AN EXPERIMENTAL STUDY ON VERTICAL HYDRODYNAMIC FORCE ON A CIRCULAR SLAB NEAR FREE SURFACE BY WATER WAVES

NOMENCLATUTE d—— water depth D—— diameter of slab Fz—— vertical force on slab Fzu1/3——upward force Fzd1/3——downward force g——acceleration due to gravity H——wave height for regular wave Hs——significant wave height for random wave L——wave     

DISSIPATION OF WAVE ENERGY ON VERY MILD SLOPE

1.　INTRODUCTIONOffshoreareasarewherepeoplefrequentlyengagevariouskindsofhumanactivities,forexamples,portbuilding.seawallconstruction,installationofoildrillingplatformandseashorepowerstation,etc.Whenstructuresplacedinshallowwateraredesigned,thedesignwaveheightalwaystakesthecriticalwaveheight-breakingwaveheight.ThecriticalwaveheightadoptedinChineseCodeisdeterminedbyGoda′smethod,whichiswidelyusedinmanycountries.Thismethodisbasedonthestudyofregularwavesonbottomslopei≥1/50.Themaximumwavehe…     

Experimental Study of Sediment Transport in Meandering Channels

Sediment transport in a meandering channel is measured in a laboratory flume. The measurements are evaluated and compared with previous studies. The values of the calculated sediment transport rates using previous formulas are generally overestimated. Under these circumstances, in this research, it is noticed that the sediment transport rates as measured in the laboratory, and sediment transport capacities computed with the Einstein’s approach, behave in a quite similar way, seemingly closely related to the varying bottom shear velocity or stress. Einstein’s approach for bed load comparison is chosen in this experimental research because it has been tested to some extent.     

Impacts of wind waves on sediment transport in a large,shallow lake

Lake Okeechobee is a large, shallow subtropical lake, located in south Florida. Over the last several decades, Lake Okeechobee has experienced accelerated eutrophication due to excessive phosphorus loads from agricultural run‐off. Recycling of phosphorus from bottom sediments through resuspension is critical to addressing eutrophication of the lake and for water quality management. The present study investigates the impacts of wind waves on sediment transport in Lake Okeechobee, using measured data and the Lake Okeechobee Environmental Model (LOEM). The LOEM was fully calibrated and verified with more than 10 years of measured data in previous studies. Analysis of the measured data indicates significant wave height (SWH) and suspended sediment concentration are closely correlated to the wind speed in the lake. The nonlinear interaction of high‐frequency wind waves with relatively low‐frequency currents in the boundary layer plays a key role in sediment deposition/resuspension. Without considering the effects of wind waves, the bottom shear stress can be greatly underestimated. The spatial variations of key variables for sediment modelling, including SWH, water depth, orbital velocity, current velocity, bottom shear stress and sediment concentration, are discussed. In general, the near‐bottom wave velocity (and the associated bottom shear stress) is greater than or the same order of magnitude as the near‐bed current velocity (and the associated bottom shear stress) in this shallow water system. Although the sediment zones of Lake Okeechobee were described in previous studies, few published papers discussed its formation mechanisms. The findings of the present study include that the multiyear averaged bottom shear stress with wind‐wave effect plays a key role in forming the spatial patterns of the sediment zones. The study results are currently being used in lake management and in developing strategies for reducing phosphorus in the lake.     

波浪作用下软泥床面的粘性泥沙悬扬

本文考虑波浪与软泥床面相互作用，建立了计算软泥床面上波浪剪应力的理论模型.计算结果表明，床面运动对波浪床面剪应力的影响很大.对波浪作用下粘性泥沙悬扬进行了实验研究，得到了不同密度泥床粘性泥沙悬扬的临界剪切力与泥沙流变参数的关系，并与水流作用下粘性泥沙悬扬的结果进行了比较。     

INTERACTION BETWEEN WAVES,STRUCTURES AND SAND BEDS

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BOTTOM SHEAR STRESS UNDER WAVE-CURRENT INTERACTION

The present work adopts the COHERENS-SWAN model developed by the first author through coupling three-dimensional hydrodynamic model （COHERENS） and third-generation wave model （SWAN）. Inside the COHERENS-SWAN, the SWAN is regarded as a subroutine and the time- and space-varying current velocity and surface elevation are obtained from the COHERENS. Wave-enhanced bottom shear stress, wave induced surface mixing length and wave dependent surface drag coefficient have been introduced into the COHERENS. Secondly, as wave-enhanced bottom shear stress （＂bottom shear stress＂ described as BSS sometimes in this article） is concerned, a modified bottom shear stress Grant and Madsen model which introduces random wave field is given and introduced to COHERENS-SWAN. COHERENS-SWAN is also adopted to simulate three-dimensional flow in the Yellow River Delta with wave-current co-existing. Four numerical experiments were given to study the effects of wave-current interaction on enhancing bottom shear stress. The simulated current velocities, wave height and wave period match well with field measurement data. The simulated significant wave height and wave period for the case with considering the effects of current can give better agreement with measurement data than the case without involving the effects of current. The introduction of random wave generates lower the bottom shear stress than the case without introducing it. There are obvious differences between bottom shear stress of two way interaction and one way interaction. Velocity field obtained by the COHERENS-SWAN is reasonable according to previous studies and measurements.     

随机波浪边界层的数值模拟与分析

该文基于雷诺平均的Navier-Stokes方程和k-ω两方程紊流模型建立了随机波浪边界层数学模型,模拟了粗糙底床上方的随机波浪边界层流速、床面剪切应力和紊动能量分布,计算结果与实测数据吻合良好。探讨了随机波浪边界层水动力特性,发现随机波浪时间序列中各个子波的紊动能量近似随该子波均方根自由振荡速度平方的增大而线性增大,但各个子波的紊动能量还受到上一个子波紊动能量传递的影响,体现了随机波浪与规则波浪的区别。整个随机波浪时间序列的有效摩阻系数和单个子波的摩阻系数均与前人实验数据和经验公式较为一致。     

非均匀沙起动条件探讨

在考虑水流条件、床沙组成的基础上,通过对泥沙颗粒受力分析。建立了滚动平衡方程式,得出了非均匀沙 分级起动切应力公式。在建立公式的过程中考虑了床沙非均匀性的影响。定义了附加作用力G,并将其引入公式中。 通过实验数据的验证表明公式的计算结果与实验数据符合良好。     

破碎波作用下床面形态研究及泥沙受力分析

破碎带水体强烈紊动对床面形态影响甚大,基于波浪水槽试验对沙质斜坡上破碎带床面形态以及泥沙受力进行研究。分析床面形态发现,同一断面处沙纹沙坝的形态与波浪形态基本一致,波高和周期决定沙纹沙坝的尺寸,波高越大,沙纹沙坝越高;周期越长,沙纹沙坝越长。通过对波浪破碎区的近底流速及砂床内孔隙水压力进行测量,将计算得到的表层上举力与超静孔隙水压力进行对比分析,发现其上举力与床面超静孔隙水压力大小相同。同时观察波浪破碎带床面高程,进一步研究上举力与超静孔隙水压力与床面高程的关系,发现表层上举力随着床面高程增加而变大,随着床面高程的降低而减小,而超静孔隙水压力与床面高程之间的关系则相反。     

不规则破碎波作用下堤前沙质海床冲刷形态研究

针对实际海湾是随机的情况。本文首次研究了不规则破碎波作用下直立堤前沙质海床的冲刷。通过水槽试验，揭示了不同水溶，不同波谱，不同粒径和不同海床坡订情况下堤前沙质海床的冲淤形态。     

DEFORMATION AND BREAKINC OF NONLINEAR WAVE IN WATER OF GRADUALLY VARYING DEPTH

Based upon the perturbation method,this paper used the method of conformalmapping to solve the deformation and breaking of nonlinear waves in water of gradually varyingdepth.The wave characteristics,such as wave deformation,velocity field,breaker type andbreaker height are discussed by the third order approximation.Results obtained are comparedwith experimental data.     

Evaluation of the Logarithmic Law of the Wall for River Flows

The logarithmic law of the wall is commonly used to determine the shear stress applied to the river bed by the flow field. The shear stress calculation requires a velocity profile at the location of interest—data that can be obtained with a boat‐mounted acoustic Doppler current profiler (ADCP). ADCP survey procedures use either a fixed‐vessel (FV) or moving‐vessel (MV) with each providing different spatial and temporal resolution. MV procedures require significantly less field effort but the data lack the temporal resolution of FV measurements. This fact has motivated investigators to seek MV procedures and analysis techniques that provide equivalent results to FV measurements. This study compares results of the two survey procedures for depth‐averaged quantities (velocity and flow direction), mean velocity profiles, shear velocity and equivalent sand grain roughness. Mean velocity profiles are produced by time averaging for the FV measurements and spatial averaging for the MV measurements. Shear velocity and equivalent sand grain roughness are determined using simple linear regression applied to the logarithmic law of the wall. These procedures are demonstrated using data obtained during bankfull flow on the lower Roanoke River, North Carolina, USA. The results indicate comparable estimates of depth‐averaged quantities from both survey procedures. Estimates of the mean velocity profiles were found to be more variable. The agreement for shear velocity and equivalent sand grain roughness was generally poor indicating that further work is necessary to produce comparable results with MV survey procedures. Copyright © 2015 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

不规则波辐射应力的精确解与近似解

波浪辐射应力是波生沿岸流乃至近岸流的主要驱动力。波浪辐射应力的计算将直接关系到沿岸流的大小及其水动力特性。不规则波相对规则波更能反应实际海洋中的波浪运动,因此不规则波作用下辐射应力的计算将更能体现实际沿岸流中的波浪驱动力。通过推导给出不规则波辐射应力计算的精确解与近似解,并对两种计算方法进行了分析比较,在此基础上进一步用波生沿岸流试验结果对近似计算方法中的波能计算进行了验证。结果表明窄谱情况下,不规则波辐射应力的近似计算方法已有较好的精度,可节省大量的计算时间,从而提高计算效率,但精确计算方法更能准确反应各时刻各位置辐射应力的波动状况。     

WAVE BOTTOM LAYERS DYNAMIC WITH SUSPENDED SEDIMENT OVER VORTEX RIPPLES

Vortex ripple is widely formed in the coastal region, and the dynamic of vortex is quite important because it is responsible for sediment transport. The flow structure around the vortex ripples can be modeled as 2D flow due to the geometry of the flow boundaries. In this paper, 2D Large-Ed-dy-Simulation (LES) method was used to predict the flow structure and the dynamic of vortex in the bottom layers under the action of the wave, the numerical simulation results show a completely process of vortex formation, evolvement and disappearance. Based on the study of flow structure, the suspended sediment transport was modeled in present paper. The simulated sediment concentrations were compared to measurements from the literature. The agreement between the time averaged simulated concentration profiles and measurements is satisfactory. For a high setting velocity, the suspended sediment is confined to the vicinity of the bed, and it is dominated by the local bottom shear stress. For a small setting velocity, the suspension is more dominated by the characteristic of vortex. There are two suspended sediment transport peaks observed in the cross-section at the trough and crest in the half period, the second peak is due to the separation bubble taking the sediment.     

波浪在水流作用下的变形

本文通过实验研究，分别观测了规则、波单向不规则波和多向不规则波在不同流速条件下的情况，同进利用静水中的实测波浪资料通过理论计算，分析了在水流中的波浪，并将计算值与实测值做了对比。比较表明，当波浪主方向与水流、法线方向的夹角不过大时，计算与实验吻合较好，表明所推荐的理论方法是可行的。     

Sensitivity of a sediment transport model for Lake Michigan

A two-dimensional (vertical and cross-shore) sediment transport model was applied to several transects in southern Lake Michigan using observations of waves and currents recorded during the spring of 2000. Conditions during this period included several storms that are among the largest observed in the lake. The observations were used to examine the sensitivity of the model to variations in the input parameters (waves, currents, initial bottom sediment size distribution, settling velocity, and bottom stress required for erosion). The results show that changing the physical forcing (waves and currents) or the initial bottom sediment size distribution affected the results more than varying the particle properties (settling velocity and critical shear stress) or the size classes used to describe the size distribution. This indicates that for this model specification of input parameters are of first order importance and should be specified with some confidence before adding additional complexity by including processes such as flocculation and bed consolidation.     

COMPARISON OF SCOURS IN FRONT OF VERTICAL BREAKWATERS DUE TO REGULAR AND IRREGULAR WAVES

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NUMERICAL SIMULATION OF IRREGULAR WAVE-SIMULATING IRREGULAR WAVE TRAIN

In real sea states, damage incidents on offshore floating structures are not due to the whole time series of wave elevation characterized as statistical one but due to few extreme waves or wave groups in irregular wave train. So, using CFD tools to precisely simulate predetermined irregular wave train will lay sound basis for understanding the local characteristic of the flow field and impact loads on offshore floating structures when damage incidents occur. In this article, the generation of single extreme wave is investigated in a numerical wave tank. First, experimental irregular wave train is decomposed into certain number of small-amplitude waves. The Fourier series expansion is performed to determine the amplitude and initial phase angle of each wave component. A hydrodynamic transfer function is used to calculate the amplitude of wave-maker motion associated with each wave component. Then superposition is carried out on all of the wave-maker motion components to get the final wave-maker motion. With the wave-maker motion as input, simulation of the single extreme irregular wave train is modeled successfully. Then the method is applied to simulating a much more complicated irregular wave train. Once again main features of the complicated irregular wave train are reproduced compared with experiment carried out in the new deepwater experimental basin at Shanghai Jiao Tong University. In the simulation, dynamic mesh method is enabled to model the piston-type wave-maker, the Volume Of Fluid (VOF) method is employed to capture the free surface and a dissipation zone is introduced to deal with wave reflection.     

伴有滑动床的粗颗粒石膏矿石浆体流动速度分布初探

随着浆体管道输送工程的应用和发展,输送颗粒的粒径越来越大,伴有滑动床流动的粗颗粒浆体的输送工程越来越多。基于滑动床以上的悬浮层内的剪切应力呈线性分布的假设,提出了最大流速点(即剪应力最小点)位置的计算公式。在最大流速点至管道内任意点方向应用流速亏损定律,给出了悬浮层内任意点速度分布的计算模型。通过石膏矿石浆体管道输送试验,给出了若干组浓度分布、速度分布实验数据。通过若干组数据的回归分析,给出了最大速度值的计算公式及卡门常数值。利用试验数据,对最大速度点位置计算公式和滑动床上速度分布的计算模型进行了检验,其计算值和实测值的最大偏差分别为3.8%和14.3%。