Influence of skin cleansing preparation acidity on skin surface properties

Two long-term trials were conducted each over eight weeks to compare the effect of the regular application of skin cleansing preparations of pH 5.5 and pH 8.5 and pH 5.5 and pH 7.0 respectively on the surface pH, roughness and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) of normal human forehead and forearm skin. Both trials were based on a cross-over design: five healthy volunteers started with a pH 5.5 preparation and switched to the other after four weeks, five additional volunteers used the preparations in the opposite order. While the skin surface pH was markedly lower in those individuals using the pH 5.5 preparation at each examination, as compared to those using the pH 8.5 or pH 7.0 preparation, no such difference could be established with respect to skin roughness and TEWL. Hence the skin irritancy of a cleansing preparation does not seem to be linked to its pH within the pH ranges tested.     

Location‐related differences in structure and function of the stratum corneum with special emphasis on those of the facial skin

Between the two different kinds of the skin covering the body, the glabrous skin is found only on the palmo‐plantar surface because of its rather simple function to protect the underlying living tissue with its remarkably thick stratum corneum (SC) from strong external force and friction. Thus, its barrier function is extremely poor. In contrast, the hair‐bearing skin covers almost all over the body surface regardless of the presence of long hair or vellus hair. In regard to its SC, many dermatologists and skin scientists think that it is too thin to show any site‐specific differences, because the SC is just present as an efficient barrier membrane to protect our body from desiccation as well as against the invasion by external injurious agents. However, there are remarkable regional differences not only in the living skin tissue but also even in such thin SC reflecting the function of each anatomical location. These differences in the SC have been mostly disclosed with the advent of non‐invasive biophysical instruments, particularly the one that enables us to measure transepidermal water loss (TEWL), the parameter of the SC barrier function, and the one that evaluates the hydration state of the skin surface, the parameter of the water‐holding capacity of the SC that brings about softness and smoothness to the skin surface. These in vivo instrumental measurements of the SC have disclosed the presence of remarkable differences in the functional properties of the SC particularly between the face and other portions of the body. The SC of the facial skin is thinner, being composed of smaller layers of corneocytes than that of the trunk and limbs. It shows unique functional characteristics to provide hydrated skin surface but relatively poor barrier function, which is similar to that observed in retinoid‐treated skin or to that of fresh scar or keloidal scars. Moreover, there even exist unexpected, site‐dependent differences in the SC of the facial skin such as the forehead, eyelid, cheek, nose and perioral regions, although each location occupies only a small area. Between these locations, the cheek shows the lowest TEWL in contrast to the perioral region that reveals the highest one. Moreover, these features are not static but change with age particularly between children and adults and maybe also between genders. Among various facial locations, the eyelid skin is distinct from others because its SC is associated with poor skin surface lipids and a thin SC cell layer composed of large corneocytes that brings about high surface hydration state but poor barrier function, whereas the vermillion borders of the lips that are covered by an exposed part of the oral mucosa exhibit remarkably poor barrier function and low hydration state. Future studies aiming at the establishment of the functional mapping in each facial region and in other body regions will shed light on more delicate site‐dependent differences, which will provide us important information in planning the strategy to start so called tailor‐made skin care for each location of the body.     

In vivo evaluation in man by two noninvasive methods of the stratum corneum barrier function after physical and chemical modifications

This study investigated the effect of different treatments on skin permeability, in vivo in man, by two noninvasive methods: transepidermal water loss (TEWL) determination measured with an evaporimeter, and Laser Doppler velocimetry (LDV) to measure the lag time before the vasodilatation induced by application of methyl and hexyl nicotinates.
Different treatments were performed on forearms of volunteers: 1. removal of the stratum corneum by stripping, 2. occlusion and hydration of the stratum corneum, 3. application of three surfactants in aqueous solution (Tween 60, sodium dodecyl sulphate and cetyl trimethylammonium bromide).
Increase in TEWL and decrease in lag time before the vasodilating effects of nicotinates measured with LDV after all treatments confirmed the modifications in skin permeability. The variations observed were more or less significant depending on the treatment, the investigative method, and the molecule used for the penetration study. With methyl (hydrophilic) nicotinate, the more TEWL increased, the more lag time decreased. A significant decrease in lag time after hexyl (lipophilic) nicotinate application was observed when there was a very high increase in TEWL. The lipophilic nature of the stratum corneum barrier was confirmed in vivo. Use of these two complementary methods, TEWL and LDV, allows the evaluation in vivo of the effect of different treatments on skin permeability in man.     

Cream or foam in pedal skin care: towards the ideal vehicle for urea used against dry skin

The aim of this study was to evaluate different urea‐containing cosmetic preparations designed for foot care regarding skin occlusion. The primary aim was therefore to screen the short‐term transepidermal water loss (TEWL) as a parameter for skin barrier function and skin occlusion and to characterize the relative role of the vehicle, i.e. cream or foam in the context of cosmetics containing urea in the 2–10% range addressing the cosmetic products urea 2% cream (GEHWOL FUSSKRAFT blau), petrolatum containing cream (GEHWOL med Schrundensalbe), urea 10% cream (GEHWOL med Lipidro‐Crème), urea 10% foam (Allpresan Fuss Schaum) and vaseline (positive control) compared with an untreated area on the volar forearms of volunteers. Moreover, the short time (24 h) kinetics regarding the moisturizing effect of cream and foam formulations in diabetic patients were compared. The efficacy of a cream on reduction of skin thickness of hyperkeratotic skin in the heel region before and after a period of product application was also evaluated. In some of the trials, healthy individuals and in others, diabetic patients (type I and II) were enrolled. TEWL was determined before product application, as well as at given points of time thereafter. In this study, no excessive occlusion effects comparable with a blockage of the skin’s natural water evaporation could be observed for any of the test products. To the extent to be expected, this was found neither for the cream products nor for the foam product. Slightly lowered TEWL values after application of the 10% urea cream can be interpreted as a beneficial effect in terms of an improved barrier function. Regarding skin moisture, the urea‐containing cream formulation appeared equal or slightly superior to the foam formulation. The thickness of the horny layer was found reduced after application of 10 % urea‐containing cream. At present it looks as if cream vehicles would still be vehicles of choice in general, when it comes to the formulation of skin care preparations for not only dry skin but also in the context of pedal skin care.     

Stratum corneum barrier integrity controls skin homeostasis

The stratum corneum water barrier controls structural and functional properties of both the epidermis and the dermis. Treatments which chronically disrupt the stratum corneum water barrier can induce changes similar to those seen with 'anti-aging' treatments such as (-Hydroxy acids (AHAs) and Retin Atrade mark. Barrier disruption via daily tape stripping increases epidermal and dermal thickness, superficial and integral skin firmness, and improves skin surface texture. Modest or transitory disruption did not produce such effects. Similar results were observed with topical application of AHAs, retinoids or mild irritants after about 4-6 weeks provided such treatments resulted in prolonged elevation in TEWL (trans-epidermal water loss). Treatments that did not chronically elevate TEWL could also produce positive cosmetic effects, but such effects were in general restricted to the skin surface or epidermis. Irritation, which was observed with some treatments, was not solely responsible for the positive effects observed.     

Effects of topical gluco-oligosaccharide and collagen tripeptide F in the treatment of sensitive atopic skin

Sensitive skin is a dermatological problem of increasing incidence in western countries and is sometimes associated with atopic condition and bacterial sovrainfection. The purpose of this study is to evaluate in a double blind, randomized, placebo controlled trial the efficacy of gluco-oligosaccharide and collagen tripeptide F in controlling the signs and symptoms of sensitive atopic skin. Forty female subjects (age, 30–59 years) affected by non-lesional atopic sensitive skin entered the study. Skin sensitivity was determined by a dermatologist on the basis of medical history, stinging test, dermatological examination and a questionnaire. A treatment with the test products (active and placebo) was carried out for 4 weeks. Measurements and clinical evaluation were carried out at baseline and at the end of the study. The following objective parameters investigated were bacterial count, skin pH and colour, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), stratum corneum hydration, skin roughness and mechanical properties. Clinical assessment included also a scoring system for dryness, desquamation, irritation, erythema and papules. Significant differences were found in the active treated group when compared with the placebo and in particular for instrumental parameters of roughness ( P  < 0.02), volume ( P  < 0.01), TEWL ( P  < 0.02), erythema ( P  < 0.0006) and clinical parameters of dryness, desquamation and irritation ( P  < 0.001). Moisturization levels and skin colour improved significantly in both the active and placebo groups. In conclusion, the study shows that the modulation of bacterial proliferation and normalization of skin barrier properties and stratum corneum moisturization can improve the symptoms of sensitive skin.     

Age‐related changes in skin barrier function – Quantitative evaluation of 150 female subjects

The protection against water loss and the prevention of substances and bacteria penetrating into the body rank as the most important functions of the skin. This so‐called ‘skin barrier function’ is the natural frontier between the inner organism and the environment, and is primarily formed by the epidermis. An impairment of the skin barrier function is often found in diseased and damaged skin. An influence of ageing on skin barrier function is widely accepted, but has not been conclusively evaluated yet. Therefore, the aim of this clinical study was to assess the potential influence of ageing on skin barrier function, including transepidermal water loss (TEWL), stratum corneum hydration, sebum content and pH value. One hundred and fifty healthy women aged 18–80, divided into five age groups with 30 subjects each, were evaluated in this study. TEWL, hydration level, sebum secretion and pH value of hydro‐lipid acid film were measured with worldwide acknowledged biophysical measuring methods at cheek, neck, décolleté, volar forearm and dorsum of hand. Whereas TEWL and stratum corneum hydration showed only very low correlation with subject's age, the sebum production decreased significantly with age, resulting in the lowest skin surface lipids levels measured in subjects older than 70 years. The highest skin surface pH was measured in subjects between 50 and 60 years, whereas the eldest age group had the lowest mean pH. The dorsum of the hand was the location with the highest TEWL and lowest stratum corneum hydration in all age groups. The results show that only some parameters related to skin barrier function are influenced by ageing. Whereas sebum production decreases significantly over lifetime and skin surface pH is significantly increased in menopausal woman, TEWL and stratum corneum hydration show only minor variations with ageing.     

Characterization of the barrier function in a reconstituted human epidermis cultivated in chemically defined medium

The aim of the study was to characterize and assess the maturation process of the barrier function in a reconstituted human epidermis (REp) cultivated in a chemically defined medium. For this purpose histo-morphological analysis, percutaneous absorption studies and non-invasive measurements were performed. In order to understand the time course of the barrier development, REp cultivated from the same pool of normal human keratinocytes were harvested and measured after several increasing periods of exposure at the air–liquid interface. From these results we concluded that a maturation period of at least 16 days at the air–liquid interface was required for an optimal barrier function development of REp. At this time point, the permeability of the skin cultures for caffeine (CAF) was 20–25-fold higher than that of normal human skin (NHS) biopsies. Non-invasive measurements of skin water content, transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and pH were achieved after the same period of time. Results showed that the stratum corneum (SC) of REp was slightly more hydrated than that of ex vivo and in vivo , human skin. TEWL was slightly higher through REp than through NHS, and the pH of the REp models was very close to that of in vivo , normal human skin. In the latter part, assuming that this type of model could be routinely used, we quantified over a 1-year period the barrier function variability of this skin culture model between batches. The satisfactory results obtained with a 20% coefficient of variation indicated that this REp model has a consistent and reproducible barrier function. This leads us to suggest that the skin model might be considered an alternative membrane to normal human skin for permeation screening tests.     

Evaluation of the efficacy of orange roughy (Hoplostetbus atlanticus) oil in subjects with dry skin

Moisturizers have beneficial effects in treating dry skin. The objective of this study was to evaluate the effect of orange roughy (Hoplostethus atlanticus) oil, a marine-derived wax ester, on skin dryness in comparison with a reference commercially available petrolatum-based moisturizer (Vaseline) and untreated control. Subjects (n = 24) with moderate to severe skin dryness at the lower limb of legs (Study 1) and with certain degree of skin dryness on the face and the forearms (n = 22, Study 2) were treated twice a day for 42 consecutive days with the test products in randomized clinical trials. Transepidermal water loss (TEWL) was measured at the beginning and the end of Study 1, whereas skin hydration was measured at the beginning, after 3 and 6 weeks of the application (the end of the study) in Study 2. Changes in the skin dryness were assessed by a dermatologist using a video microscopy. In Study 1, the dryness score of skin applied with orange roughy oil improved significantly (P < 0.01) in 6 weeks. The skin looked smooth with no or little dry scaly skin. Orange roughy oil was evaluated with a 60% efficacy in treating skin dryness by the expert, which comparable to that of petrolatum (68%). No significant change in TEWL was found either in orange roughy oil or petrolatum treatment, although the values showed a tendency to improve in both cases. Similarly, the results of the skin capacitance in Study 2 showed a significant improvement of the skin symptoms after 3 and 6 weeks. These results showed that the performance of orange roughy oil in treating skin dryness was comparable to that of petrolatum.     

New protein ingredients for skin detergency: native wheat protein–surfactant complexes

The cutaneous tolerability of detergent formulations can be improved by means of suitable additives. Exogenous proteins, for example, are able to reduce the skin irritation potential of surfactants according to a double mechanism: they complex the surfactant molecules lowering the concentration of their free monomeric species; they link to the skin keratin forming a protective colloidal layer that shields the denaturing attack of surfactants. Protein derivatives used as additives for detergency are usually prepared by partial hydrolysis of animal scleroproteins or plant reserve proteins. The main purpose of the hydrolytic cleavage is to make them water soluble and suitable for liquid products. Native, non hydrolysed wheat proteins have been recently introduced as active ingredients for detergents. Water solubility and stability are obtained by means of complexation with surfactants which also increases their actual hydrophobicity, an important parameter affecting cosmetic properties of proteins. The anti-irritant properties of these new derivatives of detergents have been evaluated by in vitro predictive tests (swelling response of collagen membranes), by acute irritancy in vivo methods (occlusive patch tests) and by use tests (forearm washing test). Transepidermal water loss and electric capacitance have been adopted as investigation techniques to evaluate the skin integrity/damage after the in vivo tests. The performance of native wheat protein-surfactant complexes has been compared with traditional protein hydrolysates and to amphoteric surfactants as detergent additives. The results show a noticeable reduction of skin irritation in surfactant formulations with addition of native wheat proteins.     

In vivo transepidermal water loss and skin surface hydration in assessment of moisturization and soap effects

Transepidermal water loss (TEWL), skin surface water loss (SSWL) and water content of the stratum corneum are utilized to assess the hydration effects of moisturizers and soaps. The relationship among these parameters may help differentiating hydration obtained via occlusion or by water-holding in the stratum corneum. Furthermore, skin function (hydration, dehydration, barrier damage) can be studied comparing the data obtained with these techniques. In this study, the effects of glycerol, petrolatum, soaps and commercial moisturizers on the skin are investigated and discussed.     

Assessment of the variation of skin barrier function with anatomic site,age, gender and ethnicity

The skin is the largest organ of the human body and its functions include protection, thermoregulation sensation and secretion. Significant advances in our understanding of how the morphology and physiology of the skin contribute to the skin’s barrier role have been achieved in recent years. The aim of this review is to summarize the principal approaches which have been used to assess variation in skin barrier function with anatomic site, age, gender, and ethnicity. The methods discussed include trans‐epidermal water loss (TEWL) measurement, assessment of corneocyte size, response to vasoactive compounds and attenuated total reflectance Fourier transform infrared (ATR‐FTIR) interrogation of skin. The utility of the various methods is considered and the most important findings in the literature to date are highlighted.