基于抛物型缓坡方程模拟近岸波流场

波浪向近岸传播的过程中由波浪破碎等效应所形成的近岸波流场是近岸缓坡区域重要的环境动力因素之一。本文基于近岸波浪传播的缓坡模型对近岸波浪场及近岸波浪斜向入射破碎后所产生的沿岸波流场进行了数值模拟。考虑到波浪向近岸传播中局部复杂区域波向不易确定，计算时直接从波浪辐射应力定义出发，采用抛物型缓坡方程所给出的辐射应力公式来计算波浪产生的辐射应力，在此基础上耦合近岸波流场数学模型对近岸波浪破碎形成的波流场进行了数值模拟研究，结果表明本文的数值模型是有效的。     

综合考虑多种变形因素的近岸多向不规则波传播数学模型-I.模型的建立

根据线性波动的叠加原理和波浪方向谱理论,作者在综合考虑环境水流(水流因子)、非线性弥散影响(非线性因子)、底摩擦波能损失(底摩擦因子)、非缓坡地形影响(地形因子)、折射、绕射的近岸规则波传播基本方程的基础上,推导出了综合考虑多种变形因素的近岸多向不规则波传播变形的基本方程。使用有限差分作为数值方法,给出了波浪破碎和障碍物后边界的处理方法,建立了综合考虑环境水流(水流因子)、非线性弥散影响(非线性因子)、底摩擦波能损失(底摩擦因子)、非缓坡地形影响(地形因子)、折射、绕射、波浪破碎、障碍物影响的近岸多向不规则波传播变形数学模型。该模型以组成波的谱值及波向为变量,在实数域内求解,适合大面积海区波场计算。     

Numerical simulation of irregular wave transformation due to wave-induced current

In order to investigate the effects of wave breaking-induced currents on the transformation of irregular waves over a shoal, two numerical model systems, a combination of SWAN plus SHORECIRC and a combination of REF/DIF S plus SHORECIRC, were constructed. The experimental results of irregular breaking waves conducted by Vincent and Briggs [1989, Refraction–diffraction of irregular waves over a mound. J. Waterway Port Coast. Ocean Eng. 115(2), 269-284.] were simulated using these two wave and current model combinations. Even though the two model combinations show a slight disagreement on the wave transformations, the numerical results indicate that it is necessary to take into account the effect of the breaking-induced currents when the waves are breaking over a shoal: The computed results agree much better with the experimental measurements than the simulation results obtained by neglecting the wave-current interaction.     

基于SWASH模型的近岸波浪传播变形数值模拟

SWASH模型是一种新型的非静压时域波浪模拟。为了探讨SWASH模型对于解决近岸波浪传播变形问题的适用性,在对其控制方程、边界条件、数值解法等进行介绍的基础上,采用该模型分别模拟了正向规则波、斜向规则波和斜向不规则波入射条件下L形防波堤附近水域的波浪场和波生流场,并与物理试验结果进行对比。结果表明,SWASH模型较好地复演了波浪在近岸区域所发生的浅水变形、折射、破碎,以及堤前反射、堤内绕射等物理现象,波高沿断面的定量分布与试验结果吻合良好,同时较好地模拟了不同波况下防波堤附近水域的波生流场,说明该模型适用于复杂岸线和地形条件下波浪传播变形的数值模拟。     

Numerical simulation of wave transformation,breaking and runup by a contravariant fully non-linear Boussinesq equations model

In this paper we propose a new model based on a contravariant integral form of the fully non-linear Boussinesq equations(FNBE) in order to simulate wave transformation phenomena, wave breaking, runup and nearshore currents in computational domains representing the complex morphology of real coastal regions. The above-mentioned contravariant integral form, in which Christoffel symbols are absent, is characterized by the fact that the continuity equation does not include any dispersive term. The Boussinesq equation system is numerically solved by a hybrid finite volume-finite difference scheme. A high-order upwind weighted essentially non-oscillatory(WENO) finite volume scheme that involves an exact Riemann solver is implemented. The wave breaking is represented by discontinuities of the weak solution of the integral form of the non-linear shallow water equations(NSWE). On the basis of the shock-capturing high order WENO scheme a new procedure, for the computation of the structure of the solution of a Riemann problem associated with a wet/dry front, is proposed in order to simulate the run up hydrodynamics in swash zone. The capacity of the proposed model to correctly represent wave propagation, wave breaking, run up and wave induced currents is verified against test cases present in literature. The results obtained are compared with experimental measures, analytical solutions or alternative numerical solutions. The proposed model is applied to a real case regarding the simulation of wave fields and nearshore currents in the coastal region opposite San Mauro Cilento(Italy).     

Effects of the wave directionality on wave transformation

A numerical model is proposed based on the time domain solution of the Boussinesq equations using the finite element method in this paper. The typical wave diffraction through a breakwater gap is simulated to validate the numerical model. Good agreements are obtained between the numerical and experimental results. Further, the effects of the wave directionality on the wave diffraction through a breakwater gap and the wave transformation on a planar bathymetry are numerically investigated. The results show that the wave directional spreading has a significant effect on the wave diffraction and refraction. However, when the directional spreading parameter s is larger than around 40, the effects of the wave directional spreading on the wave transformation can be neglected in engineering applications.     

Application of SWAN+ADCIRC to tide-surge and wave simulation in Gulf of Maine during Patriot's Day storm

The southern coast of the Gulf of Maine in the United States is prone to flooding caused by nor'easters. A state-of-the-art fully-coupled model, the Simulating WAves Nearshore(SWAN) model with unstructured grids and the ADvanced CIRCulation(ADCIRC) model, was used to study the hydrodynamic response in the Gulf of Maine during the Patriot's Day storm of 2007, a notable example of nor'easters in this area. The model predictions agree well with the observed tide-surges and waves during this storm event. Waves and circulation in the Gulf of Maine were analyzed. The Georges Bank plays an important role in dissipating wave energy through the bottom friction when waves propagate over the bank from offshore to the inner gulf due to its shallow bathymetry. Wave energy dissipation results in decreasing significant wave height(SWH) in the cross-bank direction and wave radiation stress gradient, which in turn induces changes in currents. While the tidal currents are dominant over the Georges Bank and in the Bay of Fundy, the residual currents generated by the meteorological forcing and waves are significant over the Georges Bank and in the coastal area and can reach 0.3 m/s and 0.2 m/s, respectively. In the vicinity of the coast, the longshore current generated by the surface wind stress and wave radiation stress acting parallel to the coastline is inversely proportional to the water depth and will eventually be limited by the bottom friction. The storm surge level reaches 0.8 m along the western periphery of the Gulf of Maine while the wave set-up due to radiation stress variation reaches 0.2 m. Therefore, it is significant to coastal flooding.     

基于有限体积法的三维波生近岸流数值模型

波浪破碎产生近岸流是近岸浅水区域一个重要的水动力现象。该文利用辐射应力的概念,并考虑辐射应力沿水深的变化、波浪破碎引起的水滚以及波流共同作用下的水底剪应力,建立了基于有限体积法的三维波生近岸流数值模型。运用建立的数值模型模拟了两个实验室实验,并同实验的实测结果进行了对比。结果表明,建立的数值模型能够较好地模拟波浪破碎产生的近岸流。     

基于随机理论的河道洪水扩散波模型改进

河道洪水演算在洪水预报、水资源工程规划及水利工程建设等领域有着广泛的应用。以河道洪水扩散波方程为基础,基于随机理论,考虑模型参数的随机性,将参数作为随机变量进行分析探讨,建立了河道洪水随机扩散波模型,并借助于计算机和数学手段求解出流过程的均值和方差。为了验证随机扩散波模型的适用性,将其应用于汉江的襄阳-皇庄河段洪水演算。结果表明:在河道洪水演算中引入随机理论,在计算出流过程的均值的同时可以给出出流的均方差,从而确定出流过程的概率分布,可为防洪风险分析等工程实际应用提供科学依据。     

A LINEAR HYBRID MODEL OF MSE AND BEM FOR FLOATING STRUCTURES IN COASTAL ZONES

1. INTRODUCTION In coastal zones, wave propagation in water is considerably affected by the topography of the sea bottom, which may result in changes in the direction and shape of the waves and may cause redistribution of their energy in space, etc. Waves may also lose a certain amount of energy by wavebreaking or by other forms of dissipation. It can be easily seen that wave propagation in shallow waters is a very complicated process resulting from various mechanisms. The dominant mechan…     

基于RANS方程的海堤越浪数值模拟

基于FLUENT商业化软件,以RANS方程为控制方程,基于有限体积法,采用k-epsilon湍流模型,运用一种“解析松弛”方法实现了适用于VOF方法的数值源造波技术。在该数值波浪水槽中对规则波在不可渗透简单斜坡堤上越浪过程进行了数值模拟,将越浪量计算值同物理实验结果及基于非线性浅水方程的数值结果进行了比对。结果表明：该数值模型能够较好地复演海堤越浪过程,同基于非线性浅水方程的数值结果相比,能更有效地模拟含有强烈卷吸、射流和破碎的海堤越浪问题。     

波浪辐射应力理论的应用和研究进展

回顾波浪辐射应力张量的概念，前人的研究成果表明微幅波的辐射应力理论是符合实际的．综述波浪辐射应力理论在海洋流体动力学中的应用，分析该理论在研究近岸流的形成、波浪增水和波浪减水、沿岸流流速的沿程分布、破波带内底部反向流的速度分布、河口海岸泥沙运动、海岸碎波拍和波流相互作用等问题中的应用．总结波浪辐射应力的研究进展，包括考虑有限振幅波和不规则波的辐射应力场以及微幅波辐射应力张量沿水深分布的研究，指出辐射应力张量沿水深分布的研究可以为探讨近岸水动力环境的垂直结构以及完善波流相互作用三维数学模型提供理论基础．为深入考察波浪辐射应力张量沿水深分布情况，提出进一步研究的思路．     

Three-dimensional unstructured modelling of wave-induced circulation over a plane and irregular beach

Nearshore currents have a complicated circulation structure over a beach due to the mutual interaction between waves and currents. To investigate the wave-induced circulation over a beach, a three-dimensional unstructured model accounting for the combined actions of waves and currents is established. The wave distribution over the beach is computed by a wave model and the depth-dependent wave radiation stresses with the surface roller are employed in the hydrodynamic model. The present model takes the mixing coefficients and the bottom shear stress under waves and currents into account. To evaluate the three-dimensional unstructured model, the laboratory experiments over a plane and irregular beach are used to test the performance of the model. The undertow over a plane beach is well reproduced and the vertical variability is captured. The performance of the model over an irregular beach is well displayed in the reproduction of pairs of counter-rotating primary circulations at the embayment troughs. Meanwhile, the secondary circulations are observed in the swash zone. The model captures the circulation systems over a beach and the circulation structures of the wave-induced currents are well exhibited.     

大型围垦工程海堤建设过程中围区内波浪传播研究

以浙江省温州市某大型围垦工程为例,采取波浪断面物理模型试验与数值模拟相结合的方法,运用MIKE21中SW模块,数值模拟了越堤次生波、龙口绕射波和小风区风成浪综合作用下的波浪传播变形现象,探讨了一期海堤平面位置、建设抬高过程以及龙口布置等因素对二期海堤堤前波浪要素的影响。     

考虑介质随机性的结构-地基系统地震反应分析

本文结合近场波动数值模拟的解耦方法和随机有限元方法，提出了一种可考虑介质随机性的时域土-结构体系地震反应分析的解耦方法，此方法的给出为在场地及结构地震反应分析中考虑场地介质及结构参数的随机性的影响提供了较高精度且便于应用的理论方法。本文还以小湾拱坝为例分析了考虑介质随机性时结构的地震反应。     

A PRACTICAL MODEL FOR THE DECAY OF RANDOM WAVES ON MUDDY BEACHES

A practical model has been developed for the propagation and decay of random waves on muddy beaches. In the model, an irregular wave train is characterized by its root-mean-squared wave height, mean wave frequency and mean wave direction. It is also assumed that the wave spectrum is narrow-banded in terms of both frequency and direction. Transformation of root-mean-squared wave height is derived from the conservation of energy flux for individual wave components. Energy dissipation is considered due to both wave breaking and the dynamics response of muddy seabed. The model is applied to waves on the muddy beach at Hangzhou Bay, and the numerical results obtained are shown to be acceptably accurate as comparing with available field data.     

THE EFFECTS OF RADIATION STRESS ON WAVE HEIGHTS AND SEA LEVEL IN THE INTERACTION OF COUPLED WAVE-TIDE-SURGE IN THE COASTAL AREA

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不恒定非均匀流场中随机波的折绕射联合数学模型

根据考虑流影响的缓坡方程，运用波动叠加原理，导出了一种适合大范围缓变地形情况下，不恒定非均匀流场中随机波的折绕射联合的数值模式。应用该模式进行了概化的半椭圆斜坡海底及渤海湾西部海域不恒定非均匀流场中随机波传播的折绕射联合的数值计算，获得了比较满意的结果。     

曲线坐标系下波浪传播的数学模型及其比较与验证

引入自适应网格技术,建立了曲线坐标系下考虑能耗影响的缓变水深水域波浪传播的数值模拟模型,通过在模型中引入能量耗散项以更好地处理全透射边界。基于原型缓坡方程,完善了等水深的轴对称双导堤水域内波浪传播的精确解表达式及其计算结果;提供了等水深的环形河道水域内较为详细的精确解。在极坐标系下就等水深的轴对称双导堤水域内波浪的传播,推导了缓坡方程的小角度抛物近似模型的解析解表达式。就上述两水域内波浪传播的数值模拟模型的数值解、抛物近似模型的解、精确解进行了详细比较,说明数值解与精确解相吻合、数值模拟模型比小角度和大角度抛物近似模型具有更高的精度。数值模拟模型能较好地模拟水深复杂变化的地形上波浪的传播,能有效反映波浪传播过程中的多种物理现象。     

二维坡面雨洪水动力模型研究

由降雨产生的坡面洪水运动过程复杂,其可靠模拟仍有待深入。该文建立了基于浅水方程的二维坡面雨洪动力过程模拟的动力波模型,选用单坡、三阶坡面和复杂起伏多变坡面的雨洪运动为数值算例,进行了数值检验并与忽略惯性项的扩散波模型进行了对比分析。结果表明:动力波模型可以较好地模拟洪水过程,在峰现时间,洪峰水位的捕捉和退水过程等方面都表现出优良的特性;而且动力波模型在复杂坡面雨洪过程计算的适应性方面表现更佳。而扩散波模型在计算精度和稳定性方面都相对要差。虽然扩散波模型在单坡面算例中的计算精度也较高,但因受忽略惯性项的影响,退水过程有明显偏离。