专利

专利名称：羊毛的生物技术整理方法;专利名称：一种用于羊毛拉伸细化后的多功能定形剂和定形工艺;专利名称：防止羊毛织物或者羊毛混纺织物收缩的方法;专利名称：细纱机紧密纺牵伸装置;专利名称：一种羊绒复合纱线.     

羊毛机织物的尺寸稳定性(续)

表Ⅱ内织物1及2的湿膨胀所以高的理由不难看出。这两种织物均属匹染,而匹染包括长时间沸染是优良的定形处理,于是增加了温膨胀。比较织物2及3。它们的组织相同,松弛回缩均极低,但匹染织物的湿膨胀数2—3倍于条染织物。除匹染外,在织物1的组织(马裤呢)中经纱卷曲特高亦为经向湿膨胀高的原因。注意马裤呢组织的纬纱卷曲较少,纬向湿膨胀亦较低。 除非改为条染,也尽可能地在整理中避免永久性定形过程,否则难于降低织物1及2的湿膨胀。即使改用条染,马裤呢经纱的高卷曲仍使织物趋向不稳定。华达呢及其它急斜纹织物亦然。 结论 (1)在服装制造工业中…     

中性染色条件下羊毛保护剂的作用

将实验室合成的 2种抗定形保护剂 (BP - 1和BP - 2 )应用于纯羊毛织物的中性条件染色试验中 ,以商用抗定形保护剂MiralanHTP和交联型IrgasolHTWNEW作为对照 ,对染色后织物的永久定形、湿膨胀及拉伸性能进行了测试。结果表明 :保护剂BP - 1和BP - 2在中性条件下对羊毛纤维具有良好的保护作用 ,优于目前商用产品。     

毛织物因加压蒸呢而引起的尺寸变化

本文研究了羊毛织物因加压蒸呢而引起的尺寸变化，讨论了能够引起尺寸变化的两方面原因，这两方面都与毛织物的湿膨胀性质有关。本文还研究了可以导致定形后织物明显的松弛回缩的尺寸变化的方式。     

分形理论在羊毛纱线定形中的应用

人们通常从分子微观角度解释羊毛纤维的化学定形原理,而忽略了纤维集合体之间的相互作用对定形效果产生的影响.为此,运用分形理论,从纤维与纤维间的相互作用这个宏观角度对羊毛纱线的定形原理进行研究,分别给出定形原理的分形维数解析和多重分形谱解析.结果表明:随着定形整理时间的延长,纱线分形维数先增大后减小,表明纱线结构趋于规则;...     

羊毛加莱卡产品的开发与生产实践

以羊毛加莱卡织物的开发为中心,详细介绍了在纺纱过程中氨纶丝的选择;弹力毛纱的纺纱方式;弹力毛纱的捻向、捻度、牵伸倍数;在弹性织物织造过程中,由于弹力毛纱特殊的纱线结构,在织物规格设计上的特殊调整;在染整过程中,依据氨纶线的特点,在湿整理、干整理、染色、高温定形的工艺;以及在纺、织、染生产过程中应注意的问题和生产实践经验。     

贴身穿羊毛混纺面料的热湿舒适性能对比

选取常见的4种羊毛混纺纱线制成轻薄羊毛混纺面料,然后对其热湿舒适性能进行测试与综合评价.结果 表明:混纺试样均使羊毛织物的导热性和透气性增强;羊毛/莱赛尔混纺织物的热湿舒适性综合表现最佳;羊毛/Coolmax涤纶混纺织物及羊毛/丙纶混纺织物的热湿舒适性综合表现较好,在温度适宜的条件下仍可用作贴身穿面料.     

羊毛/锦纶赛络菲尔针织产品的开发

赛络菲尔纺纱是一种新型的复合纺纱方法,以羊毛与锦纶长丝为原料,生产赛络菲尔复合纱,可有效地提高纱线强度、改善纱线条干,并可降低生产成本.介绍了纱线生产和筒纱染色的工艺,根据织物组织设计上机工艺,采用合理的后整理工艺对织物进行了洗呢、防缩、柔软和热定形等整理.织物的性能测试结果表明:生产的羊毛/锦纶赛络菲尔针织产品各项服用性能优良,是高附加值产品.     

山羊绒纤维的拉伸性能

研究了山羊绒纤维的拉伸性能以及单纱的拉伸松弛性能,并与细支羊毛纤维进行对比。研究结果表明:山羊绒纤维的比强度、拉伸模量,松弛时间高于羊毛;在较小定伸长条件下,山羊绒纱线拉伸应力松弛速率慢于羊毛纱线,即山羊绒纱线比羊毛纱线难定形,这些力学性能的差异是由于山羊绒纤维α-结晶度高于羊毛;在80~130℃干热条件下,山羊绒纱线的拉伸应力松弛速率及其定形率均随温度的提高而提高;当温度高于120℃时,提高不显著。     

文摘精粹

羊绒织物数码喷墨印花的应用与研究;毛棉设备结合加工半精梳羊绒纱的研究;羊绒筒子纱染色技术研究与应用;热传导与羊毛织物保暖性的关系;羊毛再生蛋白-聚丙烯腈共聚纤维染整加工;精纺毛织物平滑整理技术探讨;基于贝叶斯方法的山羊绒与细羊毛的鉴别;羊毛纱线电磁波定形方式的探讨。     

44—THE CONTRIBUTION OF THE BILATERAL STRUCTURE OF WOOL TO HYGRAL EXPANSION

Measurements are reported of the hygral expansion of yarns extracted from permanently set fabrics made from merino and Lincoln wools. For yarns having similar crimp, the hygral expansion of merino-wool yarn is much greater than that of Lincoln-wool yarn. The values in both cases agree with predictions based on single-fibre behaviour. It seems certain that this difference is caused by the presence of a consistent bilateral structure in merino wool, which is absent from Lincoln wool.     

Effects of pH on the stress–strain properties of wool fabric

In wool dyeing and finishing processes, fabric is often treated under conditions of different pHs and is subjected to a variety of physical and chemical environments. This work investigates fabric tensile properties at three different fabric pHs. Wool fabric extensibility under a 5 N/cm load was observed to be greatest at the wool isoelectric point of pH 4.8 and lower at both pH 2.1 and pH 7.2. The impact of pH on fabric extensibility was found to be similar to the variation in fabric hygral expansion previously observed. Fabric stress–strain curves at different pHs showed that for a given fabric extension level, the work required to stretch a fabric was less at pH 2.1 than at pH 4.8. These results suggest that the strength of wool fabric is at maximum when the pH of the fibres is close to the wool isoelectric point and that for consistency, the pH of fabric should be adjusted before standard strength tests are carried out.     

24—THE EFFECT OF FIBRE PROPERTIES AND WEAVE CRIMP ON THE HYGRAL EXPANSION OF WOVEN WOOL FABRICS

A study is reported in which 53 plain-weave and 55 twill-weave fabrics were produced under nominally identical conditions from different wool lots ranging greatly in fibre properties. The hygral expansion of these fabrics was measured and related to the various fibre properties and weave crimp.

It was found that fabric geometry, as reflected in weave crimp, was the most important factor contributing to hygral expansion, higher weave crimp leading to higher hygral expansion. Weave crimp also increased with an increase in staple crimp, as did hygial expansion, the effect of staple crimp being largely due to its effect on weave crimp.

Results obtained on the 108 all-wool fabrics and on six mohair fabrics produced under identical conditions to the all-wool fabrics indicated that weave crimp rather than fibre properties per se plays the main rôle in determining hygral expansion.     

竹/毛混纺织物的开发及其服用性能研究

文章以竹原纤维、羊毛为原料,经过纺纱、织造和后整理等加工工艺,在保证竹原纤维一定回潮率的前提下,织制成不同混纺比例的竹/毛混纺梭织面料,然后利用FAST织物风格仪对其刚柔性、折皱回复性、悬垂性等服用性能进行测试,通过综合研究与分析,得出竹/毛混纺产品的开发具有一定的可行性,当竹原纤维含量在50%左右时,可以控制织物的缩率达到2.5%.混纺织物中随着竹原纤维含量的增加,可改善毛织物的防缩性、尺寸稳定性、湿膨胀性、压烫效果、褶裥保型性和抗菌防臭、防紫外等功能.     

The dimensional and mechanical properties of wool/polyester fabrics made from vortex and ring-spun yarns

Fabric woven from wool/polyester (PES) Murata vortex spun (MVS) blend yarn is a commercially viable proposition particularly on the basis of advantageous wear-resistant properties, compared with fabric made from traditional worsted ring-spun yarn. However, in some early industrial trials with fabric made from 45/55-blend wool/PES MVS yarn, significantly greater relaxation shrinkage was found relative to comparable worsted ring-spun fabric. It was noted at the time that the amount of relaxation shrinkage in MVS fabric could be reduced to a large extent by using steamed MVS yarn.

In this study, the extent of variations in the dimensional and mechanical properties of fabric samples woven from a combination of steamed and unsteamed MVS yarn and equivalent worsted ring-spun yarn is examined. In general, greater hygral expansion and relaxation shrinkage were found in loom-state fabrics made from unsteamed MVS yarns, whereas the fabric made from steamed MVS and ring-spun yarns gave relatively low levels of relaxation shrinkage and hygral expansion. Permanent setting of fabrics, by pressure steaming, was found to be more effective than yarn pre-steaming in reducing relaxation shrinkage levels of fabrics made from unsteamed MVS yarn. After pressure steaming, all fabrics showed similar levels of relaxation shrinkage and hygral expansion.

Permanent setting of the fabrics, by pressure steaming, resulted in similar levels of relaxation shrinkage and hygral expansion, irrespective of the yarn production method; relaxation shrinkage fell to around 1% and hygral expansion increased by about 1%, relative to the loom-state samples. MVS fabrics were relatively heavier and fuller and had a firmer handle than the worsted ring-spun fabrics, reflecting the greater fabric weight, thickness and shear rigidity measured on these fabrics. These attributes are associated with different structures of the worsted ring-spun and MVS yarns used to make the fabrics.     

The Role of Stenter Settings in Determining the Dimensional and Mechanical Properties of Wool Fabric

A study of the relationship between stenter settings, the resulting fabric dimensional change, and some fabric properties of a finished wool fabric has revealed a significant interaction. It is shown that, with many stenter dryer settings used by the industry including overfeed, a wool fabric is stretched during drying. The study also indicates that the amount of stretch imparted during drying can have a direct influence on the important fabric properties of extensibility and hygral expansion.     

国内外轻薄型毛料制品性能的评价指标研究

文章用FAST仪对国内外轻薄型面料的加工性能进行了测试和主成份分析,结果表明,国内外轻薄型面料加工性能评价可用7个独立主成份来评价,第1主成份为可成形性,其它依次为湿膨胀主成份、厚重主成份、松弛回缩率主成份、经向弹性主成份、悬垂性主成份、剪切刚度主成份.国外面料的第一主成份可成形性值较高,国产面料较低.     

精纺毛织物染整专家系统初探

毛织物品质和风格特点主要是由毛织物的后整理即染整工艺来实现的。在系统分析和总结毛织物品质风格和染整工艺关系的基础上，提出了毛织物染整专家系统的设计思想和体系框架。根据毛织物染整工艺的知识特点，对于染整工艺的选择采用产生式规则知识表达方法，而对于染整工艺条件的确定则采用神经网络的推理及学习机制，给出了该专家系统知识库的实现步骤和方法。     

The effect of fabric strain during pressure steaming on fabric dimensional properties

It is shown that tension applied to fabric which is then permanently set by steaming under pressure for a short time has a significant effect on fabric dimensional properties. Increasing levels of stretch applied to fabric before pressure steaming resulted in decreases in fabric hygral expansion and relaxation shrinkage and also lowered fabric shrinkage that resulted from permanent setting. The setting conditions resembled those used in conventional pressure decatising, and it is suggested that in batch decatising, precise control of the length and width of fabric as it is batched up with the wrapper before steaming under pressure could enable predictable changes in fabric dimensions, relaxation shrinkage and hygral expansion to be obtained.     

不同防缩方法对羊毛性能的影响

为深入了解和掌握不同防缩整理方法对羊毛各项性能的影响,选用过氧化氢、次氯酸钠、高锰酸钾、壳聚糖、过氧化氢/壳聚糖和次氯酸钠/壳聚糖等6种防缩处理工艺,分别对羊毛纤维及织物进行防缩处理实验。测试防缩处理前后羊毛纤维的断裂强力、摩擦性能、表面形态和织物缩绒率等指标的变化情况,对比研究各种防缩方法对羊毛性能的影响。结果表明,从纤维损伤、织物缩绒性和环保性能等方面综合比较,在所选用的6种防缩方法中,过氧化氢/壳聚糖处理效果最佳。