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衬衫缝份抗皱防缩技术研究 总被引:2,自引:0,他引:2
缝份的抗皱防缩一直是提高衬衫外观平挺质量的一个技术难题.特别是选用全棉或羊毛等纯天然纤维含量较高的面料,缝制成型后的衬衫在袖窿与摆缝等处,其缝份起皱回缩现象更为严重.热熔胶网膜双面黏衬是克服袖窿与摆缝等处缝份起皱难题的首选材料;选用包芯缝纫线也可以减少缝线与面料缝份的缩率差异,辅助解决缝份部位起皱问题.由于缝制过程中需要将热熔胶网膜双面黏衬嵌置在易起皱收缩缝份中一起缝合,所以对缝纫机及工夹具有一定要求,然后再经专用定形压烫机熨烫,最终使衬衫各主要部位的缝份达到抗皱防缩要求. 相似文献
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袖子是与衣身袖窿相匹配的,脱离袖窿造型单纯去研究袖子结构是不合理的,其中女装合体袖结构与袖窿造型的关系尤为密切。现以女装合体袖为研究对象,试验分析了衣身袖窿对女装合体袖外观造型和活动舒适度的影响,通过不同袖窿造型的袖子纸样试验和穿着实验,结果显示:合体袖造型与袖窿宽关系密切,要制作与衣身协调的袖子,就要控制袖窿的宽度;袖子运动舒适性和后背宽紧密相关;通过前胸宽、袖窿宽与后背宽三者关系推导出袖肥和袖窿宽的计算公式,为制作合体美观的袖子提供理论依据。 相似文献
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分析了毛衫编织收针搭配的工艺条件,即对暗收针工艺,其收针搭配方案形成的线段斜率应大于或等于1。同时将收针搭配方案与袖窿形状进行结合,研究出袖窿收针的三段式算法及CAD技术,该算法将袖窿收针高度三等分,通过调整每1/3段横向上的收针比例来反映袖窿曲率及走势,最终只产生三段收针搭配方案。该三段式算法及CAD技术便于记忆和操作,具有很好的人机交互设计环境,人们可以根据不同款式风格的袖窿外观,灵活设定每段的收针比例,从而使收针搭配方案更好地满足毛衫袖窿形状。 相似文献
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衣袖作为服装造型的一部分,以筒状为基本形态,与衣身的袖窿相连接构成完整的服装造型。衣袖结构设计是影响服装穿着舒适度的关键因素之一。衣袖结构与肩部形态密切相关,袖窿和袖山的结构决定了人体上肢的活动范围。目前,女装衣袖原型还不能完全满足各种女性体型需求。为此,文章选取华中地区青年女性肩臂部若干特征参数进行数据采集,并对肩臂部形态进行细分,得出不同种类的袖山结构,通过调整袖窿深浅、袖山造型、袖身长短肥瘦及袖型装接等方式,使女装衣袖原型舒适、合体。 相似文献
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衣身袖窿的空间结构是三维服装设计中的重要环节。以袖窿的空间模型为研究对象,根据东华原型对袖窿的二维曲线进行修正和特征点分析,运用截面环建模的方法对袖窿进行三维建模,然后通过空间曲线拟合得到袖窿的三维数学模型,并对其进行检验和修正。 相似文献
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This paper reports upon the development of a new measuring procedure for seam pucker which is based on computer ‘vision’. The procedure is objective and is focused on the aesthetic property of the seam assembly. The results are presented in two parts; Part I reported on the development of a cognitive model for the measurement of seam pucker and Part II, described here, explains the model's implementation by using the computer ‘vision’ system. 相似文献
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Seam pucker is an area which is now receiving particular attention especially with the development of microfibre fabrics which are inherently prone to deformations during garment manufacture. Although fabric properties can be related to seam pucker, the aesthetic judgement is still left to subjective assessment which is based upon ranking the stitched fabric samples by judges having compared them with photographic ‘standards’. The shortcomings of this procedure are obvious; judges do not always agree, they need to be trained, the procedure is time consuming and non standardised. This paper reports upon the development of a new measuring procedure which is based on the use of a computer and a camera, ie computer ‘vision’. This procedure is objective and is focused on the aesthetic property of the seam assembly, by ‘modelling’ the cognitive process involved in seam pucker assessment The results are organised in two parts: Part I reports on the development of a cognitive ‘model’ for the measurement of seam pucker and Part II on the model implementation using the computer ‘vision’ system. 相似文献
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小波分析在织物缝纫平整度客观评价中的应用 总被引:1,自引:1,他引:0
提出一种基于小波分析的缝纫平整度客观评价方法,可以克服主观评价的局限性,使得缝纫外观质量的检测更加快速、准确。在对缝纫平整度标样图像进行处理的基础上,采用二维离散小波变换提取图像高频分量中细节系数的标准差作为特征向量,其在特定的分析尺度上随缝纫平整度的恶化呈现出明显的单调递增趋势。通过计算平整度评估因子(EK)确定了最佳小波和最佳小波分析尺度,从而建立了缝纫平整度等级的客观评判模型。采用棉织物的缝纫样本检验了模型,结果表明主客观评价的吻合度达到85%以上,由此验证了该方法的可行性。 相似文献
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《纺织学会志》2012,103(1):60-63
AbstractA simple model of a lockstitch seam (301) has been developed in part I, which is used to derive a measure of the severity of puckering in the seam.This article compares the numerical assessment of pucker, derived from the model in part I, with fabric mechanics experiments and visual assessments of the phenomenon. It is shown that there is good linear correlation between the two. The model is then used to evaluate with precision, which of a selection of stiffeners, is needed to reduce pucker to an acceptable level, without overstifenning the seam. This work has implications in design and garment construction and manufacture, and in easy care garments. For the first time the idea of, precisely selecting a siffener so that it can locally to the seam alter the mechanics of the assembly, is introduced, as minimum intervention in the combat of seam puckering. 相似文献
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In this paper the issue of automated seam quality control is addressed, focusing especially on seam pucker evaluation. Currently this task is accomplished by human experts considering five grades of quality. The proposed method estimates surface roughness of seam specimens producing robust and efficient novel features highly correlated to quality grades (QGs). At the initial stage, oblique illumination is applied and two-dimensional images of the specimens are acquired. The images are automatically rotated and centered in respect to the seam line and segmented into four regions. Each region produces an intensity curve through averaging, and roughness estimation is performed based on intensity mean deviation. Finally, a QG is assigned to each specimen using a k-nearest neighbor classifier (kNNc). A data set containing 211 seam specimens, created by two different kinds of fabric, has been used for testing and a correct classification rate of 81.04% has been produced matching up to the performance of human experts. 相似文献
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折纸造型改变了传统服装的结构模式与形态要素,形成了细致、优雅、活泼的独特设计风格。由于折纸造型给人生硬复杂的感觉,具体实现比较复杂,较难应用于服装中,但可以充分利用折纸造型工艺构成技术,来拓展女装制作及设计空间。本文通过系统地阐述折纸造型性质特点,提出折纸造型工艺构成技术,如扇形折叠、曲面折叠、折面折叠、几何型立体折叠、重复折叠、仿花造型折叠、仿生动物造型折叠等工艺构成技术,及其在女装设计中的应用,使之对折纸造型类女装的设计、制作有一定的参考。掌握折纸造型工艺构成技术在女装设计中的应用,使女装达到最佳造型效果,从而提高服装的功能美与视觉美。 相似文献
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由于缺乏对同一种面料缝缩方向性变化规律的了解,对缝缩的控制常常依赖于经验,为此研究了雪纺面料在不同方向上面料性能与缝缩的变化规律。在0°~360°范围内沿面料经向每隔10°分别取样并缝制,还包括45°、135°、225°和315°斜向角度,用FAST风格仪测定不同方向面料的弯曲性能、拉伸性能、剪切性能,分别测定面料不同方向的缝缩率,并通过AATCC标准对缝缩进行主观评价。分别建立面料性能方向性与缝缩率方向性以及主观评价值之间的回归预测方程,对合理选择面料丝缕方向进行服装造型设计及制作有指导意义。 相似文献