天然植物油在防晒化妆品中的功效研究进展

随着人们对防晒认知的提高,防晒化妆品的需求不断增加,市场发展迅速。天然植物油基化妆品绿色环保,使用安全,深受消费者青睐。我国植物资源丰富,部分植物油除不饱和脂肪酸外,还含有黄酮类、类胡萝卜素、维生素E等多种功能性化合物,具有抗氧化和防紫外线的作用。介绍了我国几种天然植物油(山茶油、牡丹籽油、橄榄油、辣木籽油、杏仁油、椰子油、乳木果油、猕猴桃籽油、酪梨油、葡萄籽油和紫苏籽油)抗氧化和防紫外线的功效及在防晒化妆品中的应用,以期为开发清爽高SPF值防晒化妆品提供参考。     

中药对益生茵生长的影响

选取小茴香、莲子等11种常见的中药药材,经过特定的方法煎提得剑的药液作为培养基来培养LA、LB和IST,同时以MRS、M17液体培养基作为对照。结果表明,小茴香对3株乳酸菌都有较好的生长促进作用,菌体不但能够保持较高的活性而且形态较好。最终,培养液VILLA、LB~IST的活菌数可分别达到2．49×10^9cfu／mL、1．8×10^7cfu／mL、3．24x10^8cfu／mL。     

Latex as a sunscreen carrier in a silicone vehicle

This work comprises a study of the adsorption-desorption of three chemical sunscreens on the polymer surface of the latex Aquacoat, which has a high specific surface. The aim was to delay the release of these filters from the silicone excipient containing them and therefore increasing the substantivity, i.e. prolonging the sunscreening effect.     

基于药食两用食物研制功能性主食馒头的可行性分析

从功能性主食馒头的开发思路、技术攻关必要性、技术要点等,结合功能性主食馒头开发的市场需求、相关领域国内外技术现状、发展趋势等多个方面,探讨开发添加药食两用原料制作功能性主食馒头的可行性与研究价值。     

六种中药水提物体外抗氧化活性研究

从羟自由基清除率、还原力、抑制脂质过氧化能力和清除DPPH自由基等四个方面研究了旱莲草、积雪草、莱菔子、马齿苋、女贞子、枇杷核等六味中药水提物的体外抗氧化作用。结果显示,在羟自由基清除率方面,从强到弱清除能力依次是马齿苋、积雪草、旱莲草、枇杷核、女贞子和莱菔子。在还原力方面,六味中药从强至弱顺序依次是积雪草、马齿苋、旱莲草、枇杷核、女贞子和莱菔子。在抑制脂质过氧化方面,抗氧化能力从强到弱依次是马齿苋、女贞子、莱菔子、枇杷核、积雪草和旱莲草。在DPPH自由基方面,其清除能力从大到小依次是积雪草、马齿苋、枇杷核、旱莲草、女贞子和莱菔子。结论表明,六味中药的水提物均具有一定的体外抗氧化活性。     

Molecular detection and identification of Rickettsia in psocids collected from herbs

The aims of this study were to assess the psocids that potentially carry Rickettsia and to characterize Rickettsia species. We collected booklice from dried fragments of Chinese medicinal herbs for retail. Species identification and Rickettsia detection were performed by using nondestructive DNA extraction method and PCR. Of the 224 booklice samples collected, the following species were identified: Liposcelis pearmani (50.89%), L. bostrychophila (25.89%) and L. entomophila (23.21%). Twenty-four samples were found to be positive for Rickettsia (10.71%, 24/224), and the number of Rickettsia-positive samples per species was as follows: L. pearmani (n = 10), L. bostrychophila (n = 8) and L. entomophila (n = 6). The phylogenetic tree revealed that the rickettsial agents found in booklice cluster along with Rickettsia felis belong to the spotted fever group (SFG). Mixed booklice contamination occurs in herbal fragments. The presence of Rickettsia-infected booklice suggests that there is a risk of louse-borne rickettsioses to humans in contact with herbs. These findings can contribute to the development of a disease control program that assists relevant practitioners and promotes public health.     

P-aminobenzoic acid as a sunscreen and its behaviour on the skin

PABA (p-aminobenzoic acid), a highly regarded sunscreening agent, has recently been shown to exhibit different absorption characteristics when applied to excised hairless mouse epidermis than when in dilute alcoholic solution. In the present study the cause of the differences was investigated.
The results show that at normal application amounts, considerable quantities of randomly dispersed PABA micro-crystals exist on the skin surface. The forward scattering spectrum of PABA on skin resembled more closely that of micro-crystalline aggregates than that of PABA in solution.     

Occurrence of enniatins and beauvericin in 60 Chinese medicinal herbs

A total of 60 Chinese medicinal herbs were examined for contamination of the emerging Fusarium mycotoxins enniatins (ENNs) A, A1, B, B1 and beauvericin (BEA). The herbs under study are commonly used in China as both medicines and food. The dried samples of herbs were randomly collected from traditional Chinese medicine stores in Zhejiang province, China. Sample preparation was achieved by methanol extraction, followed by a simple membrane filtration step; no tedious clean-ups were involved. ENNs A, A1, B, B1 and BEA were analysed by the recently developed stable isotope dilution assays, using liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry (LC-MS/MS). With limits of detection ranging between 0.8 and 1.2 µg kg^–1 for the analytes under study, 25% of all analysed samples were contaminated with at least one of the ENNs and BEA. BEA was the most frequently detected toxin with a 20% incidence in all samples. The percentages of ENN-positive samples were lower: each single ENN was detected in 6.7–11.7% of all samples. Considering the total amounts of the five mycotoxins in single samples, values between 2.5 and 751 µg kg^–1 were found. The mean total amount in positive samples was 126 µg kg^–1. Regarding ginger, the frequent occurrence of ENNs and BEA in dried ginger could be confirmed in samples from Germany. However, in fresh ginger root the toxins were not detectable. This is the first report on the presence of ENNs and BEA in Chinese medicinal herbs.     

Transparent formulations of a liposoluble sunscreen agent in an aqueous medium

Transparent formulations of a liposoluble sunscreen in an aqueous medium were studied, taking into account the different chemicals of a selected system situated in the vertices of a regular tetrahedron: sunscreen agent, co-solvent, (surfactants ± mineral oil) mixture (in the tetrahedron base) and water as the fourth component. Several compositions were selected at optimized component ratios after which water was added progressively. Clear gel and liquid compositions were obtained yielding a sunscreen agent that it suitable for conventional use. The physico-chemical properties of some compositions were assessed in terms of water/sunscreen agent content.     

绿色木霉Sn-9106固态发酵中药残渣产纤维素酶研究

对绿色木霉Sn-9106固态发酵中药残渣产纤维素酶的可行性进行了研究.以滤纸酶为纤维素酶活性指标,麸皮、蛋白胨、KH2PO4添加量为影响因子,先采取单因素实验确定3种影响因子的最佳浓度,然后通过相应面法(RSM)优化产酶最佳条件.结果表明,当最大酶活力为12.3 IU/g时所需固体发酵基质中麸皮、蛋白胨及KH2PO4的浓度分别为19.80g/L、2.06g/L、2.90g/L,与优化前培养基相比,纤维素酶产量提高了近3倍.     

抗果蔬致腐真菌中草药的筛选及有效成分的分析

研究了陈皮、肉桂、丁香、五倍子、艾叶、辛夷、姜黄、川芎、虎仗和蜂胶10种中草药提取物对果蔬致腐真菌扩展青霉和黑曲霉的抑制作用。结果表明：中草药丁香提取物具有较强的抗菌活性，对扩展青霉和黑曲霉的MIC分别为25％和50％；通过GC-MS从丁香挥发油中分离分析出14种化合物，其中丁香酚的相对含量最高，达68％；抑菌试验表明，丁香挥发油MIC中丁香酚的浓度高于丁香酚的MIC。     

Accurate determination of lead in Chinese herbs using isotope dilution inductively coupled plasma mass spectrometry (ID-ICP-MS)

A method for the determination of Pb in Chinese herbs based on “approximate matching” isotope dilution inductively coupled plasma mass spectrometry was developed. The method was validated using NIST SRM 1547 (Peach Leaves). Satisfactory analytical figures of merit were achieved, including good sample recovery (∼99%) and low relative expanded uncertainty (less than ±2%). The validated method was applied to the analysis of a herbal sample for the international comparison CCQM-P97. Measurement uncertainty was evaluated according to three approaches, namely Kragten’s spreadsheet approach, GUM Workbench and Monte Carlo method (MCM). A practical way was established for the evaluation of measurement uncertainty based on the propagation of distributions using MCM. The validated method was also employed for the provision of SI-traceable mass fraction of Pb in an in-house herbal reference material and the assignment of a reference value to a proficiency testing programme.     

Correlation of spectrophotometric data with sunscreen protection factors

Sunscreen protection factors, obtained for dilute solutions contained in 2 cm quartz cells placed between a human subject and the Xenon Are sun simulator lamp, are able to be correlated with spectrophotometric data. The correlation, interpreted in terms of the mechanism of sunscreen protection, successfully predicts that an opacifier which is active only in the UV-A spectral region, though ineffective as a sunscreen by itself, would significantly enhance the protective ability of an opacifier which is active mainly in the UV-B spectral region, and that complete erythemal prevention requires opacification to both the UV-B and UV-A regions. This correlation is reached by measuring the total area under the spectral curve in the UV-A and UV-B regions as predicted by a new form of Beer's law, for polychromatic radiation, which is derived. The procedure is shown to be a simple approach to predicting the efficacy of various sunscreen agents which do not exhibit fluorescence.     

Evaluation of skin cancer chemoprevention potential of sunscreen agents using the Epstein–Barr virus early antigen activation in vitro assay

In our continuing search for novel cancer chemopreventive compounds of natural and synthetic origin, we have evaluated 14 commonly used ultraviolet (UV) sunscreen agents (designated UV‐1 to UV‐14) for their skin cancer chemoprevention potential. They belong to 8 different chemical categories: aminobenzoate (UV‐5, UV‐7, UV‐8 and UV‐14), benzophenone (UV‐1, UV‐2, UV‐3 and UV‐13), benzotriazole (UV‐10), benzyloxyphenol (UV‐9), cinnamate (UV‐6), quinolone (UV‐4), salicylate (UV‐11) and xanthone (UV‐12). In the in vitro assay employed, the sunscreens were assessed by their inhibition of the Epstein–Barr virus early antigen (EBV‐EA) activation induced by the tumour promoter 12‐O‐tetradecanoylphorbol‐13‐acetate (TPA) in human lymphoblastoid Raji cells. All sunscreens tested were found to exhibit anti‐tumour promoting activity: listed in decreasing order, moderate (UV‐11, UV‐2, UV‐7, UV‐12, UV‐3, UV‐9 and UV‐14) to weak (UV‐1, UV‐6, UV‐8, UV‐16, UV‐5, UV‐4 and UV‐10) with octyl salicylate (UV‐11) as the most potent and drometrizole (UV‐10) as the least potent among the compounds evaluated. A plausible relationship between the antioxidant property of sunscreens and their ability to promote anti‐tumour activity was noted. The results call for a comprehensive analysis of skin cancer chemoprevention potential of currently used UV sunscreen agents around the globe to identify those with the best clinical profile.     

Glyceridic esters of p-methoxycinnamic acid. A new sunscreen of the cinnamate class

Synopsis
The aim of this work was to investigate whether a 1,3-diacylglycerol moiety can act as enhancer of the photoprotecting action of a new sunscreen of the cinnamate class, owing to its affinity with skin constituents and lower susceptibility to hydrolysis at C-2. The sun protection factors (SPF) for 1,2,3-propanetriol 1,3-dipalmitate-2- p -methoxycinnamate and 1,2,3-propanetriol 1,3-dioctanoate-2- p -methoxy-cinnamate (2.0, 4.5 and 7.5%) were determined. The sunscreen preparations presented SPF values between 4.7 and 16. The results show that although glyceridic esters present higher lipophilicity and are more stable towards enzymatic hydrolysis in vitro , the synthesized triacylglycerols and the standard sunscreen 2-ethylhexyl p -methoxycinnamoyl (EHPM) showed equivalent SPF values for both methods.
Résumé
L'objectif de ce travail a été l'évaluation du groupe 1,3-diacylglycérol en tant qu'un agent d'intensification de la propriété photoprotectrice d'un nouveau filtre solaire de la classe cinnamate, en considérant l'affinité de cet groupe avec les matériels constitutifs de la peau et leur stabilité vis-à-vis l'hydrolyse enzymatique sur la position C-2. Les facteurs de protection solaire (FPS) des produits 1,2,3-propanetriol 1,3-dipalmitate-2-ρ-methoxy-cinnamate et 1,2,3-propanetriol 1,3-dioctanoate-2-ρ-methoxy-cinnamate ont étéévalués (2.0, 4.5 et 7.5)., Selon la concentration des produits, les préparations ont les valeurs de FPS entre 4.7 et 16. Les produits synthétisés ont les FPS équivalents au filtre solaire utilisé comme référence ( ρ -methoxy-cinnamate 2-ethylhexyl). Néanmoins, ils ont une plus important lipophilie et une plus grande stabilité vis-à-vis l'hydrolyse enzymatique in vitro.     

Electroanalytical determination of the sunscreen agent octocrylene in cosmetic products

An electroanalytical method was developed to detect and quantify the sunscreen agent octocrylene (OCR) in cosmetic products. The method was based on electrochemical reduction, using voltammetric techniques. OCR was reduced at -0.97 V vs. Ag/AgCl on a glassy carbon electrode using a mixture of Britton-Robinson buffer (0.04 mol L(-1)) and ethanol (7 : 3, v/v) as the supporting electrolyte solution. Under optimized conditions and square-wave voltammetry, OCR response was linear from 5.0 × 10(-6) to 8.0 × 10(-5) mol L(-1) (r = 0.9995), with a limit of detection of 2.8 × 10(-6) mol L(-1). The proposed electroanalytical method proved simple, fast and suitable for detection and quantification of OCR in samples of cosmetic products, with satisfactory results in the recovery test and analytical determination in real samples.     

中草药提取液保鲜贡梨的研究

用黄芩提取液(SBG)和3种中药提取物的混合液(KSJ)(黄芩、苦参、半支莲提取物质量比1∶1∶1)研究中药提取液保鲜贡梨的效果。实验结果表明:2种保鲜剂不同程度的对贡梨的水分损失、V_C氧化、糖酸的降低有抑制作用,尤其是提取液混合物(KSJ)更为明显。     

Nature's sunscreen from the Great Barrier Reef, Australia

All shallow-water marine organisms have natural features and behaviours that can reduce exposure to UV radiation and limit the amount of photodamage to functional biomolecules and organelles. Protection from UV radiation often includes the production of UV-absorbing compounds which, in marine organisms, are usually mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs) having a range of absorption maxima between 310 and 360 nm. Shallow-water corals produce large quantities of MAAs and their apparent ability to withstand long-term environmental UV exposure suggests utilization of their UV-absorbing chromophore for sunscreen applications. We present an overview of the biochemical photophysiology of tropical reef-building corals, and of the development of a new class of synthetic sunscreen, 1-alkyl-3-alkanoyl-1,4,5,6-tetrahydropyridines, based on their natural UV protection. Several sunscreen candidates have been examined for sunscreen suitability and a limited selection is being tested for potential use in human skin-care and cosmetic products.     

The COLIPA in vitro UVA method: a standard and reproducible measure of sunscreen UVA protection

There is a continuing need to measure and communicate reliably the UVA protection offered by commercial sunscreens. To that end, the COLIPA (European Cosmetics Trade Association) ' In Vitro Sun Protection Methods' group has developed a new in vitro method for measuring UVA protection in a standardized, reproducible manner. The method is based on in vitro UV substrate spectrophotometry and convolution of resulting absorbance data with the action spectrum for the in vivo Persistent Pigment Darkening (PPD) endpoint to provide an in vitro UVA protection factor (UVAPF) which is correlated with an in vivo measure. This method has been published as a COLIPA guideline, used currently in European geographies for testing and labelling sunscreen products.
This article summarizes two 'ring' studies, involving eight separate testing laboratories, which both defined critical parameters for the method and validated it. In Ring Study 1, eight laboratories tested the in vitro UV transmission of a total of 24 sunscreens and, from the data, a unit dose of UVA ( D ₀ of 1.2 J cm⁻²) was defined to provide a single irradiation step which, by taking into account potential sunscreen photo-instability, gave the closest agreement with in vivo UVAPF values. In Ring Study 2, eight laboratories tested the in vitro UV transmission of a total of 13 sunscreens using this single irradiation step and established a very good correlation ( r ² = 0.83; slope = 0.84, P  < 0.0001) between resulting in vitro UVAPF values and corresponding values derived from the in vivo PPD method. This new method, therefore, can be used to provide a reliable in vitro metric to describe and label UVA efficacy in sunscreen products, in line with the EU Commission recommendation 2006/247/EC.