can find a great deal of application in foods especially with the growing demand of functional foods. This article is an introductory mini-review about the colloidal delivery systems which can be used in foods. And a general comparison with oral drug delivery systems with respect to the ways in which the knowledge from drug delivery can be extended to foods and the factors which need to be considered for development of colloidal delivery systems for food ingredients.     

Application of microencapsulated essential oils in cosmetic and personal healthcare products – a review

Nowadays, the consumers around the world are increasingly focused on health and beauty. The renewed consumer interest in natural cosmetic products creates the demand for new products and reformulated others with botanical and functional ingredients. In cosmetic products, essential oils (EOs) play a major role as fragrance ingredients. They can optimize its proprieties and preservation, as well as the marketing image of the final product. Microencapsulation of EOs can protect and prevent the loss of volatile aromatic ingredients and improve the controlled release and stability of this core materials. The importance of EOs for cosmetic industry and its microencapsulation was reviewed in this study. Also a briefly introduction about the preparation of microparticles was presented. Some of the most important and usual microencapsulation techniques of EOs, as well as the conventional encapsulating agents, were discussed. Despite the fact that microencapsulation of EOs is a very promising and extremely attractive application area for cosmetic industry, further basic research needs to be carried out, for a better understanding of the biofunctional activities of microencapsulated EOs and its release modulation, as well as the effects of others cosmetic ingredients and the storage time in the microparticles properties.     

Microencapsulation as a tool for incorporating bioactive ingredients into food

Microencapsulation has been developed by the pharmaceutical industry as a means to control or modify the release of drug substances from drug delivery systems. In drug delivery systems microencapsulation is used to improve the bioavailability of drugs, control drug release kinetics, minimize drug side effects, and mask the bitter taste of drug substances. The application of microencapsulation has been extended to the food industry, typically for controlling the release of flavorings and the production of foods containing functional ingredients (e.g. probiotics and bioactive ingredients). Compared to the pharmaceutical industry, the food industry has lower profit margins and therefore the criteria in selecting a suitable microencapsulation technology are more stringent. The type of microcapsule (reservoir and matrix systems) produced and its resultant release properties are dependent on the microencapsulation technology, in addition to the physicochemical properties of the core and the shell materials. This review discusses the factors that affect the release of bioactive ingredients from microcapsules produced by different microencapsulation technologies. The key criteria in selecting a suitable microencapsulation technology are also discussed. Two of the most common physical microencapsulation technologies used in pharmaceutical processing, fluidized-bed coating, and extrusion-spheronization are explained to highlight how they might be adapted to the microencapsulation of functional bioactive ingredients in the food industry.     

Selective incorporation of the polar ingredients on the formulation of clear gels through phase diagrams

This paper attempts to systematize the preparation of cosmetic formulations by means of phase diagrams. The general criteria used to adapt the usually complex cosmetic systems to simple ternary diagrams W/O/S, consists of grouping the different ingredients according to their functional characteristics (hydrophilics, lipophilics and amphiphilics) that are located respectively in the corresponding vertices W, O and S. Thus, the polar ingredients are always incorporated simultaneously as a single phase, over the initial combinations O/S according to the classical titration procedure. Selective incorporation of the polar ingredients by means of the so-called double-titration procedures was studied. Independent consideration of the polar ingredients leads to modelling of the system in a regular tetrahedron in which the components are located at the four vertices. Several possibilities of double-titration procedures are considered in the tetrahedron depending on the different sequences of incorporating the polar ingredients. The results obtained show a critical influence of the double-titration procedures on two main aspects: limits of existence of the transparent gel realms, and rheological behaviour of some selected compositions. The different possibilities compared with the fixed characteristics obtained by the conventional method of preparation constitute an advantage in adapting a final formulation to the specific needs.     

Integrating toxicology into cosmetic ingredient research and development

Toxicity assessment of new cosmetic ingredients is often relegated to the end of the research and development (R&D) cycle. This is an inefficient development scheme, since toxicity concerns often lead to restrictions on the type of cosmetic applications the ingredient can go into and can even lead to abandoning the ingredient. This paper presents a tiered approach for integrating toxicology into cosmetic ingredient R&D. The tiered approach is flexible allowing a company to make cost-efficient use of readily available resources. Integrating toxicity assessment of new cosmetic ingredients early in the R&D cycle would help avoid developing ingredients with limited or no market potential due to toxicity concerns.     

The function of polyglyceryl erucate/isostearate/ricinoleate

Today, it is said that the formula design of cosmetics from ingredients of plant origin is an indispensable way and trend. From this consideration, cosmetic materials made from animal and synthetic petroleum ingredients are becoming less usable. Instead, cosmetic materials are designed from ingredients of plant origin and many and various botanical ingredients are being developed. Lanolin, which is one of the animal-based ingredients, is said to have ideal functions as a cosmetic oil, and it has been used in many fields such as make-up cosmetics as well as hair and skin care products for a long time. However, unfortunately, lanolin is an animal-based ingredient; therefore, the development of a botanical ingredient to replace lanolin was desired. Polyglyceryl-8 decaerucate/isostearate/ricinoleate, which we have developed, is an ester oil originating from plants and has an equivalent or higher function than lanolin. We have confirmed that our developed ester oil has various excellent characteristics such as a water-holding capability 2.5 times higher than that of lanolin, high air permeability, moisture keeping in dermal layers, protection of hair from changes in external environmental humidity, and excellent gloss and excellent dispersability of pigments. Thus, this newly developed ester oil is expected to be a promising new botanical cosmetic ingredient which can be applied in various fields.     

Transdermal delivery of two antioxidants from different cosmetic formulations

The efficacy of any cosmetic product containing a functional ingredient is determined by the skin delivery of the active molecule, which is influenced by the type of the vehicle and the molecule itself. This study was designed to compare the percutaneous absorption habits of the antioxidants carcinine and lipoic acid out of various formulations by means of the porcine skin model. Initial evaluation of the in vitro porcine skin model has demonstrated its feasibility for various substances and formulations [1, 2]. Increasing legal requirements for risk assessment in the cosmetic industry have led to the development of this alternative test method. The penetration properties are determined by the OECD Guideline TG 428: Skin Absorption: in vitro Method [3, 4], which allows the use of porcine skin for penetration studies. Porcine skin is used because of its similarity to human skin in terms of its morphology and the essential permeation characteristics [5]. The mass balances for each tested formulation type of the antioxidants show individual penetration behaviours with significant differences. The presented data plainly demonstrate that the lipophilic lipoic acid has a distinct higher penetration potential than the hydrophilic carcinine. The chosen vehicle can enhance or reduce the transdermal delivery of both tested antioxidants. Modern effective cosmetic formulations will work only, if the active ingredients penetrate into the epidermis. In conclusion, the correct selection of a suitable formulation plays an important role during product development.     

Legume proteins are smart carriers to encapsulate hydrophilic and hydrophobic bioactive compounds and probiotic bacteria: A review

Encapsulation is a promising technological process enabling the protection of bioactive compounds against harsh storage, processing, and gastrointestinal tract (GIT) conditions. Legume proteins (LPs) are unique carriers that can efficiently encapsulate these unstable and highly reactive ingredients. Stable LPs-based microcapsules loaded with active ingredients can thus develop to be embedded into processed functional foods. The recent advances in micro- and nanoencapsulation process of an extensive span of bioactive health-promoting probiotics and chemical compounds such as marine and plant fatty acid-rich oils, carotenoid pigments, vitamins, flavors, essential oils, phenolic and anthocyanin-rich extracts, iron, and phytase by LPs as single wall materials were highlighted. A technical summary of the use of single LP-based carriers in designing innovative delivery systems for natural bioactive molecules and probiotics was made. The encapsulation mechanisms, encapsulation efficiency, physicochemical and thermal stability, as well as the release and absorption behavior of bioactives were comprehensively discussed. Protein isolates and concentrates of soy and pea were the most common LPs to encapsulate nutraceuticals and probiotics. The microencapsulation of probiotics using LPs improved bacteria survivability, storage stability, and tolerance in the in vitro GIT conditions. Moreover, homogenization and high-pressure pretreatments as well as enzymatic cross-linking of LPs significantly modify their structure and functionality to better encapsulate the bioactive core materials. LPs can be attractive delivery devices for the controlled release and increased bioaccessibility of the main food-grade bioactives.     

Importance of food in probiotic efficacy

Foods are carriers for the delivery of probiotics to the human body. In addition, foods help to buffer the probiotic through the gastrointestinal tract, regulate their colonization and contain other functional ingredients, such as bioactive components, which may interact with probiotics to alter their functionality and efficacy. The growth and survival of probiotics during gastric transit is affected by the physico-chemical properties of food carriers. Gastric acid, juices and bile tolerance, adherence to gastrointestinal epithelium and the acid production of probiotics are also affected by the food ingredients used in probiotic delivery. Same probiotic strains could vary in functional and technological properties in the presence of different food ingredients. Prebiotic food ingredients encourage the growth of probiotic bacteria. The appropriate combination of prebiotics and probiotics manifest higher potential for a synergistic effect. Originally, probiotic delivery was consistently associated with foods, particularly dairy foods. But nowadays, there is an increasing trend toward using probiotics in different food systems despite its original sources and even as nutraceuticals, such as in capsules. This changing trend in delivering probiotics may lead to a reduction in functional efficacy due to the exclusion of the potential synergistic effect of the food. Thus, selection of suitable food systems to deliver probiotics is a vital factor that should be considered in developing functional probiotic foods. This review focuses on information related to the effect of processed food products on functional efficacy of probiotics.     

Technological,nutritional and sensory properties of pasta fortified with agro-industrial by-products: a review

Reducing food waste is a priority to move towards more sustainable food systems. Since agro-food by-products are often rich in healthy compounds, such as fibre, phytochemicals, protein, fatty acids, vitamins and minerals, the waste valorisation could move through their transformation into ingredients useful for the formulation of functional foods. Pasta is a staple food widely consumed all over the world representing an optimal carrier for nutrients delivery. The incorporation of ingredients of a high added value obtained by agro-industrial by-products in pasta can improve its nutritional value and provides several health benefits. At the same time, the inclusion of new ingredients could modify the physical, chemical and textural properties determining the change of the organoleptic characteristics of fortified pasta, affecting its acceptability. Thus, the preparation of new pasta formulations with high nutritional properties, good technological and sensory characteristics represents a challenge for the food industry.