烟酰胺在皮肤美白产品中的应用研究

简述了烟酰胺的产品特性,通过对人体皮肤生物学及黑色素形成机理的分析,在试验的基础上,说明了烟酰胺对皮肤美白方面的独特作用及其作用机理,展现了其良好的应用前景。     

皮肤化学美白剂抑制酪氨酸酶活性的研究

采用化学评价法,即通过测定皮肤美白剂对酪氨酸酶的活性抑制率,对9类13种皮肤美白剂的活性进行了评价与比较,排出了抑制次序;穷乡僻壤 制了各美白剂浓度与其酪氨酸抑制率关系曲线;多数美白剂呈钟形曲线;得到了各美白剂的ICmax及IC50;探讨了酪氨酸酶抑制率与美白效果评价的关系。     

皮肤黑色素的形成及美白剂美白机理

皮肤是人体健康的第一道防线，也是容颜靓丽的第一体现者，拥有健康、白皙、富有弹性的的皮肤是所有人追求的目标。东方女性对白皙美丽的皮肤尊爱有加，我国女性历来崇尚“肤如雪、凝如脂”，白净细嫩的肌肤一直是东方人来衡量女性的重要标准，在我国民间就有“一白遮九丑”的说法。     

皮肤美白剂活性的化学评价研究

采用化学评价法 ,即通过测定皮肤美白剂对酪氨酸酶的活性抑制率 ,对目前常用的 6种皮肤美白剂的活性进行了评价 ,并与氢醌进行比较 ,得出 :( 1)各美白剂对酪氨酸酶活性的最高抑制率 ( 3 5h下 ) ,按由大到小次序排列如下 :氢醌 ( 98 3% ) >Biowhite( 90 5 % ) >Vc( 88 2 % )≥熊果苷 ( 87 8% )≥曲酸 ( 86 2 % ) >Vc磷酸酯钠 (自制 ,72 9% )≥Vc磷酸酯钠 (进口 ,72 7% ) >Vc磷酸酯镁 ( 41 1% )。探讨了美白剂活性评价与酪氨酸酶抑制率高低的关系。 ( 2 )得出各美白剂的ICmax( 3 5h下 )。 ( 3)得出美白剂作用时间与其酪氨酸酶抑制率关系曲线 ,该曲线表明 ,美白剂对酪氨酸酶的抑制率随其作用时间的增加而增加 ,时间过短将影响美白效果。采用自制酪氨酸酶体系进行评价 ,是一个行之有效的经济实用的方法     

皮肤的美白

综述了皮肤黑色素生成的生理生化过程,色素沉着的机理以及近年来对黑素细胞调控方面的研究进展,同时介绍了评价美白剂效果的方法和一些新型的美白剂,并提出了这一领域未来的研究方向。     

美白添加剂美白效果的评价研究

本研究了皮肤美白效果的研究模型及美白添加剂的效果研究，结果表明，Ａｐｍｇ，甘草（小于０．１０％）对皮肤的黑色素的合成具有抑制作用，色素细胞的淡色化程度，Ａｐｍｇ优于甘草；此研究模型的建立为今后美白产品的筛选打下基础。     

一款高效美白剂组合的研究

采用单因素试验的方法,通过测定市场常见的皮肤美白剂对酪氨酸酶活性的体外抑制率。结果表明：体外美白效果最好的为光甘草定,其次是AA2G,再次为熊果苷,它们的美白功效均优于具有美白功效的植物提取液。同时,通过正交设计实验得到一种高效的皮肤美白剂复配组合,复配组合的皮肤美白剂添加量分别为：光甘草定0.05%,AA2G1%,烟酰胺1%,芦荟粉0.3%。此复配组合对酪氨酸酶活性的抑制率高达98.97%。由此得到的一款美白乳液,pH值为6.6,通过稳定性实验,其结果符合QB/T2286—1997。     

植物精油在皮肤美白领域中的研究进展

简要介绍了传统皮肤美白剂的应用缺陷;重点综述了不同种类植物精油在皮肤美白领域的研究工作,包括体外酪氨酸酶抑制实验、黑色素细胞生长存活实验、黑色素生成实验及胞内酪氨酸酶活性测定实验;并从与熊果苷、曲酸的比较中分析了植物精油在皮肤美白领域中的应用潜力;最后提出了植物精油目前在皮肤美白领域研究中存在的问题、发展方向和应用前景等。     

皮肤黑色素形成机理的研究进展及皮肤美白剂的发展现状

黑色素形成机理的研究与美白化妆品的发展历来紧密相连,本文综述了皮肤黑色素的形成机理和主流化妆品美白剂的作用机理。同时,对现有国内市场的美白剂进行了调研及分析,并对美白剂的发展提供了新思路。     

皮肤美白剂进展

从黑色素形成的生理、生化过程的角度探讨了美白剂必须具备的功能和美白剂开发的理论依据。综述了主流及新近研究开发的美白剂的作用机理和功效，指出了值得关注的一些化合物，并提出全美白概念型美白剂、多酶抑制美白剂是以后研究开发的重要方向之一，同时对美白剂二次开发的目的和手段作了阐述。     

天然中草药美白祛斑化妆品

根据色斑的形成机理，采用相应的天然草本植物提取物淡化色斑。根据细胞内黑色素形成机理，选用适当抑制剂。减少黑色素的过量生成，防止皮肤表皮的继续黑化，提出美白与祛斑化妆品的合理配制方法。     

Quasi-Drugs Developed in Japan for the Prevention or Treatment of Hyperpigmentary Disorders

Excess production of melanin or its abnormal distribution, or both, can cause irregular hyperpigmentation of the skin, leading to melasma and age spots. To date, various quasi-drugs that prevent or improve hyperpigmentary disorders have been developed and officially approved by the Ministry of Health, Labor and Welfare of Japan. Many of these inhibit the activity of tyrosinase, an enzyme required for melanin synthesis, for example, by competitive or non-competitive inhibition of its catalytic activity, by inhibiting its maturation, or by accelerating its degradation. In this review, we categorize the quasi-drugs developed in Japan to prevent or treat hyperpigmentary disorders, or both, and discuss perspectives for future development.     

人体激素与色素沉着研究进展

本文简要论述人体激素分类、生理功能、作用机理以及与皮肤色素关系的研究进展。     

Role of the Ubiquitin Proteasome System in Regulating Skin Pigmentation

Pigmentation of the skin, hair and eyes is regulated by tyrosinase, the critical rate-limiting enzyme in melanin synthesis by melanocytes. Tyrosinase is degraded endogenously, at least in part, by the ubiquitin proteasome system (UPS). Several types of inherited hypopigmentary diseases, such as oculocutaneous albinism and Hermansky-Pudlak syndrome, involve the aberrant processing and/or trafficking of tyrosinase and its subsequent degradation which can occur due to the quality-control machinery. Studies on carbohydrate modifications have revealed that tyrosinase in the endoplasmic reticulum (ER) is proteolyzed via ER-associated protein degradation and that tyrosinase degradation can also occur following its complete maturation in the Golgi. Among intrinsic factors that regulate the UPS, fatty acids have been shown to modulate tyrosinase degradation in contrasting manners through increased or decreased amounts of ubiquitinated tyrosinase that leads to its accelerated or decelerated degradation by proteasomes.     

Melanin Transfer in the Epidermis: The Pursuit of Skin Pigmentation Control Mechanisms

The mechanisms by which the pigment melanin is transferred from melanocytes and processed within keratinocytes to achieve skin pigmentation remain ill-characterized. Nevertheless, several models have emerged in the past decades to explain the transfer process. Here, we review the proposed models for melanin transfer in the skin epidermis, the available evidence supporting each one, and the recent observations in favor of the exo/phagocytosis and shed vesicles models. In order to reconcile the transfer models, we propose that different mechanisms could co-exist to sustain skin pigmentation under different conditions. We also discuss the limited knowledge about melanin processing within keratinocytes. Finally, we pinpoint new questions that ought to be addressed to solve the long-lasting quest for the understanding of how basal skin pigmentation is controlled. This knowledge will allow the emergence of new strategies to treat pigmentary disorders that cause a significant socio-economic burden to patients and healthcare systems worldwide and could also have relevant cosmetic applications.     

美白配方

介绍了美白产品的主要成分,详细分析了一些美白专利配方和产品,提出了配方设计师应该注意的问题。     

一种新型安全有效的肤色均匀美白剂--ArlatoneTM DCA

讨论了皮肤黑素的形成及美白成分的美白机理,并以临床数据证实了有利凯玛公司全新的肤色均匀美白剂——十八烯二酸（Arlatone^TM DCA）的功效性。     

祛斑化妆品功效评价

从科学角度简要介绍了皮肤色斑的形成、祛斑化妆品作用原理,色斑长期以来一直是困扰人类皮肤的一大问题;并重点介绍了国内外祛斑化妆品产品的功效评价方法和进展,随着祛斑化妆品越来越广泛的应用,其功效评价方法受到了人们的广泛关注,评价方法包括照相法、皮肤荧光色素检测法、反射光谱测量法、三色分析法、漫反射光谱法和数字化成像定量技术等;同时展望了祛斑化妆品产品的未来发展趋势,为我国祛班美容事业的发展提供参考。     

Long‐term changes in Japanese women's facial skin color

It has been suggested that skin color changes not only with advancing age but also with the times. The purpose of this study was to investigate changes in Japanese women's facial skin color over 25 years, as well as the changes in skin pigmentation that affect skin color. First, skin color changes in terms of Munsell color values were investigated. A total of 3181 Japanese women residing in the greater Tokyo area were enrolled, and datasets were collected using spectrophotometers, designated as the 1991, 2001, 2005, and 2015 data. The mean Munsell hue, value, and chroma were calculated for each measurement year. Next, the concentrations of melanin and hemoglobin were calculated from spectral data, to investigate changes in skin pigmentations. Finally, Monte Carlo simulations were performed to verify that the suggested changes in skin pigmentations brought about skin color changes. As a result, skin color significantly changed toward high lightness, low saturation, and high yellowness from the 1991 data to the 2001 data. From the 2005 to 2015 data, the skin color distribution shifted toward lower saturation and increased redness. In addition, the concentration of hemoglobin decreased significantly from the 1991 data to the 2001 data, while the melanin concentration decreased significantly from the 2005 data to the 2015 data.