Stability Studies of Ozonized Sunflower Oil and Enriched Cosmetics with a Dedicated Peroxide Value Determination

Ozonized oils have interesting applications in the cosmetic industry and several patents on enriched products were developed in the last years. Ozonides are known for their high reactivity and stability data are required for enriched cosmetic products during storage. In this paper a dedicated determination of Peroxide Value (PV) was performed on ozonized sunflower oil (Neozone 4000) and on some enriched cosmetics, in order to control their stability during storage. The optimal conditions of the PV method were determined, following the decomposition reaction of ozonides with KI utilizing ¹H-NMR and GC/MS techniques.     

木本油料脂肪酸组成、提纯及其应用研究进展

木本油料是我国传统工业油料,应用领域广泛,可作为优质的食用植物油的来源,也可作为生产生物柴油的原料,并且还被用于饲料添加剂和化妆品行业。木本油料中C12~C18不饱和脂肪酸含量高,易被人体吸收,不同提取技术(压榨法、水酶法、超声波辅助法、浸出法等)对木本油料的脂肪酸组成及含量的影响较小。本文对橡胶籽油、核桃油、椰子油、山苍子核仁油、牡丹籽油、油茶籽油和棕榈油等7种木本油料的资源量、应用情况做了简单介绍,并综述了7种木本油料的脂肪酸组成及其提取纯化技术,重点介绍了木本油料中的中长碳链不饱和脂肪酸的提纯技术,并对提纯后的月桂酸、油酸、亚油酸、亚麻酸的应用进行了综述和展望。     

The role of fats and oils in cosmetics

The earliest emollients in the history of cosmetics were the naturally occurring animal fats and vegetable oils. These provided soothing and smoothing action on the skin and grooming effects on head and beard hair. For the most part, odor problems limited the interest in oils derived from fish. With the increasing sophistication of users and increasing understanding of the technology of these materials, the short-comings of natural fats and oils were overcome in several ways: (a) increased stability through use of antioxidants; (b) reduced odor through improved processing; (c) improved stability and diversification through chemical modification; (d) increased diversity through preparation of derivatives, and (e) substitution of mineral oil. Today the most important single cosmetic use of an unmodified natural fat or oil is that of castor oil as the base for lipsticks. Other unmodified oils have largely minor specialty uses, particularly in higher-priced cosmetics. These include almond oil, apricot kernel oil, sesame oil, safflower oil, wheat germ oil, avocado oil, turtle oil and mink oil. Cocoa butter is used to some extent in suntan products. Reconstituted fractionated coconut oil is widely used. Polyglycerol esters of fatty acids are increasing in importance. Hydrogenation has produced stable oils useful in cosmetics. Alkyl esters and monoglycerol esters of fatty acids offer a wider range of properties than the original oils. Improvements in the naturally occurring fats and oils have made it possible for them to compete in some characteristics, and current interest in “natural” cosmetics may turn the attention of the cosmetic chemist back to improved versions of the classical raw materials. One of five papers in the symposium “Fats and Oils in Cosmetics and Pharmaceuticals,” presented at the AOCS Meeting, Atlantic City, October 1971.     

Synthesis and Characterization of Corn Oil Polyhydroxy Fatty Acids Designed as Additive Agent for Many Applications

Before the advent of the modern food industry, vegetable oils (triglycerides) from many sources had a long history of use as condiments in cooking, personal care, and other therapeutic applications. Industrial applications of vegetable oils outside of food usage, on the other hand, have been limited on account of the shorter shelf-life durability of these oils resulting from the natural unsaturation (carbon–carbon double bonds) in the structure of most triglycerides. In seeking to explore expanded utilization of this renewable resource, we have eliminated the above weakness by chemically modifying the double bonds in the material in an attempt to stabilize the oil. We have used FT-IR and NMR spectroscopy to characterize the derivative whereas the physical and chemical properties of the product in terms of stability and flow characteristics have been investigated using differential scanning calorimetry (DSC), pressure DSC, rheometry and thermogravimetric analysis. In this modification of corn oil the data obtained indicate that the resulting poly-hydroxylated acids are more stable than the native corn oil. Additionally, the obtained properties are unique and such that this product will be amenable to use in cosmetics, pharmaceuticals, and other industrial uses especially as a lubricity enhancing additive in fuel applications.     

天然植物油脂在化妆品中的应用

叙述了油脂在化妆品中的功效性评价及天然植物油脂的市场现状,介绍了植物油脂的重要活性物ω-3和ω-6脂肪酸）的皮肤功效及天然植物油脂的重要来源。指出,以植物油脂为原料的天然化妆品将越来越受到消费者喜爱。     

Jatropha oil and karanja oil as carbon sources for production of sophorolipids

Biosurfactants like sophorolipids (SL) are mild and environmentally friendly surfactants to be used in cosmetics and health care products. In addition to surfactant properties, SL also possess antimicrobial and skin healing properties. SL are produced by microbial fermentation using refined vegetable oils with glucose as a carbon source. This affects the economics of the production of SL. In the present work, non‐traditional oils like jatropha oil, karanja oil, and neem oil were used as newer feedstock for fermentative production of SL using Starmerella bombicola (ATCC 22214). In the fermentation, jatropha oil and karanja oil gave 6.0 and 7.6 g/L of SL (mainly lactonic form), respectively. HPLC, liquid chromatography–mass spectrometer, and ¹H NMR of crude SL obtained from fermentation broth showed lactonic form of two major SL. Oleic acid and linoleic acid were preferentially consumed over other fatty acids by the organism. Neem oil gave lower yield, i.e., 2.63 g/L of SL (mainly acidic form). Practical applications: Jatropha oil and karanja oil are one of the non‐traditional oils grown wildly in India that have large potential that is still to be explored. These oils contain non‐glycerides components that exclude their use as edible oil. These oils can be used as substrate for SL that can find novel applications like in soil remediation, skin care production, antimicrobial agents, low foaming detergents, and food additives. The current study has provided proof of concept work that has indicated the potential of these oils to be used as substrate for SL. It has opened new avenues and there is further scope to improve the yield by validating the process parameters like aeration rate, residual substrate recycle and pH control.     

Potential of Unconventional Seed Oils and Fats from West African Trees: A Review of Fatty Acid Composition and Perspectives

Seed oils sourced from West Africa are generally not well-characterized, but likely to have an untapped potential. This review aims to make an overview of fatty acid (FA) composition of unconventional seed oils from semi-arid West African trees and evaluate potential for new and enhanced uses and for improving local livelihoods and biodiversity conservation. A total of 111 studies on FA composition were found, covering 31 species. Only 69 of the studies (62%) were included in the review, as 38% had unreliable or incomplete results. There was a clear link between taxonomic kinship and FA composition. Over 20 potentially interesting and underexploited oils were found, including oils with properties similar to palm oil, olive oil, coconut oil, shea butter, and cotton seed oil. About half of the oils have promising potential for cosmetics. One third of the oils were relatively saturated, indicating properties for structuring food and heat resistance. Most of the species had multiple uses and oil production could be profitable in co-production with other non-timber forest products. Furthermore, establishment of sustainable oil production and domestication of oil trees could promote biodiversity conservation. Enhanced oil production in semi-arid West Africa is promising, but several practical constraints remain to be overcome.     

高丝公司的经营之道

日本高丝公司是一家生产化妆品的公司,主要生产基础化妆品,如化妆水、洁面霜、护肤霜、香波和美容化妆品,如口红、粉饼、睫毛膏以及家用洗涤等。该公司不论基础研究、产品开发、生产管理、加工设备到检测手段等方面都值得我们学习和借鉴。折抓产品的质量首先要抓原料的品质,这一点应当引起我们足够的重视。     

自然界的美肤礼物--橄榄油

橄榄油不仅是最值得期待的营养油,也是独特的化妆品成分的来源。该成分可以用来制造一系列的以橄榄油为基础的化妆品。介绍了新的活性成分：润肤剂、牛油和石蜡、胶凝剂以及表面活性剂和乳化剂。它们的性质决定了它们可用于护肤品、护发品、个人护理和装饰性化妆品。     

Effects of probiotic bacteria and oils on fatty acid profiles of cultured cream

The aim of this study was to determine the effects of using various probiotic bacteria and plant oils in cultured cream on the fatty acid profiles including conjugated linoleic acids (CLA). L. acidophilus, B. bifidum, S. thermophilus and L. bulgaricus, P. thoenii (jensenii) P126, and P. jensenii B1264 and a mixed culture (blend of L. acidophilus, B. bifidum, S. thermophilus and L. bulgaricus) were used in the fermentation of cream samples at a level of 2%. Cream samples were fortified with sunflower oil, soybean oil and hazelnut oil at a level of 2%. Microbial counts and fatty acid profile analysis were performed. The microbial results demonstrated that fermented cream could be a superior product for the presence of probiotics. Even though the cream samples contained 52% milk fat, in the majority of the samples growth of probiotic bacteria was higher than 10⁶ cfu/g. Concentrations of short‐chain fatty acids such as butyric, caproic and capric acids in cultured cream samples differed depending on the cultures used, while long‐chain unsaturated fatty acids were significantly affected by the plant oil fortification. The highest CLA content was obtained in the sample produced with B. bifidum, containing 0.73 mg of CLA/g fat. The effect of different plant oils on CLA concentration was significant (p >0.05) for HO + YC, SFO + LBYC and SO + LBYC. Results of the study are important for the dairy industry since it is the first publication on fermented cream with improved functional properties. The development of functional cultured cream with plant oils and probiotic bacteria would provide an important alternative dairy product.     

Oily components in cosmetics from a European view

At about the turn of the century, the natural fatty acid triglycerides used as oily components in cosmetics were replaced by low-priced hydrocarbon oils of high purity. More recently the trend was reversed in Europe, and the hydrocarbon oils are being replaced by resynthesized triglycerides and liquid waxy esters derived from natural products. Apart from dermatological and toxicological safety aspects, the resynthesized triglycerides used are derived from natural fatty acids and may even be used as food additive constituents. These modern oily components are well suited for use in specialty applications and for solving problems in the formulation of cosmetics.     

Synthesis and Characterization of the Intrinsic Properties of Milkweed Polyhydroxy Fatty Acids

Seed oils consist mainly of triglycerides, that is, they comprise a unit of glycerol backbone esterified with three acyl groups (usually but not limited to C16–C18) which may be saturated or unsaturated with one or more olefinic functionalities per acyl group. Very rarely do seed oils contain additional functional groups, such as hydroxyls as in castor and lesquerella seeds. Milkweed seed oil follows the natural triglyceride patterns, but with a difference in being highly poly olefinic. This character allows for the introduction of different reactive groupings into the structure of the oil so as to be amenable to tailoring to a variety of uses. Synthesis of the milkweed polyhydroxy triglyceride (MWPHTG) from the polyoxirane triglyceride derivative of milkweed oil using in situ peroxy acid epoxidation of the oil was previously reported. Subsequent acidolysis of the epoxy derivative gave the MWPHTG. Here the polyhydroxy triglyceride was saponified for glycerol removal thus generating the polyhydroxy fatty acids of milkweed oil. Studies of the physical characteristics, flow and stability of the resulting hydroxylated fatty acids using FTIR, NMR, DSC, Rheometry and TGA indicate a stable material with unique properties that would be useful as additives in many applications such as pharmaceuticals.     

Western Australian sandalwood seed oil: new opportunities

Western Australian Sandalwood (Santalum spicatum R.Br.) is an economically important timber crop. Sandalwood seeds have been identified as a potential secondary source of income prior to harvesting the tree. Chemical and toxicological studies of the seed have found that the kernels contain nearly 50% of a drying oil. This oil is comprised mainly of unsaturated fatty acids. The presence of an unusual acetylenic fatty acid has been confirmed. The oil was found to cause no pathological abnormalities in mice but reduced fat deposition. Acetylenic fatty acids are known to inhibit eicosanoids and stimulate certain enzymes, even though dietary consumption is yet to be trialled. The oil has potential uses in cosmetic and external pharmaceutical applications. Vegetable oils used in pharmaceutical and cosmetic formulations require high oxidation stability and antioxidant activity and benefit from the presence of other compounds such as sterols and tocopherols. This article summarises the research conducted over a half a century on sandalwood seeds and considers suitable uses and the future research needed to commercialise this oil.     

Use of Essential Oils From Various Plants to Change the Fatty Acids Profiles of Lipids Obtained From Oleaginous Yeasts

We studied the ability of seven essential oils to alter the fatty acid composition of lipids produced by an oleaginous yeast Rhodosporidium toruloides. All of the essential oils, except thyme, significantly increased the stearic acid content of the lipids. The amount of essential oils in the media determined the fatty acid composition obtained. Subsequently, we studied the effect of the major monoterpenes present in these essential oils. When R. toruloides was grown on limonene, a major monoterpene in orange essential oil, the composition of lipid obtained was found to be quite similar to natural orange essential oil. This proved that limonene has a major role in the changes in fatty acid profiles of the lipids. The effect of orange essential oil on another oleaginous yeast, Cryptococcus curvatus, was also carried out. Although the effect of the essential oil on the fatty acid composition and biomass (cell mass) was similar for both these two yeasts, the reduction of the activity of some enzymes involved in the metabolic pathways was quite different. From these results, it can be concluded that the effect of essential oils differs with species and it is possible to produce lipids with alternate fatty acid profiles suitable for different applications and with good market value.     

Fatty Acid Estolides: A Review

Estolides are bio-based oils synthesized from fatty acids or from the reaction of fatty acids with vegetable oils. Estolides have many advantages as lubricant base oils, including excellent biodegradability and cold flow properties. Promising applications for estolides include bio-lubricant base oils and in cosmetics. In this review, the synthesis of estolides from fatty acids using four different types of catalysts, namely, mineral acids, solid acids, lipases, and ionic liquids, is summarized. The summary includes the yield of estolide obtained from varying synthetic conditions (time, temperature, catalyst). Also reviewed are studies comparing the physical properties of estolides synthesized from refined fatty acids against those synthesized from fatty acid mixtures obtained from vegetable oils such as coconut, castor, Physaria, etc. By varying the structure of the fatty acids, estolides with a wide range of pour point, cloud point, and viscosity are synthesized to meet a wide range of application requirements. Currently, estolide products are being commercialized for personal care and lubricant base oils for automotive, industrial, and marine applications. The application areas and the demand for estolides is expected to grow as the drive for switching from petroleum to bio-based products keeps growing.     

From coffee industry waste materials to skin‐friendly products with improved skin fat levels

Spent coffee grounds (SCG), which are the residue obtained from the treatment of coffee with hot water or steam, can be used for industrial applications, due to the high content in lipids. The cosmetic products might be a suitable application for these types of residues because the barrier properties of the stratum corneum (SC) are largely dependent on the intactness of the lipid lamellae that surrounds the corneocytes. The purpose of this work was to assess the feasibility of using the lipid fraction of SCG extracted with supercritical carbon dioxide in the development of new cosmetic formulations with improved skin lipids (sebum) and hydration. The use of spent coffee lipid extract in cosmetic industry seems to be a suitable approach to recycle the wastes from coffee industry. Emulsion containing 10% of the lipid fraction of SCG (SpentCofOil cream) presented promising characteristics in the improvement of sebum skin levels with a good acceptance by consumers when compared to an emulsion containing 10% w/w of green coffee oil (GreenCofOil cream) and a placebo without coffee oil (NoCofOil cream). Practical applications: In this work, the authors develop and characterize a cream containing 10% of the lipid fraction of SCG extracted with supercritical carbon dioxide with improved skin lipids (sebum) and hydration.     

Studies on Herbaceous Seed Oils XI

Seeds from eight species were analysed by standard procedures for oil and protein contents. The fatty acid composition of the oils was determined by GLC. Five species were found to contain oils above 20% and none of them is rich in protein. Some of the oils have a composition fairly similar to the oils at present in common use. Five seed oils are interesting in having more than 50% of saturated acids of the total fatty acids. T. involucrata seed seems to be a promising species because of its high oil and linoleic acid (61.7%) contents.     

Dietary fatty acids influence the growth and fatty acid composition of the yellow mealworm <Emphasis Type="Italic">Tenebrio molitor</Emphasis> (Coleoptera: Tenebrionidae)

Fat is the second most abundant component of the nutrient composition of the mealworm Tenebrio molitor (Coleoptera: Tenebrionidae) that represents also an interesting source of PUFA, especially n-6 and n-3 fatty acids, involved in prevention of cardiovascular diseases. This study investigated the possibility of modifying the fat content and the FA composition of yellow mealworms through feeding and how this would be influenced by developmental stages, pupal sex, and generation with the future aim of applying this coleopteran as a diet supplement for human health. Growth rate and cumulative mortality percentage on the different feeding substrates were also evaluated to select the optimal conditions for a mass-raising of this insect species. Despite the different fat content in the six different breeding substrates used, T. molitor larvae and pupae contained a constant fat percentage (>34% in larvae and >30% in pupae). A similar total fat content was found comparing larvae and male and female pupae of the second generation to those of the first generation. On the contrary, FA composition differed both in larvae and pupae reared on the different feeding substrates. However, the exemplars reared on the diets based on 100% bread and 100% oat flour showed SFA, PUFA percentages, and an n-6/n-3 ratio more suitable for human consumption; the diet based on beer yeast, wheat flour, and oat flour resulted in a contemporary diet that most satisfied the balance between a fat composition of high quality and favorable growth conditions.     

Extended Surfactants Including an Alkoxylated Central Part Intermediate Producing a Gradual Polarity Transition—A Review of the Properties Used in Applications Such as Enhanced Oil Recovery and Polar Oil Solubilization in Microemulsions

The research published in the past half century indicates that surfactant interfacial performance in producing low tension or high solubilization with polar oils is not generally attained with pure conventional species exhibiting well-defined polar and nonpolar parts. The improvement trends reached with surfactant mixtures as well as the introduction of additives like cosurfactants and linkers lead to the introduction of the so-called extended surfactants, whose structure includes an intermediate polarity spacer between the hydrophilic head and the lipophilic tail. Recent investigations on different kinds of surfactants in a variety of applications—such as detergency, cosmetics, enhanced oil recovery or crude demulsifying, and vegetable oil extraction—indicate that these extended surfactants are likely to be particularly performing with oils containing polar groups, such as triacylglycerols and asphaltenic crudes. Possible applications of extended surfactants in enhanced oil recovery, crude emulsion breaking, detergency and cleaning, medicine and cosmetics vehicles, and natural oil extraction as well as some other cases are quickly reviewed.     

Contents of Fatty Acids, Selected Lipids and Physicochemical Properties of Western Australian Sandalwood Seed Oil

The study was designed to characterise two extracts of Western Australian sandalwood (Santalum spicatum) seed oils for their physicochemical and lipid characteristics. Sandalwood plantation’s surplus seeds could be used for their oil content, to improve the commercial viability of this industry. The seed oils were obtained by solvent extraction and supercritical carbon dioxide extraction respectively. Important physicochemical parameters were compared with other oils commonly used in pharmaceutical and cosmetic products. Acid values were found to be higher (6.0–7.5 mg KOH/1 g oil) while peroxide values (6.7–9.0 mequiv/Kg) were lower than reported for other oils. Tocopherols were found to be lower than those usually reported for nut oils (α-tocopherol 1–3 mg/100 g; δ-tocopherol 2.2–5.7 mg/100 g), squalenes and phytosterols were found in considerable quantities. The fatty acid content consisted largely of ximenynic acid (35 %) and oleic acid (52 %). No oxidative derivatives of fatty acids were observed. Although there were statistically significant differences in some properties, the magnitude of these were insufficient to conclude there were any notable differences in the two oil extracts.