浅谈面料材质与服装造型的关系

面料在服装设计中是一个非常重要的基础,同时也是服装的物质承载者。不同材质的面料对服装造型的影响很大,同时也影响着穿着者的感受。本文主要探讨面料材质与服装造型的关系。为了在以后的服装设计中可以更重视面料的选择以及在造型设计上可以通过选择不同的面料来完成。     

面料再造与服装风格的统一关系

当服装设计的造型、色彩、图案等要素已不能满足服装设计师的创新要求时,面料的创新再造就成了设计师寻找设计突破点的重要部分。阐述了面料再造的方法与效果、服装风格的分类,侧重阐述了面料再造时,除了注意肌理的丰富表现外,更要掌握面料再造的风格与服装风格的统一关系。     

纺织面料特点对服装设计的影响

服装设计的三要素分别为面料、色彩及款式,研究表明,每一次的时装改革潮流都是面料引起的。不同特点的纺织面料经过服装设计师的创新和设计,将面料的特性和风格与服装的造型和款式相结合,能够创作出不同风格的服装。基于服装设计和纺织面料之间的联系,服装设计时选择面料是非常重要的内容。     

绣缀艺术在服装立体裁剪中的应用

绣缀艺术是一种服装面料的变形设计。它极大限度地展现了面料的材质美和服饰美,凸显了鲜明的个性和独特的服饰风格。它改变了服装和面料的整体形态,形成了一种生动、高雅、细致的设计风格,使服装的视觉美感和功能得到新的诠释。服装立体裁剪是一种创造性思维活动,具有很强的变化。通过系统分析绣缀艺术的造型性质,拓展了服装立体裁剪的设计空间。     

从视觉情感角度分析牛仔面料与造型的关系

通过对牛仔面料中传递给大众的视觉情感因素进行剖析,从其物理属性入手,多元素客观深入地解析牛仔面料的特性。分析牛仔面料与造型风格的关系,探讨了牛仔服装面料对造型的影响,阐述了发挥牛仔面料特性是其造型设计的关键。本文对于服装设计师进行牛仔服装的设计具有一定的实践意义和理论参考价值。     

面料再造与服装风格的关系

服装设计是一个复杂的行为。风格对于服装而言就象性格对于人一样。面料可以说是服装设计风格的基调，好的服装设计师本身也应该是好的面料设计师，用材料去思考，把握其特性．并用审美的眼光对面料的材质、肌理和图案等方面进行开发和再造，创造出“能引起诗意反映的物品”，无疑对服装风格的实现提供了更为广阔的物质条件和创意空间。     

毛纺面料特性对服装设计的影响

探讨毛纺面料特性对服装设计、面料裁剪及缝制的影响。通过分析毛纺面料中毛纤维与面料的特性,表明不同规格的毛纺面料不仅具有不同的视觉特性与外观特性,表现穿着者不同的气质与精神面貌,而且对毛纺服装的款式、波浪造型、图案等外观效果设计及服饰舒适性、裁剪、缝制的工艺选择也具有一定程度的影响。因此在毛纺服装设计过程中应根据毛纺面料中纤维特性、织造工艺、图案、色彩搭配等对服装款式设计、裁剪及缝制工艺进行选择,开发风格与功能相统一的毛纺服装。     

浅析面料再造艺术在服装设计中的运用

在时尚潮流瞬息万变的今天,传统面料的设计方法已经不能满足人们对服装个性化的需求,在这种情况下,面料再造艺术应运而生,为服装的发展注入了一股新鲜的血液。面料作为服装三要素之一,不仅可以诠释服装的风格和特性,而且直接左右着服装的色彩、造型的表现效果。文章就服装设计中面料再造艺术的应用进了分析。     

机织面料对服装造型的影响因素分析

服装风格的构成跟织物的特点有很大的关系,纤维的种类不同、纱线的结构不同、组织结构的不同都会造成不同的服装风格。因此,对机织面料构成的各种要素进行分析和对比,可更深层次地了解机织面料对于服装造型到底存在着哪些影响的因素。     

面料性能对服装褶裥造型影响的研究

服装造型是形成服装风格、体现服饰美的重要因素,服装造型除了受款式和设计的影响外,面料性能也是决定性因素之一。为此,通过试验探讨了面料力学性能对服装褶裥造型效果的影响和制约,使这一完全凭主观经验评价的过程得以量化。研究结果可以方便服装材料的选用,利于根据材料设计不同风格的服装,对服装设计和生产具有一定的参考价值。     

Reliable identification of grapevine rootstock varieties using RAPD PCR on woody samples

Since grapevine ( Vitis spp .) rootstock material is being traded increasingly as disbudded woody material a lack of distinctive morphological features on such material necessitates an alternative and reliable means of identification. Methods described here were developed for rapid and efficient extraction of DNA from woody samples rich in phenolic compounds and polysaccharides, and for subsequent identification of varieties by RAPD PCR. Using these methods, and with the application of only one selected RAPD primer, we were able to differentiate sixteen rootstock varieties, including the seven varieties most commonly used in Germany. Problems commonly encountered with reproducibility of RAPD patterns were avoided by choosing primers with a dinucleotide sequence and a high G/C content that allowed a rather high annealing temperature of 45°C. Methods described here should also be useful for other horticultural crops, especially those with woody tissues rich in phenolic compounds and polysaccharides.     

An internet compendium of analytical methods and spectroscopic information for monomers and additives used in food packaging plastics

An internet website (http://cpf.jrc.it/smt/) has been produced as a means of dissemination of methods of analysis and supporting spectroscopic information on monomers and additives used for food contact materials (principally packaging). The site which is aimed primarily at assisting food control laboratories in the European Union contains analytical information on monomers, starting substances and additives used in the manufacture of plastics materials. A searchable index is provided giving PM and CAS numbers for each of 255 substances. For each substance a data sheet gives regulatory information, chemical structures, physico-chemical information and background information on the use of the substance in particular plastics, and the food packaging applications. For monomers and starting substances (155 compounds) the infra-red and mass spectra are provided, and for additives (100 compounds); additionally proton NMR are available for about 50% of the entries. Where analytical methods have been developed for determining these substances as residual amounts in plastics or as trace amounts in food simulants these methods are also on the website. All information is provided in portable document file (PDF) format which means that high quality copies can be readily printed, using freely available Adobe Acrobat Reader software. The website will in future be maintained and up-dated by the European Commission's Joint Research Centre (JRC) as new substances are authorized for use by the European Commission (DG-ENTR formerly DGIII). Where analytical laboratories (food control or other) require reference substances these can be obtained free-ofcharge from a reference collection housed at the JRC and maintained in conjunction with this website compendium.     

Aroma characterization of various apricot varieties using headspace–solid phase microextraction combined with gas chromatography–mass spectrometry and gas chromatography–olfactometry

The characterization of the aromatic profile of several apricot cultivars with molecular tracers in order to obtain objective data concerning the aromatic quality of this fruit was undertaken using headspace–solid phase microextraction (HS–SPME). Six apricot cultivars were selected according to their organoleptic characteristics: Iranien, Orangered, Goldrich, Hargrand, Rouge du Roussillon and A4025. The aromatic intensity of these varieties measured by HS–SPME–Olfactometry were defined and classified according to the presence and the intensity of grassy, fruity and apricot like notes. In the six varieties, 23 common volatile compounds were identified by HS–SPME–GC–MS. Finally, 10 compounds, ethyl acetate, hexyl acetate, limonene, β-cyclocitral, γ-decalactone, 6-methyl-5-hepten-2-one, linalool, β-ionone, menthone and (E)-hexen-2-al were recognized by HS–SPME–GC–O as responsible of the aromatic notes involved in apricot aroma and considered as molecular tracers of apricot aromatic quality which could be utilized to discriminate apricot varieties.     

Tests of potential functional barriers for laminated multilayer food packages. Part I: Low molecular weight permeants

The advent of the functional barrier concept in food packaging has brought with it a requirement for fast tests of permeation through potential barrier materials. In such tests it would be convenient for both foodstuffs and materials below the functional barrier (sub-barrier materials) to be represented by standard simulants. By means of inverse gas chromatography, liquid paraffin spiked with appropriate permeants was considered as a potential simulant of sub-barrier materials based on polypropylene (PP) or similar polyolefins. Experiments were performed to characterize the kinetics of the permeation of low molecular weight model permeants (octene, toluene and isopropanol) from liquid paraffin, through a surrogate potential functional barrier (25 μm-thick oriented PP) into the food simulants olive oil and 3% (w/v) acetic acid. These permeation results were interpreted in terms of three permeation kinetic models regarding the solubility of a particular model permeant in the post-barrier medium (i.e. the food simulant). The results obtained justify the development and evaluation of liquid sub-barrier simulants that would allow flexible yet rigorous testing of new laminated multilayer packaging materials.     

Analysis of benzo[a]pyrene in spiked fatty foods by second derivative synchronous spectrofluorimetry after microwave-assisted treatment of samples

A simple, rapid and inexpensive method has been developed for the determination of benzo[a     

The development of reference materials for paralytic shellfish poisoning toxins in lyophilized mussel. II: Certification study

This paper describes the second part of a project undertaken to develop certified mussel reference materials for paralytic shellfish poisoning toxins. In the first part two interlaboratory studies were undertaken to investigate the performance of the analytical methodology for several PSP toxins, in particular saxitoxin and decarbamoyl-saxitoxin in lyophilized mussels, and to set criteria for the acceptance of results to be applied during the certification exercise. Fifteen laboratories participated in this certification study and were asked to measure saxitoxin and decarbamoyl-saxitoxin in rehydrated lyophilized mussel material and in a saxitoxin-enriched mussel material. The participants were allowed to use a method of their choice but with an extraction procedure to be strictly followed. The study included extra experiments to verify the detection limits for both saxitoxin and decarbamoyl-saxitoxin. Most participants (13 of 15) were able to meet all the criteria set for the certification study. Results for saxitoxin.2HCl yielded a certified mass fraction of <0.07 mg/kg in the rehydrated lyophilized mussels. Results obtained for decarbamoyl-saxitoxin.2HCl yielded a certified mass fraction of 1.59+/-0.20 mg/kg. The results for saxitoxin.2HCl in enriched blank mussel yielded a certified mass fraction of 0.48 +/- 0.06 mg/kg. These certified reference materials for paralytic shellfish poisoning toxins in lyophilized mussel material are the first available for laboratories to test their method for accuracy and performance.     

Announcing a new international peer-reviewed journal:Food Science and Human Wellness now accepting manuscript submission in English

<正>We are pleased to announce the launch of a new international peer-reviewed journal-Food Science and Human Wellness,ISSN 2213-4530,which is an open access journal,produced and hosted by Elsevier B.V.on behalf of Beijing Academy of Food Sciences.Food Science and Human Wellness is an international peer-reviewed English journal that provides a forum for the dissemination of the     

Chinese CTP Market

According to Printing and Printing Equipment Industries Association of China（PEIAC）＇s statistics to the plate manufucturer in China, in 2013, the actual offset plate production has reached 346 million square meters in China. Among them, the CTP production volume was 245 million square meters, up by 11% than that of last year; the total sales of the CTP plate was 239 million square meters, up by 13%.     

Preparatory Work of Print China 2015 is Going Smoothly

正Held at Guangdong Modern International Exhibition Center,Print China 2015 will cover 7exhibition halls,besides the original Hall No.3,4,5,6,7,the newly built F zone of Hall 3 will be used too.The total area will be140,000 square meters.Hall 3:Offset and large printing equipment,package printing equipment,post press