织物的悬垂性能比较

通过对面料的悬垂性能测试，得出不同类型的面料具有不同的悬垂性能，为服装设计师在选择面料时提供参才依据。     

真丝重绉织物服用性能研究

本文对真丝重绉类织物试样进行服用性能测试，结合服装对真丝重磅面料服用性能的要求，对所测数据进行了系统聚类分析，为真丝重绉织物的设计和服装的选料提供参考依据。     

新品毛纺服装面料的性能与服装造型、生产的关系

本文探讨了新品毛纺面料的性能与服装造型、生产加工的关系，从而为服装加工企业合理使用面料，提高生产效率及产品质量奠定了良好的基础。     

真丝重绉织物服用性能研究

对真丝重绉类织物试样进行服用性能测试，结合服装对真丝重磅面料服用性能的要求，对所测数据进行了系统聚类分析，为真丝重绉类织物的设计和服装的选料提供参考依据。     

真丝重绉织物性能与服装选料、加工的关系

通过对真丝重绉类织物试样的性能测试，结合服装对真丝重磅面料服用性能的要求，对所测数据进行系统聚类分析与综合评分计算，并进行缝制试验，为真丝重绉织物的设计和 服装的选料与加工提供参考。     

新品毛纺服装面料的性能与服装造型、生产的关系

探讨了新品毛纺面料的性能与服装造型、生产加工的关系，从而为服装加工企业合理使用面料，提高生产效率及产品质量奠定了良好的基础。     

织物性能与服装结构对女西服合体性的影响

为了掌握女西服的合体性随着面料性能和服装结构参数改变而变化的规律，本文采用2种织物性能对比明显的面料，通过实验，研究了开身、腰省分配比例等服装结构参数变化对女西服合体性的影响。     

影响涂层仿皮革面料的成衣加工性能因素分析

介绍了涂层仿皮革面料织物的基本性能特征,分析了影响涂层仿皮革面料的成衣加工性能因素,为企业制订该类服装的加工标准提供依据,以提高服装质量水平。     

基于面料性能的A字裙截面廓形分析及预测

为了探究面料性能与A字裙三维模型之间的关系，测试了15种典型面料的基础性能，并按照同一版型制成A字裙。利用手持式三维扫描仪获取点云数据，提取腰围、腹围、臀围的截面，并在截面曲线上以10°为步长确定角度线。利用相关分析和回归分析确定面料性能与截面角度线之间的相关性，并构建角度线预测模型。结果表明：面料性能对截面的宽厚比、面积的影响显著性较小，对截面不同位置处的角度线影响较大。面料的厚度、单位面积质量、纬向抗弯刚度与腰围截面部分角度线构成的回归预测模型拟合优度良好，通过GA-BP神经网络拟合的截面廓形与实际值误差在可接受范围内。研究结果可为A字裙面料选取及服装三维仿真提供参考。     

薄型面料与粘合衬最佳配合方法的研究

为了解决薄型面料粘衬后常出现的问题,采用不同规格的3种薄型面料和7种粘合衬,对其进行了力学性能测试与粘合性能测试,并通过面料与粘合衬的性能配合和工艺配合实验,为面料选出了最佳配合的粘合衬,为薄型面料选配粘合衬提供了便捷的方法,对服装生产有一定实际意义。     

国内外轻薄型毛料制品性能的评价指标研究

文章用FAST仪对国内外轻薄型面料的加工性能进行了测试和主成份分析,结果表明,国内外轻薄型面料加工性能评价可用7个独立主成份来评价,第1主成份为可成形性,其它依次为湿膨胀主成份、厚重主成份、松弛回缩率主成份、经向弹性主成份、悬垂性主成份、剪切刚度主成份.国外面料的第一主成份可成形性值较高,国产面料较低.     

Study on uniformity of wettability improvement of wool fabric treated by atmospheric pressure plasma jet北大核心

The influence of process parameters on uniformity of wettability improvement of wool fabric treated by atmospheric pressure plasma jet (APPJ) wettability was explored. The wool fabrics were treated by APPJ under different oxygen flow rate, jet-to-substrate distance and treatment time. The wetout time of wool fabrics before and after APPJ treatment was measured. The diffusion photos of water drop on wool fabric surface were taken by digital camera. The morphological and chemical changes on the fiber surface were characterized by scanning electron microscopy ( SEM ) and X-ray photoelectron spectra (XPS) respectively. It was concluded that the uniformity of wettability improvement of wool fabric treated by APPJ increased and then decreased with the increasing oxygen flow rate and jet-to-substrate distance and increased with the increasing treatment time.     

弹性毛织物的服用性能研究

采用实验方法对弹性毛织物和普通毛织物的服用性能进行了对比分析,结果表明:在织造毛织物时使用含有莱卡氨纶丝的弹性毛纱可有效地提高毛织物的弹性,弹性毛织物的耐磨性、压缩性以及透气透湿性能优于普通毛织物,悬垂性和抗起毛起球性能与普通毛织物基本相似。总体上讲,弹性毛织物的服用性能比普通毛织物好。弹性毛织物优良的服用性能使其服装伸缩自如、舒适合体,它迎合了现代人舒适随意、方便快捷的生活方式,越来越受到市场的欢迎。     

羊毛/粘胶/锦纶阻燃工装面料的开发

为解决高档防火工装制服透气性不佳、不易护理等问题,提高产品耐穿性,通过引入兰精公司阻燃粘胶与防缩羊毛纤维、锦纶纤维混纺,开发了一组羊毛/粘胶/锦纶阻燃工装面料。对新开发的羊毛/粘胶/锦纶阻燃工装面料与同组织规格的羊毛/涤纶、羊毛/锦纶面料进行阻燃性和耐磨性能的对比测试,结果显示:新开发的羊毛/粘胶/锦纶阻燃面料具有更优的阻燃性和较强的耐磨性,适当提高阻燃粘胶的含量可以赋予面料更好的阻燃效果。     

Comparative study on the effect of acid and alkaline protease enzyme treatments on wool for improving handle and shrink resistance

Wool is commonly treated with alkaline protease enzyme to improve handle and shrink resistance. The limitations associated with the usage of this enzyme on wool are excessive weight and strength losses and pH sensitive enzyme activity, etc. Wool is generally stable if processed in acidic conditions rather than alkaline conditions. This study explores the possibility of using acid protease enzyme to improve handle and shrink resistance of wool. The acid protease enzyme is applied on acid and alkaline peroxide bleached wool fabrics using optimized process parameters, and the results are compared with alkaline protease enzyme treated wool fabric. The acid protease treated fabrics show 30% higher softness than alkaline protease treated fabrics with 72% and 62% lower weight and strength losses, respectively. The alkaline peroxide bleaching prior to acid protease treatment provides 100% and 67% higher whiteness and shrinkage resistance, respectively, to wool than the acid peroxide bleaching. The action of the enzymes on wool and shrink resistance and handle of the treated fabrics is characterized using SEM, FT‐IR and KES‐F method.     

羊毛混纺户外运动服用针织面料开发与性能评价

为满足人们对春秋季户外休闲运动服装的需求,采用藏青羊毛纱、白色羊毛纱、涤纶丝以及锦纶丝为原料,在双面电脑提花机上开发4款羊毛针织面料,并选择2款规格相近的高密度面料作为对比样。对6种面料的耐磨性、顶破强力、抗起毛起球性、透气量、悬垂系数、克罗值、液态水分管理能力进行测试分析,采用模糊综合评价方法对面料的服用舒适性能进行评价,最后选出服用性能最好的羊毛针织面料,为羊毛户外休闲运动针织面料的开发提供参考。     

羊毛混纺耐高温阻燃织物的研究与开发

通过对国内阻燃纺织品应用前景的介绍,比较了羊毛混纺阻燃织物的加工方法,指出羊毛与阻燃纤维混纺织成的耐高温阻燃织物具有工艺简单,成本低,阻燃性能好,舒适性好,耐久性强的特点,详细介绍了羊毛与耐高温阻燃纤维,阻燃改性纤维的混纺产品及应用。     

Enzymatic treatment of wool fabrics - opportunity of the improvement on some physical and chemical properties of the fabrics

The enzymatic treatment of textiles significantly improves some of their physicochemical properties as well as increases their aesthetic values and comfort of use. Enzymes are used in order to develop environmentally friendly processes by reducing the concentration of chemical agents, water and energy consumption. In the present study, an attempt was made to treat the wool fabric with different concentrations (1, 3, and 5 g/L) of protease enzyme and observed the effects on physical and chemical properties including softness, absorbency, pilling resistance, weight loss, tensile strength loss, water retention, felting shrinkage, alkali solubility and urea-bisulphite solubility of wool fabric. The results of pretreated and enzyme-treated samples are compared to those obtained for untreated wool fabric. Enzyme-treated wool fabrics showed improvement in softness, absorbency, pilling resistance and felting shrinkage and a slight increase in weight loss, tensile strength loss, alkali solubility and urea-bisulphite solubility, and decrease in water retention of the fabric.     

羊毛功能性整理技术的进展

羊毛织物具有独特的外观风格与优良的保暖功能,且具有手感柔软、穿着轻盈舒适等特点,但也有易缩、易被虫蛀等缺点,为了适应市场需求的变化,必须开发功能性毛纺产品.文章从羊毛的防缩、阻燃、防菌防蛀、远红外、抗紫外线整理等方面,就各整理工艺的特点简单介绍了羊毛功能性整理技术的进展.     

纯毛织物抗皱整理工艺方法

由于羊毛纤维本身的化学组成和形态结构特征,使得纯毛织物在服用中极易起皱变形,缺乏可机洗性。文章探讨了纯毛织物的起皱原因与抗皱机理,综述了纯毛织物的乙二醛树脂、聚氨酯树脂、有机硅树脂、氯化钙、硝酸钙等几种新型无甲醛抗皱方法;分析了化学整理防皱、物理整理防皱、生物整理防皱、复合整理防皱的整理原理、工艺流程、整理后对织物各性能的影响及纯毛织物防皱整理今后的发展趋势。