织物性能及缝纫工艺对雪纺织物缝口强度的影响

选用服装厂常用的6种雪纺织物,测定其基本参数,采用正交试验方法,分析线迹密度、机针、缝纫线3种缝纫参数对缝口强度的影响及雪纺织物性能与缝口强度的相关性。试验结果表明：对于较薄的雪纺织物,缝口破坏形式为纱线滑脱,线迹密度的影响最为显著,缝口强度与线迹密度成负相关;对于较厚的雪纺织物,缝口破坏形式为缝纫线断裂,缝纫线的影响最为显著,缝口强度与线迹密度、缝纫线粗细成正相关;而机针对缝口强度的影响最小。     

缝纫形式与参数对丝绸面料缝口强度的影响

对薄厚不同的两种真丝面料,选择常用的平缝、压缉缝、内包缝以及垫布缝4种缝纫形式,及线迹密度、缝纫线细度2个因素,其余缝纫条件在实验过程中保持一致,进行单因素下5次以上的测试实验.测试不同缝纫条件下真丝面料的接缝强力、断裂伸长率等特性.研究表明,随着线迹密度的增大,织物的断裂强力及断裂伸长率先增大后减小.随着缝纫线细度变细,断裂强力及断裂伸长率均减小.薄型丝织物中面料的缝纫外观等级随着面料厚度的增加有所改善.并以生产实践为例,找出最佳工艺参数,提出了改善与提高真丝面料缝口性能的理论与方法.     

针织服装缝制牢度的研究

采用正交试验原理设计试验,测试分析缝线品种、线迹类型和线迹密度对针织服装缝制牢度和外观质量的影响。经过测试和数据分析得出:涤纶缝线(A2)的强度、延伸性、均匀性和耐磨性均好于棉线及涤棉混纺线;双针绷缝线迹(B3)的拉伸性能大于301号线迹和三线包缝线迹;301号线迹(B2)的耐磨性好于双针绷缝线迹和三线包缝线迹;线迹密度为4针/cm(C2)时拉伸性能和耐磨性能较好。因此,考虑拉伸性,A2B3C2为最优参数组合;考虑耐磨性能,A2B2C2为最优参数组合,此结论对于提升针织服装缝制牢度及服用性能具有技术指导性。     

缝迹对针织物接缝强力的影响

分析了锁式线迹、包缝线迹对针织物接缝强力的影响,认为:缝有平缝和包缝线迹的针织物接缝强力均随着缝迹密度的增大而增大,而且,缝有包缝线迹的针织物接缝效率随缝迹密度的增大变化更快。研究结果对合理制定针织物缝合质量检验标准,指导生产实践具有一定的理论意义和实用价值。     

面料缝纫加工性能影响缝纫条件的选择

文中阐述了面料缝纫加工性能,分析了选择缝纫用线、缝迹缝型、机针及设备输送方式等缝纫条件;提出了合理地确定缝纫线张力、线迹密度、压脚压力及送布牙高度等缝纫工艺参数,以保证成衣产品的品质和外观的效果。     

面料弹性对服装缝制设备选型的影响

影响服装使用寿命的主要因素是面料强度和接缝强度.研究证明,接缝强度除了与缝线强度有关外,更与面料和接缝的弹性是否一致有关.文章通过实验分析了各种面料和缝迹的弹性,以利于缝制服装时选用合适的缝纫设备,使缝迹与织物的弹性保持一致,以提高缝制服装的质量.     

缝纫工艺参数对防静电织物的性能影响

为探究缝纫工艺参数对防静电织物静电压半衰期的影响,以嵌织导电纤维织物为研究对象,选取缝纫针针号、缝纫线种类、缝型、缝纫线细度、线迹密度5个缝纫工艺因素,各因素设定3个水平,设计正交实验方案,对不同缝纫工艺条件下织物的防静电性能进行测试和分析.结果表明:除线迹密度外,其余缝纫工艺参数对织物防静电性能均有显著影响,影响程度...     

贴体西裤穿着受力模拟及缝纫工艺参数优化

通过研究贴体西裤在实际穿着中的受力情况,模拟内侧缝处的缝口受力,实现缝口受力与服装实际受力情况吻合。采用条样法测试缝口拉伸性能,研究缝口拉伸角度对缝口断裂强度的影响。利用SPSS软件进行T检验分析,得出拉伸角度对缝口强度存在显著性影响。经正交试验、极差分析得出影响因素的主次顺序为:面料线迹密度缝线。面料选取成分为C/S 98/2的种类,获得60°拉伸时较高断裂强度的优方案为:缝线选用2股9.72tex纯涤纶线,线迹密度选取17针/3cm。     

当代服装设计中的"线"状

线作为服装设计因素和服装成型工艺材料之一,在服装中的作用非同小可。分析了决定服装的缝合质量与线迹效果的缝线、缝型与线迹三方面因素,以及在当今成衣设计中具有突破性的应用。     

正交设计优化薄型丝织物缝口纰裂缝制工艺研究

目前服装丝织产品在质检中常出现缝口纰裂现象从而影响其美观性和耐用性,为解决该问题,首先选取13种薄型丝织物作为研究对象,再采用L16(44×23)混合水平正交表,通过测试在不同缝纫条件下薄型丝织物缝口拉伸的纬向滑移量,分析并探讨各缝纫条件对缝口纰裂的影响.研究结果表明:线迹密度对缝口纰裂的影响最大,缝型对于缝口纰裂的影...     

Geometrical model to calculate the consumption of sewing thread for 301 lockstitch

Sewing thread is one of the most basic yet important components of a garment. Thread consumption for the lockstitch (Class 301) can be calculated by using its geometrical shape. This paper aims to develop a geometrical model to calculate the thread consumption for lockstitch (Class 301). Based on the basic geometry of lockstitch, a model has been proposed. The model is derived mathematically taking into account different variables: stitch length, stitch density, material thickness, and interlacing. Finally, the model was verified for 19 samples by comparing actual thread consumption with predicted thread consumption. The proposed model predicts the thread consumption with 97% accuracy. Sensitivity analysis is also performed to determine the significant influencing factor affecting the thread consumption. The proposed model can predict the thread consumption precisely for 301 lockstitch. Therefore, this model is useful for the apparel industry.     

Influence of some sewing parameters upon the sewing efficiency of denim fabrics

This paper reports an experimental investigation of the effect of the seam threads linear density, the stitch density and some fabric properties on the seam efficiency. Furthermore, on the basis of the seam quality parameters, regression models were determined in order to predict seam efficiency. In this work, 18 denim fabrics, having different compositions and masses, were sewn with two commercial sewing threads. Their performances, ranked according to the seam quality, were also determined. The seam efficiency was calculated by determining of the seam tensile strength and the fabric tensile strength. It was concluded that the increase in the seam thread linear density increases the seam efficiency, as well as the stitch density. However, the fabric mass has a random effect on seam efficiency. About the composition, we conclude that the seam efficiency decreases with polyester but increases with elastane. According to the seam direction, it was found that, in the weft direction, the seam efficiency was more important than in the warp direction.     

Compared basic stitch’s consumptions using image analysis,geometrical modelling and statistical techniques

This study deals with an evaluation of the sewing thread consumptions relative to the basic stitches shapes. Indeed, lockstitch type 301, three-overegged stitch type 504, chain stitch type 401 and safety stitch (five overegged stitch) type 516 are considered for this investigation. Hence, the overall analyzed consumption values are compared and discussed using different methods such as statistical, geometrical modelling and image analysis techniques. By classifying the comparative results, those obtained using image analysis and geometrical modelling techniques seem relevant. In fact, based on the differences investigated between experimental and theoretical consumptions, explained as error in percentage values, the image analysis technique is appears as the best method to evaluate the consumed thread amount. Even though, the errors are ranged from 0 to 3.89%, from 0.01 to 18.83% and from 0.17 to 18.98% for the image analysis, geometrical modelling and the statistical methods, respectively. These findings proved that the image analysis method presents the lowest error values; furthermore, it can be widely used by industrial to predict and evaluate the consumption values.     

Waste factor evaluation using theoretical and experimental jean pants consumptions

This paper focuses on a contribution of modeling consumption of sewing thread during clothing jeans classic pants. In fact, to determine accurately the amount of sewed thread used by assembly type needs to model widely the amount of thread in each stitch type taking into consideration the waste factor contributions. Several factors determine the extent of thread consumption in any sewn garment, such as seam length, stitch density, seam types, and material thickness. Nevertheless, the variability of factors depends on the different styles of garment that let thread consumption of sewn product categories such as jean pants, shirts, and jacket to be variable. However, these factors are not constant with the different styles of garment. Hence, thread consumption is never a standard for sewn product categories such as trousers, jackets, shirts, products lingerie, and footwear. Regarding the linear regression method results, it may be concluded that waste factor is correlated accurately with the experimental sewing thread consumption. Our findings show that developed theoretical consumption equations give more accurate values compared to experimental ones. Likewise, taking account of waste factor in our theoretical analysis helps to obtain objectively the real sewing thread consumption value.     

Analyzing the effects of special washing processes on characteristics of sewing threads

In recent years, wet (washing, bleaching, etc.) and dry (abrasive, laser shaping, rodeo, etc.) operations applied on fashion denim products have become an important factor to increase the added value. However, these wet and dry processes applied to the denim products may have adverse effects on the strength of the fabric and other supplementary materials of denim products. For example, thread breakages affect the repair ratios and quality of products, which causes time and profitability losses in companies. The main objective of this study is to analyse how the types of washing affect the strength of the sewing threads that are commonly used in the production of denim trousers. In this study, 100% cotton denim fabric with a weight of 11.5 ounces and two different sewing threads were used. The fabrics are sewn as trouser legs with chain and lock stitch. Five different washes were applied to the trouser legs. The obtained data were evaluated in the R statistical program. As a result of the analyses made it is proven that the washing techniques used have an effect on the sewing threads’ tensile strength and elongation at break. The tensile strengths of lock stitch and chain stitch decrease averagely 35% and elongation at break of lock stitch decreases %22 and chain stitch decreases 29.8%.     

Geometrical model to calculate the consumption of sewing thread for 504 over-edge stitch

Sewing thread is one of the most important components of a sewn product that contributes significantly in the useful life of a product. Stitch class 504 is the one which is used in all types of sewn products. Its thread consumption is higher than class 300 and class 400. A mathematical model to predict the sewing thread consumption of stitch class 504 has been proposed in this paper. The model is based on the geometry of the stitch. The proposed model takes into account material thickness and stitch density. The model was validated by using 24 samples (with different material thickness and stitch densities). The accuracy of the model was found to be 99%. Sensitivity analysis revealed that stitch density has 62% effect and material thickness has 38% effect on thread consumption. The proposed model can predict the thread consumption accurately; therefore, it can be used for better estimation of required thread and encourage its better utilization in sewn product industry.     

使用PTT弹性缝纫线SabaFlex达到最佳的线缝弹性

弹性材料的广泛应用更需要注重服装加工中的线缝弹性。通过针型、针密、线的张力来控制线缝弹性已不能满足当今要求。Amann&Sohne公司开发的SabaFlex是一种高弹性的缝纫线,通过试验证明是解决弹性材料加工的一种创新方法。