Evaluation of the anti-inflammatory activity of biolysat hafnia®, in vivo in man

'Biolysat Hafnia ®', an active principle, whose anti-inflammatory activity had been demonstrated in animals, also has anti-inflammatory properties in vivo in human volunteers as shown by the technique of migration chambers after suction blisters.
Évaluation de l'activité anti-inflammatoire du Biolysat Hafnia®, en vivo chez l'homme     

Elastin structure and its involvement in skin photoageing

Skin aging is a complex process that may be caused by factors that are intrinsic and extrinsic to the body. Ultraviolet (UV) radiation represents one of the main sources of skin damage over the years and characterizes a process known as photoaging. Among the changes that affect cutaneous tissue with age, the loss of elastic properties caused by changes in elastin production, increased degradation and/or processing produces a substantial impact on tissue esthetics and health. The occurrence of solar elastosis is one of the main markers of cutaneous photoaging and is characterized by disorganized and non‐functional deposition of elastic fibers. The occurrence of UV radiation‐induced alternative splicing of the elastin gene, which leads to inadequate synthesis of the proteins required for the correct assembly of elastic fibers, is a potential explanation for this phenomenon. Innovative studies have been fundamental for the elucidation of rarely explored photoaging mechanisms and have enabled the identification of effective therapeutic alternatives such as cosmetic products. This review addresses cutaneous photoaging and the changes that affect elastin in this process.     

甘蔗皮花色苷的提取及抗氧化能力研究

目的:对甘蔗皮花色苷的抗氧化活性进行研究。方法:采用4种体外实验模型对甘蔗皮花色苷清除有机自由基(DPPH·)、羟基自由基(·OH)、超阴氧离子自由基(O2-·)能力和抗脂质过氧化能力进行了实验研究,并与抗坏血酸进行比较。结果:甘蔗皮花色苷具有抗脂质过氧化能力,清除有机自由基、羟基自由基、超阴氧离子自由基能力。甘蔗皮花色苷抗脂质过氧化能力强于抗坏血酸;在清除超阴氧离子自由基能力方面不如抗坏血酸;在清除有机自由基、羟基自由基能力方面,低浓度时二者接近,高浓度时花色苷略强于抗坏血酸。结论:甘蔗皮花色苷作为具有抗氧化功能的天然色素,其应用前景广阔。     

Photoprotection in changing times – UV filter efficacy and safety,sensitization processes and regulatory aspects

As excessive sun exposure is tightly associated with different pathological changes of the skin, for example premature skin ageing or the development of skin cancer, an appropriate protection of the skin against UV radiation is of particular importance. Sun protection products and UV filter substances have evolved continuously in the past few decades. New developments and improved technical conditions of production have led to increasingly effective and efficient products with broadband protection ability. Accordingly, legal requirements have also changed and expanded. Although certain trends exist to harmonize the regulation of sunscreens at a global level, there are still large differences how UV absorbers are approved, which testing methods are prescribed, and which general requirements sun protection products must fulfil. Modern UV filters provide efficient protection against UVA and UVB radiation, are heat and photostable, user‐friendly, cost‐effective, water resistant and non‐toxic. As inorganic and organic UV filters are topically applied to the skin in relatively high concentrations (up to 25%), especially the assessment of their (photo)sensitization potential is of particular importance. Accordingly, skin sensitization is a key endpoint for the legally required safety assessment of cosmetic ingredients in Europe and many other countries. This review will summarize the current regulatory status of different approved UV filters, will describe their beneficial and adverse properties and will give an overview of how the efficacy of sunscreens can be evaluated. Finally, an insight into the basic mechanism of (photo)allergic reactions and existing skin sensitization test methods will be provided.