纺织品生态染色和染色新技术

本文从生态角度介绍和分析了近年来的一些染色新技术。着重介绍了节水染色，包括合理利用水，重复利用水，无水和非水染色；超临界CO2流体染色；短流程和一浴法染色，特别是一种染料或多种染料一浴法染近年来出现的新纤维混纺和交织物，还介绍了笔者研究开发的一些成果；小浴比，特别是超小浴比染色、低温、受控、低盐或无盐、深色和坚牢度染色、以及射线、超声波、低温等离子体、纳米材料和离子液体在染色中的应用可能性。     

One-bath dyeing of polyester/cotton with disperse and bis-3-carboxypyridinium-s-triazine reactive dyes. Part 1: Factors limiting production of heavy shades

Over the last 20 years, selected disperse dyes and bis-3-carboxypyridinium- s -triazine reactive dyes have been widely promoted for the exhaust dyeing of polyester/cotton blends in a one-bath-one-stage ('all-in') process under neutral conditions. However, despite the time and energy savings afforded by this elegant dyeing process, there is a belief in the dyeing industry that economical production is limited to pale and medium depths of shade. In this paper, the two dye classes (disperse dyes on polyester and bis-3-carboxypyridinium- s -triazine reactive dyes on cotton) have been investigated to understand why heavy depths of shade cannot readily be obtained economically using this process.     

Influence of liquor ratio and amount of dyestuff in producing ultradeep black dyeing using mercerised and cationised cotton

Cationised cotton allows the dyeing of cotton fabrics without salt and up to 100% anionic dye utilisation. The employment of cationised cotton in the dyeing of high depths of shades with reactive dyes holds marked potential for sustainable improvements through less dye consumption, decreased water usage, and zero salt utilisation, all while obtaining shade depths darker than possible with conventional reactive dyeings. This work builds upon previous work in obtaining ultradeep dyeings of cotton utilising cationised and mercerised cotton by investigating the effects of liquor ratio in dyeing and amount of dye applied. Surprisingly, for mercerised only cotton fabric, it was found that nearly equivalent depths of shade, as indicated by L*, were obtained, irrespective of the liquor ratio and the amount of CI Reactive Black 5 applied from 7% to 10% owf. However, the strengths of the dyeings, indicated by the K/S sum, show slight increases with increasing amounts of dye, but not when the liquor ratio is lowered. Similarly, for mercerised‐cationised cotton, the liquor ratio had a negligible effect on the depth of shade obtained, but increasing the amount of CI Reactive Black 5 resulted in an increase in shade depth and colour strength. Very deep shades with high colour strength were obtained with mercerised‐cationised cotton that were not obtainable with uncationised cotton, even at a very low liquor ratio and with a drastic increase in the amount of CI Reactive Black 5.     

活性染料及其真丝绸印染工艺探讨

研究了活性染料对丝绸进行染色和印花的工艺，提高了丝绸染色产品的色牢度、染深性、得色量和提升力。优选了酸浴法、中性浴法和碱浴法染色工艺条件以及印花工艺条件。指出一氟三嗪活性基优于一氯三嗪活性基，双活性基优于单活性基。国产活性染料应在溶解度、配套助剂、染料筛选等应用方面要加强研究。     

Dye distribution in the dyeing of mixed denier polyester fabrics

Microfibre polyester is sometimes blended with higher denier fibres to achieve good aesthetic effects at lower cost. Two polyester yarns of 1.4 and 0.7 denier were dyed singly and together with a range of depths of CI Disperse Blue 79, and the dye distribution over the course of the dyeings was examined. The uptake is initially greater on the microfibre, but as dyeing is continued the distribution becomes more even, and eventually the same concentration of dye is present on both fibres. Based on the common observation that a given concentration of dye produces a lighter shade on a microfibre, the redistribution of dye during the process causes a continuing shade change even though the bath exhaustion is constant. A mixture of three dyes produced a stable hue on a fabric of 1.0 denier polyester after 20 min at a fixed dyeing temperature, but when dyed on a fabric of 1.0 and 0.5 denier yarns, a change in hue continued for more than 60 min.     

The effect of liposome on dyeing mohair/wool blends

The aim of this study was to examine the use of liposome in the dyeing of wool and mohair fibres with acid dyestuffs. Soybean lecithin and cholesterol were used to form the liposome membrane utilised in the dyebath. Liposome production was performed according to the thin lipid layer method (Bangham Method) using a rotary evaporator. Two different forms of liposome were used for dyeing wool and mohair fibres. In its first form, liposome was utilised as an auxiliary agent, where it was added to a conventional dyebath at the beginning of the process. In its second form, dyes were encapsulated with liposome and then used in dyeing. The effects of these two different forms of liposome were compared with conventional dyeing. Dyeing was carried out at depths of shade of 0.5%, 1.0% and 2.0% using three different concentrations of liposome (0.33%, 0.66% and 1.33%). An analysis of K/S values, fastness to washing, and the alkali solubility of fibres was conducted. The fibre samples dyed in the presence of liposome exhibited very good fastness to light (grade 8). The wash fastness test results of the liposomal‐dyed samples were significantly better (grade 4‐5) than for those samples which were conventionally dyed. In the presence of liposome, the tensile strength of fibres was 20 gf, whereas it was 11 gf without liposomes.     

直接染料对甲壳胺纤维的染色性能

探讨了中性盐、温度、染料用量对甲壳胺纤维直接染料染色性能的影响，比较了脱脂棉和甲壳胺纤维的染色性能。实验结果表明：中性盐对染料的影响与染料的磺酸基的数目有关，对4～6个磺酸基，中性盐起促染作用．对双磺酸基，起缓染作用：而在70℃时染色的上染速度明显快于40℃，染料浓度在2％时几乎尽染，当上升到8％时上染率仍在70％以上；甲壳胺纤维的上染速度和上染率明显高于棉，其可染性、染色速度、表观染色深度远高于棉易产生染色不匀现象。     

Study of the dyeing properties of saffron and ultrafiltrated saffron powders,as colourants for natural and synthetic fibres

There is a noticeable growing interest in the use of natural dyes in contemporary textile dyeing, motivated by the requirements imposed, in favour of environmental prosperity. The use of natural dyes reduces significantly both the energy requirements and the environmental impact of the process. In the present work natural and synthetic fibres were dyed with the dyestuff isolated from Crocus sativus L., after aqueous extraction of the dried stigmas of the plant. Additionally, part of the powder was purified by using ultrafiltration technology. The saffron extract and the ultrafiltrated saffron retentate were used to dye cotton, wool, nylon and polyester, in various depths of shade and temperatures. Both saffron and ultrafiltrated saffron successfully dyed not only the natural substrates, but also the synthetic ones, while higher dyeing temperatures produced level dyeing with all substrates used. Ultrafiltrated saffron powder produced brighter and much stronger dyeing to the original saffron powder, due to the elimination of extraction by-products. Isothermal adsorptions for both colourants were performed on all substrates in order to investigate their adsorption mechanism. It was found that saffron and ultrafiltrated saffron follow a Freundlich-type adsorption isotherm on cotton, wool and nylon which is a typical mechanism for a planar-directed dye of big molecular weight. Nernst-type adsorption was found to occur on polyester which again is typical for the adsorption of disperse dyes on polyester. Thus, saffron can be claimed as a universal dye, able to successfully dye natural and synthetic substrates.     

One‐bath dyeing of polyester/cotton blends with disperse and bis‐3‐carboxypyridinium‐s‐triazine reactive dyes. Part 2: Application of substantive reactive dyes to cotton at 130 °C and neutral pH†

An earlier paper reported that the reactive dyes (not the disperse dyes) were responsible for the inability to achieve heavy depths of shade, when dyeing polyester/cotton blends by a one‐bath process at 130 °C and neutral pH using reactive dyes containing a 3‐carboxypyridinium‐s‐triazinyl group. It was shown that the poor colour yield of the bis‐3‐carboxypyridinium‐s‐triazine reactive dyes was because of their low exhaustion level at 130 °C and pH of 7.0–7.5. We now report the synthesis and evaluation of some bis‐3‐carboxypyridinium‐s‐triazine reactive dye structures, possessing highly substantive chromophores, as a means of obtaining high colour yield, on 100% unmercerised cotton, under the specified dyeing conditions. The technical performance of these dyes under such conditions was compared with that of selected Novacron (Cibacron) LS and Procion H‐E dyes, applied under their recommended (atmospheric) dyeing conditions.     

Differential dyeing of wool fabric with metal‐complex dyes after ultraviolet irradiation

Experiments were conducted to investigate the ultraviolet irradiation of wool fabric as a pretreatment for differential dyeing. Wool fabric was irradiated using a medium‐pressure mercury lamp in order to obtain, on the irradiated area, increased dye uptake under the same dyeing conditions as untreated wool. The chemical modification of the fibre surface as a result of ultraviolet irradiation was confirmed by an increase in metal ion absorption and hydrophilicity, in agreement with Fourier Transform‐infrared–attenuated total reflectance spectra, although scanning electron microscopy showed that the fibre morphology was unaffected. A selection of 1:1 metal‐complex dyes was used to show the maximum colour difference between irradiated and untreated areas of the fabric. The experiments focused on two effects: a double face with the same shade but different depths (greater depth on the treated side), and a double face with different shades. The latter effect was achieved by dyeing the irradiated fabrics with mixtures of acid and metal‐complex dyes. Rubbing and washing fastness evaluations at 50 °C confirmed that the dyeings after irradiation with the selected 1:1 metal‐complex dyes scored identically to conventional dyeings.     

Reuse of ash-tree (Fraxinus excelsior L.) bark as natural dyes for textile dyeing: process conditions and process stability

The aqueous extract of ash-tree bark ( Fraxinus excelsior L.) was chosen as a model to study the shade reproducibility of dyeing on wool. A meta-mordanting process using FeSO₄·7H₂O mordant was chosen as a system with particular potential for industrial application. The exhaust dyeing process with immediate use of the extracts as a dyebath and direct addition of FeSO₄·7H₂O stock solution as a meta-mordant process showed good shade reproducibility and satisfying levelness of the dyed material. An increase of Fe( ii )-mordant above a dyebath concentration of 2–3 g l⁻¹ did not result in further colour depth. Extraction of 1–2 g of bark was found sufficient to dye 1 g wool yarn to the darkest colour possible; use of higher amounts of bark did not yield substantially higher colour depth. The quality of bark and the extraction step were found to be of significant importance for the colour depth; thus, in an optimised process, conditions of extract formation have to be well controlled.     

Prediction of recipes for cotton cationisation and reactive dyeing to shade match conventionally dyed cotton

Cationisation allows cotton to be dyed with anionic dyestuffs (including anionic pigment dispersions) without the need for salt, and with decreased usage of dye, water, and energy. Appropriate cationisation levels play a part in dyeing properties such as fabric levelness, in fastness properties such as lightfastness, and in the overall cost of the cationisation treatment. The objective of this work is to assess whether it is possible simultaneously to predict a dye recipe and cationisation treatment level for cotton to yield a colourless or nearly colourless dyebath at the completion of the dyeing to match the shade of conventional fibre reactive dyeing of cotton. It has been shown that it is possible to model a cold pad batch cationisation process, relate the colour yield data and cationisation level for individual dyes, and finally predict a dyeing recipe and the required corresponding cationisation treatment to match the shade of conventional fibre reactive dyeing of cotton. The predicted dye recipe and cationisation amount yield colourless or nearly colourless dyebaths at the conclusion of the dyeing process.     

棉纤维化学改性与染色性能研究

棉纤维通过化学改性和交联作用，增加棉纤维与活性染料的反应能力，达到增深和提高染色牢度的目的。棉纤维染色中不仅需要进一步提高活性染料的固色率、改善其各项性能，而且要重视纤维活化改性和交联染色法的研究。     

甜菜红用于羊毛染色的研究

分析了甜菜红对羊毛的染色性能以及羊毛经二乙胺处理后染色性能的改善。实验结果表明,甜菜红色素不耐高温、对羊毛染色必须在60℃以下并在强酸性条件下进行;羊毛经乙二胺处理后上染率明显提高, 染色时间明显缩短。     

Determination of colour sensitivity of dye mixtures for disperse dyes

A method has been developed to quantify the colour sensitivity of a dye mixture. In this method, the concept of the colour sensitivity of matching recipes has been developed so that it covers variations, not only in dye concentrations, but also in dyeing parameters. Firstly, the 'individual colour sensitivity' of a dye mixture to a specific dyeing parameter was quantified by comparing the colour difference between the resulting shade from a normal dyeing condition and that produced by giving a change to the parameter. These resultant data were used to calculate the total colour sensitivity covering the factors, temperature, time and liquor ratio, with a model established based on CMC(2:1) equation. This calculated result simulates the reproducibility of a dye mixture in the dyeing application under certain accuracy of the dyeing process control. A set of dye recipes was applied by dyeing to verify the calculation with disperse dyes on polyester.     

Use of ultrasonic energy in reactive dyeing of cellulosic fabrics

The use of ultrasonic energy in dyeing cotton fabrics with monochlorotriazine and vinylsulphone reactive dyes has been studied spectrophotometrically. The dyeings carried out conventionally and by the use of ultrasonic techniques were compared in terms of percentage exhaustion, total amount of dye transferred to the washing bath after dyeing, fastness properties and colour values of the dyed materials. Overall results have shown that the use of ultrasound in reactive dyeing of cellulosic fabrics can result in energy savings, less water consumption, increased depth of colour and better process conditions.     

活性黑KN-B的日晒牢度与染色工艺关系的研究

本文对活性黑KN-B(C.I.Reactive　Black 5)染纯棉织物的染料浓度,固色率和染色后处理条件与日晒牢度的关系,以及三原色拼色时对日晒牢度的影响做了探讨,同时对涤/棉织物两浴法染色的活性黑KN-B与分散蓝HBGL对其日晒牢度的影响做了研究。结果表明:活性黑KN-B染纯棉织物,其日晒牢度随染料浓度和固色率的增加而提高,且固色率为70％以上时,日晒牢度大幅度提高。染色后处理,碱剂与皂煮对日晒牢度亦有一定的影响。使用活性黑KN-B,活性红M-3BE,活性黄M-3RE拼色对织物染色时,在KN-B的浓度为1％以下,其日晒牢度随浓度的增加而下降,在KN-B的浓度超过1％时其日晒牢度随浓度的增加而升高;日晒牢度随活性红M-3BE与活性黄M-3RE的浓度的增加而增大。采用分散/活性二浴法染涤/棉织物,其日晒牢度随KN-B浓度的增加,先降低后升高,在染料浓度大于1％时,日晒牢度几乎不在变化;但其日晒牢度随分散蓝HBGL的浓度的增加而增大。     

Application of rare earth as mordant for the dyeing of ramie fabrics with natural dyes

Selecting appropriate metallic compounds as mordants is essential for dyeing with natural dyes. This paper presents the application of rare earth compounds as mordant for the dyeing of ramie fabrics with four kinds of natural dyes. The influences of pre-mordanting, simultaneous mordanting, and post-mordanting on the dyeing effect were explored. The post-mordanting was proved to give rise to the highest dye uptake. The effects of dyeing conditions including dyeing temperature and time, dyeing bath pH and the concentration of rare earth on the dye uptake were investigated systematically. The fabrics dyed with natural dyes in presence of rare earth as mordant exhibited high color shade stability in the baths with pH varying from being acidic to neutral and alkaline. Employing rare earth as mordant apparently raised the color fastness to washing, rubbing and light of the ramie fabrics dyed with the natural extracts. In comparison with the commonly used metallic salts, using rare earth chlorides as mordants can greatly reduce the ionic concentration employed in natural dyeing. This study proved that rare earth would be a kind or promising environmentally friendly mordant in natural dyeing.     

超声波内环流气升式反应器处理印染废水

采用超声波内环流气升式反应器对某印染厂印染废水进行处理研究。考察了反应时间、臭氧流量、超声声强对印染废水的脱色率及COD去除率的影响。结果表明,随着反应时间的增加,脱色率和COD去除率均增大,最佳反应时间为30 min;脱色率及COD去除率随着臭氧流量的增加而增大,最佳流量为200L/h;超声声强最佳值为0.5 W/cm2,此时脱色率及COD去除率分别为74.8%、35.6%。实验证明,对印染废水的脱色率及COD去除率,超声波内环流气升式反应器处理效果大于超声与臭氧单独作用简单之和,脱色率和COD去除率分别提高了23.0%和6.5%。超声波内环流气升式反应器结合了超声波的声化学作用及内环流气升式反应器供气效率高的特点,发挥了超声波与内环流气升式反应器的协同效应。     

高级氧化技术在印染废水处理中应用的探讨

高级氧化技术是近年来备受人们关注的印染废水处理技术,本文分析了印染废水的基本特征,并就高级氧化技术中的超临界水氧化技术、湿式氧化技术、臭氧氧化技术、电化学氧化技术、Fenton氧化技术、超声波处理技术和光催化氧化技术在印染废水中的应用做了阐述,介绍了各技术的基本原理和应用中优缺点,为高级氧化技术在处理印染废水的实际应用提供了理论依据。