纬编牛仔面料的设计及其弹性回复性

为研究纬编针织牛仔面料的保型性和尺寸稳定性,以靛蓝纱、本白棉纱、涤纶、氨纶为原料,采用成圈＋ 浮线、集圈＋ 浮线的复合组织设计了斜纹和鱼鳞结构的2类共11款弹力纬编牛仔面料作为裤料。对11款纬编牛仔面料的弹性回复性进行了测试,结果表明纬编牛仔面料的纵向弹性回复性均优于横向,适合横裁;织物纵向即腿围方向弹性回复性好,拉伸弹性实验测试中,横向即裤长方向因浮线的存在需施加较大的定伸长力,说明横向的延伸性及弹性较小;组织结构和浮线长度对横向弹性回复性影响较大,织物纵向的弹性回复性受氨纶线密度、比例和线长影响。当组织均为六路斜纹时,非弹性纱线密度大,单次拉伸弹性回复率与纵密成反比,但3次拉伸后弹性回复率下降明显,表明非弹性纱线密度越大,纬编牛仔的纵向多次拉伸弹性回复率越差。     

异形截面涤纶包芯纱织物的吸湿快干性能研究

探讨异形截面涤纶包芯纱织物的吸湿快干性能。以十字形截面涤纶短纤维为外包纤维,以三角形、十字形、一字形、波浪形截面涤纶长丝为芯纱制备了4种包芯纱及其织物;以十字形截面涤纶短纤和圆形截面涤纶短纤制备了涡流纱及其织物。测试分析了各纱线及其织物的性能。结果表明:波浪形截面涤纶包芯纱的长丝纵向沟槽小而多,其织物无论是吸湿性还是快干性都优于其他织物。认为:所开发的涡流纺异形截面涤纶包芯纱织物吸湿排汗性较好,可用于开发运动服、内衣等贴身织物。     

吸湿排汗涤纶精梳棉混纺产品的生产

为了掌握吸湿排汗异形涤纶纤维混纺产品的导湿性能，采用吸湿排汗异形涤纶纤维与精梳棉纤维纺制不同细度的混纺纱，织制不同组织的织物，并对其导湿性能进行了测试。结果表明：织物组织结构对吸湿排汗性能影响较大，成纱细度对织物的导湿性能也有影响，成纱细度细，织物吸水性较差，快干性较好。     

中空异形涤纶面料性能研究

中空异形涤纶纤维具有吸湿排汗和保暖性能,它采用了全新的纤维截面设计,将毛细管原理应用于纤维和纱线结构,使织物能够快速导湿、扩散和挥发汗液,从而保持人体皮肤的干爽感,达到提高织物舒适性目的.对中空异形涤纶、Coolmax、Coolbst、普通涤纶纤维等机织物的热湿性能进行了测试分析,认为该纤维保暖性能突出,但透气性及透湿汽性较差.     

功能性涤纶纤维及其产品的吸湿导湿性能

功能性涤纶纤维是由普通涤纶纤维经过必要的改性而制成的，如异形截面涤纶纤维，具有良好的吸湿导湿性能。对功能性涤纶COOLBST纤维纱线及其产品的吸湿导湿性能、吸湿导湿性能的耐洗涤性进行了测试，并对其作用机理进行了分析，指出COOLBST纤维及其织物具有优良的吸湿导湿性能。     

新颖涤纶纤维开发及其织物性能分析

中空异形涤纶纤维是具有吸湿排汗和保暖性能的新型涤纶纤维，它采用了全新的毛细管原理的纤维截面设计，使其织物能够快速导湿，扩散和挥发汗液，从而保持人体皮肤的干爽感，达到提高织物舒适性目的。     

功能性针织牛仔面料生产实践

采用29.0 tex的OE纺靛蓝棉纱和3.3 tex的氨纶编织面纱,14.5 tex的功能性吸湿发热混纺纱线和14.5 tex的铜离子混纺纱线编织里纱,结合平针衬垫组织,开发3种功能性针织牛仔面料。详细阐述面料开发的原料规格、设备参数、编织工艺、面料参数,并对面料的色牢度、吸湿发热升温功能、抑菌率等进行测试。结果表明,开发的功能性牛仔面料能促进皮肤血液循环,具有良好的抗菌性和色牢度,穿着舒适、品质较好,而且属于清洁生产,符合环保要求。     

功能性针织产品的开发

针对功能性针织产品的开发,从后整理角度,分析了吸湿排汗聚酯DTY（拉伸变形纱）纬编织物的吸湿排汗整理、涤纶经编起圈织物的阻燃整理、纬编涤锦复合超细纤维毛巾布的抗茵防臭整理、涤纶经编蚊帐织物的防蚊虫整理、涤纶经编天鹅绒织物的防紫外线整理、涤纶纬编装饰布的拒水拒油整理、涤纶纬编网眼织物的抗静电整理以及涤纶经编网眼织物的硬挺树脂整理．并逐一阐述了8种整理的工艺流程、具体工艺参数以及加工时的注意事项,尤其强调针对各类整理,结合面料,要注意选择DH值、加工温度、加工时间以及整理剂的用量,这样才能生产出符合要求的功能性针织整理产品。     

上浆前处理剂对经编用棉纱性能的影响

为改善棉纱的物理性能以适应经编高速生产,对棉纱经编织造前处理技术进行研究。选择3种不同粗细棉纱及靛蓝纱为研究对象,采用低温淀粉、低温聚乙烯醇、液蜡及白油为前处理剂,测试其对４ 种棉纱上浆率、断裂性能以及毛羽性能的影响,并借助扫描电子显微镜对前处理前后纱线表面进行观察。结果表明：低温聚乙烯醇以及液蜡可以改善棉纱的毛羽性能,并有利于提高其断裂强力及断裂伸长;低温淀粉可改善毛羽性能并提高断裂强力,但可降低纱线断裂伸长;白油会造成纱线强力及断裂伸长减小;而靛蓝纱因经靛蓝染色使表面性质改变,经前处理后纱线断裂性能与其他3 种棉纱有所差异。     

改性涤纶织物的凉爽性能研究

采用添加有热传导改性粉体矿物质颗粒的凉爽涤纶纤维、十字截面涤纶纤维及普通涤纶纤维为原料,设计试制了3种规格相同、纤维种类不同的机织物,并对凉爽涤纶织物、十字截面涤纶织物及普通涤纶织物的导热性、透湿性、导湿性及散湿性等凉爽舒适性能进行了比较研究。结果表明:凉爽涤纶织物的导热系数、最大瞬时热流量值均大于十字截面涤纶织物和普通涤纶织物,表现出优异的热传导性能;十字截面涤纶织物的吸湿排汗效果最佳,说明纤维物理形态结构仍然是改善织物吸湿、导湿性能的重要手段。     

仿针织牛仔面料的开发及性能评价

为获得兼具针织和机织牛仔面料优点的新型牛仔面料,从纱线的选择、织造、后整理等方面探讨了仿针织牛仔面料的开发。对比测试了仿针织牛仔面料、针织牛仔面料、纯棉机织牛仔面料等5 种面料的拉伸断裂强力、撕破强力、色牢度等指标,并利用川端织物风格评价系统对牛仔面料的拉伸、剪切、弯曲、压缩、表面摩擦5 项指标进 行织物风格综合分析。结果表明,采用精梳纯棉纱作为经纱,涤纶长丝氨纶包芯纱作为纬纱,选择复合右斜纹组织,经特殊后整理工艺后生产的仿针织牛仔面料经向拉伸断裂强力高达685 N,撕破强力达59 N,粗犷挺括,柔软舒适,弹性和保型性俱佳,克服了针织牛仔面料和机织牛仔面料的风格缺陷。     

Thermo-physiological comfort properties of double-face knitted fabrics made from different types of polyester yarns and cotton yarn

Double-face knitted fabrics with hydrophobic inner and hydrophilic outer layers are characterised by their advantageous thermo-physiological comfort property that facilitates the transport of sweat from skin to outer fabric layer where it can be evaporated easily. In this study, for the production of double-face knitted fabrics, cotton yarn as hydrophilic yarn type and five different polyester filament yarns consisting of standard polyester, hollow polyester, micro polyester, textured polyester and textured micro polyester as hydrophobic yarn type were used. In order to determine the thermo-physiological comfort properties of the fabrics, air permeability, water vapour permeability, thermal conductivity, thermal resistance and overall moisture management capacity were measured. The results were comparatively analysed using statistical methods. The experimental results demonstrated that the polyester-type yarns and the combinations of them with the cotton yarn in fabric layers affected the thermo-physiological comfort properties significantly. The fabrics with polyester-type inner face and cotton outer face showed the best moisture transmission properties.     

Investigation on permeability and moisture management properties of different denim fabrics after repeated laundering

The physiological comfort determined by air permeability and moisture management properties of fabrics is influenced by various constructional parameters of the fabric which give woven fabric a porous structure. Evaporation of sweat during wear has the potential to cool the body besides restricting the additional weight of sweat being absorbed by the fabric. In this study, comfort characteristics of denim fabrics with different weft yarn of cotton, polyester and core spun Lycra have been discussed. Effect of enzyme washing and repeated laundering on air permeability, moisture management and drying rate has also been discussed. It was observed that air permeability and water vapour permeability of unwashed denim fabrics with cotton weft yarn are significantly higher than the fabric with polyester and Lycra cotton weft yarns. The wetting time is higher for cotton and Lycra cotton yarn fabrics. One-way transport index is highest for Lycra cotton weft fabrics and lowest for fabrics with polyester weft. Fabrics with polyester weft yarns show highest spreading rate, spreading radius and drying rate due to better wicking and hydrophobic nature of polyester fibres.     

聚酯长丝/棉复合纱斜纹织物的保形性及服用性能

为研究聚酯(PET)长丝/棉复合纱斜纹织物的保形性及服用性能,利用PET长丝与纯棉纱开发了3种线密度为9.8 tex的纱线,并以二上二下斜纹组织织造了4种织物。对织物进行了折皱回复性、免烫性、尺寸稳定性、悬垂性等保形性能,强伸性、拉伸弹性、顶破性等抗变形性测试,以及手感风格、透湿性、透气性等服用性能测试。对比分析了纯棉纱织物与复合纱织物的保形性与服用性能。结果表明:PET长丝/棉复合纱可改善纯棉织物的折皱回复性、悬垂性,提高免烫等级,同时又不影响织物的服用性能;包芯纱织物比包缠纱织物有更好的保形性,更高的免烫等级,是免烫衬衫面料的理想选择。     

探析中国牛仔布与牛仔用纱的技术创新与发展动向

文章分析了牛仔布与牛仔服饰长盛不衰的原因以及随着人们对穿着服饰观念的变化,开发新型牛仔布及牛仔服饰的必要性。根据人们对穿着牛仔服饰要求时尚化、舒适化及健康卫生的诉求,促进生产企业加快新型牛仔布及牛仔用纱的开发步伐,先后开发出弹力牛仔布、功能性牛仔布、轻薄型牛仔布、针织牛仔布及仿针织牛仔布等新品种,改变了传统牛仔布使用原料单一(棉花)、织物厚重(粗支纱生产)及色泽单调(靛蓝色)的格局。文章还对新型牛仔布与牛仔用纱在开发生产过程中所采用的相关工艺技术措施作了简要分析,使开发的牛仔布及牛仔用纱符合生产高端牛仔服饰的要求。     

机织针织复合织物与多层双轴向纬编织物拉伸性能对比

选用玻璃纤维作经纱、纬纱和高强涤纶作针织纱分别编织机织针织复合(CWK)织物和多层双轴向纬编(MBWK)织物,测试两种织物的横向、纵向的拉伸性能,分析比较拉伸负荷和位移特征曲线。研究表明：在拉伸过程中,CWK织物MBWK织物均先由其中的经纱或纬纱,在较低的伸长下,承担较高的负荷,直至经纱或纬纱断裂,然后由针织结构,在较高的伸长下,承担较低的负荷,直至针织结构破坏;经纱和纬纱以交织形式衬入针织结构中,使得CWK织物的轴向的拉伸强度稍低于MBWK织物,但起到一定的“预牵伸”作用,可使针织纱对经纱和纬纱捆绑效果更好。     

Elastic Recovery and Performance of Denim Fabric Prepared by Cotton/Lycra Core Spun Yarns

ABSTRACT

Elastic performance coefficient (EPC) and recovery behavior of denim fabrics prepared with cotton/lycra core spun stretch yarns have been presented in this article. The denim fabrics are woven as broken twill weaves in an air-jet weaving machine by the insertion of core spun yarns (lycra filament in core, cotton fiber on sheath) as weft and using 100% cotton yarns as warp. The effect of linear density and stretch percentage of the core spun weft yarns on tensile and recovery behavior of denim fabric have been investigated by employing full factorial design of experiments. It has been observed that the tensile strength and EPC of fabric increase with decrease in linear density and stretch percentage of the core spun stretch yarn. The immediate elastic recovery and delayed elastic recovery increase with decrease in linear density and stretch percentage of the yarns.     

Analysis of mechanical and dimensional properties of the denim fabrics produced with double-core and core-spun weft yarns with different weft densities

Elastic structures are preferred for improving the elasticity and recovery properties of denim fabrics. With the intention of improving comfort during body movements in denim jeans, 10–35% elasticity is required. In this study, the effect of the composition of double-core (dual-core) and core-spun weft yarns and weft density on the mechanical properties of denim fabrics was investigated. For this purpose, different core materials were used in the production of elastic yarns. The sheath material was cotton for all yarn types. Yarn samples were spun with the same yarn count and twist coefficient. 100% cotton Ne 8/1 Ring slub warp yarns were used as warp yarn while double-core and core-spun yarns were used as weft yarns in weaving. The weaving process was performed with three different weft density values (16, 22, and 28 weft /cm) and the other production parameters were kept constant. Twill 3/1 woven fabrics were treated according to standard denim finishing procedures. After domestic washing processes, mechanical properties of the samples were tested and statistically evaluated.     

蜂窝微孔改性涤纶针织物服用性能测试与分析

使用蜂窝微孔改性涤纶纱、莫代尔纱、天丝A100纱及棉纱开发了3种针织物,分别测试它们的顶破性能、抗起球性能、悬垂性能、毛细管效应、导湿性能、透湿性能和透气性能。测试结果表明:蜂窝微孔改性涤纶针织物具有优异的抗起球性能、透湿性能和透气性能;顶破强力、悬垂性能、毛细芯吸高度和导湿性能介于改性涤纶与棉合股编织织物,改性涤纶与莫代尔、天丝A100纱合股编织织物之间。     

机织面料吸湿快干梯度结构的构建

采用吸湿快干纤维Coolking及莫代尔、棉和涤纶纤维进行纱线设计,构建了机织面料吸湿快干梯度结构模型,通过疏水性纤维和亲水性纤维的合理配置,变化表里经纱的密度比,利用机织多层结构研制了6种具有导湿快干功能的机织面料。分别测试了这6种面料的毛细高度、保水率、水滴渗透面积和体积、自然干燥率、透气量,采用多项综合值对吸湿快干效果加以评定。结果表明,表里经纱密度比为1∶2的结构在吸湿快干性能上要优于表里经纱比为1∶1的结构,里层纱线由莫代尔/涤纶、Coolking/棉构成的配置吸湿快干性能较好,莫代尔/棉、Coolking/棉的配置其次,莫代尔/涤纶和莫代尔/棉的配置较差。