Optimization of a surfactant-free antioxidant formulation using response surface methodology

Topical application of natural antioxidants has proven to be effective in protecting the skin against ultraviolet radiation-mediated oxidative damage. In previous studies, a Castanea sativa leaf ethanol:water (7:3) extract exhibited scavenging activity against different reactive oxygen species that are thought to contribute to oxidative damage in the skin. Its stability was shown to be enhanced in the presence of glycerine, and therefore a glycerine-based formulation with Carbopol 940 and liquid paraffin (LP) was developed as base. In this work, the influence of the glycerine and LP contents on the textural properties of the topical base and on the antioxidant activity of the formulation with C. sativa extract was evaluated using response surface methodology after 30?d storage at 20?°C and 40?°C. The textural analysis was performed in a texturometer, by carrying out a spreadability test. Paretto charts showed that both glycerine and LP contents significantly influenced the textural properties of the formulations (p?C. sativa extract leading to the conclusion that the selection of these ingredients contents can be guided exclusively by the desirable textural properties.     

Exploring the antioxidant potentiality of two food by-products into a topical cream: stability,in vitro and in vivo evaluation

Abstract

Context: Coffee silverskin (CS), a food by-product of the coffee roasting industry, has been studied as an active ingredient for skin care products due to its high potential of antioxidant activity and low cytotoxicity. Another food waste used as ingredient with promising characteristics is obtained from Medicago sativa (MS), which antioxidants and isoflavones content is high.

Objective: The aim of this study is to evaluate and characterize a new body formulation containing two food by-products extracts.

Materials and methods: Different parameters (such as pH, rheological behavior, color, antioxidant content and microbiological analysis) of a body cream formulation containing by-products (CSMS) and a formulation without extracts (F) were evaluated under a stability study during 180 days at different temperatures. Moreover, the in vitro cell toxicity and the in vivo skin safety and protective effects were also assessed.

Results: Formulation showed stable physical properties and antioxidant activity during 180 days of storage. In vitro toxicity was screened in two skin cell lines (fibroblasts and keratinocytes) and any toxicity was reported. The in vivo test carried out showed that, with respect to irritant effects, CSMS formulation can be regarded as safe for topical application and the skin hydratation improved after 30 days of its use. Also, considering the consumer acceptance, more than 90% of volunteers classified it as very pleasant.

Conclusions: CSMS formulation is stable and safe for topical use as no adverse and/or side effects were observed during the application period of testing, improving skin protective properties.     

Development and evaluation of topical films containing phytoestrogenic diaryheptanoids from Curcuma comosa extract

Rational: Phytoestrogens have been found to delay signs of skin aging in post-menopausal women, in a way similar to the effects of estrogens. Diarylheptanoids from a rhizome of traditional Thai herb named Curcuma comosa is considered to be a novel class of phytoestrogens.

Objectives: The aims of this study were to prepare effective topical films using mixed types and vary ratios of hydrophobic (Eudragit RL, Eudragit RS, and Eudragit NE) and hydrophilic polymer (hydroxylpropyl methycellulose, HPMC) with Transcutol as a permeation enhancer for delivery of diarylheptanoids to improve signs of skin aging in post-menopausal women.

Material and methods: Topical films were characterized for their physical and mechanical properties. In vitro release, skin permeation and accumulation were evaluated using Franz diffusion cell and the concentrations of diarylheptanoids were determined using high-performance liquid chromatography.

Results: The combined formulations between HPMC and Eudragit NE showed the satisfactory physical and mechanical properties, and also provided the highest amount of drug released compared to Eudragit RL and Eudragit RS. When the proportion of HPMC amount in the polymer matrix increased, the cumulative drug release also increased (HPMC: Eudragit NE 6:4?>?5:5?>?4:6). Moreover, they provided a high accumulation of diarylheptanoids within skin when using transcutol as a permeation enhancer.

Conclusion: The obtained data provided the skin permeation and accumulation behavior of diarylheptanoids, indicating the feasibility of a skin delivery of the C. comosa extract. The developed films might be topically used as an alternative therapy for protection of skin aging in peri and post-menopausal women.