不同组织羊毛衫缩水率的研究

用单一组织和复合组织实验方法研究了相同原料、相同颜色、相同密度的羊毛衫在采用不同的织物组织后的缩水率情况.单一组织测试实验中,4种织物的横向缩水率和纵向缩水率变化都不相同,经过3次洗涤后得出:尺寸最稳定的是绞花组织织物,纵向缩水率最大的是四平组织织物,横向缩水率最大的是平针组织织物,横向不缩反而增宽的是四平组织和1+1罗纹组织织物.复合组织织物测试实验中,1+1罗纹组织出现在3个复合组织中,但是经过3次洗涤后它在3个复合组织织物中的缩水率都不相同,而且与单一罗纹组织织物洗涤后的缩水率也有很大差异,平针组织织物也出现了相同的情况.     

接结双层组织织物的设计

探讨接结双层组织织物的设计方法.通过采用接结点均匀与不均匀分布两种设计思路进行织物设计,并对样品进行了试织,总结出两种接结双层组织织物的织造要求、表里组织及接结组织的选择、纱线的排列、上机图的设计方法等.认为:利用双层组织表层和里层相对独立的特性,可设计出色彩更为丰富并具有独特结构及特殊效果的提花织物.     

织物组织结构对保暖及导热性能的影响

设计了6种不同组织点比例的织物,介绍了编织这些织物的机型、原料及纤维比例、织物平方米克重控制、织物结构参数,并以3号织物为例介绍了上机工艺.通过对6种不同组织点比例织物保暖性及其他热传递相关性能的测试分析得出:织物的保暖性能随正反面连接线圈所占比例的增加而减小,两者呈线性关系;织物的导热系数随正反面连接线圈所占比例的增加而增大,两者呈抛物线性关系.连接线圈所占比例越高,织物的保暖性越差.     

织物组织对大豆蛋白纤维织物服用性能的影响

通过对纱线规格相同而组织结构不同的 5种大豆蛋白纯纺织物服用性能的测试 ,探讨了不同组织对织物服用性能的影响 ,以及适合制作的服装面料     

腈纶变化罗纹织物线圈长度与克质量的关系

对毛衫织物几种罗纹组织织物线圈长度与克质量之间的关系进行了研究,通过测试分析得出了罗纹半空气层组织、罗纹空气层组织、满针罗纹组织3类腈纶织物线圈长度与克质量之间的线性回归方程,介绍了试验方法,并对试验结果进行分析,结果表明:当线圈长度在8.8～10.9 mm范围内时,3种组织织物克质量的关系为罗纹空气层组织>罗纹半空气层组织>满针罗纹组织:另外,随着织物线圈长度的逐渐增加.3种组织织物线圈长度与织物克质量之间呈近似负线性相关.     

组织参数与化纤仿毛织物蓬松度之间的关系

通过设计开发31种化纤仿毛织物,分析了织物的组织、混纺比、经纬纱线密度、经纬纱捻度以及织物的经纬密度,利用FAST-1压缩性织物风格仪测试织物在2、100 cN/cm2应力下的厚度,然后计算仿毛织物的蓬松度.并且分别研究织物的组织参数中经纬纱捻度、线密度、混纺比、织物经纬密度及织物的组织与仿毛织物蓬松度之间的关系,实验结果对化纤仿毛织物的设计及产品开发有指导意义.     

织物组织结构对针织内衣接触冷感的影响

设计了3组共13种针织面料,包括3种纬编基本组织织物,4种集圈针数及配置形式不同的单面织物,6种正反面连接点比例不同的夹层式保暖内衣织物.通过测试织物与人体接触时皮肤最大瞬态热流量的损失,研究织物组织结构变化对针织内衣接触冷感的影响,介绍了试验的方法,并对试验结果进行分析,得出:在3种基本组织织物中,棉毛组织接触冷感最小;基本组织相同,但结构不同的织物,接触冷感也不同;对于夹层式保暖内衣织物,随着正反面连接点比例的增加,织物的接触冷感明显增强;织物表面凹凸越明显.粗糙度越强,织物接触冷感越弱.     

基于数字图像的单层像景织物的快速实现方法

提出一种元组织设计法,用来快速、有效地将数字图像的灰度特征反映到像景织物上.阐述了元组织设计法的原霸元组织的设计要领,并给出了一个8枚元组织集合的例子.最后展示了使用该方法设计的一幅像景织物.     

柔性织物键盘按键凸起层的设计与开发

为了开发柔性织物键盘,选用涤纶长丝为原料,通过改变组织结构和调整工艺参数,设计了多种织物按键凸起层,使其产生不同的凸起效果.研究认为,单层组织与管组织结合形成的凸起适合制作柔性织物键盘的按键凸起层.     

基于重经组织结构的双面织物的设计

双面织物的设计方法很多.以重经组织为基础,利用两组经纱的重叠效应,分析了重经组织的结构,探讨了正反均为纵条纹和条格异面2种重经双面织物的组织设计、配色设计及上机装造方法.指出:双面重经织物的设计要点在于表里层组织的配置和表里层纱线色彩的配合.     

商业化生产中的毛圈针织物

在商业化大生产的背景下,前人已经对于多种毛圈针织物的生产方法进行了讨论,其应用领域主要为家居用纺织品,如装饰物、被单枕套及浴室脚垫。除这些产品外,毛圈织物生产商还必须增加产品产量,并在图案结构上采用最新技术,这种新技术能适用于产品热湿舒适性应用。     

Investigation into the curling behavior of single jersey weft-knitted fabrics and its prediction using neural network model

This research investigates the effect of fiber, yarn, and fabric parameters on curling phenomenon of single jersey weft-knitted fabrics which is interpreted to have curling surface in both course and wale direction. Taguchi’s experimental design is used to estimate the optimum process conditions and to examine the individual effects of all controllable factors on curling one by one. The controllable factors are blending ratio of polyester to cotton fiber, yarn twist and count, fabric structure, knit density, and relaxation time. Results show that fabric structure and knit density have the most dominant effect on the fabric curling. The optimum conditions of minimum curling values were also determined. Finally, the curling surface in course and wale direction as a two features of curling phenomenon was predicted using artificial neural network which selects scale conjugate gradient learning algorithm based on process parameters of single jersey weft-knitted fabrics. Our findings confirm the good capability of artificial neural network algorithm to predict these features.     

眼动仪在服装面料色彩视觉评价中的应用

针对目前服装面料色彩视觉评价领域存在主观评价不准确、难以与客观评价相联系的问题,将眼动仪应用在该领域进行研究。首先分别以色系和明度为单一变量设计了仿真面料及三维模拟服装;然后用所述面料及服装进行眼动追踪实验,并对受试者进行主观喜好的问卷调研;最后对具有相同色彩要素的面料和服装的客观注视与主观喜好进行相关性分析。结果显示:服装色系注视时间与主观喜好的相关系数为0.744,大于面料色系注视时间与喜好程度的相关系数0.448,与明度变量结果一致;使用眼动仪可建立客观注视与主观喜好间的联系,并且以服装为评价载体能够更有效地反映消费者主观意识中服装面料的整体效果,具有更大的视觉营销价值。     

The effect of knit structures with tuck stitches on fabric properties and pilling resistance

The patterns of knit fabrics are designed by loops, tuck stitches, and float stitches and their combinations. The tuck stitch has important influences on fabric properties. It increases the fabric’s weight, thickness, and width and makes the fabric more porous than other fabrics. In this study, to determine the effects of knit structures which are made from the same cotton yarn with tuck stitches on fabric properties and pilling resistance, circular knit fabrics with different locations and number of tuck stitches were produced and dyed under the same conditions. In the evaluation process of the results, graphs were drawn and variance analyses were performed. At the end of the study, important findings were determined. The number and location of the tuck stitches and stitch length are effective factors on the structural, physical properties and the pilling resistance of knit fabrics. The fabrics with tuck stitches have much higher porosity, weight, and thickness compared to single jersey fabric. The dyeing process increases fabric weight. Single jersey has the lowest pilling resistance in comparison to fabrics having tuck stitches. The fabrics having more pores and larger pores show higher resistance to pilling. Dyeing and finishing processes decreased the pilling resistance of fabrics.     

Comparison of compression properties of stretchable knitted fabrics and bi-stretch woven fabrics for compression garments

Stretchable fabrics have diverse applications ranging from casual apparel to performance sportswear and compression therapy. Compression therapy is the universally accepted treatment for the management of hypertrophic scarring after severe burns. Mostly stretchable knitted fabrics are used in compression therapy; but in the recent past, some studies have also been found on bi-stretch woven fabrics being used as compression garments as they also have been found quite effective in the treatment of edema. Therefore, the objective of the present study is to compare the compression properties of stretchable knitted and bi-stretch woven fabrics for compression garments. For this purpose, four woven structures and four knitted structures were produced having same areal density and their compression, comfort and mechanical properties were compared before and after 5, 10 and 15 washes. The four knitted structures used were single jersey, single locaste, plain pique and honeycomb, whereas the four woven structures produced were 1/1 plain, 2/1 twill, 3/1 twill and 4/1 twill. The compression properties of the produced samples were tested by using kikuhime pressure sensor and it was found that bi-stretch woven fabrics possessed better compression properties before and after washes and retain their durability after repeated use, whereas knitted stretchable fabrics lost their compression ability after repeated use and the required sub-garment pressure of the knitted structures after 15 washes was almost half that of woven bi-stretch fabrics.     

竹浆/棉混纺纱针织物的服用性能

以竹浆/棉混纺纱为研究对象,经圆纬机织造和后整理工艺制备出纬平针和双罗纹针织物,测试分析了织物的透气性、透湿性、芯吸性、吸湿快干性、悬垂性、刚柔性和表面摩擦性等服用性能。测试结果显示,竹浆/棉混纺纱针织产品具有良好的春夏季服用舒适性能。     

基于逃逸时间算法的M集针织花型设计方法

为提高针织物花型组织的设计能力,开拓新的设计思路,对分形图像的生成进行了初步的研究。以经典的Mandelbrot集为例,采用VB编程,以逃逸时间算法为基础生成Mandelbrot集图形。对生成图像通过放大、截取、排列组合等方式能够获得更多绚丽多彩的图案,对由此形成的针织花型设计方法进行初步探讨。利用STOLL公司M1花型设计系统模拟织物真实效果,通过改变线圈单元结构可以形成不同的针织物组织。这种方法为针织花型的设计提供了丰富的图案。     

纤维异形度对织物导湿快干性能的影响

借助电子显微镜及扫描电镜分别对“Y”形、“+”形、“CO”形3种新型聚酯纤维的截面形状与异形度进行分析研究,并用这几种纤维上机编织出4组不同组织和密度的单、双面针织物,并对其导水性能———毛细效应高度、保水率以及干燥效率分别进行了实验研究。结果发现,纤维的异形度越大,织物导湿快干性能越好,即“CO”形>“+”形>“Y”形。     

The formation and performance of auxetic textiles. Part I: theoretical and technical considerations

Auxetic textiles belong to a class of extraordinary materials that become fatter when stretched. Sustained efforts to fabricate auxetic fabric structures are limited. Indeed, several geometrical configurations have been previously proposed but none has been engineered into functional auxetic textile fabrics. The use of auxetic materials has been limited because of problems with deploying them in their fabricated forms. Our thrust in this research is to combine our knowledge of geometry and fabric structural characteristics to engineer auxetic textiles and to determine the properties of such auxetic textile fabrics. In this paper, we have presented the technique we developed for producing several knit structures in which filling yarn inlays are used to effect compound repeating units. In these productions, the chain is used as a base structure and a minimum of two guide bars and maximum of six guide bars are deployed to produce such warp knit auxetic fabrics.     

Effect of input tension of inlay yarn on the characteristics of knitted circular stretch fabrics and pressure generation

Stretch fabrics are used in manufacturing pressure garments to exert pressure over specific body parts in medical conditions like venous and lymphatic disorders, scar management, and bone and muscle injuries. The amount of therapeutic pressure required in each medical condition is different; therefore, there is a need to engineer the stretch properties of garments to match the requirements in each case. Limited information is available on the relationship between fabric properties and the pressure generated on the body. In this paper, an attempt has been made to study the effect of inlay yarn pre-tension at the time of manufacturing of stretch fabrics on the pressure generated by the garments. Results show that change in inlay pre-tension significantly changes the structural characteristics of the fabric but the load elongation behavior remains unchanged up to 100% extension. Pressure exerted on rigid cylindrical tubes increases with reduction factor of the fabric tube and the curvature of the cylinder.