Photochromic microcapsules by coacervation and in situ polymerization methods for product-marking applications

Photochromic materials can change their colour quickly and reversibly when exposed to light of certain wavelengths. These materials have recently been of great interest for intelligent and functional textile applications. In this study, two different photochromic dyes, including 1′,3′-dihydro-1′,3′,3′-trimethyl-6-nitro-spiro[2H-1-benzopyran-2,2′-(2H)-indole] and 1′,3′-dihydro-8-methoxy-1′,3′,3′-trimethyl-6-nitrospiro[2H-1-benzopyran-2,2′-(2H)-indole], were microencapsulated by coacervation and in situ polymerization methods. Ethyl cellulose and melamine–urea–formaldehyde were used as polymers. The Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy, particle size and size distribution analysis, scanning electron microscopy, and ultraviolet spectrophotometry evaluations were utilized to characterize the structure, morphology, size distribution, and absorbance maxima of the photochromic microcapsules. The results indicated that photochromic microcapsules were in spherical shape, smooth, and homogeneous characteristics. These microcapsules were applied successfully onto cotton fabric using printing technique. Then, the activities of photochromic microcapsules on the fabrics were analysed by colour analysis under different light sources, fatigue resistance, washing, and rubbing fastness tests. After printing, the colours of the fabrics changed very quickly under different light sources. At the same time, these fabrics showed a reversible photochromic response and good fatigue resistance. Mechanical and physical properties of the fabrics such as thickness, air permeability and tensile and tear strength were also investigated. It can be concluded that photochromic microcapsules are well appropriate for brand protection and prevention of imitation in textile materials.     

An investigation of an instrument‐based method for assessing colour fastness to light of photochromic textiles

A new method for evaluating the light fastness of photochromic fabrics was established, aimed at replacing the conventional method with an instrumental method. This method was based on comparing the colour difference of photochromic fabrics after light exposure with measured values of the colour differences of the blue wool references after fixed periods of light exposure. This method benefits from replacing the traditional visual evaluation of colour difference between exposed and unexposed areas of textile samples with a more accurate, instrument‐based measurement of the colour difference. The light fastness is then evaluated by comparing the colour difference with tabulated values of colour differences brought about by light exposure, for increased periods of time, of standard blue wool references. This method could be used for measuring light fastness of both traditional and photochromic fabrics. However, blue wool references and tested samples should be exposed to light under similar conditions when using this method to measure colour fastness to light of fabrics.     

The study of colour fastness of commercial microencapsulated photoresponsive dye applied on cotton,cotton/polyester and polyester fabric using a pad‐dry‐cure process

Commercial microencapsulated photoresponsive dye was applied on cotton, polyester/cotton and polyester fabric using a pad‐dry‐cure process. Colour fastness of the photoresponsive fabrics to washing, wet cleaning, dry cleaning, rubbing and light was investigated. The CIELAB colour values of the fabrics before and after testing were measured using a reflectance spectrophotometer, and the colour differences were calculated to evaluate the fastness properties. The fabrics had better colour fastness to wet cleaning and washing than to dry cleaning. The fabrics showed higher colour fastness to wet than to dry rubbing. The photoresponsiveness of the fabrics decreased with prolonged exposure time to artificial light due to low photostability of the microcapsules.     

An innovative approach to the preparation of coloured and multifunctional silk material with the natural extracts from chestnut shell and black rice bran

In order to reutilise the byproducts of foods and crops to benefit the environment and economise on resources, the natural extracts from chestnut shell and black rice bran were applied in the simultaneous dyeing and multifunctionalisation of silk fabrics. In this work, the influence of pH value on dyeing properties was studied. The effects of the ratio of chestnut shell and black rice bran extracts and the application of mordants (aluminium potassium sulphate and ferrous sulphate) on the dyeing performance as well as anti-ultraviolet and antioxidant properties of treated silk were also discussed. The results showed that deep-coloured silk fabrics can be obtained when dyed with the two natural extracts as the pH value of the dyebath approached 3. The ratio of the two natural extracts and the use of the mordants have significant effects on colour depth, colour hue, colour fastness, and the functionalities of dyed silk fabrics. Combination dyeing and mordanting are able to enrich the colour hues of dyed fabrics. The washing, rubbing, and light fastness of the dyed fabrics after mordanting can be rated higher than grade 4. Moreover, the silk after combination dyeing has good UV protection performance (UPF > 30) and antioxidant activity. In addition, the functionalities of treated fabrics showed excellent washing fastness. This study reveals that chestnut shell and black rice bran extracts are suitable as natural colourants and multifunctional finishing agents for the preparation of coloured and multifunctional silk materials.     

Application of thermochromic colorants on textiles: temperature dependence of colorimetric properties

Commercial thermochromic colorants were applied to a conductive cotton fabric prepared by using nichrome/cotton core‐spun yarns in weft and 100% cotton in warp. The fabrics were pretreated and coloured with thermochromic pigments in isolation, in combination with each other, or in a mixture with a non‐thermochromic pigment. The weft yarns were joined to allow passage of current through the fabric to enable ohmic heat generation to increase fabric temperature. The heat generation and temperature rise could be controlled by monitoring the voltage applied. The colour of the samples changed gradually with an increase in temperature, and significantly so when the temperature of the fabric rose beyond the activation temperature of the thermochromic colorant. The temperature‐dependent properties of commercial thermochromic colorants were determined using a spectrophotometer. Wash fastness of the samples was found to be fair in all cases except with the yellow colorant. Predetermined colour effects, such as camouflage or novel design, can be produced by combining thermochromic colorants with conventional pigments or thermochromic colorants with different activation temperatures.     

Properties of ink‐jet printed,ultraviolet‐cured pigment prints in comparison with screen‐printed,thermo‐cured pigment prints

A collection of printed fabrics for men’s shirts was designed and prepared using computer‐aided design/computer‐aided manufacturing technology. The colours for designs were ink‐jet printed on cotton fabrics with pigments and ultraviolet‐cured. These prints represented the target colours for subsequent flat‐screen printing, which was performed using pigment printing pastes and thermal curing. For an exact transfer of colours of the ink‐jet‐printed standard into the screen‐printing process, a computer recipe prediction method was used. A comparison of colorimetric parameters of fabrics printed with both printing techniques shows minimal and acceptable differences in the CIELab colour values. A comparison of colour fastness properties proves that very good colour fastness is achieved on the pigment‐printed fabrics produced with both printing techniques. The flat‐screen‐printed fabrics show better colour fastness to washing, perspiration and rubbing, while ink‐jet‐printed fabrics show better colour fastness to dry‐cleaning and light. The fabrics printed with both printing techniques have high rigidity and non‐elastic properties. The mechanical and physical parameters are strongly dependent upon the amount of the dry substance of the printing media applied on the cotton fabric surface, which is higher on screen‐printed fabrics. The ink‐jet‐printed fabrics show better air permeability than flat‐screen‐printed fabrics.     

Dyeing properties of textiles by Turkish hazelnut (Corylus colurna): leaves,coat, shell and dice

Turkey has a great number of hazelnut trees that possess nutritious components. However, only the inside part of the hazelnut is used as a nutrient, while the rest of it is waste. This study suggests that the waste parts of the Turkish hazelnut could be used as a natural dye for dyeing textile fabrics. The dyeing properties of the leaves, coat, shell and dice of the hazelnut were studied on wool, cotton and viscose fabric by using three different mordants: copper sulphate, iron sulphate and aluminium sulphate. The selected dyed fibre sample surfaces were observed using a scanning electron microscope. The colour strength (K/S), light, washing, rubbing, and perspiration fastness levels of the dyed fabrics were investigated. The experimental natural dyeing results indicate that waste hazelnut‐based products can be used as a natural dye for textile coloration.     

Properties of differently printed and easy‐care finished linen fabrics

Linen fabrics were printed with reactive dyes, vat dyes and pigments. The prints were cured and after‐treated using conventional processes. Printed and unprinted fabrics were finished with low‐formaldehyde resin in a pad–dry–cure process. The mechanical properties (i.e. mass per unit area, flexural rigidity, tenacity at maximum load, wrinkle recovery angles and air permeability) with characteristics of printed and easy‐care finished fabrics were measured and the mutual influence of printing and finishing on these properties was discussed. Moreover, the colour difference between the finished and unfinished printed samples was measured, and the colour fastness to washing, appearance of fabrics after domestic washing, colour fastness to rubbing and light was compared.     

Modified guar gum: An alternative source for printing of cotton fabric with reactive dye

The alginate thickener is the thickener frequently used for reactive printing of textile. The thickener responds with reactive pigments and thus does not lead to the fabric composition becoming stiffer. In this study, we prepared oxidised natural guar gum with hydrogen peroxide, sodium hypochlorite and sodium hydroxide. All other polysaccharides comprise reactive hydroxyl units with a stronger reactivity that must be replaced if they are to be used in reactive printing. Guar derivatives were synthesised and verified using Fourier-transform infrared (FTIR) spectroscopy. Natural thickeners, synthetic guar gum derivatives, have been employed in textile printing technique. In comparison to other synthetic thickeners, modified environmental guar gum polymer has been shown to be an ecologically friendly and low-cost thickener. Cotton fabric printed with modified guar thickening with hydrogen peroxide has even stronger colour strength than fabric printed with sodium alginate thickener, which is highly favourable. Penetration properties, colour value, colour strength, colour fastness to washing, light and rubbing was compared with alginate thickener (readily available on the market). Guar gum thickeners showed enhanced features versus sodium alginate for reactive printing. Partially replaced guar gum is an appropriate option due to the colour and physical properties.     

A route from olive oil production to natural dyeing: valorisation of prina (crude olive cake) as a novel dye source

An attempt has been made to valorise an agroindustrial solid waste in natural textile dyeing as a novel dye source. The dyeing and fastness properties of prina (crude olive cake/pomace) extract were evaluated to fill the gap in this field. This very cheap biomass was utilised (80 g/l) by applying chemical solvent‐free aqueous extraction to dye wool fabric with only small amounts (0.2, 0.4, 0.8, and 1.6 g/l) of metallic mordants, namely alum, iron(II) sulfate, copper(II) sulfate, stannous chloride, and potassium dichromate, and avoiding the use of alkali, acid, chemicals, and auxiliaries in dyeing and washing processes. Colour shades of beige, cream, sandy, apricot, straw, cumin, mustard, olive, and khaki were obtained. Significant differences in colour strength and CIELab coordinates were observed, depending on mordant type and mordanting method. Copper(II) sulfate and iron(II) sulfate ensured the most significant colour changes and nuances, the darkest colours, and the best light fastness values. Prina extract itself (without mordant) has a light fastness of 3 (fair) and excellent wash fastness of 4–5, both for colour change and bleeding. Irrespective of the concentration and mordanting method, alum, stannous chloride, and potassium dichromate did not generate a light fastness improvement compared with the control sample. Although good light and wash fastness values have been achieved without mordants, it is necessary to use them to widen the colour gamut and to obtain increased colour strength.     

Comfort and reflectance properties of viscose/polyester blend fabric printed by vat/disperse dyes in visible/near-infrared region

In this study, a viscose/polyester fabric was printed by disperse and vat dyes to match the reflectance characteristics of the NATO black and green hues with forest environment in the visible/near-infrared (Vis-NIR) reflection spectrum. The black and activated carbon nanoparticles were also added to the printing paste to match the reflectance of hues. Color components and Vis-NIR reflective behavior of printed fabrics were measured by reflection spectrophotometer. The rubbing, washing and light fastness, water absorption time, air permeability, bending length, and crease recovery angle of printed fabrics were also studied. Additionally, the strength properties of samples were measured. The reflectance behavior of the samples showed that the use of the black and activated carbon nanoparticles results in diminution of the Vis-NIR reflection. The strength, air permeability, and bending length of printed fabrics have decreased, while the angle of crease recovery and the time of water droplet absorption have increased. The rubbing, washing, and light stabilities of printed samples were also measured as appropriate.     

Light fastness and high‐temperature stability of thermochromic printing inks

Thermochromic printing inks are known for their low stability under the influence of various external conditions, but the consequences of the phenomenon on dynamic colorimetric properties have not yet been analysed. In this work, thermochromic prints were exposed to light and heated at two different temperatures, 150 and 200 °C, for varying time periods. The changes to the dynamic colour properties of the samples were described. It was found that both exposure to light and heating to high temperatures degrade the dynamic properties of thermochromic inks; however, they have different effects on the colour hysteresis. The corresponding loops contract with light exposure and heating, which is best described by the area of the entire colour loop. Exposure to light broadens the corresponding loop, while heating makes it narrower. The chemical stability of inks after exposure was also analysed by forced oxidation applying weakly ionised oxygen plasma. Stability of thermochromic samples is a combined effect of the binder, the polymeric shell and the active core inside the pigment capsules. The results show that poor stability against light and high temperatures has different origins.     

An approach to sustainable coloration of lyocell fabrics by screen printing using extracts of leaves and bark from eucalyptus

This paper presents an initial study from a more extensive programme of research at the design/technology interface that is focused on the use of design methodology as a means to lower the environmental impact of fashion clothing. The leaves and bark that are byproducts of the responsibly farmed eucalyptus used in the manufacture of lyocell fibres were extracted with water to provide a source of natural colour. Lyocell fabric, which required minimal preparation, was screen printed with an aqueous paste containing only the extracted colour and a natural thickener to provide attractive golden‐yellow prints. The printed fabrics demonstrated surprisingly good fastness towards light, washing and rubbing. A mordanting pretreatment of the lyocell with alum modified the colour of the naturally coloured prints to become stronger and duller, but provided no advantage in terms of technical performance. The outcome presents a potentially useful model for the development of sustainably coloured fashion textile products.     

Direct coloration of textiles with photochromic dyes. Part 1: Application of spiroindolinonaphthoxazines as disperse dyes to polyester,nylon and acrylic fabrics†

1,3,3‐Trimethylspiroindoline‐2,3′‐3H‐naphth[2,1‐b][1,4]oxazine ( 1a ) and 6′‐piperidino‐1,3,3‐trimethylspiroindoline‐2,3′‐3H‐naphth[2,1‐b][1,4]oxazine ( 1b ) were applied as disperse dyes to polyester, nylon and acrylic fabrics. Under optimised dyeing conditions, photochromic fabrics were produced which, on irradiation with ultraviolet or exposure to sunlight, turned blue ( 1a) or blueish‐purple ( 1b ). Dye 1a showed enhanced photochromic colour change performance compared with dye 1b . The photochromic colour build was highest on nylon and lowest on acrylic fabric. The colour change properties and the technical performance (wash fastness and photostability) of the photochromic fabrics were evaluated using specifically adapted colour measurement methods. The data were analysed in terms of variation of lightness, a*, b*, chroma, hue angle and ΔE, colour difference before and after exposure, and K/S curves as a function of irradiation time. The fabrics generally showed good wash fastness. Although the colour build‐up decreased with exposure to the Xenotest fadeometer, some residual photochromism remained after prolonged exposure.     

UV‐assisted screen‐printing of flat textiles

An approach to printing of flat textiles is presented in this work. A screen‐printing method was applied on a cotton fabric. An aqueous printing paste was prepared from thickening and crosslinking agents and an ultraviolet‐sensitive tetrazole ring‐based compound of 2,3,5‐triphenyltetrazolium chloride or nitrotetrazolium blue chloride. After the printing process, a pattern was just visible with the naked eye. The development of colour occurred after exposure of the textile to ultraviolet light of 253.7 nm and was caused by the transformation of 2,3,5‐triphenyltetrazolium chloride or nitrotetrazolium blue chloride salts into the corresponding formazans, which are insoluble in water. The printed designs were resistant to washing. The stability of the colour of the samples is discussed in the case of prolonged irradiation, both with ultraviolet light of 253.7 nm and with daylight. This method of printing is a recent proposition for creative textile designing. It also seems to indicate a likely type of dye that may be further developed as potentially attractive for ultraviolet‐assisted printing or dyeing of textiles.     

Dyeing of polyester and its blends with some disazo dyes derived from the disodium salt of chromotropic acid and their chelates with transition metal ions

Disazo dyes derived from the disodium salt of chromotropic acid and their chelates with metal ions were applied on polyester, polyester/cotton and polyester/wool blend fibres as disperse dyes. The fastness to washing, perspiration, rubbing and light of the resultant dyeings were measured. The bonding of dye or its complexes to the fibre and the effect of substituent groups on the colour fastness of the dyes are discussed.     

Studies on quinoline type dyes and their characterisation studies on acrylic fabric

Nitrogen heterocyclic fluorescent compounds and their possible dyeing pathway on acrylic fabrics was investigated. Their chemical spectral properties, including fluorescence and ultraviolet–visibility, were evaluated in this work. The colour fastness properties of these dyes attributable to light reflection and washing were examined. The CIE L*, a* and b* values after the dyeing process were studied and the colour fastness properties were also determined. Two quinoline derivatives showed stronger fluorescence properties and were also demonstrated to be non‐cytotoxic towards human HaCaT skin keratinocytes at a reasonable dose. These results led to speculation that these two compounds could be further used as dyes in various textile applications.     

Optimisation of process parameters of Alpaca wool printing with Juglans regia natural dye

The aim of this research study was to optimise the process parameters of Alpaca wool hand‐knitted samples screen‐printing with Juglans regia natural dye and to set the optimal conditions regarding colour yield, colour fastness and colouristic properties of printed samples. An extensive preliminary examination of the Alpaca woollen yarn and hand‐knitted samples characteristics, the characteristics of suitable thickeners and the optimisation of the printing paste composition, was performed. A starch‐based thickener, British Gum, with a dry matter content of 4% was selected due to its rheological properties responding to properties of the Alpaca yarn and knitwear. It was determined that the fluidity increases while the viscosity and the elasticity decrease in acidic pH, so a pH of 4 was set for the thickener preparation. The thickener of lower viscosity and higher fluidity assures easier pressing of printing paste through the screen, giving uniform colour yield on the substrate, contributing to easier absorption of dyes into the fibre. A 45‐minute fixing process at 105°C by steaming delivered the best results of printing quality. Iron sulphate was used as the mordanting agent. The colour fastness to washing, dry and wet rubbing, and to light, was tested for samples with and without mordanting. The highest light and washing fastness were obtained with the iron sulphate mordanting agent printed in acid (pH 4) with paste containing 4% dry matter‐based thickener. The rubbing fastness was satisfactory for samples with iron sulphate printed with paste containing 4% dry matter thickener, fixed for 45 minutes, regardless of the pH.     

Properties of UV-cured pigment prints on textile fabric

This paper studies and evaluates the UV-curing of pigment prints on textile fabric using a prototype UV scanner. A printing paste comprising synthetic thickener, emulgator, binder, pigment dispersion and photoinitiator was applied using a flat screen printing technique onto the cotton fabric, then dried and exposed to heat or UV-radiation under a mercury vapour lamp (200 W cm⁻²). The characteristics of cured prints such as paste add-on, colour properties, colour fastness to washing and dry/wet rubbing were evaluated, together with fabric stiffness. The effects of UV-curing were evaluated by Attenuated Total Reflectance Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (ATR-FTIR). The properties of the UV-cured pigment prints were compared with those of the thermal cured prints. Analyses of the obtained results helped to define the optimum composition of the photo reactive pigment paste, and the UV-curing conditions under which satisfactory results were obtained, comparable with those from the thermal curing method.     

Synthesis of temporarily solubilised azo disperse dyes containing a β‐sulphatoethylsulphonyl group and dispersant‐free dyeing of polyethylene terephthalate fabric

Disperse dyes containing a β‐sulphatoethylsulphonyl group have temporary solubility and can be applied for dispersant‐free dyeing of hydrophobic fibre. Six novel temporarily solubilised azo disperse dyes having a β‐sulphatoethylsulphonyl group in their structures were synthesised, and their dyeing properties on polyester were investigated. As a dye intermediate, a diazo component having dibromo groups was prepared, and 4‐diethylamino‐4′‐(2‐sulphatoethylsulphonyl‐4,6‐dibromo)azobenzene dyes were prepared by a diazo‐coupling reaction. Then, the dyes containing dicyano groups were prepared by cyanation of corresponding dyes with dibromo groups. The absorption maxima of the dyes were affected by the substituents in the diazo and coupling component rings and varied from 434 to 616 nm in dimethylformamide. Polyethylene terephthalate woven fabric could be dyed with the synthesised temporarily solubilised dyes without using any dispersants. Dyebath pH affected the K/S value at maximum absorption as well as percentage exhaustion on polyethylene terephthalate fabric, and the optimum pH was 5. The dyes gave brownish orange, red, purple, and greenish blue hues on polyethylene terephthalate fabrics, and colour build‐up was good. Wash fastness was good to excellent, rubbing fastness was moderate to excellent, and light fastness was poor to moderate.