Environmentally compatible surfactants for the cosmetic industry

From the application pattern of surfactant-containing cosmetic products, it is inevitable that the major part of the chemicals will be discharged into waste water and eventually will enter the environment. Because the environmental compatibility of the products is based on the ecological properties of their raw meterials, the biodegradability and ecotoxicological behaviour of the product components and particularly the surfactants, form the central elements of the environmental compatibility assessment. The tools for this evaluation are standardized test systems, which are described and discussed on the basis of the ecological data of selected surfactants. De par le type d'application des produits cosmetiques contenant des tensioactifs, il est inevitable que la plus grande partie des substances chimiques soit evacuee dans les eaux usees et finisse par arriver dans l'environnement. Puisque la compatibilite environnementale des produits est basee sur les proprietes ecologiques de leurs matieres premieres, la biodegradabilite et le comportement ecotoxicologique des composants des produits, et en particulier des tensioactifs, forment les elements majeurs de l'evaluation de la compatibilite environnementale. Les outils de cette evaluation sont des systemes d'essai normalises, qui sont decrits et commentes d'apres les donnees ecologiques de tensioactifs choisis.     

Comparison of diffusion by anionic surfactants through cellulose acetate and collagen membranes

From a dermatological point of view, it is important to know what is the irritation potential of surfactants on human skin. Recent research trends have been oriented towards the establishment of new ' in vitro ' techniques that will avoid animal experimentation.
In this paper, some results on the rate of diffusion of different anionic surfactants through both cellulose acetate and collagen membranes are described. A correlation between results of diffusion through the protein membrane and results published on the same surfactants and their irritation potential during ' in vivo ' experiments appears possible.     

Studies on the cosmetic criteria of the hair after shampoo

An objectivised sensorial method for evaluating the effects of shampoos on the appearance and manageability of the hair is described. Two different shampoos for greasy hair were applied twice weekly for a period of 4 weeks to the right and left sides (split-head tests) of six subjects having greasy hair, the same shampoo being applied to the same side. A trained observer used a continuous rating scale to assess nine cosmetic parameters; overall assessments by observer and subjects were noted. Evaluations were made immediately after and at various intervals following shampoo. The data were presented in ‘profile graphs’ and evaluated statistically. Shampoo A was found to be significantly better (P < 0.05) than shampoo B for all parameters immediately after shampoo and for six parameters after 1 day. The differences between A and B were no longer significant after 2 days, and only marginal differences were noted after 3 and 4 days. Analysis of the results of forty additional split-head tests carried out with ten different shampoos revealed interdependence (P < 0.01) between some parameters. Our results show the elective action of shampoos on the cosmetic parameters, the duration and limits of this action, and the interdependence between certain parameters. Etudes sur les critères cosmétiques de la chevelure après shampooing     

Performance characteristics and solution properties of surfactants in shampoos

A brief analysis is made of the main types of surfactants used in shampoos and bubble baths. The requirements of a modern shampoo are discussed as are the means by which these can be achieved by the use of a number of selected additives such as the traditional alkanolamides, and the newer amine oxides, amido amine betaines and alkyl amine betaines. In particular, such aspects as the achievement of viscosity control, foam generation, shelf life stability and safety are examined. The physical chemistry of the behaviour in solution of several selected non-ionic and amphoteric nitrogen containing surfactants is discussed and how these affect viscosity modification and foam generation. Mention is also made of the chemistry of the new highly concentrated anionic surfactants and the benefits that they give the formulator. Finally, the attributes of imidazoline derived surfactants are outlined with special reference to their mildness and foaming ability. Propriété et solubilités des tensio-actifs dans les shampooings     

醇(酚)醚羧酸盐HLB值与pH值关系及应用

表面活性剂 R( - OCH2 CH2 )- n OCH2 COOMe因 R、n和 p H值不同 ,它们的 HLB值不同 ,用途也不同。选择合成不同 n值的醇醚羧酸盐和烷基酚醚羧酸盐 ,用乳化法测定它们在不同 p H值条件下的 HL B值 ,并绘制 HL B—p H关系图 ,供使用参考。用合成的表面活性剂在不同 p H值条件下处理革样 ,然后测定革 2 h吸水率的变化。结果表明 :n值越小 ,p H值越低 ,革的吸水率增加越少 ,当 p H为值 4 .0 ,再用铬( )盐固定后 ,低 n值 R( - OCH2 CH2 ) n- OCH2 COOMe处理的革的吸水率基本上不增加 ,因此适合作防水材料乳化剂     

Fatty acid composition and sensory traits of beef fed palm oil supplements

This study measured the effect of replacing dietary fat from an animal source with palm oil supplements on the intramuscular fatty acid profile and sensory quality traits of the meat from young bulls. Thirty-six entire male Friesian calves (mean age=6.8±1.1 months, mean live weight=162.5±28.6kg) were assigned to one of four isoenergetic (1.03 MFU/kg DM) and isoproteinic (15.5% CP) diets, that differed in their fat additives: (D1) lard-tallow mix (control); (D2) hydrogenated palm oil fatty acids (PFA); (D3) calcium salt of partially hydrogenated PFA, and (D4) calcium salt of the fatty acid distillate from palm oil. Bulls (mean live weight=391.3±30.3kg) were slaughtered under commercial conditions and sensory tests were performed to evaluate the effects of the four diets and ageing time (1, 10, and 21d). Only the proportions of C16:0 and C18:0 were significantly affected by the palm oil dietary supplement. Ageing time affected grass odour, tenderness, juiciness, fibrosity, liver flavour, and acid flavour. Nevertheless, palm oil supplements did not negatively alter the organoleptic characteristics of the meat.     

Fatty acid methyl and ethyl esters as well as wax esters for evaluating the quality of olive oils

A promising correlation between chemical analysis and sensorial evaluation was confirmed: extra virgin olive oils with low contents of methyl and ethyl esters of fatty acids as well as straight chain wax esters were sensorially evaluated as being of high quality, whereas some with high contents were even devaluated as not being of extra virgin quality. Methanol and ethanol formed during fermentation in degrading olives are esterified, largely by transesterification with fatty acids from the triglycerides, and in this way transferred into the pressed oil. The presence of high contents of methyl and ethyl esters in degrading olives was confirmed. Wax esters from the skin of the olives are extracted at low yields, whereby the yield increases when the olives are soft and possibly degrading. High wax ester contents may, therefore, stand for mild oils, but also for deficient oils.     

含聚氧乙烯链季铵盐阳离子表面活性剂对阴离子染料染色的影响

选择了几种聚氧乙烯型季铵盐阳离子表面活性剂，探讨了这些表面活性剂与酸性染料的相互作用以及对染料染色性能的影响.结果表明，含聚氧乙烯链阳离子表面活性剂能降低酸性染料的初始上染速率，并具有较好的移染性，可开发为匀染剂.为新型表面活性剂的应用和新型染色助剂的开发提供了理论依据。     

Gemini表面活性剂及其合成与应用

Gemini表面活性剂由于独特的性能、优异的表面活性，它的临界胶束浓度cwc以及降低表面张力的效率均较传统表面活性剂低数百倍，不仅应用浓度大幅刚氏，而且具有传统表面活性剂不具备的性能，被誉为新一代的表面活性剂，成为表面活性剂研究开发的热点，目前正期待着大规模工业化生产．     

腰果酚聚氧乙烯醚在涤纶分散染料染色中的构效关系

以腰果酚聚氧乙烯醚作为涤纶染色高温匀染剂,探讨了聚氧乙烯链段中EO结构单元数对分散染料分散性、缓染性和移染性的影响.结果 表明:腰果酚聚氧乙烯醚对分散染料有增溶、分散和移染作用,并且随着结构中EO数的增加而减弱,EO数在5～7的腰果酚聚氧乙烯醚缓染性能最佳.     

Fatty acid alkyl esters presence in olive oil vs. organoleptic assessment

The scientific work on the authenticity and quality of olive oil is an ever-growing area. Olive oil genuineness is not only valuable for the producers, but also for the consumers who expect an actual correspondence between the products they purchase and the information on the packaging labels. Sometimes oil's rejection by consumers is just a matter of taste, sometimes is a more objective question. Low quality olive oils with weak organoleptic defects are the targets of illegal blends that can be detected by determining the content of fatty acid alkyl esters (FAAEs). In this line we have established a relationship between the FAAEs concentration of olive oils and their sensory classification. Besides, a connection between the presence of large quantities of FAAEs and fermentative organoleptic defects has been proven.     

Comparison of percutaneous penetration in vitro using clofibric acid esters and amides as novel enhancers in two species: mouse and guinea pig

A series of clofibric acid esters and amides has been assessed as dermal penetration enhancers towards hydrocortisone-21-acetate, a model drug. In vitro percutaneous absorption experiments on three skin sources (athymic nude mouse, hairless mouse, and hairless guinea pig) showed several compounds to be effective penetration enhancers, the octyl amide providing an approximately 20-fold increase in 24 h diffusion cell receptor drug concentration and 5.7 fold in total steroid skin retention in nude mouse. Azone produced significantly higher (p <0.05) permeation rates than the octyl amide enhancer, but there was a smaller increase in 24 h receptor concentrations, and Azone steroid skin concentrations were significantly less (p < 0.05) than those for the amide. There was no significant difference (p < 0.05) between enhancement in hairless and athymic nude mouse, however, hairless guinea pig skin showed decreased enhancer effectiveness.     

Fatty acid esters of 3-chloropropane-1,2-diol in edible oils.

A series of 25 virgin and refined edible oils, obtained from retailers, was analyzed for levels of free 3-chloropropane-1,2-diol (3-MCPD) and 3-MCPD released from esters with higher fatty acids (bound 3-MCPD). Oils containing free 3-MCPD ranging from <3 microg kg-1 (LOD) to 24 microg kg-1. Surprisingly, bound 3-MCPD levels were much higher and varied between <100 (LOD) and 2462 microg kg-1. On average, virgin oils had relatively low levels of bound 3-MCPD, ranging from <100 (LOD) to <300 microg kg-1 (LOQ). Higher levels of bound 3-MCPD were found in oils from roasted oilseeds (337 microg kg-1) and in the majority of refined oils (<300-2462 microg kg-1), including refined olive oils. In general, it appears that the formation of bound 3-MCPD in oils is linked to preliminary heat treatment of oilseeds and to the process of oil refining. Analysis of unrefined, de-gummed, bleached, and deodorized rapeseed oil showed that the level of bound MCPD decreased during the refining process. However, additional heating of seed oils for 30 min at temperatures ranging from 100 to 280 degrees C, and heating at 230 degrees C (260 degrees C) for up to 8 h, led to an increase in bound 3-MCPD levels. On the other hand, heating of olive oil resulted in a decrease in bound 3-MCPD levels. For comparison, fat isolated from salami was analyzed for intact fatty acid esters of 3-MCPD. This fat contained bound 3-MCPD at a level of 1670 microg kg-1 and the fatty acid esters of 3-MCPD mainly consisted of 3-MCPD diesters; monoesters of 3-MCPD were present in smaller amounts. The major types of 3-MCPD diesters (about 85%) were mixed diesters of palmitic acid with C18 fatty acids (stearic, oleic, linoleic acids). These diesters were followed by 3-MCPD distearate (11%) and 3-MCPD dipalmitate (4%). Generally, very little 3-MCPD existed as the free compound (31 microg kg-1).     

磷酸酯型表面活性剂在染整工业中的应用

介绍了磷酸酯型表面活性剂特性、五氧化二磷与脂肪醇合成反应的一般工艺条件和不同分子结构对产品性能的影响.在染整工业中作为耐碱渗透剂、精练剂、丝光渗透剂,抗静电剂以及洗涤剂、阻燃剂已得到了广泛的使用.随着有机合成、表面化技术的进步,磷酸酯表面活性剂在染整工业中,应用必将日益扩大.     

两性表面活性剂的类型、应用性能和发展概况

列出了两性表面活性剂的分类情况 ,探讨了其应用性能和发展概况     

Fatty acid esters of monochloropropanediol (MCPD) and glycidol in refined edible oils

Recently, fatty acid esters of monochloropropanediol (MCPD) and that of glycidol have been reported in refined edible oils. Since then a wealth of research has been published on the factors influencing the formation of these contaminants in foods. It can be noted that the predominant precursors in a given matrix will not necessarily be the same as in other matrices. Further, proven relationships in the past between precursors responsible for free MCPD or free glycidol formation will not necessarily be valid for their fatty acid-esterified counterparts. This review attempts to summarise the current status of the literature as it pertains to the reasons surrounding the manifestation of MCPD esters and glycidyl esters in oils and fats. Recent efforts to mitigate the levels of these contaminants were highlighted and put into the context of their respective reaction matrices. As more accurate occurrence data for MCPD esters and glycidyl esters in other foods are collected, more targeted mitigation experiments can be formulated with respect to the reaction matrices under investigation.     

表面活性剂对牛仔布生化酶洗效果的影响

通过在牛仔布生化酶洗过程中加入不同种类的表面活性剂试验,分别分析了阴离子表面活性剂、阳离子表面活性剂和非离子表面活性剂对牛仔布生化酶洗处理的影响规律。试验表明各种表面活性剂对于不同牛仔布的酶洗效果影响规律基本相似,随浓度不同,各种表面活性剂对酶活力和反应速度的影响规律有所不同。     

Fatty acid esters of fumonisins: first evidence of their presence in maize

Fumonisin derivatives obtained by esterification of fumonisin B₁ (FB₁) with palmitic, oleic and linoleic fatty acids have been recently described, but never reported in raw maize so far. In this study, the presence of oleoyl-EFB₁ (EFB₁OA) and linoleoyl-EFB₁ (EFB₁LA) in raw maize is reported by means of a suitable LC-ESI-MS/MS method. In addition, the production of EFB₁ derivatives by three Fusarium verticillioides strains is described on malt extract–based media and on corn meal–based growth media. EFB₁OA and EFB₁LA were produced by all considered strains in corn meal medium, with EFB₁LA > EFB₁OA. On the contrary, EFB₁OA and EFB₁LA were never observed in Fusarium cultures grown on a malt extract medium, suggesting that the esterification of FB₁ can occur only in a complex matrix such as maize.     

Time-dependent competitive adsorption of milk proteins and surfactants in oil-in-water emulsions

Competitive adsorption of pure milk proteins and non-ionic surfactants has been studied in model oil-in-water emulsions (4 g kg^?1 β-lactoglobulin or β-casein, 200 g kg^?1 n-hexadecane) as a function of the age of the adsorbed protein layer at the oil-water interface. With β-lactoglobulin-stabilised emulsions containing oil-soluble surfactant C₁₂ E₂ (diethylene glycol n-dodecyl ether), there is found to be a steadily increasing amount of protein associated with the emulsion droplets over a few hours following emulsification. Addition of water-soluble surfactant Tween 20 (polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan monolaurate) to a β-lactoglobulin-stabilised emulsion (with or without C₁₂E₂) leads to less protein displacement if the emulsion is aged prior to addition of Tween 20. Moderate additions of C₁₂E₂ or Tween 20 produce no time dependence in the competitive adsorption in β-casein-stabilised emulsions, although some time dependence is observed when C₁₂E₂ and a high concentration of Tween 20 are present together. Crystallisation of the oil phase in β-casein-stabilised emulsions at pH 7 leads to a lowering of the measured protein surface concentration, especially in the presence of C₁₂E₂ and a reduction in the surfactant to protein molar ratio required for complete protein displacement by water-soluble surfactant (Tween 20 or octaethylene glycol n-dodecyl ether). Under more acidic conditions of pH 5 or pH 3, the surface coverage and ease of displacement of β-lactoglobulin at the surface of liquid emulsion droplets is substantially different from that under neutral pH conditions.