桑蚕丝织物纰裂性能的缝合法试验分析

采用缝合法对35只桑蚕丝织物样品的纰裂性能进行测试,通过分析织物的组织结构、捻度、经纬密度等因素对丝织物纰裂性能的影响,探讨了产生纰裂的主要原因,并通过定负荷、定滑移量两种不同试验方法的比较,选择较适合桑蚕丝织物纰裂性能测试的方法,同时在定负荷法试验中对不同规格品种进行不同负荷的多次试验,提出了对桑蚕丝织物纰裂性能参数设立方案及指标要求的建议.     

真丝斜纹绸纰裂性能与测试方法

以滑移阻力和滑移量为评价织物纰裂的主要指标。参照国家标准中测试织物纱线抗滑移性的3种方法，对不同品号、不同后整理方式的6只真丝斜纹绸进行测试．研究真丝斜纹绸纰裂性能和适宜的测试方法。     

丝织物纰裂性能的缝合法研究

本文参照机织物中纱线抗滑移性国家标准及美国ASTM标准，采用缝合法测试不同规格的四种不同类型的蚕丝织物的纰裂性能，分析了影响织物滑移性能的因素。     

精梳毛织品脱缝程度的影响因素

为了解决精梳毛织品存在的脱缝问题,明确织物脱缝程度与服装缝子纰裂程度之间的关系,通过生产实践中的实验数据,重点分析了织物总紧度、织物组织、织物纬经向紧度比、纱线捻向、纱线捻度、后整理工艺对织物脱缝程度的影响。研究表明:织物脱缝程度可表征织物中纱线的滑移性能,缝子纰裂程度可表征服装成品的接缝性能;缝子纰裂程度测试施加负荷大于织物脱缝程度测试施加负荷,缝子纰裂程度一般大于织物脱缝程度约1～2 mm;织物总紧度越大织物脱缝程度越小;经纬纱线采用同捻向配置、纱线捻度增加织物脱缝程度越小;后整理采用缩绒工艺可以减小织物脱缝程度。     

采用机织物的撕裂性能预测其纰裂性能（英文）

从理论上分析了机织物撕裂曲线的形成机理,找出织物撕裂曲线上与纱线滑移相关的3个指标,即,撕裂曲线的初始斜率、峰升率和峰值距.为了证实采用织物撕裂曲线的这3个指标预测其纰裂性能的可行性,织造了5种不同织纹组织、不同紧度的织物样品,研究了样品织物撕裂性能的这3个指标与其纰裂性能之间的关系.研究结果表明,织物撕裂曲线的这3个指标与该织物的纰裂性能紧密相关,采用织物的撕裂性能预测其纰裂性能完全可行.     

对机织物纱线抗滑移性测试方法的探讨

分析机织物接缝处纱线滑移的原因,探讨机织物接缝处纱线抗滑移的测定与其他纺织服装产品标准中有关纰裂检测的一些问题,同时提出了一些建议。     

桑蚕丝织物生产纰裂的原因及防止

通过对纱、缎、绉、绡等桑蚕丝织物的检测，分析了织物的原料线型、组织结构、密度、后事理等因素对成品纰裂的影响，提出了减少纰裂的措施。     

桑蚕丝织物产生纰裂的原因及防止

通过对纱、缎、绉、绡等桑蚕丝织物的检测，分析了织物的原料线型、组织结构、密度、后整理等因素对成品纰裂的影响，提出了减少纰裂的措施。     

丝织物紕裂的成因及测试方法

丝织物的纰裂与所采用的原料、织物组织结构、织造工艺、练整、砂洗工艺及服用情况等都有一定的关系。文章就丝织物纰裂产生的原因和防止方法进行了讨论,并就目前三种测试织物纱线抗滑移性的国家标准的测试原理与方法作了专门介绍。     

丝织物纰裂的成因及测试方法

丝织物的纰裂与所采用的原料，织物组织结构，织造工艺，练整，砂洗工艺及服用情况等都有一定的关系，文章就丝织物纰裂产生的原因防止方法进行了讨论，并就目前三种测试织物纱线抗滑移性的国家标准的测试原理与方法作了专门介绍。     

竹丝绸织物服用性能研究

探讨了竹原纤维、竹浆纤维纱线与蚕丝交织的竹丝绸织物的服用性能.结果表明:竹浆纤维竹丝绸织物和竹原纤维竹丝绸织物均有华丽的光泽,白度较高;竹丝绸织物具有良好的吸湿性、透湿性、抗静电性、透气性;竹浆纤维竹丝绸织物相对柔软、褶皱弹性相对较好;竹原纤维竹丝绸织物挺括度很高,褶皱弹性相对较差.     

Effect of surface modification and knife penetration angle on the Quasi-Static Knife Penetration Resistance of para-aramid fabrics

The focus of this paper is to describe the effect of change in surface friction of single layer para-aramid (Twaron^®) square woven fabric and change in knife penetration angle on its Quasi-Static Knife Penetration Resistance (QSKPR). The surface friction of fabric was changed by depositing SiO₂ on its surface by using water glass as a precursor. Six different knife penetration angles (0°, 22.5°, 45°, 67.5°, 90° and 135°) were selected. Untreated and treated fabric samples were compared for change in QSKPR. It was observed that the deposition of SiO₂ on the surface of Twaron^® fabric increased the surface friction which resulted in the increase in QSKPR. The response of fabric against QSKPR changed from partial yarn cutting to individual yarn cutting in fewer steps and load was distributed to a larger area due to decrease in yarn slippage. The change in penetration angle changed the distance, knife cutting edge travelled to cut each next yarn(s) and when this distance increased, the QSKPR was reduced. The post-penetration image analysis of damaged fibres showed that the load distribution among warp and weft yarns was complementary and change in penetration angles changed the distribution of stabbing load among the warp and weft yarns. When yarns with higher tensile strength and less slippage were loaded, the fabric showed highest resistance to penetration. A QSKPR prediction model was also proposed at the end.     

丝绸面料熨烫时的热缩率分析

在同一温度不同放置时间以及不同温度条件下对丝绸面料的经、纬向热缩率进行测试，结果表明面料本身性能、熨烫冷却后的放置时问及熨间温度均会影响丝绸面料的热缩率。     

差别化柞/桑弹力真丝的弹性特征分析

对差别化／桑弹力真丝、柞蚕丝、桑蚕丝的急弹性和缓弹性进行了对比研究,分析了柞蚕丝、桑蚕丝与柞／桑弹力真丝之间弹力性能的联系,证明了纤维材料的差别对纤维性能的重要影响,同时也探索研究了差别化柞／桑弹力真丝具有良好弹性的理论依据。     

多重集聚纺纱结构成形机制及其针织物性能

为解决多毛羽传统环锭纱针织困难,而光洁的常规集聚纺纱线织物手感硬的技术难题,建立串联半开放式多重集聚纺纱方法,分析多重集聚纺纱机制和结构成形特征。理论分析结果表明,多重集聚纺纱线具有外紧而内柔的结构特征。基于理论解析,在相同工艺条件下,分别采用传统环锭、常规集聚和多重集聚纱线制成针织面料,对比分析了各针织物压缩回弹、透气、抗起毛起球、耐磨、染色等性能。测试结果表明：与传统环锭纱相比,多重集聚纱线针织物耐磨、透气性、抗起毛起球性改善;与常规集聚纱线相比,多重集聚纱线针织物悬垂性、压缩回弹性和染色性能明显提高。     

真丝纬捻线型弹性织物设计与弹性能力研究

通过对真丝加捻丝弹性能力的分析，得出制织全真丝弹性织物的捻系数，设计了多种风格的全真丝弹力绸，弹性能力达到中弹织物水平，证明用真丝加捻丝制织全真丝弹力绸是可行的     

半精纺机织衬衫面料的设计与性能研究

对半精纺机织衬衫面料的设计与服用性能进行了研究.选用丝/绒、丝/麻、毛/绒、纯绒4种半精纺纱线,设计了9种不同织物组织和密度的半精纺机织物,并对织物的规格,透气性、透湿性、吸水性等吸湿排汗性能,刚柔性、折皱回复性、抗起毛起球性及抗静电性等服用性能进行了测试与分析,以选择能够满足夏季衬衫服用要求的半精纺织物的组织结构和半精纺织物.其研究结果对半精纺机织衬衫面料的设计开发具有一定的参考价值.     

31—SOME ASPECTS OF THE MECHANISM OF SEAM SLIPPAGE IN WOVEN FABRICS

A theoretical analysis (subject to some assumptions) of the principles of seam slippage in woven fabrics is presented. It is shown that the amount of seam slippage, or fabric resistance to seam slippage, depends on such factors as yarn-to-yarn friction, yarn-to-sewing-thread friction, yarn flexural rigidity, and stitch and fabric geometry.     

A Study of the Mechanical Properties of Woven Silk Fabrics. Part III: A Study of the Extensibility of Continuous-filament Woven Silk Fabrics in the Small-load Region

Continuous–filament woven silk fabrics have a very low tensile modulus in the small-load region compared with woven fabrics of other fibres having a similar structure. In the silk fabrics, there may exist a small gap between the warp and weft threads at their crossover points because of the sericin-removing treatment that is applied after weaving. The tensile behaviour of a fabric with such a gap is considered to consist of two stages. In the first stage, the bent yarn alone is stretched in the initial state of tensile deformation without any mechanical interactions between the warp and weft threads. Since the bending rigidity of silk yarns is small and the gap is relatively large, the tensile modulus of silk fabrics becomes very low in the initial tensile region. After the contact of the warp and weft threads, the soft lateral-compressional property of the silk threads leads to extensibility of the silk fabric. This stage is called here the second stage, in which the tensile and the lateral-compressional deformation properties are mainly concerned with the tensile behaviour of the fabric in this region. Silk–fibroin fibre has a small fibre crimp, and this crimp also makes the silk yarn compressible. In this paper, the extensibility of silk fabrics is analysed, with a theoretical estimation of the extensibility, and an experiment to explain the reason for the high extensibility of silk fabrics is reported.