开发的靛蓝针织牛仔织物的性能

结合2种织造方法,开发了由100％靛蓝染色的20 tex棉纱编织的3种不同组织的针织牛仔织物.测试了这些针织物制作服装所必需的物理特性.结果表明：单面平针组织由于具有较好的悬垂性而适合做套头衫,单珠地网眼组织、浮线组织的织物较厚重,可用于如外套、夹克等成衣或披肩的制作.     

Ultraviolet radiation protection by cotton fabrics: role of porous yarn structure,fabric thickness and pore size

The effect of porous yarn structure on ultraviolet (UV) radiation protection by cotton fabric has been investigated. Fabrics with porous yarn structure showed higher ultraviolet protection factor (UPF) in comparison with that of fabrics woven from equivalent normal yarns. Fabric samples having different thickness and individual pore size, at same cover %, were produced by adjusting yarn count and thread density. UPF of UV absorber treated cotton fabrics increased continuously with decreasing thickness and reducing individual pore size when the fabric cover was kept constant at relatively higher levels (93 and 96%). For UV absorber treated cotton fabrics, individual pore size is the dominating factor for determining the UPF.     

Understanding the influence of fibre,yarn and fabric parameters on UV protection of wool-knitted fabrics

This work investigated the influence of fibre, yarn and fabric parameters on the UV protection of fabrics. It proposed a model for UV interaction based on a theoretical hypothesis, targeted experimentation and statistical analysis. Undyed and untreated wool-knitted fabrics with varying mean fibre diameter, yarn linear density, yarn twist, fabric cover factor and fabric structure were examined. A statistical model was presented to report the relationship between fibre/yarn/fabric parameters and fabric UPF values. An optical model on the interaction between the UV light and a single jersey fabric was constructed to understand the penetration of UV light. The models were verified by the UV transmittance results of knitted wool fabrics. The results obtained from the statistical and optical models were used to propose a set of optimized parameters for lightweight summer/spring UV-protective knitted fabrics. Testing confirmed that these fabric parameters provided both high UV protection and good tactile comfort.     

Air permeability and bursting strength of weft-knitted fabrics from glass yarn. Part II: knit architecture effect

In this study; the effects of loop, skip, and tuck stitch types, and weft-inlay yarn, on air permeability and bursting strength of weft-knitted fabrics from glass yarn were revealed. Due to clockwise rotation of wales and their arrangement being one on top of the other, besides the dramatic shortening of fabrics after their removal from the machine; fabrics with tuck stitches exhibited the highest stitch density, fiber content, and the shortest loop length. This caused the lowest air permeability and the highest bursting strength. Contrary to expectations, weft-inlay yarn did not contribute to bursting strength as much as tuck stitch did. An overall negative correlation between air permeability and bursting strength was disrupted by structures with tuck stitches. While tuck stitches from cotton yarn increased air permeability and decreased bursting strength in previous studies; this study indicated that tuck stitches from glass yarn decreased air permeability and increased bursting strength.     

Investigation into the curling behavior of single jersey weft-knitted fabrics and its prediction using neural network model

This research investigates the effect of fiber, yarn, and fabric parameters on curling phenomenon of single jersey weft-knitted fabrics which is interpreted to have curling surface in both course and wale direction. Taguchi’s experimental design is used to estimate the optimum process conditions and to examine the individual effects of all controllable factors on curling one by one. The controllable factors are blending ratio of polyester to cotton fiber, yarn twist and count, fabric structure, knit density, and relaxation time. Results show that fabric structure and knit density have the most dominant effect on the fabric curling. The optimum conditions of minimum curling values were also determined. Finally, the curling surface in course and wale direction as a two features of curling phenomenon was predicted using artificial neural network which selects scale conjugate gradient learning algorithm based on process parameters of single jersey weft-knitted fabrics. Our findings confirm the good capability of artificial neural network algorithm to predict these features.     

Relationship between bursting strength and ultraviolet protection property of 100% cotton-knitted fabrics

In this study, the effect of bursting strength of knitted fabrics in relation to ultraviolet protection was studied. Different knitting structures were investigated, which included single jerseys such as plain, pineapple, lacoste and other combinations of different knitting stitches of knit, tuck and miss as well as double-jersey fabrics of half Milano, full Milano, half cardigan, full cardigan, 1 × 1 rib and interlock. Experimental results show that when comparing different structures, the change in bursting strength with ultraviolet protection factor was found to be significant.     

Multi-objective optimization of air permeability and thermal conductivity of knitted fabrics with desired ultraviolet protection

A simultaneous optimal solution of two objectives, namely air permeability and thermal conductivity has been derived for both single jersey and 1 × 1 rib knitted fabrics with desired ultraviolet (UV) protection. As these two objectives are conflicting with each other, a set of optimal solutions are possible which are non-dominating in nature. These set of optimal solutions are known as Pareto optimal solutions. In this work, the Pareto optimal solutions were derived with an elitist multi-objective evolutionary algorithm based on Non-dominated Sorting Genetic Algorithm (NSGA II). These Pareto optimal solutions helped to obtain the effective knitting and yarn parameters to engineer knitted fabrics with optimal comfort and desired level of UV protection.     

调节服装徽循环气候的经编向隔织物

德国德累斯顿工业太学纺织服装学院对经编间隔织物的舒适性能进行了研究,该项计划编号为ALF 13086,主要针对于经编间隔织物的产品开发及其性能研究,目的是探讨经编间隔织物选用纤维材料以及纤维的数量对织物热湿传递性能的影响.     

调节服装微循环气候的经编间隔织物

德国德累斯顿工业大学纺织服装学院对经编间隔织物的舒适性能进行了研究，该项计划编号为ALF 13086，主要针对于经编间隔织物的产品开发及其性能研究，目的是探讨经编间隔织物选用纤维材料以及纤维的数量对织物热湿传递性能的影响。     

针织物活性艳绿色的染色实践

从艳绿色拼色染料结构、染色机理的角度探讨了影响针织物活性艳绿色染色的因素，制定了一套适合的染色工艺，解决了活性染料在纯棉针织物上拼染艳绿色易出现色花、色点、色差和风印等质量问题。     

Modelization of the influence of structural parameters on the ultraviolet protection factor provided by cellulosic woven fabrics

The main focus of this research is the modelization of the ultraviolet protection factor of the fabrics in relation with the most significant structural parameters that are likely to be varied during the weaving process: yarn number and thread count. By statistical planning and data analysis, a model that correlates the ultraviolet protection factor with these parameters is formulated for three different types of cellulosic fibres. The composition and structure of the studied fabrics are appropriate for their use in summer garments.     

网状结构织物制备与应用研究进展

为深入拓展网状结构织物在实际工程中的应用,分别介绍了近年来机织网状结构织物、针织网状结构织物和编织网状结构织物的应用基础和制备方法.从纤维原材料、织物组织结构和织物后整理方面重点阐述了网状结构织物的力学性能和仿真模拟的研究进展.针对网状结构织物应用领域的不断扩大,进一步探索了网状结构织物的力学性能,增强网状结构织物的动...     

Comparison of thermal comfort properties of single jersey fabrics produced by hollow yarns with different hollowness ratio

In this study, the thermal comfort properties of single jersey fabrics produced by conventional and hollow cotton yarns with different hollowness ratio have been investigated and compared. For this purpose, thermal conductivity, thermal resistance, thermal absorptivity, air permeability and water vapour permeability of core spun, hollow and conventional yarn fabrics were measured and evaluated statistically. It was observed that thermal comfort properties of single jersey fabrics were affected by the yarn structure and the fibre distribution within the yarn. The results showed that hollow yarn fabrics had better thermal comfort properties than that of conventional yarn fabrics. In hollow yarns, as the hollowness ratio increases, air permeability and thermal conductivity of single jersey fabrics decrease but thermal resistance, thermal absorptivity and water vapour permeability increase. Statistical analysis also indicated that the differences between properties of hollow yarn fabrics and conventional yarn fabrics were significant. Furthermore, the yarn hollowness ratio significantly affects thermal comfort properties of single jersey fabrics.     

角质酶和果胶酶复合酶对棉针织物的精练研究

分别用角质酶、果胶酶、角质酶/果胶酶复合酶对棉针织物进行精练,考察精练前后纤维表面形态以及果胶去除率、棉蜡去除率、强力、润湿性变化.结果表明:角质酶(1 500 U/L)/果胶酶(12.75 U/L)复合酶的果胶去除率、棉蜡去除率分别达到79.1%和43.0%,比单独使用果胶酶有所提高,说明两种酶对棉纤维的精练具有一定的协同作用.     

结构参数对温敏形状记忆机织物记忆性能的影响

 阐述形状记忆聚氨酯的形成机理及其温度响应特性,介绍形状记忆性能的表征方法。设计开发了不同结构参数的系列温敏形状记忆机织物并测试了记忆性能。结果表明：随着形状记忆（SM）纤维线密度的增加,形状记忆性能的提高程度不明显;组织结构方面以平纹织物的形状记忆性能为最佳,而其他组织结构织物之间无明显差异;随着紧度的增加,单相SM织物的形状回复率(SR)呈下降趋势而形变固定率(SF)略有上升倾向,双相SM织物则SR和SF均呈下降趋势;竹纤维经纱织物的记忆性能最佳,其他纤维经纱织物之间无明显差异;双相SM织物的SR明显高于单相SM织物,而单相SM织物的SF又较为明显地优于双相SM织物;单相SM织物在另一相上也具备形状记忆性能但指标值明显降低;纬纱含SM纤维织物的经向SF总体高于纬向。     

Impacts of yarn twist and staple length on UV protection of plain-knitted cotton fabrics

Yarn construction is an important attribute in knitting and end use performance of knitwear. Holistically, yarn construction affects fabric thickness and weight, and thereby influences ultraviolet (UV) protection of fabrics. Although impact of yarn construction on UV protection of fabrics is apparent, there appears to be limited research on it. This paper studied the UV protection of plain-knitted fabrics made of three types of ring-spun cotton yarns varying in yarn twist level and staple length. The results show that these yarn properties affect UV protection of fabrics differently before and after laundering. The modified low-twisted yarn possesses a bulky feature which creates a porous fabric structure for more ultraviolet radiation (UVR) transmission. The extra-long staple yarn offers uniform fabric appearance for higher UVR reflection. However, the regularity of yarn also restricts the fabric shrinkage in laundering and thus improvement in UV protection by shrinkage is not as obvious as that provided by the conventional short-staple yarn.     

彩棉/亚麻/白棉混纺针织物酶前处理工艺研究

采用精练酶对彩棉／亚麻／白棉混纺针织物进行处理,分析了酶用量、pH值、温度和时间等因素对精练酶精练效果的影响,并进一步采用正交实验优化了精练酶处理工艺参数。     

功能性针织物液态水传导性能

影响针织物液态水传导性能的重要因素除原料外,还有织物结构、线圈密度和面密度等指标。以棉和沟槽型新型合纤作原料,设计编织了几种舒适性双面网眼功能针织物。采用新型仪器MMT对织物的液态水传导性能进行综合测试,得出织物上下表面含水量随时间变化的曲线及水分传导速率和水分含量差指标,就织物的不同结构及物理指标对液态水传导性能的影响进行分析,发现双层网眼组织有较好的液态水传导性能,采用网眼均匀分布结构及适中线圈密度的织物水分传导性能优良。     

Effect of blend proportion on moisture management characteristics of bamboo/cotton knitted fabrics

This study reports an investigation of the effect of the blend-ratio of bamboo and cotton fibres on the moisture management properties of single jersey knitted fabrics composed of them. The moisture management properties of the fabrics were measured in SDL-ATLAS moisture management tester. The liquid transport properties of textiles, such as wetting time, maximum moisture absorption rate, maximum wetted radii, spreading speeds, cumulative one-way transport capacity and overall moisture management capacity (OMMC), have been considered and correlated to the blend ratio of bamboo/cotton yarn single jersey knitted fabrics. It was observed that as the bamboo content increased, the wetting time decreased, maximum wetted radius decreased, rate of absorption increased, spreading speed decreased and OMMC decreased.     

三维正交整体夹芯机织物的结构设计及织造

以正交结构为基本的三维结构单元,通过改变空心各边的长度和厚度,设计了多种经向截面为六边形的三维整体夹芯机织物结构,并在改造的普通织机上织造成功。在此基础上对试样的结构特点进行对比分析,同时探讨了三维正交夹芯机织物孔形尺寸的影响因素,比较了各种三维整体夹芯机织物试样的结构特点及织造方法。该研究为三维整体夹芯机织物的结构设计提供了参考,设计的多种三维夹芯机织物为蜂窝结构复合材料提供了性能良好的增强体。