Infant skin physiology and development during the first years of life: a review of recent findings based on in vivo studies

Infant skin is often presented as the cosmetic ideal for adults. However, compared to adult skin it seems to be more prone to develop certain pathological conditions, such as atopic dermatitis and irritant contact dermatitis. Therefore, understanding the physiology of healthy infant skin as a point of reference is of interest both from the cosmetic as well as from the clinical point of view. Clinical research on healthy infants is, however, limited because of ethical considerations of using invasive methods and therefore until recently data has been scarce. Technical innovations and the availability of non‐invasive in vivo techniques, such as evaporimetry, electrical impedance measurement, in vivo video and confocal microscopy, and in vivo fibre‐optic based spectroscopy, opened up the field of in vivo infant skin physiology research. Studies incorporating such methods have demonstrated that compared to adult, infant skin continues to develop during the first years of life. Specifically, infant skin appears to have thinner epidermis and stratum corneum (SC) as well as smaller corneocytes at least until the second year of life. The water‐handling properties are not fully developed before the end of the first year and infant SC contains more water and less amounts of natural moisturizing factors. Such findings re‐evaluate the old notions that skin is fully matured at birth. Armed with this knowledge, we are in a position not only to better understand infant dermatological conditions but also to design better skin care products respecting the distinct qualities of infant skin.     

Confocal Raman microspectroscopy of stratum corneum: a pre-clinical validation study

Skin moisturization is not only important for maintaining skin functional properties but also has great impact on the skin's aesthetic properties. The top layer of the skin, the stratum corneum (SC), plays a key role in protecting and preventing against external aggressions as well as in regulating water flux in and out. Confocal Raman microspectroscopy is the first commercially available technique that provides a non-invasive, in vivo method to determine depth profiles of water concentration in the skin, however, in this case it was applied in an in vitro setting. As the first phase of validating the usefulness of confocal Raman microspectroscopy, we used porcine skin as a surrogate for human skin. Water concentration profiles were obtained using confocal Raman microspectroscopy from isolated pigskin SC and compared with that using the Karl Fischer titration method. The two methods correlated very well with a regression coefficient of 1.07 as well as a correlation coefficient, R(2) = 0.989, which demonstrated the consistency and accuracy of confocal Raman microspectroscopy for water concentration determination. To evaluate the instrument's response to different skin care/cleansing products, a wide range of products were tested to compare their skin moisturization ability. Among those tested were a lotion, commercial soap bar, syndet bar, traditional non-emollient shower gel (water, Sodium Laureth Ether Sulfate (SLES), cocamidopropyl betaine system) and emollient containing shower gel (water, sunflower oil, SLES, cocamidopropyl betaine, glycerin, petrolatum). The results were consistent with what was expected. The water content on skin treated with (A) lotion was significantly higher than the non-treated control; (B) syndet bar-treated skin had a significantly higher water content than soap-based bar-treated sites; (C) non-emollient shower gel washed sites were more moisturized than soap-based bar-treated samples; and (D) emollient shower gel-treated skin was significantly more hydrated than non-emollient shower gel washed skin. The unique and direct quantitative water content information provided by confocal Raman microspectroscopy offers a whole new perspective for fundamental skin moisturization studies and will play an important role in evaluating moisturizing profiles and the hydration potential of products designed for personal care in the cosmetic industry.     

Investigation of interactions between silicones and stratum corneum lipids

Ingredients of topically applied skin care formulations have not only positive effects on the appearance of human skin but can also disturb the Stratum corneum (SC) lipid barrier. In the present study, the influence of silicones (PDMS), as often used cosmetic ingredients, on the microstructure of SC lipids was investigated. For this purpose the interactions of four different PDMS with excised human SC were examined first using differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) and wide angle X-ray diffraction for physical characterization. Because the physical properties of human stratum corneum strongly depend on the lipid composition, showing inter-and intra-individual differences, the interactions with an in vitro model lipid system containing SC fatty acids were also studied, using polarized light microscopy, transmission electron microscopy, small angle X-ray diffraction and DSC. The results revealed that the investigated PDMS do not change either the microstructure of excised human SC or the biphasic lamellar/inverse hexagonal structure of the in vitro model. We concluded that PDMS will not cause any side-effects when topically applied and that our simplified in vitro model could be helpful for estimating interactions between cosmetic ingredients and other topically applied substances and the skin barrier at an early moment of formulation development.     

Drying stress and damage processes in human stratum corneum

The drying stresses that develop in stratum corneum (SC) are crucial for its mechanical and biophysical function, its cosmetic feel and appearance, and play a central role in processes of dry skin damage. However, quantitative methods to characterize these stresses are lacking and little understanding exists regarding the effects of drying environment, chemical exposures and moisturizing treatments. We describe the application of a substrate curvature technique adapted for biological tissue to accurately characterize SC drying stresses as a function of time following environmental pre‐conditioning and chemical treatment in a range of drying environments. SC stresses were observed to increase to stress levels of up to ～ 3 MPa over periods of 8 h depending on pretreatment and drying environment. A unique relationship between the SC stress and water in the drying environment was established. The effect of glycerol on lowering SC stresses and damaging surfactants on elevating SC stresses were quantified. Extensions of the method to continuous monitoring of SC stresses in response to changes in environmental moisture content and temperature are reported. Finally, a biomechanics framework to account for the SC drying stress as a mechanical driving force for dry skin damage is presented.     

Superior effect of isostearyl isostearate on improvement in stratum corneum water permeability barrier function as examined by the plastic occlusion stress test

Dry skin is a major dermatological problem and consumer research indicates that although current moisturizers are effective they are not completely meeting consumer expectation. Several technological approaches have been taken but influencing stratum corneum (SC) lipid phase behaviour as a novel water permeability barrier‐enhancing and moisturizing mechanism has only been started to be investigated recently. Both the long periodicity SC lipid lamellar phase and the orthorhombic lipid packing state have been proposed to define optimal SC water permeability barrier properties. Several lipophillic moisturizers have been tested for their ability to modify SC lipid lateral packing namely glyceryl monoisostearate (GMIS), isopropyl isostearate (IPIS) and isostearyl isostearate (ISIS) of which IPIS and ISIS are reported to induce the orthorhombic phase. Despite the improvements in the lateral packing of SC lipids, these ingredients have been shown not to improve transepidermal water loss. However, using a novel skin surface water loss method we have observed for the first time significant improvements in SC water permeability barrier function for ISIS compared with IPIS, GMIS and petrolatum. However, using synthetic membranes and measuring water vapour transport rates we showed that the isostearyl esters were not occlusive like petrolatum. As the effects of ISIS were not because of what would be considered as true occlusion, we propose that the differences in the SC water permeability barrier properties from use of ISIS to the other ingredients tested are because of its reported effects on SC lipid phase behaviour. Further studies probably using spectroscopic approaches, however, will be needed to specifically test this hypothesis in vivo.     

Location‐related differences in structure and function of the stratum corneum with special emphasis on those of the facial skin

Between the two different kinds of the skin covering the body, the glabrous skin is found only on the palmo‐plantar surface because of its rather simple function to protect the underlying living tissue with its remarkably thick stratum corneum (SC) from strong external force and friction. Thus, its barrier function is extremely poor. In contrast, the hair‐bearing skin covers almost all over the body surface regardless of the presence of long hair or vellus hair. In regard to its SC, many dermatologists and skin scientists think that it is too thin to show any site‐specific differences, because the SC is just present as an efficient barrier membrane to protect our body from desiccation as well as against the invasion by external injurious agents. However, there are remarkable regional differences not only in the living skin tissue but also even in such thin SC reflecting the function of each anatomical location. These differences in the SC have been mostly disclosed with the advent of non‐invasive biophysical instruments, particularly the one that enables us to measure transepidermal water loss (TEWL), the parameter of the SC barrier function, and the one that evaluates the hydration state of the skin surface, the parameter of the water‐holding capacity of the SC that brings about softness and smoothness to the skin surface. These in vivo instrumental measurements of the SC have disclosed the presence of remarkable differences in the functional properties of the SC particularly between the face and other portions of the body. The SC of the facial skin is thinner, being composed of smaller layers of corneocytes than that of the trunk and limbs. It shows unique functional characteristics to provide hydrated skin surface but relatively poor barrier function, which is similar to that observed in retinoid‐treated skin or to that of fresh scar or keloidal scars. Moreover, there even exist unexpected, site‐dependent differences in the SC of the facial skin such as the forehead, eyelid, cheek, nose and perioral regions, although each location occupies only a small area. Between these locations, the cheek shows the lowest TEWL in contrast to the perioral region that reveals the highest one. Moreover, these features are not static but change with age particularly between children and adults and maybe also between genders. Among various facial locations, the eyelid skin is distinct from others because its SC is associated with poor skin surface lipids and a thin SC cell layer composed of large corneocytes that brings about high surface hydration state but poor barrier function, whereas the vermillion borders of the lips that are covered by an exposed part of the oral mucosa exhibit remarkably poor barrier function and low hydration state. Future studies aiming at the establishment of the functional mapping in each facial region and in other body regions will shed light on more delicate site‐dependent differences, which will provide us important information in planning the strategy to start so called tailor‐made skin care for each location of the body.     

The effect of an amphiphilic self‐assembled lipid lamellar phase on the relief of dry skin

Humectant and occlusive technologies have traditionally been used for the treatment of dry skin. Originally, non‐lamellar‐forming ingredients were used such as petrolatum but recent research has shown the advantage of using lamellar‐forming ingredients such as ceramides, pseudoceramides and phospholipids in the relief of dry skin. Nevertheless, the importance of using lipid‐phase transition inducers, such as long‐chain fatty acids, has not been studied clinically. The evaluation of a novel complex of lipophilic ingredients was of interest: cetyl alcohol, isostearyl isostearate, potassium cetyl phosphate, cetyl behenate and behenic acid. The combination of all these ingredients was shown to be more effective than any single component in water vapour transmission rate studies. This was thought to be owing to the formation of a unique structural organization of the lipids upon dry‐down from an O/W emulsion as was examined by X‐ray diffraction and optical microscopy. When evaluated clinically in a randomized double‐blind and vehicle‐controlled moisturization efficacy trial, this novel blend of ingredients was shown to not only improve the visible signs of skin dryness to a significantly greater extent than a comparable mineral oil‐containing vehicle but also then maintain a better skin condition during the regression no‐treatment phase of the study. This combination of ingredients offers a new technology option for the treatment of dry skin.     

The Outermost Stratum Corneum Layer is an Effective Barrier Against Dermal Uptake of Topically Applied Micronized Titanium Dioxide

In order to help clarify the controversially discussed dermal uptake properties of micronized titanium dioxide (TiO _ 2), we conducted extensive in vitro dermal absorption studies with 'Franz-type' diffusion cells on excised porcine skin. After biopsies and chemical fixation, the overall localization of TiO _ 2 in the skin was analyzed by means of transmission electron microscopy (TEM). The lateral and vertical distribution of TiO _ 2 within the stratum corneum (SC) was investigated by tape stripping and subsequent scanning electron microscopy (SEM) in combination with energy dispersive X-ray analysis (EDXA). TiO _ 2 was found exclusively on the outermost SC layer. The surface deposit, as displayed by TEM, featured clearly distinguishable agglomerates as well as single particles with a characteristic cubic shape and a primary particle size of about 20-50 nm. Concurrently, SEM/EDXA micrographs first showed an even distribution of TiO _ 2 on the skin surface. After 10-fold stripping, however, TiO _ 2 was found to be localized only in the furrows and not on the partially removed ridges of the skin surface. SEM/EDXA micrographs of the adhesive tape strips revealed a characteristic pattern of stripped material and free regions. This pattern was an imprint of the skin's topography. Hence, tape stripping initially removed TiO _ 2 and SC layers only from the ridges and not from the deeper furrows. Continued stripping increasingly yielded material from the deeper contours of the SC surface. TiO _ 2 was found only in traces in the upper part of the follicle without any evidence of uptake into the follicular epithelium. This indicates that there is not any relevant penetration via the follicular route. We conclude that due to the microtopography of the skin, the strip number normally does not reflect the SC layer number. Accordingly, tape stripping results should always be interpreted with care, especially in the case of topically applied particles, as even higher numbers of subsequent strips may still sample material from the outermost SC layer of the deeper furrows, which could be interpreted falsely as penetrated material. Our results clearly demonstrate that TiO _ 2 homogeneously and completely covers the outermost SC layer. It is neither delivered to the SC nor to the underlying skin layers when applied topically to porcine skin in vitro in the cosmetic vehicle used here. These findings underscore the safety of this micronized inorganic UV filter.     

A review on the extensive skin benefits of mineral oil

This review was initially prepared in 2011 before Professor Johann Wiechers tragically passed away. It has been updated and is being published in his memory. It discusses the importance of mineral oil and its benefits to skin. Its source, structure, properties and efficacy are discussed. Mineral oil has been shown to improve skin softness and barrier function better than some other emollients using the gas‐bearing dynamometer and standard water vapour transmission testing as well as in vivo studies showing its effects on suppressing transepidermal water loss (TEWL). It has also been subjected to the rigour of the newer in vivo confocal microscopic measurements now used for testing the performance of moisturizers by following the swelling characteristics of the stratum corneum and been found favourable compared with many vegetable oils. Its introduction as a cosmetic oil was in the late 1800s, and still today, it is used as one of the main components of moisturizers, a true testament to its cost to efficacy window. Naturally, it has physical effects on the stratum corneum, but it is expected that these will translate into biological effects simply through its mechanism of hydrating and occluding the stratum corneum from which many benefits are derived.     

Material design using genetic algorithms and preparation of innovative UV-reflecting composite

The neck is a sun-exposed area. It seems to show the symptoms of photo-ageing as well as facial skin in the elderly. However, the physiological study of neck skin has hardly been reported. We examined the change of skin physiological properties at a neck site with ageing for 61 women (18—69 years old) compared with a cheek site. Water content in stratum corneum (SC) was higher, transepidermal water loss (TEWL) was lower and the turnover rate of SC judged from corneocyte area was slower at the neck site compared with the cheek site. Skin thickness was thinner, skin extensibility and elasticity were higher, skin grooves were deeper, and anisotropy of skin furrows was lower at the neck site than those at the cheek site. It was shown that the neck was also affected by sunlight but not so much as the cheek from the result of gelatinase activity detected in the tape stripped SC. Skin elasticity decreased with ageing at the neck site as well as the cheek site. Fine wrinkles were remarkably increased in the direction of Langer's line with ageing at the neck. Most skin physiological parameters at the neck showed the value between the cheek (heavily sun-exposed area) and back (not sun-exposed area). From these results, it was considered that not only intrinsic ageing but also photo-ageing affected the neck skin. We developed the prototype of cosmetics corresponding to neck skin physiology based on these results, and evaluated the effectiveness of the prototype product by a consumer test including skin measurement for 4 weeks. After treatment, water content increased, and it gave satisfaction in the skin colour brightness, skin elasticity and skin texture improvements for almost all volunteers. It was concluded that the prototype product was useful in neck skin treatment.     

Non-invasive assessment of stratum corneum structure and function

Methods for the study of the stratum corneum in situ are described and their application to clinical problems and cosmetic science are discussed. In vivo measurements of the thickness of skin and the components of skin can be made using high frequency pulsed ultrasound. Improved resolution of the device should allow measurement of epidermal thickness, and even that of the stratum corneum, which may vary with hydration. The protective ability of the stratum corneum can be estimated in a number of ways, the most familiar technique being transepidermal water loss measurements. Mechanical properties of the stratum corneum have been widely investigated in vivo by numerous researchers. A recent technique devised by us to deform the stratum corneum using an extendable metal frame has been used on patients with ichthyotic disorders. The deformation or compliance of the skin surface has been measured using profilometric methods, and compared to normal individuals. The results appear to be in agreement with the loss of flexural ability experienced by ichthyotic patients. Other mechanical methods more usually involve the measurement of the forces generated by skin while undergoing extension. Three techniques are described which have been used to investigate hydrational change with emollient application. Finally, the phenomenon of desquamation is discussed and methods presented for its evaluation. Passive collection of corneocytes using chambers is useful for estimation of the rates of desquamation, but are laborious and inconvenient. Forced desquamation using the desquamator enables rapid controlled harvesting of corneocytes. In addition to this, the dansyl chloride fluorescence technique has been adopted for estimation of stratum corneum kinetics using visual comparison and fluorimetric techniques. These techniques require further refinement and validation, but the tests available now are nonetheless important in understanding the biology and pharmacology of the stratum corneum.     

Formulation and stability of a novel artificial sebum under conditions of storage and use

Materials in contact with liquids on the human skin surface may dissolve and permeate into skin. Release and permeation of chemicals in contact with skin is often estimated in vitro using artificial skin liquids, although sebum lipids are generally not included in these models. The purposes of this research were to develop a representative artificial sebum that contains the appropriate types of lipids at levels that match human values and quantitatively characterize the model to understand its utility for in vitro testing. Artificial sebum that consisted of 10 lipids at proportions that closely resembled human sebum was characterized using thin layer chromatography under a variety of storage and use conditions (dry and liquid, 4°C and 32°C, with and without vitamin E) for 28 days. Levels of sebum constituents maintained in solution and dry at 4°C were stable through the duration of the test period. Levels of all sebum lipids maintained dry at 32°C were stable in the presence of vitamin E; however, squalene oxidized rapidly in the absence of vitamin E. Liquids on the human skin surface consist of sebum and sweat with minor amounts of cellular debris and intercellular lipid from the stratum corneum. The relative importance of each component for release of chemicals from materials in contact with skin will depend upon the type of material (metal, organic, etc.). A model artificial sebum was formulated and characterized to aid researchers in understanding potential release of chemicals from materials in contact with skin and subsequent partitioning and absorption.     

Trends in stratum corneum research and the management of dry skin conditions

The structure, composition, formation and function of the stratum corneum have been the subject of intense research over the last few decades. As has become apparent, stratum corneum barrier function is not only dependent on one single component but also on its total architecture. Recent developments in understanding lipid composition have led to a new ceramide nomenclature system, a new proposal for a molecular model of the interactions between ceramides, cholesterol and fatty acids, and the demonstration of the presence of crystalline orthorhombic and gel hexagonal lipid phases in the stratum corneum. Linoleate-containing ceramide one, now known as CER EOS, have been shown to be essential for the formation of the 13 nm long periodicity phase (LPP) observed by electron microscopy and X-ray diffraction studies, whereas long-chain fatty acids are important for the formation of the crystalline lipid phases essential for barrier function. The role of the corneocyte envelope, its constituent proteins and its transglutaminase-mediated maturation processes have been shown to be essential for good skin condition. Several proteases may have a role in corneodesmolysis, particularly serine and cathepsin-like enzymes. Novel filaggrin polymorphisms have been identified that may be involved in the expression of a dry skin phenotype. Disturbances in lipid packing states, reduction in ceramide levels (particularly the phytosphingosine-containing ceramides), reductions in the levels of long-chain fatty acids and loss of the LPP largely account for the perturbations in lipid structure that occur in dry skin. The reduced corneodesmolysis that occurs in this xerotic skin disorder is now well accepted and is caused by reductions in the levels and activities of stratum corneum proteases together with elevated levels of corneodesmosomal glycoproteins in the superficial layers of the stratum corneum. Additionally, increased levels of fragile corneocytes are associated with reduced transglutaminase activity and corneocyte envelope cross-linking events. However, in comparison with the advances in our understanding of the textural changes that occur in dry skin, the somatosensory changes are poorly understood and the itching associated with dry skin is still an under-researched area. The unique biosensor role of the stratum corneum essential for a competent natural moisturizing barrier may also have a role to play in the action of anti-ageing technologies by controlling the expression and secretion of epidermal cytokines and growth factors. Technologies to treat the surface textural skin problems, enhance the differentiation process, particularly lipid biosynthesis, and to control the somatosensory problems in dry skin have received much attention in the last decade. This paper will review the state of the art of stratum corneum biology and the trends in the management of dry skin.     

Effect of São Pedro do Sul thermal water on skin irritation

Many mineral waters are known for centuries for treating dermatological diseases but there is little scientific evaluation of the effects of these waters in skin. A total of 17 healthy Caucasian volunteers, including men and women, were enrolled in this study. Two skin sites were marked on each volunteer forearm and irritated with sodium lauryl sulphate at 2% (w/v) kept under occlusion for 24 h with Finn chambers. Afterwards, purified water or São Pedro do Sul (SPS) thermal water were applied to the irritated skin sites, and kept under occlusion for 48 h also with Finn chambers. Transepidermal water loss (TEWL) was used as a measure of the skin barrier function to evaluate the potential anti‐irritant effect of the thermal water on skin. Statistically significant differences in the mean TEWL variations were observed for the skin treated with SPS thermal water and with purified water (P = 0.036). The thermal water reduced the degree to which the skin barrier was disrupted compared with purified water alone in 82.4% of the volunteers. The SPS thermal water is anti‐irritant and, therefore, can be helpful to relieve skin irritation and in cosmetic formulations to improve the tolerability of the products.     

Increased basal transepidermal water loss leads to elevation of some but not all stratum corneum serine proteases

There are indications of elevation of some inflammatory serine proteases in barrier damaged skin (e.g. plasmin and urokinase). Moreover, many other serine protease activities are present such as desquamatory enzymes as well as a newly detected tryptase‐like serine protease. However, the activities of these proteases have never been correlated with stratum corneum (SC) barrier function. The activity of extractable key serine proteases (SC trypsin‐like kallikreins, SC chymotrypsin‐like kallikreins, SC tryptase‐like serine protease, urokinase and plasmin) was measured from the outermost layers of SC obtained from facial tape strippings in clinically normal subjects. The protein content of the tape strippings was quantified by absorption measurements with the novel infrared densitometer SquameScan^TM 850A and the protease activities by the use of fluorogenic peptide substrates. SC barrier function, SC hydration and skin surface pH were measured using AquaFlux^TM, NOVA dermal phase meter and Skin‐pH‐Meter^®, respectively. As expected, SC hydration was reduced with increased transepidermal water loss (TEWL) values indicative of barrier impairment. Surprisingly, SC chymotrypsin‐like activity showed no correlation with hydration or TEWL, whereas all other enzymes positively correlated with impaired barrier function and some were statistically significant: SC trypsin‐like kallikreins (R² = 0.66, P < 0.01), SC tryptase‐like enzyme (R² = 0.95, P < 0.001), plasmin (R² = 0.86, P < 0.001) and urokinase (R² = 0.50, P < 0.05). All enzymes except urokinase also negatively correlated with SC hydration. Elevated levels of SC serine proteases have been associated with some dermatological disorders, such as atopic dermatitis, psoriasis and rosacea but these results indicate that these enzymes are also elevated with milder forms of barrier disruption, which is not clinically evident as irritated skin. As these proteases are elevated in the SC, they will also be elevated in the epidermis where they can be involved in neurogenic inflammation and epidermal barrier impairment via activation of the protease‐activated receptors. These results highlight the need for using serine protease inhibitors especially for urokinase and plasmin, SC tryptase‐like serine protease and possibly SC trypsin‐like kallikreins even in milder forms of barrier damage.     

Temperature as a moisture cue in haptics on hair

A mechanism for giving a moisturized or dried‐out feeling to hair was investigated. A two‐step approach was conducted in order to elucidate the issue. First, we have reviewed previous studies that are related to the sensory perception of materials not only in cosmetic industry but also in other fields, such as textile and architecture industries, and established a hypothesis. Second, we have verified the hypothesis derived from the first step and identified the mechanism for the moisturized or dried‐out feeling that people feel by measuring the heat transfer characteristic, q_max. The results revealed that the moisturized or dried‐out feeling that people feel at the moment of contact with hair was highly related to the temperature drop at the skin surface. The results also revealed that the moisturized or dried‐out feeling strongly depends on the hair shape (meandering and diameter), surface damage and the water content of hair fibres which constitute the hair swatch. The moisturized feeling, however, was not related to the water content of hair fibres at a constant relative humidity (RH), as the differences in the water content of the hair fibres at a constant RH were too small for the recognition of the difference in the moisturized feeling.     

Human synthetic sebum formulation and stability under conditions of use and storage

The human skin surface and hair are generally coated with a thin film of liquid phase sebaceous lipids. This surface lipid film contributes to the cosmetic properties of the skin. Synthetic sebum has been used for studies on properties of skin and hair. However, there has been no standardized formulation of synthetic sebum and many of the synthetic sebum formulations that have been used do not closely resemble actual sebum. In this study, a formulation for a standardized and inexpensive synthetic sebum is proposed, and the chemical stability of this lipid mixture is demonstrated under conditions of use and storage. The proposed synthetic sebum consists of 17% fatty acid, 44.7% triglyceride, 25% wax monoester (jojoba oil) and 12.4% squalene. This lipid mixture takes up approximately 6% of its weight in water when equilibrated in an atmosphere saturated with water vapour. It is stable on exposure to the atmosphere at 32°C for at least 48 h, and it is also stable on storage at 4 or −20°C, either dry or in chloroform : methanol solution for at least 6 months. This synthetic sebum could be useful in studies on cosmetic properties of the skin surface or hair, on penetration of chemicals into the skin or in development of standardized tests of laundry detergent performance.     

Saccharomyces cerevisiae fermentation product in dairy cow diets containing dried distillers grains plus solubles

Sixteen multiparous Holstein cows (127 ± 52 d in milk) were used in 4 replicated 4 × 4 Latin squares with 4-wk periods to evaluate interactions of dietary inclusion of a fermentation product of Saccharomyces cerevisiae (SC; XPC, Diamond V Mills, Cedar Rapids, IA) and dried distillers grains plus solubles (DDGS) on production of milk and milk components when fed diets containing approximately 30% dietary neutral detergent fiber with calculated forage neutral detergent fiber of 19.3% of diet dry matter (DM). Treatments were a 2 × 2 factorial arrangement with SC included at 0 or 14 g/d and DDGS at 0 or 20% of diet DM. Diets consisted of 27% corn silage, 18% alfalfa hay, and 55% concentrate mix on a DM basis. Diets not containing DDGS included additional corn, soybean meal, expeller soybean meal, soyhulls, and rumen inert fat to remain isocaloric and isonitrogenous with DDGS diets. Dry matter intake (26.0 kg/d) was similar for all diets. Milk production increased with the addition of SC to diets (43.6 vs. 42.0 kg/d for diets without SC) and decreased for cows fed diets containing DDGS (42.0 kg/d vs. 43.6 kg/d for diets not containing DDGS). Milk fat percentage (3.05 vs. 3.22% for DDGS and non-DDGS diets, respectively) and yield (1.27 vs. 1.41 kg/d) were decreased by the addition of DDGS but were not affected by the addition of SC. Concentrations of long-chain, polyunsaturated, trans-, and conjugated fatty acids in milk of cows fed DDGS were increased, but milk fatty acid profiles were not affected by SC. Milk true protein concentrations were similar for all diets; however, the addition of SC increased yield of true protein (1.32 vs. 1.27 kg/d). Concentrations of milk urea nitrogen increased when SC was included in the diet with DDGS. The DDGS decreased yields of energy-corrected milk (39.4 vs. 42.1 kg/d) and tended to decrease feed efficiency (1.53 vs. 1.61 kg of energy-corrected milk/kg of dry matter intake). Body weights and condition scores were not affected by treatments. Results suggest that diets containing minimal amounts of forage fiber and DDGS at 20% of diet DM will contribute to decreased milk production and milk fat depression. The addition of SC did improve milk and milk protein yields but did not prevent milk fat depression caused by DDGS. Production responses to SC were similar when cows were fed DDGS or non-DDGS diets.     

Natural skin surface pH is on average below 5, which is beneficial for its resident flora

Variable skin pH values are being reported in literature, all in the acidic range but with a broad range from pH 4.0 to 7.0. In a multicentre study (N = 330), we have assessed the skin surface pH of the volar forearm before and after refraining from showering and cosmetic product application for 24 h. The average pH dropped from 5.12 +/- 0.56 to 4.93 +/- 0.45. On the basis of this pH drop, it is estimated that the 'natural' skin surface pH is on average 4.7, i.e. below 5. This is in line with existing literature, where a relatively large number of reports (c. 50%) actually describes pH values below 5.0; this is in contrast to the general assumption, that skin surface pH is on average between 5.0 and 6.0. Not only prior use of cosmetic products, especially soaps, have profound influence on skin surface pH, but the use of plain tap water, in Europe with a pH value generally around 8.0, will increase skin pH up to 6 h after application before returning to its 'natural' value of on average below 5.0. It is demonstrated that skin with pH values below 5.0 is in a better condition than skin with pH values above 5.0, as shown by measuring the biophysical parameters of barrier function, moisturization and scaling. The effect of pH on adhesion of resident skin microflora was also assessed; an acid skin pH (4-4.5) keeps the resident bacterial flora attached to the skin, whereas an alkaline pH (8-9) promotes the dispersal from the skin.