Relationship between UVA protection and skin response to UV light: proposal for labelling UVA protection

Definition and validation of a most relevant method to assess ultravoilet A (UVA) protection is a major concern for industry, authorities and consumers. However, due to the lack of knowledge about all the biological phenomena involved, the level of UVA protection needed, the ways to assess and label it, remain controversial. In order to overcome this situation, the paper deals with the outcomes of a mathematical model to calculate the distribution between ultravoilet B (UVB) and UVA components of skin responses to UV light. Mathematical calculations of UVB and UVA erythemal components of skin response to sunlight are developed from the well-known determination procedure to calculate the sunburn protection factor (SPF) of sunscreens. The model establishes the relationship between the UVA component of skin erythemal response to overall UV radiation received from sunlight and the ratio SPF/PFAe (erythemal protection factor) where SPF is the product and PFAe is related to the UVA part of the sunlight. Depending on the efficacy profile of sunscreens, the skin erythemal response may be mainly promoted by UVB rays as it normally occurs in unprotected skin or on contrary by UVA rays. Therefore, the efficacy profile of sunscreens defines the deepness where biological events induced by sunlight take place. This new relationship pinpoints the tremendous importance of the protection afforded by sunscreen products in the UVA range when erythema is taken as biological response. By extrapolation of the model to any other biological skin response it becomes possible to predict how to improve the efficiency of sunscreen products in the future. UVA protection afforded by sunscreens should be improved until reaching the same level as the SPF protection factor so that all UV-induced biological responses could be prevented or lowered at the same extend. To enforce this improvement, a proposal to classify sunscreen products in relation with their UVA protection is made.     

Preliminary studies towards utilization of various plant extracts as antisolar agents

The aim of this work was to evaluate several plant extracts with regard to ultraviolet absorption spectra in view of a possible application as antisolar agents. Liquid and dry extracts of Hamamelis virginiana, Matricaria recutita, Aesculus hippocastanum, Rhamnus purshiana and Cinnamomum zeylanicum were prepared by repercolation, maceration and microwave oven extraction. UVB absorption spectra (290–320nm) were obtained and the solar protection factors (SPF) of these preparations were determined by a spectrophotometric method. The results showed that after incorporation to a 2% solution of the synthetic sunscreen octylmethoxycinnamate, the extracts showed an intensification in SPF values, suggesting that this can be an interesting method to intensify SPF. In addition, these extracts can contribute their emollient and moistening properties to the product. These are important characteristics for protecting skin against exposure to the sun.     

Influence of applied quantity, water-immersion and air-drying on covering and microstructure of physical sunscreen films

The features of topically applied suncream films depend on the applied quantities and could be modified by water immersion and air drying. The aim of this study was to investigate the effects of the aforementioned factors on physical sunscreen films and to establish the correlation between the in vitro determined Sun Protection Factor (SPF) and the microstructure of the mineral coating. The assessments were conducted by using UV spectroscopy and electron microscopy on sunscreen films applied on both synthetic membranes and human skin. The results emphasize the paramount role played by the applied quantity to produce a continuous and protecting sunscreen film. The microscopic findings show that water immersion induces mainly a compactness of the sunscreen films, whereas no significant alterations were noted after air drying. Lastly, the SPF values, measured before and after water immersion, disclose the satisfactory water resistance of the broad-spectrum physical sunscreen considered.     

Nature's sunscreen from the Great Barrier Reef, Australia

All shallow-water marine organisms have natural features and behaviours that can reduce exposure to UV radiation and limit the amount of photodamage to functional biomolecules and organelles. Protection from UV radiation often includes the production of UV-absorbing compounds which, in marine organisms, are usually mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs) having a range of absorption maxima between 310 and 360 nm. Shallow-water corals produce large quantities of MAAs and their apparent ability to withstand long-term environmental UV exposure suggests utilization of their UV-absorbing chromophore for sunscreen applications. We present an overview of the biochemical photophysiology of tropical reef-building corals, and of the development of a new class of synthetic sunscreen, 1-alkyl-3-alkanoyl-1,4,5,6-tetrahydropyridines, based on their natural UV protection. Several sunscreen candidates have been examined for sunscreen suitability and a limited selection is being tested for potential use in human skin-care and cosmetic products.     

In vitro and in vivo determinations of sun protection factors of sunscreen lotions with octylmethoxycinnamate

The aim of this work was to evaluate the correlation between in vitro and in vivo determinations of sun protection factors (SPF) of sunscreen lotions containing the synthetic sunscreen octyl methoxycinnamate. Three sunscreen lotions containing either 2, 4.5 or 7.5% octyl methoxycinnamate were prepared. The in vitro SPFs of these sunscreen lotions were determined according to the spectrophotometric method of Mansur et al. The in vivo SPF values were determined according to the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) method. The results indicate that there was a good correlation between the in vitro and in vivo determinations for the sunscreen lotions examined.     

In vitro evaluation of sun protection factors of sunscreen agents using a novel UV spectrophotometric technique

A method for the in vitro determination of low- and high-value sun protection factors (SPF) of sunscreens using artificial substrates and a novel pseudo double beam (PDB) mode of operation of a standard double beam UV spectrophotometer is described. The method allows transmittance to be calculated from detector responses of reference and sample beams measured at different gain levels and facilitates the accurate quantification of low levels of electromagnetic radiation transmitted through highly absorbing samples. The spectrophotometer was modified to hold quartz diffusing plates on which a substrate [Transpore™ adhesive tape or human stratum corneum obtained from a skin surface biopsy (SSB)] and the sunscreens to be tested were applied. The PDB mode of operation increased the effective linear range of the detector response of the spectrophotometer by a factor of approximately 20000-fold, enabling the in vitro SPF determination technique to be applied to both high and low SPF value sunscreens. Eight commercial sunscreens with known SPF values ranging from 4 to 77, previously determined by in vivo methods, were tested in vitro using both test substrates and correlations between the in vivo and in vitro values were determined. SPF values determined using the in vitro method correlated well with the known in vivo results (Transpore™ tape, R ² = 0.611; SSB, R ² = 0.7928). The in vitro SPF obtained for one of the tested products differed substantially from the cited in vivo SPF value. Independent in vitro and in vivo re-evaluation of the SPF of this product matched the value predicted by the present method much more closely than the originally cited in vivo value. All determined SPFs were ordered correctly in comparison to in vivo ranking and the technique appeared to correctly identify a sunscreen that had a labelled SPF value that was significantly higher than its true SPF.     

Comparison of sun protection factors determined by an in vivo and different in vitro methodologies: a study with 58 different commercially available sunscreen products

An extensive study on the sun protection factors (SPF) of sun care products was carried out using the COLIPA (The European Cosmetic Toiletry and Perfumery Association) method, which relates to in vivo experiments. Furthermore, in vitro methods were tested with sunscreen formulations that were prepared as films on surface-roughened plates of polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA). One of the in vitro methods, i.e. using the sunscreen tester, has been recently developed, whereas the second has been defined by a pure spectroscopic approach, which is based on spectral transmission measurements of sunscreen films. Altogether 58 different sunscreen formulations, with manufacturer declared SPF values ranging from 4 to 60 and currently available on the European market, were investigated. The quality of correlations with results from the individual products based on the different in vitro methods versus the COLIPA values that were considered as generally accepted standard values was assessed. In this context, also variations because of sample preparation and spectral measurement were discussed. For sunscreen products with in vivo SPF values larger 25, the spectral transmittance within the UVA/UVB range is rapidly decreasing, which is experienced even for products with reduced amounts reaching 0.5 mg cm(-2) and still leading to unsatisfactory correlation of the spectroscopically derived SPF values versus the results from the alternative assays. Opposite to these small amounts, a sunscreen product spread of 2 mg cm(-2) is standard for the in vivo COLIPA method, whereas an area-normalized amount of 1 mg cm(-2) is currently routinely used for the sunscreen tester method. Furthermore, an overview of the individual product characteristics, such as their specific critical wavelengths and their UVA/UVB ratios is provided; both parameters can also be calculated from the spectral absorbances of the standardized sunscreen films.     

Validation of a new in vitro Sun Protection Factor method to include a wide range of sunscreen product emulsion types

In 2017, Cosmetics Europe performed a double-blinded ring test of 24 emulsion-type sunscreen products, across 3 in vivo test laboratories and 3 in vitro test laboratories, using a new candidate in vitro SPF test method. Based on the results of this work, an article was published showing how data derived from a new lead candidate method conform to new International Standards (ISO) acceptance criteria for alternative SPF test methods (Any alternative method should consider the matrix effect and if required, specify the matrix applicability of the method; Criterion 1a: Systematic differences between methods should be negligible: 95% of all individual results of an alternative method are within the range of ±2× reproducibility standard deviation of the in vivo method, that is overall bias must be below 0.5× reproducibility standard deviation of the in vivo method; Criterion 1b: Measurement uncertainty of an alternative method should be below the measurement uncertainty of the in vivo method. Candidate method predicted values must fall within the full ‘funnel’ (SPF 6-50+) limits proposed by Cosmetics Europe (derived from the same minimum test design, that is using the ISO24444 Method to measure at least 24 products across at least 3 laboratories using at least 5 test subjects/laboratory, in a blinded fashion).). Of the 24 sunscreen products tested, the majority of emulsions were of the oil-in-water (O/W) type, whereas only one was water-in-oil (W/O) and there were no products with a mineral-only sun filter system. In order to confirm the scope of this method, therefore, a new study was conducted that included 73 W/O (12 mineral + organic, 44 mineral only and 17 organic only) and 3 O/W mineral-only, emulsion-type sunscreen products (a total of 76 new sunscreen products). When combined with the previous 24 products (tested in 3 different laboratories), this yielded a new data set comprising a total of 100 emulsion-type sunscreen products, with SPF values ranging from 6 to 50+ (with a total of 148 data points). These products were tested using the double-plate in vitro SPF test method and compared with the ISO TC217/WG7 acceptance criteria for alternative SPF test methods. Over 95% of paired in vitro: in vivo SPF values lay within the upper and lower limits of the ISO acceptance criteria funnel, with no bias. This new in vitro SPF test method, therefore, meets the minimum requirements for an alternative SPF test method to ISO24444:2010, for emulsion-type sunscreen products (which make up the majority of marketed sunscreen products).     

New data on skin photoprotection

Absorbed ultraviolet (UV) radiation is responsible for photochemical degradation of the skin. Erythema is the most apparent result of the sunburn reaction, but the most serious results are photoaging and photocarcinogenesis, largely mediated by reactive oxygen species (ROS). To prevent these light-induced reactions, effective protection against both UVB and UVA radiations are essential. The aim of this study was to evaluate the protective efficacy against both UVB and UVA rays of three sunscreen preparations (two creams and one lotion), evaluating also their water resistance. For this purpose SPF (Sun Protection Factor) and UVA protection were tested, respectively, on 40 and 20 pre-selected volunteers (male and female, < 22-years-old with skin types I, II and III) by the Colipa test method and the Mark et al. methodology. A wash-off test was also conducted to determine the resistance to water. Results obtained showed that the three formulations studied underline interesting SPF values from about 20-30 with an excellent correlation between visual and colorimetric results obtained (P < 0.05). The controlled decrease in effectiveness of only 20% after 10 min washing proved that the vehicle is also an important factor in determining the protective efficacy. From the obtained data, the studied formulations seem to have an high SPF and UVA protection efficacy together with a good water resistance. According to several other studies, it is possible to confirm therefore that the regular use of these sunscreens may certainly reduce the harmful effect caused by long-term exposure to UVB and UVA radiation.     

Contact angle measurement - a reliable supportive method for screening water-resistance of ultraviolet-protecting products in vivo

Substantivity of sunscreen formulations is affected by the wash-out rate of ultraviolet-absorber and -reflector compounds in water. Water-resistance of sunscreen formulations is currently determined according to a standardized European Cosmetic Toiletry and Perfumery Association (COLIPA) protocol, encompassing the determination of a minimal erythemal dose before and after a defined immersion step in water. It can be supposed that the higher the wettability of a treated skin area, the higher is the wash-out rate of sunscreen compounds. This present report addresses the validity of determining the wettability of treated skin alone as a measure for the water-resistance of sunscreen products. The report addresses the robustness, accuracy and congruence of a recently developed wettability test, based on the measurement of the contact angle (CA) of a sessile water drop on treated skin areas. Contact angle data of 66 sunscreen formulations are compared with the corresponding results of 81 water-resistance tests, using the sun protection factor (SPF)/immersion/SPF method. Sunscreen products tested by the CA method were applied to the skin of the volar forearm of test subjects at a defined dose and drying-time, using a standardized application and recording device. Contact angles between a sessile water drop and skin were recorded by a Charge-Coupled Device (CCD) camera and subjected to automatic contour analysis. Taking the SPF/immersion/SPF method as gold standard, accuracy parameters of the CA method were determined. By using an appropriate cut-off level of CAs, the CA method has a specificity and positive-predictive value of 100%, and turns out to be a reliable screening method to identify water-resistant formulations. Based on our findings, those formulations that give CAs above 30 degrees may be categorized water-proof without further testing by the COLIPA water-resistance method.     

天然植物油在防晒化妆品中的功效研究进展

随着人们对防晒认知的提高,防晒化妆品的需求不断增加,市场发展迅速。天然植物油基化妆品绿色环保,使用安全,深受消费者青睐。我国植物资源丰富,部分植物油除不饱和脂肪酸外,还含有黄酮类、类胡萝卜素、维生素E等多种功能性化合物,具有抗氧化和防紫外线的作用。介绍了我国几种天然植物油(山茶油、牡丹籽油、橄榄油、辣木籽油、杏仁油、椰子油、乳木果油、猕猴桃籽油、酪梨油、葡萄籽油和紫苏籽油)抗氧化和防紫外线的功效及在防晒化妆品中的应用,以期为开发清爽高SPF值防晒化妆品提供参考。     

Determination of sun protection factors. Correlation between in vivo human studies and an in vitro skin cast method

Sun protection factors were determined by both an in vitro method which used resin casts taken from replicas of human skin and by an in vivo SPF method. Thirty-eight product development samples were tested for the level of sun protection using both methods and the results were compared. The values obtained showed a positive relationship which was closely approximated by a log-linear regression of in vivo data on in vitro data (regression coefficient, r² = 0.86).
It is concluded that the cast technique is quick, convenient, inexpensive and in its present form useful for screening sunscreen products prior to in vivo SPF testing.     

Beyond sun protection factor testing

Ultraviolet radiation in sunlight produces a range of acute and chronic adverse effects on the skin including sunburn, photosensitivity rashes, immunosuppression, photoageing and carcinogenesis. Sunscreens aim to provide protection, but standard testing procedures primarily involve assessment of ability to protect against acute erythema, as evidenced by the sun protection factor (SPF). The SPF may correlate poorly with other aspects of protection, particularly since ultraviolet A is weakly erythemogenic compared with ultraviolet B, yet may make a greater contribution to certain other skin effects of sunlight. Nevertheless, there is an increasing tendency for the sunscreen industry to make claims for their products beyond the SPF data. There is a need to develop systems for clinical testing of sunscreens against other endpoints caused by ultraviolet exposure of skin, including immunosuppression and photosensitivity rashes. In particular, there is a largely unrecognized need for testing of sunscreens against the condition known as polymorphic light eruption, a photosensitivity disorder estimated to affect a staggering 10-20% of the population in the northern hemisphere. Ultimately, protection of the skin by sunscreens can only be as effective as their adequacy of application to the skin surface in the everyday setting permits. Optimal sunscreen formulation, and public and patient education in appropriate application technique, both make vital contributions to efficacy of sunscreen protection. This article focuses on the need for extended clinical testing of sunscreens, with particular reference to the photosensitivity disorders, and for improvements in sunscreen formulation and in the adequacy of sunscreen application to the skin surface.     

J. Cosmet. Sci., 59, 385–398 (September/October 2008)Evaluation of liposomal and conventional formulations of octyl methoxycinnamate on human percutaneous absorption using the stripping method

The objective of this study was to determine the influence of vehicles on the penetration of octyl methoxycinnamate (OMC), as a UV absorber, to the stratum corneum by the stripping method. The experimental formulations consisted of a conventional o/w emulsion and multilamellar and small unilamellar liposomes (MLVs and SUVs) containing OMC. MLVs containing OMC were prepared by the fusion method and then converted to SUVs by probe sonication. Various formulations were then applied onto the midvolar forearms of six volunteers at a dose of 2 mg cm^-2. After determined timepoints, the stripping method was conducted whereby 22 tape strips were applied and subsequently divided into different stripping groups. The sunscreen agent was assessed by HPLC while the SPF (sun protection factor) of the formulations was determined in human volunteers in accordance with the Australian standard. Overall the results indicate that skin accumulation of OMC in MLVs was significantly greater than in the o/w emulsion and SUVs. Furthermore, SUV's penetration into the deeper skin layers was significantly greater than MLV's and that of a conventional o/w emulsion. Also, higher amounts of OMC were recovered from the upper layers of the stratum corneum than from the deeper layers in all the formulations tested. Finally, the SPF of the liposomes containing OMC was slightly greater than that of the control lotions at a similar concentration of OMC. In conclusion, the result of this study indicates that an MLV prepared by the fusion method could be a better vehicle for OMC as a sunscreen since it has a slightly better SPF compared to a conventional formulation and more remains in the stratum corneum, reducing its penetration to the deeper layers.
Address all correspondence to M. R. Jaafari.     

海参内脏酶解物和体壁溶出物的护肤功效评价

该研究以海参加工副产物为试验材料,将海参体壁酶解物作为对照,分别考察了海参内脏酶解物和体壁溶出物的保湿、防晒、抗氧化、美白及抗衰老功能,旨在对海参加工副产物的护肤功效进行评价。试验数据表明,内脏酶解物和体壁溶出物在保湿、防晒、抗氧化、抗衰老功能上优于体壁酶解物。其中内脏酶解物的吸湿保湿、抗衰老功能综合评价最佳：在81% RH的12 h吸湿率和保湿率分别为52.51%和95.04%,弹性蛋白酶抑制率达到26.34%;体壁溶出物在防晒、抗氧化功能上表现最佳：在UVC和UVB波段的紫外吸收率分别为94.52%和33.89%,DPPH自由基清除率的IC50为3.00 mg/mL,ABTS与FRAP法总抗氧化能力分别为4.48 mmol/g和5.91 mmol/g。美白功能方面,体壁溶出物及内脏酶解物对酪氨酸酶活性抑制率的IC50分别为49.43 mg/mL和40.00 mg/mL,美白功能低于体壁酶解物（IC50=16.82 mg/mL）,但也能发挥很好的美白作用。在应用中,可以有效利用两种副产物在护肤功效上的作用优势,将二者联合应用或者作为体壁酶解物的补充应用在护肤品上,实现海参加工副产物的高效开发利用。     

Reconstructed human epidermis as an efficient tool in the evaluation of the effects of UV irradiation and of the photoprotective capacities of a sunblock

In this study, we used a spectroscopic method, found effective in measuring sunscreen photo-degradation results in terms of a photoabsorption decrease. The traditional approach was to measure variations in well-known parameters such as the absolute in vitro sun protection factor (SPF) or the relative UVA/UVB ratio after a controlled dose of UV radiation. However, these parameters fail to fully reflect the product's photochemical behavior. Variation in the SPF mainly depicts changes in UVB filtration, and variation in the relative parameter UVA/UVB ratio can be subjected to misinterpretation, as is the case for products in which a parallel loss of photoabsorption is observed in the UVA and UVB regions. In our laboratory, we developed a new approach using pure spectroscopic UVA and UVB attenuation factors called UVA attenuation factor and UVB attenuation factor. Attenuation factors are defined here as the inverse of the arithmetic mean of the transmittance data, taken either from the UVB region (290–320 nm, 1 nm steps) or the UVA region (320–400 nm, 1 nm steps). Using these two new spectroscopic indices, the photochemical behavior of a sunscreen formula can be assessed in each UV region. The general procedure consists of applying two UV doses to a film of sunscreen previously spread on a roughened polymethylmethacrylate plate and then measuring the UV transmission versus wavelength before and after the irradiation process. We tested different UV filters in a cosmetic base to demonstrate the efficacy of the method.     

Evaluation of skin cancer chemoprevention potential of sunscreen agents using the Epstein–Barr virus early antigen activation in vitro assay

In our continuing search for novel cancer chemopreventive compounds of natural and synthetic origin, we have evaluated 14 commonly used ultraviolet (UV) sunscreen agents (designated UV‐1 to UV‐14) for their skin cancer chemoprevention potential. They belong to 8 different chemical categories: aminobenzoate (UV‐5, UV‐7, UV‐8 and UV‐14), benzophenone (UV‐1, UV‐2, UV‐3 and UV‐13), benzotriazole (UV‐10), benzyloxyphenol (UV‐9), cinnamate (UV‐6), quinolone (UV‐4), salicylate (UV‐11) and xanthone (UV‐12). In the in vitro assay employed, the sunscreens were assessed by their inhibition of the Epstein–Barr virus early antigen (EBV‐EA) activation induced by the tumour promoter 12‐O‐tetradecanoylphorbol‐13‐acetate (TPA) in human lymphoblastoid Raji cells. All sunscreens tested were found to exhibit anti‐tumour promoting activity: listed in decreasing order, moderate (UV‐11, UV‐2, UV‐7, UV‐12, UV‐3, UV‐9 and UV‐14) to weak (UV‐1, UV‐6, UV‐8, UV‐16, UV‐5, UV‐4 and UV‐10) with octyl salicylate (UV‐11) as the most potent and drometrizole (UV‐10) as the least potent among the compounds evaluated. A plausible relationship between the antioxidant property of sunscreens and their ability to promote anti‐tumour activity was noted. The results call for a comprehensive analysis of skin cancer chemoprevention potential of currently used UV sunscreen agents around the globe to identify those with the best clinical profile.     

An in vitro evaluation of various Rosa damascena flower extracts as a natural antisolar agent

The aim of this work was to evaluate ultraviolet (UV) absorption ability of various extracts of Rosa damascena flowers as an antisolar agent. Extracts were prepared using the following solvent mixtures: water:ethanol (50 : 50), ethyl acetate:ethanol (80 : 20) and ether. The hydroalcoholic and ethyl acetate:ethanol extracts were prepared by maceration, and ether extract was prepared by soxhletion. Preliminary studies on the extracts prepared confirmed the presence of flavonoids as the major components of all extracts. Next, the UV absorption spectra (in the range of 200-400 nm) of all extracts were obtained. Results show that all three extracts can effectively absorb UV radiation in the range of 200-400 nm. However, the range giving maximum absorption for the hydroalcoholic, ethyl acetate:ethanol and ether extracts were 200-320, 250-360 and 230-370 nm, respectively. In the next stage, extracts prepared were incorporated into an oil in water cream base (prepared based on preliminary studies), at two concentrations of 5 and 8%. The sun protection factor (SPF) of these creams were determined. Based on the findings, the hydroalcoholic extract seems to give the highest SPF among the three extracts evaluated, when incorporated to the cream base. On the other hand, by performing a few physicochemical tests on the prepared creams, cream containing 5% ether extract showed the most desirable appearance and stability among the creams investigated. The UV absorption ability of these extracts is suggested to be because of the presence of flavonoid compounds within the extracts. However, it should be noted that in order to obtain an effective suncare product with high SPF values, these extracts could be used along with other synthetic antisolar agents.     

Modification of shikonin with reactive UV-absorbent and its dyeing and functional properties for silk北大核心CSCD

为提高天然染料染色织物的功能性并实现同浴染整,文章采用水溶性、反应性抗紫外剂改性的紫草素和未改性紫草素对蚕丝织物进行染色,研究了染浴pH值对织物染色性能及抗紫外性能的影响,探究了部分织物的抗菌性能。结果表明,紫草素及改性紫草素染色织物的色深值和颜色特征值受染浴pH值影响,染色织物均呈现一系列由紫红色至蓝紫色色光。当染浴pH值为9.0时,改性前、后紫草素染色织物的K/S值均较高,改性紫草素染色织物的耐皂洗色牢度和耐摩擦色牢度不低于改性前,抗紫外性能和抗菌性能均高于改性前。     

Comparative evaluation of different substrates for the in vitro determination of sunscreen photostability: spectrophotometric and HPLC analyses

Polymethylmethacrylate (PMMA) plates and Transpore^TM tapes were compared as substrates for the in vitro evaluation of photostability of commercial sunscreen products. The sun care preparations were applied respectively on Transpore^TM tapes and PMMA plates and their sun protection factors (SPF) and UVA protection parameters [UVA/UVB ratio, critical wavelength, UVA protection factor (UVA‐PF)] were measured by transmission spectroscopy, before and after irradiation with simulated sunlight. No significant differences were observed in the UV protection parameters measured on Transpore^TM tapes or PMMA plates, before exposure to the solar simulator. Conversely, after irradiation, the SPF values of the sun care products exhibited marked variations between the two substrates, the decrease in SPF being greater on PMMA plates (31.3–63.1%) than on Transpore^TM tapes (10.4–23.8%). Differences between the two substrates were detected also for the UVA protection parameters, although they were significant only for the UVA‐PF. The tested samples were assayed also by high‐performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) to assess the extent of photodegradation of the UV filters present in the examined formulations. The results showed that for the PMMA plates, the light‐induced decrease in SPF, as determined by spectrophotometry, fitted well with the percentage loss of ethyl hexyl methoxycinnamate (the only photounstable UVB filter present) measured by HPLC. Moreover, for the PMMA substrate, the UVA‐PF percentage reduction was consistent with the percentage degradation of butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (the only photounstable UVA filter present) determined by HPLC. On the other hand, poor correlation between spectrophotometric and HPLC analyses was observed on Transpore^TM tapes. Therefore, PMMA plates are more reliable than Transpore^TM tapes as substrates for in vitro photodegradation tests of sunscreen products by transmission spectroscopy.