改性聚丙烯酸类纤维吸湿发热机织物的开发

为研究吸湿发热保暖机织物的热湿舒适性,开发了6种不同结构的改性聚丙烯酸类纤维吸湿发热机织物。通过热湿舒适相关性能测试与分析,得出不同机织物结构参数对透气性、热阻、芯吸高度、液态水分管理以及吸湿发热性能的影响规律,为设计出兼具吸湿发热和导湿排汗性能的热湿舒适机织物提供参考。经测试发现:蜂巢组织能明显改善织物的保暖性和透气性,且织物由内层向外层形成回潮率递增的梯度结构,对水分管理和提高单向导湿性能有积极作用,三层蜂巢组织在提升织物吸湿发热性能上具有一定潜力。     

多组分发热保暖针织物的热湿舒适性评价

采用EKS纤维、德绒纤维、腈纶、黏胶纤维和蛋白黏胶纤维设计组织结构相同、面密度相近的针织面料,测试织物的透湿性、芯吸性能、保暖性、吸湿发热性能和透气性等指标,进而研究不同比例纤维混纺针织物的热湿舒适性能。基于试验数据和结果分析,利用模糊数学综合评价方法对面料的热湿舒适性能进行客观评价。结果表明:纤维组成及混纺比为EKS纤维/德绒纤维/蛋白黏胶纤维30/30/40,纱线线密度为14.6 tex时,混纺针织物热湿舒适性能最优。     

基于吸湿发热纤维的毛型面料开发

为充分发挥新型功能纤维的特性,开发有产业化潜力的新型纺织产品,以EKS纤维(亚丙烯酸盐系纤维)和舒热丝纤维(改性聚丙烯酸类纤维)2种吸湿发热纤维为基础原料,设计开发具有吸湿发热保暖功能的毛型织物。对EKS纤维、舒热丝纤维及普通腈纶的结构和基本性能进行测试和对比,分析EKS纤维和舒热丝纤维吸湿发热的功能机制。试纺开发了以EKS纤维、舒热丝纤维为功能原料的混纺纱,并设计织造了相应织物。对织物的吸湿发热性能、保暖性能、透气性能和透湿性能进行测试,进一步分析了纤维原料和组织结构对织物吸湿发热和保暖性能的影响,结果表明开发的面料均具有显著的吸湿发热效果。文章为热湿舒适性毛型面料设计及产业化开发提供理论指导和经验参考。     

吸湿散热针织面料的开发及性能研究

以吸湿排汗纱线凉爽纱和散热降温纱线云母纱为原料,在针织大圆机上编织出蜂巢组织(3种纱线配置)、横条组织(1种纱线配置)及双罗纹组织(3种纱线配置),共7种织物。分别测试了它们的透气性、透湿性、吸湿速干性及热传递性能等,结果表明:凉爽纱优良的吸湿排汗效果和云母纱良好的降温散热效果结合,面料具有良好的吸湿散热功能;集圈网眼组织的织物综合热湿舒适性能较罗纹组织织物的好,该类面料可用于开发运动休闲类服装。     

吸湿发热机织面料的设计与性能

为开发一种具有优良的吸湿发热性能的机织面料,以改性聚丙烯腈纤维为原料,将该纤维与棉混纺作为外包纱,氨纶长丝为芯纱,制备了具有吸湿发热性能的包芯纱线。将试纺出的包芯纱织成平纹、2/1右斜纹、双层组织、蜂巢组织4种不同组织结构的面料,对所得面料进行透气性、透湿性、保暖性和吸湿发热性能测试,并分析了纤维配比及组织结构对织物吸湿发热性能的影响。结果表明：织造的16块面料均有不同程度的发热效果,随着改性聚丙烯腈纤维含量的增加,面料的发热效果变好。纤维含量相同时,蜂巢组织面料的发热效果较好。综合看来,改性聚丙烯腈纤维/棉80/20蜂巢组织面料的发热效果最好。     

自发热针织内衣的研究与开发

采用不同组分配比的Softwarm纤维纱线在针织大圆机上编织吸湿发热功能针织内衣面料,并测试面料的顶破性能、悬垂性、热湿舒适性、保暖性,分析基于人体热湿舒适性需求的针织内衣面料的原料选择与组织结构拼接设计。结果表明,含涤纶的吸湿发热织物与普通涤棉织物相比强力低、透气透湿性差、顶破强力差,但悬垂性更优,保暖性较好;不含涤纶的吸湿发热织物的透气透湿性、悬垂性和保暖性均优于普通棉涤混纺面料、莫代尔针织内衣;Softwarm自发热纤维可用于开发轻薄保暖织物;同时提出基于热湿舒适性分区设计的针织内衣面料拼接设计思路。     

十字形涤纶机织物的吸湿排汗性能

为了解十字形涤纶机织物吸湿排汗性能,利用不同结构的十字形涤纶混纺纱线,设计开发了平纹和斜纹组织的交织物,并对其吸湿排汗性能如吸湿性、透气性、透湿性、吸水性及干燥性等进行测试,分析了纤维含量及织物结构对吸湿排汗性能的影响。测试结果表明,纤维含量及织物结构对十字形涤纶机织物的吸湿排汗性能都有一定的影响。     

织物组织结构对机织物吸湿速干性能的影响分析

为研究织物组织结构对机织物吸湿速干性能的影响,以75 D/72 F十字截面涤纶长丝与7.29 tex(80S)纯棉纱的复合纱为原料,设计并织造5种不同组织结构的机织物。采用热板法测试不同组织结构机织物的吸湿速干性能,对试验结果进行分析。结果表明:5种机织物的干燥速率大小为平纹透孔斜纹缎纹蜂巢,其干燥速率与织物组织结构和织物厚度有关。通过对5种机织物吸湿速干性能的分析,为纺织企业生产吸湿速干机织物提供参考。     

吸湿快干型凉爽织物的开发及性能研究

以云母/竹浆纤维的混纺纱作为原料,以织物热舒适性和纤维导湿理论为依据,设计并开发了平纹、花式透孔、斜纹和麦粒4种组织结构的吸湿快干型凉爽织物。同时对这4种组织织物的基本服用性能和吸湿快干凉爽性能进行测试,分析得出开发的4种织物均具有吸湿快干的凉爽性能,其中麦粒组织为吸湿快干凉爽性能最佳的织物。     

中空异形涤纶面料性能研究

中空异形涤纶纤维具有吸湿排汗和保暖性能,它采用了全新的纤维截面设计,将毛细管原理应用于纤维和纱线结构,使织物能够快速导湿、扩散和挥发汗液,从而保持人体皮肤的干爽感,达到提高织物舒适性目的.对中空异形涤纶、Coolmax、Coolbst、普通涤纶纤维等机织物的热湿性能进行了测试分析,认为该纤维保暖性能突出,但透气性及透湿汽性较差.     

The effect of different knitted fabrics’ structures on the moisture transport properties

In this study, fabrics with different plain, tuck and float stitch combinations in three different tightness levels as tight, medium and loose are produced from combed ring spun cotton yarn. It is aimed at determining the effect of fabric structure on liquid absorption, transport and permeability properties, which are important factors in the people’s perception of wear comfort. The air permeability, wicking ability and moisture management measurements of the produced fabrics are made. It is determined that the increase in the fabric tightness decreases the air permeability and increases the wicking ability especially in 60?min measurements. The fabric tightness has also different effects on different knitting types in terms of moisture management properties. It is observed that structures with float stitches show high wicking ability and moisture management properties in terms of plain, tuck and float stitches combinations.     

Investigation on permeability and moisture management properties of different denim fabrics after repeated laundering

The physiological comfort determined by air permeability and moisture management properties of fabrics is influenced by various constructional parameters of the fabric which give woven fabric a porous structure. Evaporation of sweat during wear has the potential to cool the body besides restricting the additional weight of sweat being absorbed by the fabric. In this study, comfort characteristics of denim fabrics with different weft yarn of cotton, polyester and core spun Lycra have been discussed. Effect of enzyme washing and repeated laundering on air permeability, moisture management and drying rate has also been discussed. It was observed that air permeability and water vapour permeability of unwashed denim fabrics with cotton weft yarn are significantly higher than the fabric with polyester and Lycra cotton weft yarns. The wetting time is higher for cotton and Lycra cotton yarn fabrics. One-way transport index is highest for Lycra cotton weft fabrics and lowest for fabrics with polyester weft. Fabrics with polyester weft yarns show highest spreading rate, spreading radius and drying rate due to better wicking and hydrophobic nature of polyester fibres.     

Thermophysiological comfort properties of selected knitted fabrics and design of T-shirts

Thermal comfort is one of the most important components of comfort which shows physiological, psychological, and physical harmony between human body and environment. The heat and moisture transfer capacity of fabric from skin to environment affects the thermal comfort of garments. The transfer capacity depends on the characteristic features of raw materials and fabric structural properties. In this study, it is aimed to determine the advantages of knitted fabric types, taking into account the environmental condition and activity level by measuring the thermal comfort properties such as air permeability, wicking, moisture management, thermal and water vapor resistances. Two knitted structures composed of tuck and float combinations and six raw materials were chosen for the fabrics produced. According to the measurement results, the polyester and cotton/Coolmax fabrics with float stitches have had good liquid moisture transport properties. Besides, high air permeability and low water vapor resistance have been obtained in viscose and Tencel LF fabrics with tuck stitches. On the basis of the results obtained in this investigation, and taking into consideration thermal behavior of human body, four women’s and five men’s T-shirts are designed. These T-shirt designs may be helpful for further approaches on the optimization of thermal comfort for sports activities in hot environment.     

羊毛与37.5涤纶混纺针织物的热湿舒适性研究

选择8种不同的羊毛与普通涤纶、37.5涤纶混纺针织物试样,测试试样的密度、面密度、未充满系数和厚度等基本参数,以及回潮率、透气率、芯吸高度、瞬间接触凉感(Q-max)及恒定加热条件下的干、湿态升温性能等织物的热湿舒适性能,分析和评价了针织物的基本参数对其热湿舒适性能的影响。试验结果显示,与普通涤纶相比,采用37.5涤纶有助于提高织物的回潮率、芯吸高度和Q-max;透气率随针织物未充满系数的增大而增大;当织物的纤维组成成分基本一致,组织结构相同时,针织物的面密度越大,透气性越差;含37.5涤纶的纬平针织物的瞬间接触凉感性能较好。     

Investigation on thermo-physiological and compression characteristics of weft-knitted 3D spacer fabrics

The thermo-physiological comfort and compression properties of knitted spacer fabrics have been evaluated by varying the different spacer fabric parameters. Air permeability and water vapor transmission of the fabrics were measured using the Textest FX-3300 air permeability tester and PERMETEST. Thermal behavior of fabrics was evaluated by (TCi) thermal conductivity analyzer and overall moisture management capacity was evaluated by moisture management tester. Spacer fabrics compression properties were also tested using KES-FB3. In the KES testing, the compression resilience, work of compression, linearity of compression, and other parameters were calculated from the pressure–thickness curves. Analysis of variance was performed using new statistical software named QC expert trylobite and Darwin in order to compare the influence of different fabric parameters on thermo-physiological and compression behavior of samples. This study established that the raw materials, type of spacer yarn, density, thickness, and tightness of surface layer have significant influence on both thermal conductivity and work of compression in spacer fabrics. The parameter which mainly influences the water vapor permeability of these fabrics is the property of raw material i.e. the wetting and wicking properties of fibers. The Pearson correlation between moisture capacity of the fabrics and water vapor permeability was found.     

A study on thermophysiological comfort properties of fabrics in relation to constituent fibre fineness and cross-sectional shapes

The present study reports the effect of linear densities and profiles of polyester fibres on the physiological properties of their fabrics. Four different polyester fibre finenesses along with microdenier and four cross-sectional shapes (circular, scalloped oval, tetrakelion and trilobal) were selected to produce two sets of 2/1 twill fabrics; one composed of 100% polyester and the other 67:33 P/V blends. In studying the thermophysiological component of the clothing comfort, heat, air and moisture transmission characteristics of the fabrics were assessed. The principal thermal properties, such as thermal absorptivity, thermal resistance and thermal conductivity, were experimentally evaluated, using the Alambeta instrument. The study of the obtained results established the fabrics of non-circular cross-sections as against circular ones, and increase in the linear density results in higher thermal resistance, lower thermal conductivity and lower thermal absorptivity. Wicking behaviour of fabrics was studied under two conditions–wicking from an infinite liquid reservoir (transverse wicking) and wicking from a finite liquid reservoir (single drop wicking into the fabrics). Increase in fibre linear density enhances transplaner wicking but slows down the spreading speed of water drops. Air permeability and moisture vapour permeability are found to be positively correlated with fibre decitex. The role of fibre cross-sectional shapes in influencing mass-flow characteristics is quite considerable. Use of non-circular polyester in place of a circular one augments the wickability of liquid water along with the permeability of air and moisture vapour through the fabrics, revealing their high porosity, which assists air and moisture to propagate. Mixing viscose into polyester brings down the air permeability and moisture vapour transmission rate (MVTR) of fabrics. Results show that moisture absorption of viscose is an important factor in influencing the moisture transport characteristics including both wickability and MVTR of 100% viscose and P/V-blended fabrics.     

Effect of Pique and Honeycomb Structures on Moisture Management Properties of Eri Silk Knitted Fabrics

ABSTRACT

The present study aims to investigate the moisture management and wicking properties of eri knitted fabrics. In this study, two different knit structures, namely, single pique and honeycomb fabric, were developed with the combinations of two different tightness values of slack and tight by using 2/80s Nm and 2/140s Nm eri silk yarns. The developed fabrics were analyzed for vertical wicking, moisture management properties such as wetting time, spreading speed, absorption rate, maximum wetting radius, accumulative one-way transport index (AOTI), and overall moisture management capacity (OMMC). Variables such as yarn linear density, tightness, and knitting structure have a significant influence on the wicking and moisture management properties. The overall OMMC indices of eri silk knitted fabric lie in the ‘very good’ to ‘excellent’ category, indicating the suitability of eri silk yarn for skin fit as well as active wear applications.     

结构参数对割圈绒织物热湿舒适性的影响

为研究纬编割圈绒织物的热湿舒适性,以吸湿快干型涤纶低弹网络丝为原料,试织了11种不同规格的割圈绒产品。采用实验方法考察了全毛长、底纱送纱量、底纱规格等参数对割圈绒织物热湿舒适性的影响。利用回归分析,得出各结构参数与透气量、芯吸高度、保温率等指标的关系。结果表明：全毛长、底纱送纱量、底纱规格等结构参数均影响割圈绒织物的热湿舒适性,其中全毛长是影响织物透气性、保温性的高度显著性因素。全毛长与透气量和克罗值分别呈负相关和正相关关系,底纱送纱量与透湿量呈正相关关系,其相关系数为0.9973。     

Thermal and mass transport properties of polyester–cotton plated fabrics in relation to back layer fibre profiles and face layer yarn types

Clothing plays an important role in maintaining thermal equilibrium between a human body and the ambient environment by serving as a medium for heat, moisture vapour and liquid moisture transfer. The ability of fabric to maintain this equilibrium is related to thermo-physiological comfort. Plating is an innovative knitted fabric production technique to obtain bi-layered fabrics. An attempt has been made to engineer plated knit structures with such a combination of fibre cross section in the back (inner/next to skin) and the yarn type in the face (outer) layer, so that a rapid liquid transfer from back layer by wicking and quick liquid absorption and evaporation by the face layer can be achieved. Plated fabrics using the combination of triangular polyester fibre in the back and carded cotton yarn in the face layer showed the higher thermal resistance, higher absorbent capacity and would be warmer to the initial touch. However, the combination of combed cotton yarn with triangular polyester fibre resulted in fabrics with the higher air permeability, moisture vapour transmission rate and transplanar wicking.