棉织物抗紫外线整理研究进展

棉织物是人们夏季服饰的首选,但是棉织物的抗紫外能力差,所以对棉织物进行抗紫外线功能整理是实现健康绿色理念提高其附加值的重要环节。本文针对现有棉织物的整理方法,详细介绍了有机紫外线吸收剂整理方法和无机纳米紫外线屏蔽剂整理方法的研究进展。对该领域的研究方向做了展望:有机紫外线吸收剂整理法应用工艺的改进和高效稳定试剂的开发同样重要;无机纳米紫外线屏蔽剂整理工艺方法还有待完善。     

General trends in the coloring and finishing of textiles

From the present situation in the textile finishing industry, it is evident that revolutionary innovations are not in sight and that attempts to work with new processes must first prove successful in special sectors. The dyestuff and auxiliaries market will depend on the price to the same extent as technical progress approaches an end point. The trend toward a splitting up of the market into fashion and nonfashion goods will intensify the regional shift in the production of standard qualities. Whereas in Western Europe and Japan the proportion of highly fashionable qualities is increasing and some are even exported, in the U.S. the parallel development of both types of goods will continue, as befits the size and multifariousness of this market.     

New catalyst system for easy-care cotton finishing

A new catalyst system, based on a mixture of boron trifluoride–acetic acid complex (BF₃·2CH₃COOH) and magnesium chloride hexahydrate (MgCl₂·6H₂O), has been examined in cotton finishing treatment for producing easy-care properties. It provides strong catalysis in crosslinking cotton with a series of N-methylol finishing agents when the pad-dry-cure process is applied. Curing can be carried out at a temperature of 130–150°C for a period of 1–3 min, dependent on the temperature used. The resilience and abrasion resistance properties as well as the degree of polymerization (D.P.) of the crosslinked cotton so obtained were equivalent or slightly better than those of crosslinked cottons catalyzed by conventional catalysts. The influence of the new catalyst as well as a number of conventional catalysts, viz., ammonium chloride, ammonium dihydrogen phosphate, magnesium chloride hexahydrate, and zinc nitrate hexahydrate, on some properties of cotton fabrics was also investigated. The behavior of these catalysts in the presence of the N-methylol finishing agent was quite different from their behavior in its absence. With the exception of ammonium salts, the D.P. of crosslinked cotton was much higher than that of cotton treated with the catalyst only. The opposite holds true for the abrasion resistance.     

Graft copolymerization of nitrogen‐ and phosphorus‐containing monomers onto cellulosics for flame‐retardant finishing of cotton textiles

Phosphoramide containing an active vinyl group (P‐III) was prepared. Its structure was confirmed by elemental analysis and Fourier transform infrared, nuclear magnetic resonance, and mass spectroscopy. P‐III was evaluated as a fire‐retardant finishing agent for cotton fabrics. It was applied to cotton fabrics using a graft process with an Fe²⁺/H₂O₂ redox system. The major factors affecting the reaction were studied. The finished cotton fabrics were examined for flammability, and the effect of washing on treated fabrics was also examined. The results showed that P‐III can be successfully used as a flame retardant for cotton fabrics. Durably flame‐retardant cotton fabrics were obtained at add‐on levels higher than 38%. © 2003 Wiley Periodicals, Inc. J Appl Polym Sci 89: 2573–2578, 2003     

基于生态友好纺织品的染整创新技术

从发展生态友好纺织品及如何应对绿色壁垒的角度,分析了纺织品上需避免的常见有害物质的类型,介绍了近年来生态友好染整新技术的开发及实际应用情况,提出了应有的发展战略。     

Comparative studies of the burning behaviour of textiles from polyester/cotton and pure cotton

A test device consisting of an asbestos covered wooden cylinder was developed to study the burning behaviour of textiles relative to transmitted thermal energy and heat flux registered at 20 sensor points on the cylinder. In order to simulate a ‘line situation’ a reproducible procedure was used for igniting the fabrics at the hem edge by open flames. By linking known tolerance thresholds for second degree burn injuries in humans to the measured time patterns of transmitted thermal energy, the burning behaviour of a pure cotton twill, a 35/65% polyester-cotton twill and a 65/35% polyester-cotton twill was compared. All fabrics, which had no fire-retardant finishes, were also tested in combination with cotton underwear and in some of the experiments they were soaked with an inflammable solvent before ignited. In contrast to customary opinions it could be shown that in apparel burn accidents without inflammable solvents fabrics made from polyester-cotton blends are more advantageous with regard to the thermal energy transmitted to the skin of the wearer than fabrics made from cotton. Even when the burning clothes are soaked with an inflammable solvent, polyester-cotton blends are practically not more disadvantageous than 100% cotton fabrics.     

Chemical finishing of cotton using reactive cyclodextrin

Chemical modification of cotton cellulose in the fabric form was investigated through reaction with monochloro-β-cyclodextrin. The reaction involves single ended substitution and crosslinking. Investigations into the factors affecting these reactions occurring in the presence of N-methylol compound (resin) and/or a reactive dye were undertaken. The treatment was carried out as per the conventional pad–thermofixation method.     

Digital comparison of x-ray diffraction data from cotton textiles

It is proposed that step-scanned digital x-ray diffraction data from closely similar samples be compared only after averaging several scans. The comparison of averaged data for two samples is shown directly by a running difference curve; more subtle differences are indicated by a running sum of difference curve. In order to compensate for inequalities arising from experimental difficulties, scaling of the two data sets may be optionally accomplished by either equating the total intensity sums or performing a least-squares fitting. Comparison of the two scale factors and consideration of the intercept (background) and resulting standard deviation provide a quantitative estimate of the difference between samples. The proposed techniques are illustrated for hydrocellulose II, cotton treated with acid, flame retardant, and permanent-press agent, and for the experimental differences of intact cloth versus pressed pellet and different beam-current settings on the diffractometer.     

Thermoanalytical characteristics of polycarboxylic acids investigated as durable press agents for cotton textiles

Polycarboxylic acids are of great interest to the cotton textile industry as durable press agents because they do not release substances that require mandatory monitoring. Differential scanning colorimetric (DSC), thermogravimetric (TG), and differential thermogravimetric (DTG) techniques were used to study the thermal characteristics of a series of 10 polycarboxylic acids. Samples included di-, tri-, and tetra-functional compounds some of which contained olefinic linkages, hydroxyl substituents, and cyclic structure. Thermogravimetric data at simulated fabric cure temperatures was used to assess the potential of a compound for use as a textile finishing agent. In high-temperature studies the compounds were readily distinguishable in DSC analyses. General characteristics such as increases in total heats of reactions were found to be related to the number of functional groups. These results also provided support for a mechanism for the reaction of polycarboxylic acids with cellulose through an anhydride intermediate.     

废涤棉纺织品分离回收再生技术研究

简要介绍了废PET纺织品回收的重要性和方法,通过实验研究,说明醇解路线是将涤棉混纺织物分离回收再利用的有效手段。在醇解工艺、涤棉分离、回收棉的处理、醇解物再聚合方面进行了研究,提出了涤棉回收工艺路线设想。     

Single-step dyeing and finishing treatment of cotton with 1,2,3,4-butanetetracarboxylic acid

A single-step dyeing and finishing (SDF) process was developed to eliminate dyeing problems associated with cotton crosslinked by polycarboxylic acid such as 1,2,3,4-butanetetracarboxylic acid (BTCA). This process consisted of several steps: (a) impregnation of the fabric by the bath containing BTCA, dye, and catalyst; (b) drying; and (c) curing at high temperature. Color strength (K/S) and dye fixation of cotton treated by the SDF process were excellent, especially with reactive dyes containing mono- or dichlorotriazinyl compounds and, in some cases, were higher than those of the sample dyed by a conventional batch process without finishing treatment. The presence of dye in the SDF process did not interfere with crosslinking of cotton. We believed that the reaction occurred between carboxyl groups of BTCA and s-triazinyl groups in reactive dyes in the presence of imidazole and other catalyst. FTIR, Raman, and X-ray fluorescence spectroscopies were used to confirm the mechanism of dye fixation. Elemental analysis also supported this mechanism. The SDF process can be an excellent way to dye fabric that also requires crosslinking treatment for smooth drying appearance. © 1994 John Wiley & Sons, Inc.     

Influence of pregrafting cotton fabrics on kinetics of DMEU finishing

Cotton fabrics were pregrafted with a mixture of N-methylolacrylamide and methacrylic acid at mixing molar ratio of 4/6. The influence of pregrafting on the kinetics of finishing with 1,3-dimethylolethylene urea was studied. The results shows that pregrafting can increase the rate constants. Values of E_a ΔH^*, ΔS^*, and ΔG^* suggest that the pregrafting of cotton fabric not only affects the reaction action state, but also is beneficial for the reaction between cellulose and the finishing agent. © 1996 John Wiley & Sons, Inc.     

Lipid soil removal from cotton fabric after mercerization and carboxymethylation finishing

Soiling and soil removal from cotton fabrics that had been chemically modified by mercerization and carboxymethylation were studied using electron microscopy and radiotracer techniques. The distribution of lard soil in specimens before and after laudering was determined by means of chemical tagging with osmium tetroxide. Both the chemical and physical changes of the cotton resulted in differences in soiling and soil removal of lipid soil. Mercerization and carboxymethylation of cotton swell the cotton fiber, decrease the crenulation and the lumen, and smooth the fiber surface. These finishes also increase the pore volume and thus the chemical accessibility of the fibrillar structure. In addition, carboxymethylation causes changes in the chemistry of the fiber by increasing the carboxyl group content. These structural changes reduce the amount of soil deposited in the lumen of the fiber, particularly for the carboxymethylated cotton. They also increase soil removal from the crenulation and the interfiber spaces in the yarn bundle. Soil removal from fiber surfaces and from within the fiber—both lumen and secondary wall—was highest for the carboxymethylated cotton, and mercerization also enhanced lipid soil removal. The results of this experiment indicate that chemical accessibility and hydrophilicity of the fiber structure influence both soil deposition and soil removal of lipid soils. Soil removal of these modified cottons is enhanced by multiple mechanisms: (i) the decrease in small crevices and the crenulation or small capillary along the fiber, (ii) the increase in pore volume that enhances chemical accessibility and thus detergency within the fiber structure, (iii) the increase in hydrophilicity that enhances soil removal from the surface by the roll-up mechanism, (iv) the increase of mechanical action due to enhanced swelling of the carboxymethylated cotton, and (v) the reduction of soil redeposition on carboxymethylated surfaces.     

新型整理剂的合成

以环氧氯丙烷、八氟戊醇为原料,利用八氟戊氧基对环氧氯丙烷进行取代,合成了一种新型的拒水整理剂。配制了该拒水整理剂的水乳液,并应用于棉织物的拒水整理。研究了拒水整理剂的用量、焙烘温度对拒水整理效果的影响。优化了拒水整理工艺：拒水整理剂25％（对浴比的百分比,简称owb）,乳化剂25％（质量分数,简称owm）,160℃焙烘。结果表明,用于棉织物整理时防水效果可达70分。     

Dyeing and finishing polyester/ cotton — the commercial approach

Fabrics woven from blends of polyester and cotton are used in large quantities for a wide range of clothing purposes. It is therefore vital that the most cost-effective finishing methods are used on these fabrics. Here, John Pashley looks at finishing techniques for polyester/cotton from a commercial angle.     

水性聚氨酯棉织物抗皱整理工艺探讨

针对纯棉织物急、缓弹回复角、断强保留率、白度和增重率几项指标,对合成的封闭型水性聚氨酯进行了抗皱整理工艺的研究。通过单因素和正交实验探讨了水性聚氨酯种类及用量、催化剂种类及用量、焙烘温度和时间对抗皱效果的影响,确定了水性聚氨酯抗皱整理最佳工艺条件。     

Effect of MAA/MAM pregrafting on DMEU finishing of cotton fabrics

Cotton fabrics were pregrafted with mixed monomer of methacrylic acid (MAA) and N-methylolacrylamide (MAM) before undergoing finishing with 1,3-dimethylolethylene urea. Experiments show that when the molar ratio of MAA and MAM is 4 : 6 the finished fabric has the maximum nitrogen content (N%) and crosslinking density. The pregrafting can improve the wet crease recovery angle and the moisture regain, can reduce the tensile strength retention, and has little effect on the dry crease recovery angle. In addition, at a pregrafting ratio of 4 : 6, the finished fabric has the highest crease recovery angle and moisture regain. © 1995 John Wiley & Sons, Inc.     

Dependence of soiling and soil release of easy care cotton on factors-controlling the finishing treatment

The conventional pad-dry-cure method was used for effecting crosslinking of cotton with N-methylol finishing agents under different conditions. Factors studied include nature and concentration of finishing agent and softener, type and concentration of catalyst, and curing temperatures. Variation of soiling and soil release characteristics of crosslinked cotton with these factors were investigated. The effect of finishing agent on aqueous soiling followed the order: Carbamate reactant-fabric > Dimethylolethylene urea-fabric > Dimethyloldihydroxyethylene urea-fabric > Untreated fabric > Modified triazinone-fabric ≥ Modified ethylene urea-fabric. On the other hand, the effect of these finishing agents was to enhance the susceptibility of the fabric to oily soiling. Nevertheless, nature of the finishing agent governed the magnitude of this enhancement. Aqueous and oily soil release depended also upon the nature of finishing agent, soiling increased and soil release decreased by increasing finishing agent concentration. Type of catalyst exerted a considerable influence on aqueous and oily soil release without significantly affecting the degree of soiling. For aqueous soil release, the following order was found: Al₂(SO₄)₃ · 18H₂O > MgCl₂ · 6H₂O > urea nitrate > ZnCl₂ · 6H₂O > Zn(NO₃)₂ · 6H₂O > urea phosphate > urea oxalate > NH₄ · H₂PO₄ ≥ NH₄Cl. A reverse order held good for oily soil release. Both aqueous and oily soil release were impaired by increasing catalyst concentration. Similarly, nature and concentration of the softener had no striking effect on soiling while they did on soil release. Raising the curing temperature from 80 to 140°C caused substantial reduction in case of soil removal of urea salts catalyzed-crosslinked cotton samples while having the degree of soiling practically intact.