No. 4Vol. 42, No. 2, pp. 102–109, 2008A novel water-based sunscreen gel using a polymer – zinc oxide composite

Conventional sunscreen products generally must strike a compromise between efficacy and product feel; the hydrophobic ingredients that provide the sun protection generally impart an unpleasant, greasy feel and the greater the SPF rating, the worse the greasy feel. We tested an idea that a water-based sunscreen gel formulation containing inorganic UV absorbers would provide an effective way to address these problems. Our goal was to find a way to disperse inorganic sunscreen materials in water and to incorporate them into a water-based gel which would provide a more pleasant product feel. After extensive research we discovered a polymer-zinc oxide composite (P-ZnO) with high UV protective effect and high dispersibility in water. In dried powdered form, P-ZnO can be easily dispersed in water. P-ZnO makes it possible to formulate a gel-type sunscreen, which is not possible using commercially available inorganic powders. The composite size of P-ZnO is about 500 nm and its structure consists of a dense aggregate of nano-ZnO having a size distribution in the 5–10 nm range and amorphous layers of poly acrylic acid coating zinc oxide to control the particle growth, block surface activity and prevent aggregation. The water-based P-ZnO sunscreen gel offers UV protection comparable to conventional products in a delivery vehicle that is much more pleasant to use.     

No. 4Vol. 42, No. 4, pp. 305–312, 2008The Reaction of Oxidative Hair Dyes in Cuticle Layers

The mechanism of oxidative hair dyes (permanent hair color) in cuticle layers of human hair was studied. In general, it is considered that the oxidative hair dye deposits monomer into the cortex, and is polymerized with coloring in there. It was confirmed that not only cortex but also cuticle layers were dyed with the permanent hair color, through observation with the thin cross-section of the dyed hair. There were exogenous metals in the cuticle layers from tap water etc., and the transition metals increased the dyeing and decreased the bleaching. It was thought that the activity of oxidation reaction with hydrogen peroxide was increased in the cuticle layers, and permeability to the cortex was decreased. Furthermore, TEM findings suggested that the oxidation hair dyes mainly reacted in the β-layer/ δ-layer interface in the cuticle layers, unevenly distributing the metals in the β-layer of cuticular CMC.
Keywords:  hair, oxidative hair dye, hair color, bleach, cuticle, transition metal, ultrastructure, CMC, β-layer, oxidative reaction     

No. 3 Vol. 42, No. 3, pp. 218–225, 2008 Optimizing performance of makeup products by controlling surface free energy

As a popular method for longwearing lipsticks, self-organizing polymers [e.g. glyceryl ether modified dimethicone (GE)], which can form a gel with a small amount of water are used. However, these polymers have the defect that they tend to inhibit the dispersibility of pigments, especially in a lipstick containing a large amount of liquid isoparaffin that has high moisturizing properties. In this study, the compatibility of the longwearing property and the high dispersibility of pigments in isoparaffin-rich lipstick has been investigated. The introduction of alkyl chain moieties to the GE structure markedly improved the pigment dispersibility. However, random copolymerization type structure inhibited the longwearing properties. On the other hand, the introduction of an alkyl chain to the both ends of GE did not affect the longwearing properties. For further improvement of the pigment dispersibility, fine silica particles were investigated as a dispersant. The compatibility of longwearing properties and good dispersibility of pigments was achieved with silica particles. TEM observation and ¹H-NMR measurement revealed that GE was absorbed on silica particles and the silica formed a network in the lipstick composition. We assume that this organic-inorganic hybrid aggregate has no adverse effect on the properties of pigments in the lipstick, hence no flocculation of pigments occurs.
Keywords:  longwearing lipstick, polymer, pigment, dispersibility, fine particle silica, glyceryl ether modified dimethicone, moisturizing properties, organic-inorganic hybrid aggregate, alkyl chain     

No. 2 Vol. 42, No. 3, pp. 201–217, 2008 Enhancing facial beauty: diminishing tension-caused forehead wrinkles through upper back massage

A number of papers have been published on the oxidation coupling reactions of the active intermediate of a dye precursor with an electron-rich dye coupler. At the present stage, however, little information is available about the oxidative reaction mechanism to colored oxidation products and the dye distribution inside the keratin fibers. From the results of dyeing in the presence of both reducing agent and chelate agent, we found that the coupling reaction developing oxidation dyes occurred on the outer surface in the cuticle cell phase, and that not only the cell membrane complex (CMC) regions play an important role as accumulation regions of the finished dye, but also the components of CMC contribute directly to the oxidation coupling reactions. Furthermore, we suggested from the other results that the metal ions and disulphide bond presented primarily within the intercellular materials play an important role in developing the colored oxidation dye. Then, on the basis of the general scheme of the oxidation dye process, we proposed a tentative mechanistic scheme of oxidative dyeing to account for the oxidation dying phenomenon of keratin fibers. The scheme is made up of four step-reactions.
Keywords:  oxidation dye, oxidative dyeing, precursor, coupler, active intermediate, keratin fiber, chelate agent, cell membrane complex, intercellular materials, metal ion, disulphide bond     

No. 6Vol. 42, No. 2, pp. 121–127, 2008Makeup inhibits reduction of reactive oxygen scavenging enzyme activity induced by mental stress

Recent studies showed that makeup reduces mental stress, indicated by not only psychological but also physiological values. In this study, we examined the relationship between mental stress and the activity of reactive oxygen scavenging enzymes such as superoxide dismutase (SOD) and catalase (CAT), and the effect of the mental stress reduction by makeup on the activity of reactive oxygen scavenging enzymes. In experiment 1, we measured the concentration of cortisol and activity of SOD in saliva after the addition of mental stress. In this result, the concentration of cortisol increased and the activity of SOD decreased significantly. As we examined the effect of makeup following the mental stress addition in experiment 2, the concentration of cortisol decreased and the activity of SOD and CAT increased. Moreover, we showed a decrease in the anxiety state and increase in spiritual health as the psychological effects. Those results suggest that makeup psychologically canceled anxiety and physiologically inhibited the reduction of reactive oxygen scavenging enzyme activity induced by the mental stress.     

No. 2Vol. 42, No. 4, pp. 289–296, 2008An influence of cosmetic formula on thermal characteristics and its relationship with the sensation of freshness during application

Polyglycerol fatty acid esters (PGFE) , a food grade emulsifier has been used in cosmetic products in recent years due to its safety and low stimulation of skin. Cosmetic formulation containing CoQ1O to provide a stable and clear pre-paration is difficult because it has a high crystalline property. We have tried the development of CoQ10-soluble pre-paration with PGFE applied for cosmetics. The present study is summarized as follows: This CoQ10-soluble pre-paration has a bicontinuous microemulsion structure that provides high solubilization capacity and thermodynamic stability. Cosmetics using this CoQ1O soluble pre-paration tend to improve the skin permeability and also to involve the change in skin conditions (moisturization and elasticity), compared to the non-bicontinuous microemulsion pre-paration.
Keywords:  coenzyme Q10, solubilization, bicontinuous, microemulsion, polyglycerol fatty acid ester, cosmetics, food, emulsifier, safety, low stimulation, skin, moisturization, elasticity     

No. 5 Vol. 42, No. 3, pp. 231-236, 2008 Establishment of ex vivo stratum corneum lipid ordering analysis by electron spin resonance

Electron spin resonance (ESR) spectra have been used for studying stratum corneum (SC) lipid ordering. Order parameter S obtained from ESR spectra is a good index for evaluating the fluidity of SC lipids in vitro . However, the method for evaluation of ex vivo SC lipids has not been established. A glass plate using a cyanoacrylate resin was used to strip the SC lipids. A single-chain aliphatic spin probe, 5-Doxylstearic acid (5-DSA), was used. The SC samples were incubated in the 0.001% 5-DSA in a 0.1% ethanolic aqueous solution for 60 min at 37°C. After the incubation, the excess spin probe was removed with distilled water, and then an ESR glass holder with the incubated SC sample was mounted in the ESR cavity. The newly designed ESR glass holder improved accuracy and reproducibility of sample preparations as well as ESR measurements. In conclusion, we have optimized the preparation method of ex vivo SC specimen and established accurate ex vivo ESR analyses of SC lipid ordering.
Keywords:  stratum corneum, lipid ordering, electron spin resonance, ESR, 5-Doxylstearic acid, 5-DSA, order parameter, SC, spin probe     

No. 5Vol. 42, No. 2, pp. 110–120, 2008Design and development of an innovative hybrid powder based on a computer simulation and its application to base make up products

An innovative hybrid powder prepared through computer simulation allowed a new foundation to be developed having a fine, smooth texture that has never been achieved before. The optical structure/design of the powder was based on the results of measurements and analyses conductedon the optical characteristics of a baby's fine skin that is the envy of many women. In order to achieve the optimal optical characteristics, the Finite Differential Time Domain (FDTD) method to solve Maxwell's differential equation by difference and time domain was applied to the computer simulation method. For the synthesis of the hybrid powder based on the optical model, a proprietary shape regulation coating technology was used, in which flaky substrates were coated with micro-spherical forms of barium sulfate crystals. The developed hybrid powder exhibited optical characteristics that showed a significant diffusion characteristic in the visible light region. The foundation containing this powder could conceal pores, fine wrinkles, freckles, and spots, and provided a fine, smooth texture owing to its microscopic reflection characteristics that has never been available from a conventional foundation.     

No. 3Vol. 42, No. 2, pp. 94–101, 2008Effect of Birch (Betula platyphylla Sukatchev var. japonica Hara) sap on cultured human epidermal keratinocyte differentiation

The beauty of ideal skin texture is closely associated with dermal moisture factors. The key factors of skin moisture are NMF (natural moisturizing factor) and skin normal barrier function. The former keeps dermal surface moisture, and the later protects from excess water loss. So we have searched for the ingredient that improves these factors. Birch sap has been widely used as an effective drink for anti-fatigue and anti-stress. However, the effect of birch sap on skin as a cosmetic agent has not been known entirely. In this study, we investigated the effects of birch ( Betula platyphylla Sukatchev var. japonica Hara) sap on human skin. Birch sap induced epidermal keratinocyte differentiation properties in vitro . We assessed two epidermal differentiation agents. Filaggrin is a precursor protein of NMF, and involucrin is one of the precursor proteins of the cornified cell envelope (CE), which is related to normal barrier function. We have evaluated the production of these proteins where birch sap was applied to human normal keratinocytes. Birch sap not only increased mRNA expression of filaggrin and involucrin, but also accelerated these proteins production. Otherwise, birch sap did not have any influence for IL-6 production, which is related to inflammatory and aberrant keratinocyte proliferation. The results of induced differentiation properties on birch sap-treated keratinocytes are very similar to the differentiation induced by calcium in vitro . This similarity suggested that birch sap has a differentiation inducible property on in vitro cultured keratinocytes. Our study suggested that birch sap is able to control both moisturizing- and barrier-related factor production. From these effects, birch sap provides appropriate epidermal functions and skin homeostasis, and revealed itself as a very useful ingredient in the cosmetic field.     

Vol. 42, No. 1, pp.30-35, 2008A high-speed mixer enabling particle design

When fluid is mixed by a rotor and small vessel that has a narrow clearance between its wall and the rotor with the upper part covered by an endplate, the processing fluid becomes a high-speed thin-film spin flow. This flow possibly allows the peripheral speed to be over 30 m/s, which was unable to be obtained by a conventional high-speed mixer. As a result, the processing fluid obtains more and homogenous energy. In an actual experiment, we compared a high-speed thin-film spin mixer with a conventional high-speed mixer upon an emulsification experiment with soybean oil. The experiment proved that the former mixer could control the particle size distribution. It also proved that the same result could be obtained by continuous operation as by batch operation. In conclusion, the high-speed thin-film spin mixer can control particle size distribution with a high efficiency.
Keywords: thin-film spin, fluid, mixer, particle size distribution, emulsification, continuous processing, batch operation     

No. 1Vol. 42, No. 2, pp. 81–88, 2008Noninvasive three-dimensional analysis of in vivo human skin using the next-generation optical coherence tomography (OCT), Fourier domain OCT

Recently, many Japanese females have turned their attention to dilated pores. In our clinic, the number of female patients with complaints of dilated pores have increased. For these patients, we have shown the way of skin care firstly. Then, we have selected laser and IPL (intense pulsed light) therapies. In this paper, I introduce treatments of dilated pores in the ladies clinic of the Dermatology Department in Kinki University Hospital.     

Vol. 42, No. 1, pp.1-6, 2008Overview of cosmetic dermatological approach for photoaging

In this study, a hydrophobic phospholipid polymer nano-dispersion was formed by self-aggregating poly(2-methacryloyloxyethyl phosphorylcholine-co-stearyl methacrylate) (PMS). Self-aggregation was carried out by diluting a PMS/polyol solution with hot water. The zeta potential of the PMS particles was changed by complexation with anionic or cationic surfactants, the addition of which did not affect the average diameter of the PMS particles, which was always less than 50 nm. The cationized PMS nano-dispersion was used for treating artificially damaged hair. An X-ray photoelectron spectroscopic analysis showed uniform adsorption of the PMS onto the surface of the hair specimens. The PMS nano-dispersion was not only adsorbed on the surface but also permeated into the hair, as shown by a fluorescence microscopic observation of the damaged hair treated with the PMS nano-dispersion that also contained Nile Red. From a scanning electron microscope observation, the PMS was also found to suppress the lift-ups of the hair cuticle. The surface of damaged hair was hydrophilic, whereas the one treated with PMS was hydrophobic, like healthy hair. PMS treatment has decreased the surface friction and electrostatic decay of damaged hair, and also prevented the discoloration of colored hair.
Keywords: 2-methacryloyloxyethyl phosphorylcholine, phospholipid polymer, intercellular lipid, nano-dispersion, self-aggregation, zeta potential, damaged hair, surface friction, electrostatic decay, discoloration     

J. Cosmet. Sci., 59, 117–125 (March/April 2008)A dual mechanism of 4-hydroxy-5-methyl-3[2H]-furanone inhibiting cellular melanogenesis

The aim of this study was to investigate the effect of some cellulose polymers mixed in a semipermanent dyestuff on the dye uptake of yak hair fiber and color fading after repeated washing cycles. Two different classes of commercial polymers were tested: non-ionic and cationic. Formulations based on a mixture of HC and basic dyes, with different molecular sizes, were employed as representative dyestuffs. UV-Vis spectroscopy and colorimetric measurements were used to analyze the extracted dyes from the yak hair cuticle and cortex. The results obtained indicate that the presence of cationic polymers in the dye bath improves both the quality of the dyeing process and the anti-fading effect during the first washing cycles.     

Vol. 42, No. 1, pp.16-21, 2008Decrease in the skin transparency induced by protein carbonylation in the stratum corneum

It has been reported in recent years that the carbonyl modification of protein plays a part in various diseases. The existence of the protein carbonylation in the stratum corneum also came to be known in the last few years, but the effect on the properties of the stratum corneum including the skin appearance was not clarified. In this study, we examined the influence of protein carbonylation in the stratum corneum to provide helpful information for skin care products focusing on transparency of the stratum corneum. Firstly, we developed a method to assess the protein carbonylation level numerically by the image analysis of tape-stripped stratum corneum reacted with a fluorescent hydrazide. The level of stratum corneum carbonylation of the sun-exposed site (face) was higher than that of unexposed site (upper arm), and the surface part of the stratum corneum showed a higher level of carbonylation compared with the deeper layer. Stratum corneum carbonylation was induced by in vitro UV irradiation. In addition, it was shown that the skin transparency score was significantly low in the woman with high level of protein carbonylation in the stratum corneum of the cheek. An experimentally carbonylated stratum corneum sheet in vitro became opaque. Among the amino acids investigated, L-lysine was the most effective to prevent carbonylation of the stratum corneum ex vivo . Moreover, L-lysine inhibited the decrease in the skin transparency caused by experimental carbonylation of the stratum corneum in the human skin. These results suggest that preventing the carbonylation of the stratum corneum due to adverse effects from the environment by l-lysine could improve the skin transparency.
Keywords: stratum corneum, protein carbonylation, appearance, skin transparency, l-lysine, amino acids, fluorescent hydrazide, tape-stripping     

Vol. 42, No. 1, pp.22-29, 2008White blood cell fractions, oxidation index and level of stress in acne patients and healthy volunteers

In recent years, a lot of people have suffered physical and mental stress. It makes sympathetic nerves dominant, and autonomic nerves unbalanced. Disruption of the balance in autonomic nerves leads to the increase of granulocyte, and causes various undesirable physical conditions. We investigated the relationship between stress and acne in order to confirm the influence of stress on skin conditions. The degree of subjective stress, and the ratio of neutrophils or lymphocytes in leukocytes were measured in acne patients and healthy volunteers. As it is suggested that the increase of the neutrophil ratio by stress makes reactive oxygen, and raises the degree of oxidation in the blood, we also measured the antioxidant action and the degree of oxidative stress by FRAS4. Additionally, the lifestyle characteristics in each group was investigated in order to confirm the relationship with stress by a questionnaire survey. According to the results of the questionnaire survey, acne patients find themselves readily suffering from acne anytime. Compared with healthy volunteers, acne patients have more undesirable lifestyles and higher stress degrees than healthy volunteers. Further, the Biological Antioxidant Potential (BAP), an antioxidant index measured in acne patients, was significantly lower ( P  < 0.0001) than that of healthy volunteers. The acne patients had a higher ratio of neutrophils and a lower ratio of lymphocytes compared to the healthy volunteers. Among the acne patients, the neutrophil ratio was higher in those with high stress ( P  < 0.05). These results suggest that acne patients easily feel higher stress against various loads, and the stress leads to the increase in the neutrophil ratio and the oxidation degree, which exacerbates the acne lesions.
Keywords: acne, stress, autonomic nerve, sympathetic nerve, white blood cell, neutrophil, lymphocyte, oxidation, life style, skin     

J. Cosmet. Sci., 59, 15–32 (January/February 2008)A simple analysis of the changes during evaporation of a commercial emulsion of unknown composition

Dead Sea mud and salts are known for their therapeutic and cosmetic properties. The presence of Dead Sea (DS) salts in different types of cosmetics has affected the stability and the flow properties of the finished products. In this study, an attempt was made to find the optimum Dead Sea salt content in a cosmetic emulsion (model of body cream) using both rheology and stability measurements. The rheological properties were tested during a four-month storage period at three different storage temperatures: 8°C, room temperature, and 45°C. In addition to rheological measurements and centrifuge tests, the conductivities of the emulsion samples were also determined. The centrifuge tests showed that the cream samples containing more than 0.25 wt% of DS salt showed phase separation. The addition of DS salt to the cosmetic emulsion led to two maxima in the emulsion viscosity at salt contents of 0.07 wt% and 0.15 wt%. However, the emulsion samples containing 0.15% of DS salt was considered the optimum sample since it contained the maximum amount of salt and exhibited the maximum viscosity at all tested conditions. It was found that the viscosity of the emulsion is increased with storage time and storage temperature. This behavior was accompanied by a decrease in conductivity. This behavior was explained by water evaporation from the emulsion. However, it has been shown that the presence of DS salt in the cosmetic emulsion significantly reduces the rate of water evaporation. The conductivity measurements reflect the rate of water evaporation, and the presence of DS salt reduces the rate of conductivity. Conductivity is observed to decrease with storage time and temperature.     

J. Cosmet. Sci., 59, 399–418 (September/October 2008)A study of the chemical composition of traditional eye cosmetics ('kohls') used in Qatar and Yemen

This study looks at the chemical composition of traditional eye cosmetics ('kohls') used in Qatar and Yemen. Of especial interest was how many samples in each country contain the toxic element lead. In Qatar 19 observably different kohl samples were obtained, and in Yemen ten such samples obtained. The analytical techniques of scanning electron microscopy (SEM) and X-ray powder diffraction (XRPD) were used to study the samples. For the samples from Qatar, six of the 19 (32%) contained galena (lead sulfide, PbS)—all as the main component. However, for the samples from Yemen, five of the ten (50%) samples contained galena as the main component, with another three having it present as a minor component. Overall, the other main components were found to be: amorphous carbon (3), iron oxides (hematite, Fe2O3; and goethite, FeO(OH)) (1), quartz (SiO2) (1), sassolite (H3BO3) (5), talc (Mg3Si4O10(OH)2) (1), and zincite (ZnO) (7).     

J. Cosmet. Sci., 59, 195–202 (May/June 2008) The effects of placental extract on fibroblast proliferation

Human placental extract is used in the treatment of skin wrinkles and wounds. To date, no studies have evaluated the effects of placental extract on dermal fibroblast proliferation. To investigate the effects of placental extract vs. ascorbic acid on fibroblast proliferation and transforming growth factor (TGF)-β1 expression, cultured human fibroblasts were treated with placental extract (0%, 0.08%, 0.16%, 0.32%, and 0.64%) or L -ascorbic acid-2-phosphate magnesium (0, 0.01, 0.1, 1.0, and 10 mmol L^-1). Fibroblast proliferation was determined by MTT assay, and TGF-β1 protein expression was analyzed by ELISA. The proliferation of fibroblasts increased significantly after treatment with placental extract at concentrations of 0.32% and 0.64% and with L -ascorbic acid-2-phosphate magnesium at concentrations of 1.0 and 10 mmol L^-1. Placental extract demonstrated no significant effects on TGF-β1 expression; however, TGF-β1 expression significantly increased after treatment with ascorbic acid at concentrations of 1.0 and 10 mmol L^-1. Placental extract and ascorbic acid had similar effects on fibroblast proliferation; however, placental extract did not significantly increase TGF-β1 protein expression.     

J. Cosmet. Sci., 59, 441–448 (September/October 2008)Simultaneous determination of heavy metals in cosmetic products

An extremely small amount of several heavy metals have been detected in cosmetic products as impurities, which can cause skin allergies through percutaneous adsorption on the skin. We present here a fast, accurate, and highly sensitive method for simultaneous determination of Pb²⁺, Fe²⁺, Cu²⁺, Ni²⁺, Zn²⁺, Co²⁺, Cd²⁺ and Mn²⁺ in coloring agents and cosmetic products, to be evaluated by ion chromatography. All of these metals are well separated through a bifunctional ion-exchange column (IonPac CS5A) and detected by post-column reaction and spectrophotometric detection. The calibration graphs are linear ( r ² > 0.999), in the range 0.1–1000 μg ml^-1. Detection limits for a 200-μl sample solution are at the μg L^-1 level, which is sufficient for judging whether the product is safe or not. The relative standard deviations (RSDs) of the retention time and the peak area are less than 0.21 and 1.24%, respectively. The recovery rates are 97–104%. The result shows that the proposed determination method is more sensitive, more accurate, and faster than current methods such as HPLC, ICP-MS and Flame-AAS. The new method was applied to analyse the amount of heavy metals contained in 22 cosmetic products and 11 coloring agents.     

J. Cosmet. Sci., 59, 151–156 (March/April 2008)Comparison of hair shaft damage after UVA and UVB irradiation

Sunlight, especially ultraviolet (UV) light-induced hair damage is difficult to avoid during daily life. Concerns about the effects of ultraviolet light on hair are emerging recently. These photochemical changes mainly come from damage to hair proteins and melanins. In this study, we performed experiments to find the patterns of morphological and biochemical changes in UV-light-induced damage to hair by scanning and transmission electron microscopy and hair protein analysis. In our results, morphological damage is significant in UVB-irradiated hairs, while biochemical changes are greater in UVA-irradiated hairs.
J. Cosmet. Sci., 59 , 157–158 (March/April 2008)
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists Japan
Vol. 41, No. 4, 2007 *
J. Cosmet. Sci., 59 , 159–161 (March/April 2008)
International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Vol. 29 , No 6, 2007 *
J. Cosmet. Sci., 59 , 163–164 (March/April 2008)
IFSCC Magazine
Vol. 10, No. 4, 2007 *
J. Cosmet. Sci., 59 , 165–166 (March/April 2008)
Journal of the Polish Society of Cosmetic Science
"Wiadomos´ci PTK"
Vol. 10, No. 4, 2007 *
J. Cosmet. Sci., 59 , 167–194 (March/April 2008)
Papers Presented at the 2007 Annual Scientific Meeting and Technology Showcase
(Friday's Program)
December 6–7, 2007
New York Hilton
New York, NY