An innovative study on dyeing silk fabrics by modified phospholipid liposomes

Modified phospholipids from the commercial soybean lecithin were prepared via acetylation of the acetone insoluble fraction phosphatidylethanolamine. N‐Acetyl‐phosphatidylethanolamine was used to prepare liposomes for encapsulating anionic dyes (acid and reactive dyes) to be used in dyeing silk fabric. Size measurements of the liposomes showed that the maximum vesicle size was 36.61 nm for empty liposomes in comparison with 39.08 and 39.75 nm for acid dyes and 51.78 and 59.20 nm for reactive dyes. The efficiency of the micro‐encapsulated dyes to dye silk fabric has been investigated and compared with the conventional dyeing process using different parameters. It was confirmed that the acetylated acetone insoluble fraction liposome shows better encapsulation of the reactive dyes and achieves more dye uptake than the acid dyes. It was also found that fastness properties of dyed silk with micro‐encapsulated anionic dyes did not change significantly more than the conventional dyeing method. Reuse of the micro‐encapsulated dyebath produces low water pollution as the effluent is virtually colourless. As a result, the process is also economic and eco‐friendly.     

合成纤维及其混纺纤维用染料的研究 Ⅰ.用于锦纶染色的含β-羟乙基砜硫酸酯基活性分散染料

本文综合了应用于锦纶染色的弱酸性染料酸性浴上色的高竭染率,活性染料与纤维的共价键结合,分散染料在纤维上迁移、匀染、盖染性好等优点,提出一类含β-羟乙基砜硫酸酯基的活性分散染料。用分子较小的分散染料结构,以含β-羟乙基砜硫酸酯为活性基;在弱酸性浴中染色,再在弱碱性浴中与聚酰胺纤维反应成共价键结合。 合成了一系列偶氮型和蒽醌型染料。进行了合成工艺、对锦纶的染色性能以及染色锦纶的牢度等试验。并讨论了染料与聚酰胺纤维的结合 这类染料可用于锦纶66和锦纶6丝纺、弹力锦纶丝和针织品,还可用于桑丝、柞丝及其与人造丝的提花织物。这类染料在锦纶上色泽鲜艳,竭染率较高,益染性优良,耐晒、耐湿处理等牢度较好,适于各种锦纶织物的染色。这类活性分散染料,具有酸性染料、活性染料和分散染料染锦纶的主要特点。     

Dyeing natural fibres in supercritical carbon dioxide using a nonionic surfactant reverse micellar system

A reverse micellar system in supercritical carbon dioxide has been developed as a dyeing medium. Water-soluble dyes such as reactive dyes and acid dyes could be sufficiently solubilised in the interior of a specially constituted reverse micelle. Protein fabrics, silk and wool, were satisfactorily dyed even in deep shades with conventional acid dyes without any special pretreatment. Cotton cellulose fabric was also dyed with conventional reactive dyes when the electrostatic force of repulsion between dye and cotton was eliminated. Compared to previously proposed supercritical dyeing methods, dyeing of fabrics with this system could be performed at low temperatures and pressures in a short time.     

柞蚕丝绸生态染整技术概述

本文介绍了柞蚕丝织物的生态染整加工技术,重点介绍了天然染料染色、数码喷墨印花、壳聚糖及丝素抗皱整理等生态染整技术的性能特点及其在柞蚕丝绸染整中的应用情况,并指出了生态整理技术在柞蚕丝绸行业的发展应用前景。     

Reactive dyeing of silk using commercial acid dyes based on a three‐component Mannich‐type reaction

Acid dyes are employed for commercially dyeing silk, which results in ionic bonds between the silk fibroin and the dye. This generally leads to low wet fastness properties for dyed silk fabrics. In this work, three commercial acid dyes with aromatic primary amine structures were selected to dye silk using a Mannich‐type reaction, resulting in improved wet fastness of dyed silk by forming covalent bonds between silk fibroin and dye. The Mannich‐type reactive dyeing was applied to silk fabrics at both 30 and 90°C in trials. Dyeing at 90°C can shorten the dyeing time compared with dyeing at 30°C, even although dye exhaustion and relative fixation at 90°C were a little lower. The dyeing process was optimised when the dyeing temperature was 90°C, dyebath pH 4, dye‐to‐formaldehyde ratio 1:30 and holding dyeing time 60 minutes. The results showed that the dye exhaustion on silk fabrics for the three aromatic primary amine‐containing acid dyes exceeded 94% and their relative fixation was over 80%. Their washing and rubbing fastness reached grade 4 or higher. Hence, the colour fastness properties of dyed silk fabrics using the Mannich‐type reactive dyeing method is superior to the conventional acid dyeing method using the same aromatic primary amine‐containing acid dyes. The Mannich‐type reactive dyeing for silk fabrics at 90°C can be developed into a novel and rapid reactive dyeing method, promising an effective dyeing process with excellent colour fastness.     

Low–temperature dyeing of real silk fabrics with liquid sulphur dyes

The dyeing of silk fabric with liquid sulphur dyes has been investigated. The results show the dyeings with good exhaustion and colour fastness are theoretically possible. Under weakly alkaline, low–temperature dyeing conditions damage to silk fabric was slight.     

活性染料及其真丝绸印染工艺探讨

研究了活性染料对丝绸进行染色和印花的工艺，提高了丝绸染色产品的色牢度、染深性、得色量和提升力。优选了酸浴法、中性浴法和碱浴法染色工艺条件以及印花工艺条件。指出一氟三嗪活性基优于一氯三嗪活性基，双活性基优于单活性基。国产活性染料应在溶解度、配套助剂、染料筛选等应用方面要加强研究。     

The accelerating effect of a small cationic quaternary ammonium compound and the adsorption kinetics in the dyeing of silk with reactive dyes

In order to develop an eco‐friendly method for silk reactive dyeing that uses a lower accelerant dosage to achieve a higher dye fixation, hexyl dimethyl octyl ammonium chloride was synthesised as an accelerant for the dyeing of silk with reactive dyes. The accelerating effect, corresponding adsorption kinetics, and interaction mechanisms among hexyl dimethyl octyl ammonium chloride, reactive dyes, and silk were investigated. At hexyl dimethyl octyl ammonium chloride concentrations of 10.8–14.4 mm , the dye fixations for three reactive dyes were much higher than those achieved with sodium sulfate, even though the required dosages of hexyl dimethyl octyl ammonium chloride were 30–40 times lower than those of sodium sulfate. The wash fastness, rub fastness, light fastness, K/S, and colour difference values after dyeing with hexyl dimethyl octyl ammonium chloride were similar to those obtained using sodium sulfate, and silk can be dyed uniformly. The adsorption kinetics followed a second‐order kinetic model. The activation energies of surface adsorption for the three reactive dyes were lower than those of sodium sulfate. The high fixation of reactive dyestuffs and the low required dosage of hexyl dimethyl octyl ammonium chloride demonstrate that the use of this new accelerant provides a novel, highly efficient method for silk dyeing. A possible acceleration mechanism of hexyl dimethyl octyl ammonium chloride for reactive dyes adsorbed on the surface of silk was proposed, based on a series of activation parameters of the adsorption process.     

Dyeing and finishing of lyocell union fabrics: an industrial study

Lyocell union fabrics, namely lyocell/silk and lyocell/polyester fabrics, were woven in different fabric constructions and dyed with reactive dyes, acid dyes and a disperse dye. The resulting dyed fabrics were given a resin finishing treatment and their wash fastness was measured. With appropriate dye selection and control of dyeing conditions, some bright solid shades and effective cross‐dyed shades were obtained. The dyed and finished fabrics had a smooth, lustrous handle, ideal for lightweight garments.     

活性艳蓝KN—FB的研制

活性艳蓝KN-FB是一支具有双氧氮蒽(三苯二噁嗪)母体结构的含乙烯砜硫酸酯活性基的活性染料。其发色强度高于蒽醌与偶氮型活性染料,同时对棉、丝绸等基质的浸染染色具有高的固色率,因此,它正在取代蒽醌型活性染料市场。本文主要介绍活性艳蓝KN-FB的产品性能、合成工艺及工业化应用前景。     

Optimal dyeing systems for resistance to the physical strength loss of the PLA/cotton blended fabric

In this study, optimization of disperse/reactive dyeing systems for resistance to the physical strength loss of Poly(lactic acid) (PLA)/cotton blended fabric was investigated. The blended fabric underwent a two‐bath, two‐stage dyeing process in which the PLA component of the blended fabric was dyed using two disperse dyes, followed by the cotton component being dyed with six reactive dyes containing different reactive groups—dichlorotriazine, monochlorotriazine, sulphatoethylsulphone, monofluorotriazine, monochlorotriazine/sulphatoethylsulphone, and monofluorotriazine/sulphatoethylsulphone groups. The optimal dyeing systems were established according to the fixation rate of the dyes, tear/tensile strength loss, and SEM micrographs of the fabric. To avoid the strength loss during the disperse/reactive dyeing process, the recommended disperse dyeing conditions were 110°C, pH 5 for 20 min, whereas the reactive dyeing conditions should be temperature ≤60°C and alkali concentration ≤3 g/L. In this regard, reactive dyes containing monofluorotriazine and monofluorotriazine/sulphatoethylsulphone groups were especially suitable for the reactive dyeing systems. © 2010 Wiley Periodicals, Inc. J Appl Polym Sci, 2011     

降解壳聚糖在棉织物活性染料低盐染色中的应用

采用降解壳聚糖对棉织物进行预处理,比较处理前后棉织物活性染料染色的上染率、固色率及耐摩擦牢度,在此基础上研究低盐工艺对棉织物活性染料染色的上染率、固色率的影响。实验结果表明降解壳聚糖预处理棉织物显著改善活性染料染色性能,提高染料上染率,减少了染整加工过程中对环境造成的污染。降解壳聚糖预处理的最佳工艺条件:浸渍温度80℃、降解壳聚糖用量0.8%(owf)、浸渍时间30 min。     

Reuse of spent dyebath following decolorisation with ozone

Spent reactive dyebaths were decolorised by treatment with ozone and reused in the bleaching, whitening and dyeing of two textile substrates. The study shows that the reuse of a spent dyebath is possible with little modification to the standard processes for dyeing cotton with reactive dyes, provided that the pH of the treated dyebath is adjusted. Moreover, the cycle of decolorisation and reuse was successfully repeated. Renovated reactive dyebaths were also reused for bleaching cotton fabric with hydrogen peroxide, whitening with optical brightener and dyeing polyester fabric with disperse dyes. The whiteness index of bleached and whitened cotton was comparable to that of the same fabric given a control treatment with fresh baths. Likewise, there was a negligible colour difference between polyester dyed using liquor from a spent reactive dyebath and the same fabric dyed in a new bath.     

Fixation of reactive dyes using radio-frequency energy

Radio-frequency (r.f.) energy has been used to increase the fixation rate of reactive dyes on cotton fabric in pad-batch dyeing. A parallel-plate r.f. applicator was used to heat batches of fabric containing reactive dye formulations. The time required for fixation of the dyes was reduced from several hours to a few minutes by heating the fabric in the radio-frequency field. Reactive dyes incorporating three different types of reactive groups, vinylsulphone, nicotinic acid, and mixed vinylsulphone/ monochlorotriazine were studied and found to be applicable using the hot pad-batch method. The colour yield and wash fastness of dyeings with the vinylsulphone/monochlorotriazine bifunctional dyes using r.f.-assisted fixation was equal or superior to those of dyeings performed by conventional cold pad-batch dyeing methods.     

Dyeing of nylon 6 fabric with a bifunctional sulphatoethylsulphone reactive disperse dye

A bifunctional reactive disperse dye containing two temporarily anionic sulphatoethylsulphone groups was synthesised and applied to nylon 6 fabric by exhaust dyeing at a variety of pH levels and temperatures. A monofunctional reactive disperse dye containing one temporarily anionic sulphatoethylsulphone group was also synthesised, and its dyeing behaviour was compared with the bifunctional dye. The bifunctional reactive disperse dye exhibited high exhaustion and total fixation yield under alkaline conditions. The results also indicate that the introduction of two temporarily anionic sulphatoethylsulphone groups of the bifunctional dye gave an enhancement in dyeing performance compared with that of the monofunctional dye. The dyes also showed very good levelling and fastness properties on nylon 6 fabric.     

Extraction of natural dyes from Alpinia blepharocalyx K. Schum. for dyeing of silk fabric

Natural dyes were extracted from the leaves and stems of Alpinia blepharocalyx K. Schum. Analysis of the designed experiment revealed that extraction at a plant/water ratio of 1:20 could reach an optimal production of natural dyes when extraction was performed at 80 °C, for 4 h, under 20 min ultrasound, in the presence of 10 g/l sodium hydroxide, and with two extractions. The extracted natural dyes were applied to the dyeing of silk fabrics using different methods, including or excluding a mordant. It was found that mordants had a significant effect on the colour of dyed silk fabrics. The silk fabric dyed with the pre‐mordant method using potassium aluminium sulphate as a mordant showed a bright yellow with a higher colour strength. The optimal dyeing conditions were reached when the extracted natural dyes were pre‐mordanted with 10 g/l potassium aluminium sulphate at pH 6, and for a 20 min dyeing time.     

Dyeing of nylon 6 fabric with a new bifunctional vinyl sulphone reactive disperse dye

A new bifunctional reactive disperse dye containing a temporarily anionic sulphatoethylsulphone and a nonionic disulphide bis(ethylsulphone) groups was synthesised and applied to nylon 6 fabric by the exhaust dyeing at a variety of pH and temperature conditions. A monofunctional reactive disperse dye containing only nonionic disulphide bis(ethylsulphone) group was also synthesised and its dyeing behaviour was compared with the bifunctional dye. The bifunctional reactive disperse dye exhibited high exhaustion and fixation values at pH 6 and 120 °C. The results also indicate that the combination of temporarily anionic and nonionic reactive groups of the bifunctional dye provided great enhancement in dyeing performance compared to that of the monofunctional dye. The dyes also showed very good levelling and fastness properties on nylon 6 fabric.     

Reactive dyeing systems for wool fibres based on hetero-bifunctional reactive dyes. Part 2: Investigation of dyeing properties during the dyeing cycle

The dyeing behaviour during the dyeing cycle of a Sumifix Supra dye and some other commercial reactive dyes under various dyebath pH conditions was investigated. Studies of the dyeing of wool serge fabric indicated that the diffusion properties of hetero-bifunctional Sumifix Supra dyes generally lie between those of b-sulphatoethylsulphone (Remazol dyes) and monochlorotriazine (Procion H dyes).     

Dyeability improvement of polyester pretreated with some alkoxides

The influence of some alkoxides in alcoholic media, having various dielectric constants, on the physical and mechanical properties was thoroughly studied in a previous work to attain silk‐like polyester fibers. In this investigation, the dyeability behavior of this silk‐like polyester is tried. Both immersion and padding techniques are applied in the treatment. The dyeability of the pretreated polyester fabric with disperse dyes shows some progressive improvements with lowering the dyeing temperature and/or decreasing the time of dyeing attained. Ethoxide is found to be more effective in enhancing the dyeability of polyester fabric than either methoxide or propoxide. Dyeing of the pretreated polyester fabric at the boil without using carriers or conducting high temperature/high pressure dyeing is also possible. Washing and crocking fastness are relatively enhanced. Physicochemical investigations of the dyeing process and a mathematical analysis for evenness are given. A decrease in the half dyeing time and an increase in the rate of dyeing of the pretreated polyester as compared with the untreated one are noticed. © 2007 Wiley Periodicals, Inc. J Appl Polym Sci, 2008     

Synthesis and salt‐free dyeing characteristics of cationic reactive dyes containing polyetheramine segments

A series of cationic reactive dyes containing both quaternary ammonium and polyetheramine as soluble groups and monochlorotriazine as a reactive group have been synthesised and applied to cellulose fibre by salt‐free exhaust dyeing. Investigation of the synthesis method and dyeing properties of these cationic reactive dyes showed that the best pH value for these dyes is 6, and also that these cationic reactive dyes give a high substantivity to cellulose. In the salt‐free dyeing process, their adsorption was consistent with the Langmuir isotherm during the primary exhaustion stage, but in the secondary exhaustion stage the adsorption was in accordance with the Freundlich isotherm, and their secondary exhaustion reached up to 96% and above. Moreover, the degree of fixation, the levelling, and the transfer properties on cotton fabric were good. Light fastness reached grade 5–6, washing, perspiration, and dry rubbing fastness reached grade 4 and above, but wet rubbing fastness reached only grade 3–4.