Dermatological study on dark eye circles and their treatment with newly developed cosmetics

Repeated exposure to UV radiation can induce cutaneous damage leading to permanent structural degeneration of the dermal extracellular matrix and formation of visible wrinkles. It is not so easy to efface severely UV-damaged skin, because the degenerated abnormal structure of that skin is usually fixed by tight cross-linkings. So, we think that one of the important approaches to the anti-wrinkle skin care is the treatment of photodamaged skin in the early stage. However, it is difficult for most cosmetic users to perceive their dermal UV damage. In the present study, we investigated the possibilities of two non-invasive measurements of skin mechanical properties as convenient biomarkers of degeneration of the extracellular matrix. The condition of the three-dimensional structures of dermal collagen fibres, which depends on the degree of UV damage, correlated with a mechanical parameter measured by the Resiliometer we developed. Accumulation of denatured elastic fibres (elastosis) induced by photoaging correlated with certain mechanical parameters measured by the Cutometer. These findings suggest that dermal structural changes associated with photoaging can be assessed non-invasively using these devices.     

A Non-Destructive Method for Assessing Hair Interior and Surface Damage by Near Infrared Spectroscopy

This paper reports a non-destructive method for evaluating hair interior and surface damage based on near-infrared (NIR) diffuse reflectance (DR) spectroscopy. It is important to know the extent of chemical damage in the interior and surface proteins of the hair in order to choose an appropriate restoration agent or chemical treatment. Unfortunately, though there are many simple and non-destructive methods for evaluating the hair surface, the existing evaluation methods for monitoring chemical changes in the interior proteins are very complicated and destructive. Therefore, we have attempted to develop a new non-destructive method to evaluate the damage of the hair interior and surface simultaneously by using NIR-DR spectroscopy. The key to this study was the combined application of NIR-DR spectroscopy and principal component analysis to development of a method for the evaluation of hair damage and finding the most suitable wavenumber region (5060—4500 cm^-1) for this evaluation. In this study, we developed a new evaluation method that can indicate hair interior and surface damage conditions induced by chemical treatments in a simple, rapid, non-destructive manner based on NIR-DR using a fibre probe on hair
Paper presented at the IFSCC International Conference 2005, Florence, Italy.     

Molecular mechanisms of green tea polyphenols with protective effects against skin photoaging

Whereas green tea has historically been consumed in high quantities in Northeast Asia, its popularity is also increasing in many Western countries. Green tea is an abundant source of plant polyphenols exhibiting numerous effects that are potentially beneficial for human health. Accumulating evidence suggests that green tea polyphenols confer protective effects on the skin against ultraviolet (UV) irradiation-induced acceleration of skin aging, involving antimelanogenic, antiwrinkle, antioxidant, and anti-inflammatory effects as well as prevention of immunosuppression. Melanin pigmentation in the skin is a major defense mechanism against UV irradiation, but pigmentation abnormalities such as melasma, freckles, senile lentigines, and other forms of melanin hyperpigmentation can also cause serious health and aesthetic issues. Furthermore, UV irradiation initiates the degradation of fibrillar collagen and elastic fibers, promoting the process of skin aging through deep wrinkle formation and loss of tissue elasticity. UV irradiation-induced formation of free radicals also contributes to accelerated photoaging. Additionally, immunosuppression caused by UV irradiation plays an important role in photoaging and skin carcinogenesis. In this review, we summarize the current literature regarding the antimelanogenic, antiwrinkle, antioxidant, and immunosuppression preventive mechanisms of green tea polyphenols that have been demonstrated to protect against UV irradiation-stimulated skin photoaging, and gauge the quality of evidence supporting the need for clinical studies using green tea polyphenols as anti-photoaging agents in novel cosmeceuticals.     

Detection and Identification of Free Radicals Generated by UV and Visible Light in Ex Vivo Human Skin

Citation: IFSCC Magazine , 11 (2008) (3) 207–215
Contrary to the skin biological end points used for determination of the sun protection factor and UVA protection factor, generation of excess free radicals in skin – mainly reactive oxygen species – is potentially the source of much skin damage and so represents a more general biophysical answer to the effects of sun exposure of different wavelengths. By applying electron spin resonance spectroscopy to human skin biopsies, we determined in previous work a free radical action spectrum covering the ultraviolet and visible light range. Convolution of the action spectrum with sunlight spectral irradiance (280–700nm) showed the importance of visible light in free radical generation. This unexpected finding led us to perform further investigations. Firstly, an existing sun simulator was modified so that its output truly mimics the sun's full spectrum, including visible light. Human skin biopsies were irradiated either by this device or a conventional UV source, confirming our previous calculations: half of the free radicals are generated in the 400–700nm visible wavelength range. Secondly, the visible spectrum of the modified sun simulator was divided into narrow-band lights using different pairs of short- and long-pass filters. Human skin biopsies impregnated with specific spin traps were exposed to the different narrow-band lights to identify different types of free radicals. Generation of dangerous radical species like ^•O2-, ^•OH and ^•CH-R was observed in different parts of the visible range, confirming the relevance of the free radical action spectrum and its ability to predict skin protection.
Keywords:  UV + VIS solar simulator, ex vivo human skin, free radicals, action spectrum, Electron Spin Resonance     

Development of quantitative analysis for the micro-relief of the skin surface using a video microscope and its application to examination of skin surface texture

We developed a new analyzing method for characterizing a skin surface morphology image obtained easily by a video microscope. For the numerical analysis of various characteristics of the skin surface morphology, three parameters were invented; 'the width of the skin furrows,'the fineness of the skin ridges,' and 'the size of the skin pores.' The width of the skin furrows was calculated as mean width of the skin furrows. The fineness of the skin ridges was calculated as number of the skin ridges. The size of the skin pores was calculated as total area of skin pores. The analyzed parameters were compared with the clinical scores evaluated by trained experts, resulting in a high correlation (r = 0.54–0.72). Upon the age related changes in the parameters described above, the number of the skin ridges decreased at around the age of 20, and the size of the skin pores became large with aging during the teens through 40's. In the analysis of seasonal changes, the ridge parameter was high in summer, and the furrow parameter was high in winter. Upon the relationship between the images (the skin surface patterns) and the skin physiological parameters, the skin with a low barrier function (high TEWL) or that with high sebum content gave a low density of the skin ridges. From these results it seems that the image analysis of skin surface morphology using a video microscope is quite useful for an easy and simple evaluation of skin condition.     

Light-induced changes in semi-hard cheese determined by fluorescence spectroscopy and chemometrics

The impact of modified atmosphere packaging and different storage conditions on light-induced oxidation of sliced Havarti cheese has been evaluated by fluorescence spectroscopy. Data were analyzed with principal component analysis (PCA) and 50–50 MANOVA showing effects of storage in light or dark, light source (yellow or white light), light intensity, residual oxygen level, headspace volume, and storage time. No effect of storage temperature was noted. The PCA gave three components. One of these indicated a decrease in riboflavin content, which was seen only for samples exposed to white light. Another component denoted the variation in spectra below 500 nm probably due to formation of fluorescent oxidation products. The third component described the variation above 600 nm, which is ascribed to photodegradation of porphyrins. The porphyrins were degraded with storage time for both light sources.     

同步荧光法结合主成分分析法鉴别橙汁品质

对鲜榨橙汁与市售某品牌橙汁进行同步荧光扫描得到其三维荧光光谱,并从光谱中提取出3 组特征峰。然后结合其中荧光物质的特性,得知这3 组特征峰对应物质分别为VB2、VB6和黄酮类物质。同时,采用主成分分析法结合于激发波长240～640 nm、发射波长与激发波长差为30 nm条件下扫描而得的同步荧光光谱数据对所有橙汁样品进行聚类并识别,效果良好。结果表明：将荧光光谱技术与光谱模式识别方法相结合,可为橙汁品质鉴别提供有力技术支持。     

聚芳酯织物的光老化性能

通过氙弧灯光照老化实验处理Vectran织物,研究了Vectran织物光老化前后的拉伸性能和结构变化,探讨了Vectran纤维的光老化机理。结果表明：氙弧灯光的加速老化使Vectran织物的拉伸强力明显下降。红外图谱显示：1725cm-1附近处的C=O和1110cm-1附近处的C―O吸收峰有明显下降,分子链发生断裂;ESEM显示：纤维内部有低分子物质析出,导致试样表面微观结构严重粗化;DSC显示：光老化使纤维内部的结晶结构遭到严重破坏。     

基于透射光谱的苹果霉心病多因子无损检测

针对目前苹果霉心病难以检测的问题,提出一种基于透射光谱的苹果霉心病多因子无损检测方法,通过融合多波段透射光谱与苹果直径,构建苹果霉心病判别模型,实现了苹果霉心病无损检测。搭建光谱测试范围在200～1 025 nm的透射光谱采集平台,实验获取232 个苹果样本的透射光谱数据,采用游标卡尺获得苹果直径数据。采用杂散光校正,非线性校正对苹果透射原始光谱进行预处理,选取与霉心病发病相关的12 个波段透射光强值,结合苹果的直径进行主成分分析,将分析的结果作为自变量,建立苹果霉心病Fisher判别模型。经过异校验验证,模型总体识别率为93.1%,而仅采用透射光谱构建的模型识别率为91.37%。结果表明,基于透射光谱与直径结合的多因子检测方法可实现苹果霉心病的准确判定,为苹果霉心病的快速、无损检测提供可行思路。     

Classification of brandies and wine distillates using front face fluorescence spectroscopy

This study demonstrates the use of front face fluorescence spectroscopy and multivariate data analysis for differentiating brandies from wine distillates. Owing to the low price of the wine distillates, they are sometimes used for the counterfeiting brandies. For this reason, there is a need for a rapid method for drink authentication to reassure consumers and protect regional designations. Total luminescence and synchronous scanning fluorescence spectra were recorded followed by a classification of samples using principal component analysis (PCA) and hierarchical cluster analysis (HCA). Both PCA and HCA carried out on the emission spectra (360–650 nm) recorded at excitation wavelength 350 nm and synchronous fluorescence spectra (200–700 nm) collected at wavelength interval 90 nm provide very good differentiation between the two spirit classes. Less good classification was obtained using excitation spectra (225–425 nm) obtained at emission wavelength 440 nm. These results indicate that the front face fluorescence spectroscopy offers a promising approach for the authentication of brandies.     

Development of chitosan-coated liposomes for sustained delivery of tamarind fruit pulp's extract to the skin

In this study, chitosan-coated liposomes were developed. To entrap lyophilized tamarind extract containing alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) together with tartaric acid, the reverse phase evaporation method was used to obtain well-formed liposomes loaded with the extract. The highest entrapment efficiency of 68.3 ± 3.0% into the liposomes was obtained with liposomes consisting of phosphatidylcholine and cholesterol in a molar ratio of 2 : 1 after the extrusion process. The average particle size of the prepared liposomes was 158 ± 26 nm showing a negative zeta potential of −6 mV. For the preparation of the chitosan-coated liposomes, two selected independent parameters were varied: chitosan concentrations of 0.1, 0.5 and 1.0% w/v and volumes of the chitosan solutions of 1, 2 and 3 mL, to study the effects of such parameters on the entrapment efficiency of the extract-loaded liposomes. Variation in the volumes of the chitosan solution did not affect the entrapment efficiency of the liposomes. However, the entrapment efficiency of the AHAs in the chitosan-coated liposomes significantly increased with increasing chitosan concentrations. The size of the chitosan-coated liposomes was in the range of 200–300 nm with a positive zeta potential in the range of 6–29 mV. An in vitro release study using dialysis technique was performed to evaluate the release profile of the tartaric acid from the chitosan-coated liposomes. The obtained results showed the effect of the chitosan-coated liposomes on the lower release rate and on the amount of tartaric acid in comparison with that of the uncoated liposomes. The study in an in vitro skin cell model indicated that the developed system could enhance the potential of tamarind's AHAs on the stimulation of human keratinocyte proliferation being two-fold higher than the solution of the tamarind extract.     

Daily Ingestion of Aloe Vera Gel Powder Containing Aloe Sterols Prevents Skin Photoaging in OVX Hairless Mice

Estrogen deficiencies associated with menopause accelerate spontaneous skin aging and stimulate the ultraviolet (UV) irradiation‐induced photoaging of skin. However, food compositions with the potential to ameliorate the UV irradiation‐induced acceleration of skin aging with menopause have not yet been investigated in detail. In the present study, we examined the ability of plant sterols derived from Aloe vera gel to prevent the UV irradiation‐induced acceleration of skin aging in ovariectomized mice. Skin transepidermal water loss (TEWL) was significantly higher in the ovariectomy group than in the sham operation group following UVB irradiation, whereas skin elasticity was significantly lower. Ultraviolet B (UVB) irradiation induced greater reductions in skin hyaluronic acid levels and more severe collagen fiber damage in the derims in the ovariectomy group than in the sham group. The intake of AVGP significantly ameliorated this acceleration in skin aging by reducing the expression of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) and increasing that of epidermal growth factor (EGF) and hyaluronan synthase (HAS) in the skin. These results indicate that AVGP supplementation prevents skin damage induced by UVB irradiation and ovariectomy in part by inhibiting damage to the extracellular matrix.     

A simple and specific high performance liquid chromatography method for the assay of a series of novel dermal penetration enhancers

A series of clofibric acid amides has been synthesized and previously reported by the authors as possessing enhancer activity in vitro in athymic nude mouse skin against model drugs, hydrocortisone-21-acetate and β-methasone-17-valerate. An assay was required for each of these enhancers however, which would be specific for each compound and would also separate model drugs and their metabolite peaks. This study reports reverse phase high performance liquid chromatography assays for clofibric acid amide and seven derivatives (Ia–Ig). All enhancers showed maximum absorption at 232 nm, betamethasone (BM) and its valerate (BMV) at 238 nm, and hydrocortisone (HC) and its acetate (HCA) at 242 nm. Practical units of detection for the amides were 0.46–2.8 μg ml^-1 and peaks were sharp and well-separated from steroid peaks in three vehicles – methanol alone. Franz diffusion cell receptor phase samples (isotonic phosphate buffer), and full-thickness athymic nude mouse skin extracts in methanol.
Mobile phases consisted of various proportions of acetonitrile and water, some with 2-propanol. The octyl amide for example, with mobile phase CH₃CN: H₂O (85:15) at 1 ml min^-1 had a retention time (t_R) of 7.9 mins. Under the same conditions, retention times for the steroids were HC, t_R= 3.3 mins; HCA, t_R= 4.3 mins; BM, t_R= 3.4 mins; BMV, t_R= 4.6 mins.     

Elastin structure and its involvement in skin photoageing

Skin aging is a complex process that may be caused by factors that are intrinsic and extrinsic to the body. Ultraviolet (UV) radiation represents one of the main sources of skin damage over the years and characterizes a process known as photoaging. Among the changes that affect cutaneous tissue with age, the loss of elastic properties caused by changes in elastin production, increased degradation and/or processing produces a substantial impact on tissue esthetics and health. The occurrence of solar elastosis is one of the main markers of cutaneous photoaging and is characterized by disorganized and non‐functional deposition of elastic fibers. The occurrence of UV radiation‐induced alternative splicing of the elastin gene, which leads to inadequate synthesis of the proteins required for the correct assembly of elastic fibers, is a potential explanation for this phenomenon. Innovative studies have been fundamental for the elucidation of rarely explored photoaging mechanisms and have enabled the identification of effective therapeutic alternatives such as cosmetic products. This review addresses cutaneous photoaging and the changes that affect elastin in this process.     

片烟四段式气调绿色醇化技术体系的构建

  背景和目的  烟叶醇化是改善烟叶品质、提升烟叶使用价值的重要环节。自然醇化是目前应用最为广泛的仓储醇化方式,但该方式仍存在片烟到达质量高点后质量下降较快、易发生霉变虫害、使用化学农药熏蒸等问题。  方法  以福建、云南、阿根廷等国内外主产烟区片烟作为试验材料,研究气调杀虫防霉、气调醇化、气调保质技术的最优氧气浓度,比较分析了不同醇化条件下片烟的感官质量、外观质量及pH值等品质因素。  结果  （1）气调杀虫防霉过程,将氧气浓度设置为2%以下,密封封存90天,可以有效抑制不同虫态的烟草甲及霉变的发生。（2）气调醇化过程,7%~9%氧气浓度气调醇化120天以上,可明显提升片烟感官质量,延缓片烟颜色过度转深。（3）气调保质过程,将氧气浓度调至2%以下并保持到片烟开垛,可有效保持片烟品质。（4）四段式气调醇化法较大程度延长了片烟质量周期,其适宜使用期比自然醇化至少延长15个月,延缓了片烟pH值的下降速率。（5）四段式气调醇化过程垛内相对湿度保持相对平稳,垛内氧气浓度可人工调节,垛内二氧化碳在无人工干预情况下持续升高。  结论  本研究建立的四段式气调醇化技术体系,既不使用剧毒化学农药熏蒸杀虫,又提高了片烟醇化质量,延长了片烟的适宜使用期和最佳使用期,并明确了不同产区片烟的科学使用策略,为片烟贮存提供了新的思路。      

高光谱图像对灰葡萄孢霉、匍枝根霉、炭疽菌的生长拟合及区分

利用高光谱成像系统获取真菌在马铃薯葡萄糖琼脂板上培养期间的高光谱图像,采用400～1 000 nm全波段光谱响应值,并计算全波段的平均值、波峰716 nm处的光谱值和全波段内光谱值第1主成分的得分值,利用这3 种参数计算方法构建真菌生长模拟模型。结果表明,3 种方法建立的模型测试集的决定系数（R2）为0.722 3～0.991 4,均方误差和均方根误差分别为2.03×10－4～5.34×10－3、0.011～0.756。建立的生长模型与传统菌落计数法建立的生长模型之间的相关系数为0.887～0.957。另外,主成分分析和偏最小二乘法判别分析可以区分3 种不同菌种。其中,偏最小二乘法判别分析模型对培养36 h的3 种真菌及对照组的区分准确率为97.5%。高光谱图像技术能够用来对真菌生长进行模拟和真菌的种类区分。     

UV resistance graft modification of poly(p-phenylene-l,3,4-oxadiazole) fiber with polyhedral oligomeric silsesquioxane

Using the reaction of amino and acyl chloride generated amide bond, poly(p-phenylene-1,3,4-oxadiazole) (p-POD) fiber was pretreated with sulfuric acid solution and was acyl chlorinated with dichloromethane and thionyl chloride. Then octa-ammonium polyhedral oligomeric silsesquioxanes (POSS-NH₂) linked on the fiber surface with the amide bond, which was as UV absorbent to retard UV photoaging. Under the existing experimental conditions, a higher sulfuric acid solution concentration, a higher temperature or a longer time was beneficial for increasing the fixed amount of POSS and prevent the UV accelerated aging of the fiber. The surface morphology, tensile strength, crystallinity, degree of orientation of fibers, and intrinsic viscosity of polymer solution were characterized in detail. This graft process with POSS-NH₂ introduced silicon elements onto the fiber surface. Changes in the surface morphology and chemical composition are not obvious, except that part of the oxadiazole rings were opened. After UV-accelerated aging, the degree of orientation and the crystallinity of the fiber and the intrinsic viscosity of polymer solution were well maintained. The condensed and macromolecular structures of the fiber were well protected.     

Discrimination of Beer Flavours by Analysis of Volatiles Using the Mass Spectrometer as an Electronic Nose

Entire mass spectra of beer headspace components were used as fingerprints for beer brand classification and differentiation of beer samples stored under various conditions. Chemometric analysis of the mass spectra allowed for the discrimination of beer brands and for the detection of beer aging and photodegradation. The numeric methods used include unsupervised PCA modelling and discrimination using kNN, LDA, and D‐PLS methods.     

中波紫外线致皮肤光老化机制及茶叶抗光老化作用研究进展

过量的紫外线照射会引起皮肤的光老化,其中以中波紫外线生物学效应最为明显。皮肤的光老化会导致皮肤临床上和组织学上的多种病变,包括胶原蛋白减少、皮肤变硬、皮层变薄、色素沉积等,并会引起日光性皮炎等多种皮肤相关疾病。中波紫外线诱导皮肤光老化的原因很多,其中最重要的原因是丝裂原活化蛋白激酶(mitogen activated protein kinase,MAPK)通路被激活,引起金属基质蛋白酶(matrix metalloproteinase,MMPs)分泌量增加导致细胞间基质被分解。茶叶作为广为人知的保健饮品,其在抗皮肤光老化方面的作用已得到了证实。茶叶水提物可以通过抑制MAPK磷酸化的途径来预防中波紫外线所致的皮肤光老化症状。文中还对该领域现有研究存在的不足进行了分析,旨在为下一步更全面深入的研究提供研究参考。     

Short communication: Suitability of fluorescence spectroscopy for characterization of commercial milk of different composition and origin

Thirteen milk brands comprising 76 pasteurized and UHT milk samples of various compositions (whole, reduced fat, skimmed, low lactose, and high protein) were obtained from local supermarkets, and milk samples manufactured in various countries were discriminated using front-face fluorescence spectroscopy (FFFS) coupled with chemometric tools. The emission spectra of Maillard reaction products and riboflavin (MRP/RF; 400 to 600 nm) and tryptophan (300 to 400 nm) were recorded using FFFS, and the excitation wavelengths were set at 360 nm for MRP/RF and 290 nm for tryptophan. Principal component analysis (PCA) was applied to analyze the normalized spectra. The PCA of spectral information from MRP/RF discriminated the milk samples originating in different countries, and PCA of spectral information from tryptophan discriminated the samples according to composition. The fluorescence spectral data were compared with liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry results for the glycation extent of the milk samples, and a positive association (R² = 0.84) was found between the degree of glycation of α-lactalbumin and the MRP/RF spectral data. This study demonstrates the ability and sensitivity of FFFS to rapidly discriminate and classify commercial milk with various compositions and processing conditions.