主成分回归分析法在精纺毛织物透气性与结构参数关系模型构建中的应用

为了研究精纺毛织物透气性与基本结构参数的关系,利用主成分分析方法对织物基本结构参数进行降维处理,得到4个互相独立的主成分。以主成分为自变量,透气性为因变量,采用回归分析的方法建立了透气性与提取主成分的关系模型。结果表明:建立的回归方程Q=208.544+0.119Z1-0.036Z2-0.145Z3-0.331Z4,达到非常显著水平,对透气性进行预测是可行的。通过主成分分析可知,主成分Z1、Z4是决定精纺毛织物透气性的主要因素。     

几种不同组织结构的衬衫面料保形性研究

根据常见的衬衫面料组织结构,使用JC9.7 tex纱线设计了6种不同组织结构的面料,研究不同组织结构对织物保形性的影响。对面料的保形性(尺寸稳定性、抗折皱性、外观平整度、抗起毛起球性、顶破性、悬垂性)及舒适性(透气、透湿性)进行了测试。结果表明:组织结构对织物的折皱回复角、外观平整度等级、顶破强力、透湿量与透气率有直接影响;织物紧度太大、太小都不利于织物的折皱回复,相同紧度下斜纹组织的抗皱性比平纹好;6种组织结构中2/2斜纹组织抗折皱性最好,2/2方平组织的顶破强力、抗起毛起球等级最高,2/2破斜纹透气、透湿性最好,2/2斜纹组织具有良好的保形性。     

真丝和涤纶织物透气透湿性能研究

通过对真丝和涤纶两种织物的透气、透湿性比较,就不同原料与规格的织物透气透湿性之间的量化差异,探讨了织物厚度、总紧度、织物组织、纱线线密度及经纬密度等织物参数对织物透气、透湿性的影响。     

梭织/针织复合织物增强聚氨酯基复合材料性能

选用经编间隔织物与碳纤维梭织物作为增强体,聚氨酯泡沫作为基体材料制备复合材料。探讨织物厚度、表面结构和碳纤维梭织物加入与否对复合材料的透湿性能、透气性能、压缩性能的影响。结果表明：在厚度相同的情况下,双面大网孔的压缩性能和透气透湿性能优于双面小网孔;单面大网孔的透气透湿性能优于单面小网孔,但压缩性能略差。在间隔层厚度和织物网孔相同的情况下,单面双层复合材料的压缩性能和透气性能优于单面单层复合材料。     

超临界二氧化碳流体处理对苎麻织物的影响

采用超临界二氧化碳流体萃取的方法研究了超临界二氧化碳流体处理对苎麻织物的成分和性能的影响.通过测定苎麻织物胶质成分含量、上染性能、白度、强度、透气性能、毛细效应和透湿性能指标等,研究经超临界二氧化碳处理后苎麻织物的性能.结果表明:超临界二氧化碳处理可以降低苎麻织物中的胶质含量,提高苎麻织物的透气透湿性、毛细效应、染色性...     

舒弹丝棉混纺织物透通性能研究

探讨舒弹丝棉混纺织物的透气、透湿和紫外透过性能。以60/40舒弹丝棉混纺纱线、竹浆纤维纱线及防紫外锦纶长丝为原料,试织了不同原料组合的4个系列织物。通过对4个系列斜纹类不同组织系数的试样进行透气、透湿和紫外线透过性能测试分析,研究了不同原料及结构的变化对上述性能的影响。结果表明:在4个系列织物中,舒弹丝棉混纺织物的透气率、透湿量和紫外透过率均较低;对于斜纹类织物,组织系数在2.5左右时织物可能获得较好的透气性和透湿性。认为:舒弹丝棉混纺织物的优势主要在于紫外线透射比低,即防紫外性能较理想;采用斜纹类组织时,组织系数设计为2.5左右有利于改善织物的透气和透湿性能。     

新型热防护服用阻燃层面料的设计与性能

为开发新型热防护服,采用相同规格的Nomex~?ⅢA纱线,以平纹、2/2方平、2/2斜纹、3/1斜纹4种组织为基础,改变织物组织结构,设计织造了6种接结双层阻燃面料,研究织物组织对其弯曲性能、力学性能、透气、透湿性能及热防护性能的影响。结果表明：在织物经纬密相同时,织物结构越紧密,其弯曲性能、力学性能和热防护性能增加,透气、透湿性能下降;在6种织物中,表组织为平纹、里组织为2/2方平组织的1#织物的弯曲性能、力学性能和热防护性能最好,透气、透湿性能相对较差,比市售通用的阻燃层所在织物系统的热防护性能提高了67.53%。     

基于精纺毛织物物理机械性能的风格评价的主成分分析

为了研究精纺毛织物物理机械性能对其风格评价的影响,使用KES系统对织物的29项物理机械性能指标进行测试,采用主成分分析方法对指标进行了降维处理,得到6个互相独立的主成分。对主成分的构成和内涵进行了详细分析,结果表明:主成分Z1主要反映织物的织物硬挺感(含厚实感、轻重感)及弹性(突出纬向);Z2主要反映精纺毛织物的身骨(刚柔性)、活络(弹跳性),织物表面均匀平整度;Z3反映精纺毛织物弹性(突出经向);Z4反映精纺毛织物的蓬松、丰满风格;Z5主要反映精纺毛织物表面光滑程度及粗湿感;Z6主要反映精纺毛织物柔软风格。     

针织面料拉伸变形的透湿透气性能研究

选取织物透气率和透湿量两个指标,探讨了织物在不同拉伸状态下的透气和透湿性能,织物伸长对织物舒适性能的影响,确定了舒适性服装在穿着过程中的伸长范围。     

黏合剂对纳米纤维膜复合织物服用性能的影响

利用静电纺丝技术,将改性后苯乙烯系嵌段共聚物(SBS)与沥青混合纺丝,以涤/棉织物为基布作接收载体,制成纳米复合织物,满足了防水透湿的要求,但其力学性能及舒适性与传统织物相比,有一定的差异。为改善纳米纤维膜复合织物的服用性能和界面结合性能,探究了织物复合时3M胶和低温热熔网膜胶2种不同特性的黏合剂对复合织物的拒水性能、透气透湿性能及基本力学性能的影响。结果表明:使用低温热熔网膜胶黏合的复合织物拒水性能最佳,水接触角最大可达157°;使用3M胶黏合的复合织物透湿透气性能最佳,透气率为308.14 mm/s,透湿率为451.073 g/(m~2·(24 h));通过主因子分析,得到能反应复合织物力学性能的2个主因子,为复合织物服用性能评价提供依据。     

Coolmax纤维含量对交织物舒适性能的影响

对5种Coolmax／棉交织织物的吸水性、透湿性、透气性进行了测试,建立了Coolmax纤维含量与织物经向、纬向芯吸高度,透湿量、透气率的回归方程。结果表明随着纬纱中Coolmax纤维含量的增加,Coolmax／棉交织织物的吸水性、透湿性和透气性越好。     

Effect of structural parameters of porous yarns and fabric on air permeability and moisture transfer of double-face woven fabrics

In this study, effect of fabric structural parameters of double-face woven fabrics including kind of porous yarn namely micro-porous yarn and hollow yarn, hole size of hollow yarn, percentage of these yarns in double-face woven fabric structure, and finally weft density on air permeability and moisture transfer of woven fabrics was evaluated. These yarns were produced by using water-soluble continuous polyvinyl alcohol filaments as core part for hollow yarns and as doubling yarn in micro-porous yarn. Results revealed the effect of kind of porous yarn, hole size of hollow yarn, and weft density on air permeability and moisture transfer of woven fabrics. The percentage of porous yarns as weft did not show obvious trend. Analysis of variance was used to study the effect of these variables on air permeability and moisture transfer of double-face woven fabrics statistically.     

A study on thermophysiological comfort properties of fabrics in relation to constituent fibre fineness and cross-sectional shapes

The present study reports the effect of linear densities and profiles of polyester fibres on the physiological properties of their fabrics. Four different polyester fibre finenesses along with microdenier and four cross-sectional shapes (circular, scalloped oval, tetrakelion and trilobal) were selected to produce two sets of 2/1 twill fabrics; one composed of 100% polyester and the other 67:33 P/V blends. In studying the thermophysiological component of the clothing comfort, heat, air and moisture transmission characteristics of the fabrics were assessed. The principal thermal properties, such as thermal absorptivity, thermal resistance and thermal conductivity, were experimentally evaluated, using the Alambeta instrument. The study of the obtained results established the fabrics of non-circular cross-sections as against circular ones, and increase in the linear density results in higher thermal resistance, lower thermal conductivity and lower thermal absorptivity. Wicking behaviour of fabrics was studied under two conditions–wicking from an infinite liquid reservoir (transverse wicking) and wicking from a finite liquid reservoir (single drop wicking into the fabrics). Increase in fibre linear density enhances transplaner wicking but slows down the spreading speed of water drops. Air permeability and moisture vapour permeability are found to be positively correlated with fibre decitex. The role of fibre cross-sectional shapes in influencing mass-flow characteristics is quite considerable. Use of non-circular polyester in place of a circular one augments the wickability of liquid water along with the permeability of air and moisture vapour through the fabrics, revealing their high porosity, which assists air and moisture to propagate. Mixing viscose into polyester brings down the air permeability and moisture vapour transmission rate (MVTR) of fabrics. Results show that moisture absorption of viscose is an important factor in influencing the moisture transport characteristics including both wickability and MVTR of 100% viscose and P/V-blended fabrics.     

织物结构对服装服用性能的影响

文章通过对不同组织结构的织物进行保暖性、透湿性、透气性、毛细效应等相关性能测试对比,分析不同组织织物的性能特点,探讨不同织物组织与其保暖性、透湿性能的关系.     

舒弹丝机织物透湿性能的分析

选用60／40舒弹丝棉试织了具有不同紧密度和不同组织的18种机织物。通过对18种机织物进行透湿性能测试,采用SPPS因子分析法,探究舒弹丝棉机织物结构参数对透湿性能的影响规律。由因子分析得到的综合评价函数可以预测舒弹丝棉织物的透湿性,便于在生产中控制织物的结构参数。     

Investigation on permeability and moisture management properties of different denim fabrics after repeated laundering

The physiological comfort determined by air permeability and moisture management properties of fabrics is influenced by various constructional parameters of the fabric which give woven fabric a porous structure. Evaporation of sweat during wear has the potential to cool the body besides restricting the additional weight of sweat being absorbed by the fabric. In this study, comfort characteristics of denim fabrics with different weft yarn of cotton, polyester and core spun Lycra have been discussed. Effect of enzyme washing and repeated laundering on air permeability, moisture management and drying rate has also been discussed. It was observed that air permeability and water vapour permeability of unwashed denim fabrics with cotton weft yarn are significantly higher than the fabric with polyester and Lycra cotton weft yarns. The wetting time is higher for cotton and Lycra cotton yarn fabrics. One-way transport index is highest for Lycra cotton weft fabrics and lowest for fabrics with polyester weft. Fabrics with polyester weft yarns show highest spreading rate, spreading radius and drying rate due to better wicking and hydrophobic nature of polyester fibres.     

Role of filament cross-section in properties of PET multifilament yarn and fabric. Part I: Effect of fibre cross-sectional shape on transmission behaviour of fabrics

The transmission property of a fabric is a key factor that affects clothing’s comfort and decides the functional potential of clothing. The dependence of filament cross-section with varying shape factor (SF) on air, moisture and thermal transmission behaviour of fabric is determined in case of polyester multifilament woven fabrics. The linear density of each filament is kept identical for all 12 cross-section shape filaments. The SF of filament cross-section is an important factor which remained the prime factor to influence the transmission behaviour of fabric samples directly in many cases. Other indirect factors that influence the transmission behaviour of fabrics when the SF is identical are yarn structure, inter-fibre and inter-yarn space. Twelve different novel cross-sectional shapes are considered to make the multifilament woven polyester fabrics. The fabrics made from multifilament yarns having different SFs show that relative moisture vapour permeability and air permeability decrease with the rise in SF. Wickability increases with the rise in the SF of a filament cross-section. Multilobal, hexalobal and plus shapes were made a part of novel cross-sectional shapes in order to develop fabrics of higher comfort index.     

聚乙烯针织物的热湿舒适性能

为研究织物结构参数对聚乙烯针织物热湿舒适性能的影响,选取3种规格的聚乙烯长丝织成双罗纹针织物,并选用涤纶、凉感涤纶长丝制备相同结构双罗纹织物作为对比试样,研究构成织物的原料种类、未充满系数、捻度对织物孔隙率、透气性、导热及导湿性能的影响。结果表明:在织物结构相同的情况下,构成织物的原料、未充满系数与织物透气、导湿、导热等热湿舒适性能显著相关;纱线捻度与织物的导热及导湿性能显著相关;与涤纶、凉感涤纶织物相比,聚乙烯长丝表面存在沟壑,结晶度、取向度较高,其织物具有优良的透气、导湿和导热性能,是制备凉爽舒适功能纺织品良好原材料。