古代波斯的染织艺术及其与中国的关系

古代波斯的染织业十分兴旺发达,其染织艺术吸收东西方各种艺术成就,形成了自己独特的风格,尤其在与中国的贸易交流中,古波斯的织造技艺和染织物的图案构成都强烈地受到中国的影响,同时中国也从古波斯的染织艺术中得到借鉴,发展了自身。古代波斯的染织艺术与中国有着密切的关系。     

古埃及染织物辨析

从埃及出土的公元初期和中古时期的亚麻和羊毛交织的科普特织物、亚麻蜡染纺织品、印度来源的和非印度来源的纺织品文物出发,介绍了古埃及染织发展与当时政治、经济、宗教、文化相联接的状况,比较详细地介绍了古埃及本土和外来纺织品的主要种类及其工艺特点;对这些古埃及不同历史时期的纺织品在当时社会中的宗教的、社会的影响力做了分析,同时纺织品贸易的繁荣也折射出了当时社会经济的状况,因此纺织品的染织设计脱离不了社会环境的影响。     

从欧洲近代染织业的发展看东方染织艺术对世界的影响（1）

目前以法国、意大利为首的欧洲染织业主导着世界纺织与服装界的潮流，然而回顾欧洲近代染织业发展史，以中国、印度为代表的东方染织业曾给予欧洲染织业以巨大影响。文章论述了欧洲丝织物和印花布的源起和发展，以及刺绣和花边的发展历史，说明欧洲染织业在近代工业革命的背景下，走过了一条向东方染织业学习、模仿，逐步掌握其技术精华，提高生产率，改造、创新染织产品，进而向东方国家输出产品、占领市场的道路。这也是当前我国染织服装产品走向世界的必由之路。     

筒子染色机的新功能

筒子染色机广泛应用于色织和针织行业，其新功能充分体现了高效短流程、低能耗和低排放等特点，通过自动化控制来提高染色的重现性和染色质量。文中对筒子染色机的主要功能和一些辅助功能进行详细的分析。     

纯棉高支强捻色织绉布的开发

详细介绍了纯棉高支强捻色织绉布产品的规格,经纬纱的选择,捻度的选择及织布的技术要点。认为在设计和生产过程中,纬纱捻度的选择较为重要。     

高温高压筒子染色工艺设计

筒子染色是色织工艺中的重要环节之一。本文从筒纱染色所需的原料,设备和工艺参数出发,较为详细地探讨了高温高压筒子染色工艺制订和实施的要点,难点,并具体介绍了筒子纱染色的生产实例。     

芳砜纶防护面料的开发与生产

探讨了采用芳砜纶纤维开发生产防护面料的生产工艺.实践表明:通过优化染色和织部工艺,解决了芳砜纶纱线刚性大、毛羽多、具有弹性等给染色、织造带来的技术难题,保证了产品的顺利生产.     

Effect of Lipase Pretreatment on the Dyeability of Wool Fabric

Abstract

The effect of lipase pretreatment on the dyeability of wool fabric with reactive dyes is thoroughly investigated. Two enzymes are applied, lipase type II and lipolase 100 L, type EX. The effect of treatment conditions such as temperature, time, and concentration of enzyme on the dyeability of wool fabric is studied. A comparative study between exhaustion and padding techniques of treatment is investigated. Kinetic investigations are also given on the dyeing process of wool fabric with reactive dyes. The treatments revealed improvement in the dyeability of wool with reactive dyes. The use of the enzyme pretreatment enables wool dyeing under mild temperature conditions with increasing dye consumption and an increase of the rate of dyeing. This is reflected as energy saving and reduction of pollution impact.     

短季棉低捻转杯纱的牛仔布织造工艺研究

根据实验用纱线的性能,选用了蓝加黑的染色风格及染色和上浆工艺路线,通过对织造特性的理论分析,确定了适宜短季棉牛仔布加工的织机工艺参数与工艺配置,并指出了生产过程中存在的问题及解决方法.试生产结果表明:织造过程顺利,布面疵点少,短季棉低捻转杯纱具有可织造性.     

Computational investigation on the flow characteristics in beam dyeing process

Abstract

Ensuring uniform addition of coloring material to the fabric is an essential requirement in the textile dyeing process. Beam dyeing machine consists of a special beam, the barrel of which is evenly perforated with holes. The dye liquor is forced into the fabric material through this beam. For uniform fabric coloring, an equal distribution of the dye liquor through the porous beam has to be ensured. The present methodology employs theoretical and computational fluid dynamics aspects of beam dyeing process to obtain better performance. The analysis of a beam with a single row of branches shows that nonuniformity increases with an increase in inlet mass flow. Further beam flow distribution with and without fabric are studied for different parameters, such as branch diameter, inlet mass flow rate, operating conditions, and flow reversal. The present results provide guidelines to improve the levelness of the dye distribution in the fabric material.     

Weaving the Two Cultures of Aotearoa/New Zealand Together: From the Art of Making Traditional Off-Loom Garments to a Contemporary Practice of On-Loom Weaving

Abstract

This paper explores the artistry of a renowned Māori artist and weaver and how this had led to her weaving work with the community, helping to develop skills to produce fine quality contemporary Māori weaving. It explains how Raranga – the art of Māori weaving is much more than simply skills and techniques and embodies the spiritual values of Māori people. The action of artists like Roka to develop skills and weaving are aimed to give a sense of pride and cultural identity. In particular the Māori cloaks and their symbolic significance have a special place within the Māori culture. This chapter explains the various materials and techniques used in this off-loom weaving. It discusses exhibitions that explored Māori weaving as art and that have led to her teaching people within the community to do this prestigious work at the meeting centre that she and her husband have rebuilt with community help.     

锦棉时装罗缎织物的开发

从原料的合理选用、组织的合理配置、变纬密与组织配合及印染后整理等方面着手,论述了锦棉时装罗缎织物的设计思路与方法,织物采用省综设计,以及双经轴织物的单经轴织造工艺,克服了双经轴织物织造效率低、织造难度大的缺点。     

涤纶DTY性能指标对后道织造的影响及控制

涤纶DTY产品多样,用途广泛,不同的织造机和织造技术对DTY有不同的要求,通过对涤纶DTY物化性能、染色性能、外观特性的分析,浅析主要指标对后道织造产生的影响,通过更新质量概念,以适应不同织物风格的要求,生产出符合后道织造要求的涤纶DTY产品。     

Influence of Enzymatic Pretreatment on the Colours of Bleached and Dyed Flax Fibres

SUMMARY

In this paper the effect of enzymatic bioscouring on the bleaching and dyeing of flax fibres was studied in comparison with conventional alkaline scouring. Enzymatic bioscouring was performed with a commercial multi-enzyme system consisting of pectinases, hemicellulases and cellulases. The enzyme and alkaline scoured flax fibres were subsequently oxidatively bleached with hydrogen peroxide and dyed with direct dye C.I. Direct Red 80 under the same conditions. The efficiency of both the scouring and bleaching processes was evaluated by weight loss and the whiteness of the bleached samples was determined according to CIE formula. The exhaustion profile of the used dye was followed on-line during the dyeing process using absorbance measurement. The colours of bleached and dyed samples were evaluated using CIELAB colour values. The residual pretreatment and dyeing baths were ecologically analysed with COD, TOC and BOD₅. The obtained results indicate that enzymatic scouring provides a lower weight loss, a higher degree of whiteness, comparable dyeing properties and is more environmentally friendly.     

色织物染整工艺与质量控制

对色织物生产中的色纱对样管理和常见的筒子染色大小样色差、批量性色差和后整理等影响染色质量的因素进行分析，并提出具体的生产工艺与控制质量的措施和方法。     

细旦涤纶/氨纶弹力织物的染整

介绍了细旦涤纶／氯纶弹力织物的织造与染整加工。通过引进国外先进的技术和设备，改进落后的生产工艺流程，解决了织造与染整过程中出现的工艺技术难题。     

Dyeing properties of natural dyes extracted from eucalyptus

A natural dye was extracted from Eucalyptus camaldulensis and was used to dye cotton by direct dyeing method at different dyeing conditions. Then, the fastness properties of dyeing with different dyeing techniques were compared.     

The use of natural Areca catechu dyes for silk and nylon and its halochromic effect

Abstract

In this study, we have investigated the use of betel nut (Areca catechu) extract solution as a natural dye for the use of dyeing for silk and nylon. Chemical structure of betel nut extracted solution was confirmed by using FTIR and ¹H NMR spectroscopy and thermal properties also measured for determining the proper dyeing temperature. In order to optimise the colouration properties, variable dyeing parameters (temp, pH and mordant type) was studied. The halochromic effect of synthesised natural dye was analysed by using UV–Vis spectroscopy. Additionally dye build-up, colour fastness properties of both fabrics were compared.     

浅议加快印染行业智能化和智能制造的发展

智能制造是纺织工业中的重要组成部分,相比化纤、纺纱、织造、服装等行业,印染行业的智能化和智能制造起步相对较晚、较慢,现状是“2.0补课、3.0普及、4.0示范”3个阶段并行。首先明确了智能化和智能制造两个概念;然后论述了印染行业进行智能化、智能制造的必要性和必然性,分析了我国印染行业智能制造存在的差距、问题以及发展趋势;最后结合当前国内的实际状况和技术改造发展方向提出建议:政府、行业制造全产业链都要加强重视、统一认识、明确目标,共同推进印染行业智能化和智能制造的尽快发展,促进印染行业制造全产业链升级转型,提高企业经济效益。     

新型XLA弹性针织面料

介绍了XLA纤维的微观结构、热力学性能、耐化学性和光降解性能，以及XLA纤维纬编针织面料的织造、染整设备及具体工艺参数，并分析了其在定形、丝光等染整加工中的技术关键和相应的控制措施.